2016 Silverado -Sunroof and Sliding Back window wont work

[Chuck g]

I'm having same problem on 2017 GMC 1500 no power to sun roof rear window and phone charger checked all fuses all appear to be good lost at this point any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

[Rickthetechdude]

I have a 2016 2500hd...  Rear slider is dead, fuse is good. At the dealership now for warranty repair... Or it better be anyway. Didn't work first night home when we bought it 4 days ago..  I'll post what they do... I do also have the charging station but no sunroof.

[AE1M]

On 5/3/2019 at 5:35 AM, Dyoungster said:

Dr kadrock, sorry for the delay in response. Yes you have to go farther back on the harness and unplug to stop it from shorting to ground. Part number for the harness that needs to be replaced is 23124536 24800. Also the schematic document ID number that the tech used to identify the problem is #4232357. Hope this helps you.

I found this post searching for a similar problem,  I was upgrading the wireless module to the new one for newer iphones.  Wires pinch where they enter under the console lid near the hinge from opening and closing the top.  I need to replace that now,, where does the OTHER end plug into something.  I can repair the wires, too close to the hinge.

[AE1M]

On 10/18/2019 at 6:11 PM, Chuck g said:

I'm having same problem on 2017 GMC 1500 no power to sun roof rear window and phone charger checked all fuses all appear to be good lost at this point any suggestions would be greatly appreciated

Fuse #2 fuse box on passenger side front

[Dyoungster]

AE1M, I'm not exactly sure where the harness is plugged into, I  would think somewhere under the dash. When I had my issue I was still under warranty so the dealer did the actual work. I do know when they installed the new harness that they re-routed the harness not allow it to get pinched by arm rest lid. I would think you could repair the harness yourself if you feel comfortable soldering wire.

[AE1M]

I did that and it’s working now.  Since the break is near the hinge, there was not a lot of wire to work with, and if it falls behind I’d never get it.  I soldered and shrink-wrapped the connections.  I am looking at it and thinking of a modification to get it away from the hinge.  It is so odd that the sunroof and the sliding rear window ALSO have another fuse (green square slo-blo I think).  

 

The F2DL fuse must have popped while I was working with the frayed broken wires leading the to charger.  I replaced the charger with the new gm replacement part for the modern iPhones allowing with their adapter harness which connects to the original for the new pinout of the new module.

[tlaw91]

Too easy

Wireless charging pad harness open circuit, the center console lid breaks the harness open

Do them all the time, I fix them and route them differently I don’t charge the customer for a new one

-Friendly neighborhood GM tech


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[AkitaDad]

Technical service bulletin #pit5717. Harness chaffing at center console hinge

[DeWittEasy]

Any updates to this thread?  I have a '15 Denali Duramax and I'm seeing a similar sunroof not working problem.  The differences being; no cell phone charger, rear window still works, and the fuse isn't blowing.  It's done it several times and so far it's corrected itself after I turn the vehicle off leave it set for a while and come back.  When it's not working I can hear a slight 'click' when I'm actuating the switch but nothing happens.  Is there a relay/auto reset breaker in this circuit?

 

Thanks for any help... oh, it's currently stuck in vent position, expecting rain tomorrow and, yeah, it doesn't fit in the garage

[nova1265]

Hey Everyone,

 

Thanks to everyone contributing to this post. 

 

If you are having this problem it is likely that the hinge on the center console lid has damaged or sheared the wire harness to the wireless charger in the center console lid. I didn't want to replace the entire harness so I soldered the wires together and wrapped with electrical tape. I also then taped the damaged section into the metal hinge on the inside of the console lid bracket so it didn't damage my work. 

 

While I was at it I called up my local Chevy dealer and I replaced the single coil wireless charger with a retro triple coil kit that came with an adapter wire harness to allow new model phones to wireless charge. . It ran me $140 which is about the same that I found it online from 3rd parties.

 

If you are having this problem and you replace the wires and the rear slide/sunroof is still not working then Fuse #2 on the drivers side may or may not have blown either previously or while you were working on the wire. it is a 10A mini fuse that is labeled SEO RAP. Replace that and it should be golden.

 

 

[Chetski603]

I had the same problem, sunroof and sliding rear window were not working because fuses were instantly blowing.  I found two wires were shorting to each other in the harness for the phone charger in the center console. The constant flexing of the harness each time you open the console near the back hinge of the top of the console caused the insulation to wear away. This was in my 2016 Chevy 2500 High Country. I hope this helps anyone in search of a solution to this problem. 

[PCJohn]

Thank you to the guys contributing to this thread.

 

I have a 2017 Silverado LTZ. Tonight I experienced the same issue as many above. Sunroof open and would not close. Rear sliding window would not open. After reading this tread I headed right out to the garage, removed the inner lid cover to the glove box to expose the wireless charger. I then proceeded to follow the wires from the wireless charger and to my surprise I found two of the three wires running to the wireless charger were cut completely and shorting against each other. I isolated the wires, replaced the number 2 fuse on the left fuse panel and bingo. The problem is fixed. Unfortunately, this is a poor design because everyone you open and close the glove box it places stress on the wires. For now the wireless charger will remain disconnected as it never gets used. 
 

Thank you for posting all of the above information. It saved me a day at the dealer and maybe several hundreds of dollars. 
 

John. 

[Faulkenberry Ernie]

So I have been having the same issue.  Watched some videos on YouTube to find that the wiring harness in the center console that runs to the charging pad (that doesn’t work) is the problem.   I pulled the back off of the console and found the wires were all broken (images below). This is a serious design flaw 1) stiff wires finning through a hinge that is constantly opened and closed 2) the Harness is anchored close to the hinge.  We all know what happens when you hold a piece of wire and bend it back and forth. It breaks!  Duh!  This has other implications as I noticed my battery was weak and it eventually died suddenly in the larking lot. I suspect the power wire was grounding to the chassis.  For Now, I replaced the fuse #2 on the driver side panel, cut the wires flush, taped them individually so they do not touch each other or ground to the hinge. I will replace the harness if and when I replace the charging module with the new upgrade. 

[Bam2013]

At the hinge for center console the wires cut as they are too short. Remove the inside cover to console lid and check.
Hope this helps.