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Leveled several months ago.. just picked up the wheels last week.. not stock to my vehicle, but stock to a GMC Elevation (I believe that’s what he told me he had them on)..  (stamped factory UCAs at this point, not sure I need to replace them until I increase the size of the tires - currently 275/55r20)

1ca8eec9ab7ebcf87e5f84aca6d64b33.jpg

Edited by rbrjr1
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2018 GMC CC Z71 Standard Bed with a 2.25” front level spacers and replaced rear 1” with a 2” block. Stock wheels and stock size Michelin Defenders. Don’t recommend leveling with spacers! Horrible ride quality especially with E Rated AT Tires!!! [emoji22]

2942c792bdd78aa01c631815394cacc6.plist

Upgraded tires causing rubbing issues, swapped out stock wheels for 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Wheels, 285/60/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers (horrible tires). Truck rode very rough so after a few months I decided to go with the super high quality CST 4.5” Lift and Full CST Front and Rear Shocks

4832bf3a93447a6ae1f31cee7661515c.jpg

Now I’m lifted with the CST 4.5”-5” Lift, had second set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers on it 295/60/20 which slid badly at 15k miles, swapped to BFG KO2’s, fantastic tires and truck drives great!

19ae497c49db7515583b37b28e326758.plist


For those interested in leveling, I Highly recommend leveling with Coil Overs, tons better ride quality over spacers!





Sent from Above

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That’s what everyone says then they either get rid of their truck, return it to stock or do a real lift giving excellent suspension angles and stock like ride, stock like ride is due to E rated tires most people (I myself) end up having installed. I did the 2.25” level and added 275/60/20 AT’s and rubbed like crazy, had to get new wheels with different offset in order to push out the tire and not rub. If you can only afford a level then try sticking with P rated tires. Good luck!

 

 

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That’s what everyone says then they either get rid of their truck, return it to stock or do a real lift giving excellent suspension angles and stock like ride, stock like ride is due to E rated tires most people (I myself) end up having installed. I did the 2.25” level and added 275/60/20 AT’s and rubbed like crazy, had to get new wheels with different offset in order to push out the tire and not rub. If you can only afford a level then try sticking with P rated tires. Good luck!
 
 
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I don’t think that’s what everyone does but if you have that data, sure. I mentioned the 2” so there’s your problem...you went .25 too high. No rubbing with 285/65r18s on stock wheels. I have no ride quality issues but I also have good tires. I would never recommend P rated tires for anyone that leaves the payment.


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I don’t think that’s what everyone does but if you have that data, sure. I mentioned the 2” so there’s your problem...you went .25 too high. No rubbing with 285/65r18s on stock wheels. I have no ride quality issues but I also have good tires. I would never recommend P rated tires for anyone that leaves the payment.


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Yours are 18” but mine were 20’s and ANY truck with stamped steel upper control arms with 20” wheels WILL rub with just 275/60/20’s. Reason being, leveling changes your UCA’s and brings your wheel and tires closer to the UCA’s causing rubbing. Lots of people saying not true and later posting elsewhere “yeah, slight rubbing” but to each their own. Btw, Michelin Defenders are stronger than most AT tires on the market, designed to handle the extra torque from trucks, AT tires are much more versatile but even a C rated tires will have softer sidewalls than an E.

Just about every quality tire manufacturer makes C rated AT tires, just depends on the size and whether someone is willing to compromise for a smoother ride. I’ve always had E rated tires but that was my first and last time I’ll ever level a truck.

Ok, good luck to everyone and do lots of research before messing with your suspension angles, sometimes better to save a bit more and lift it the right way. [emoji6]


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45 minutes ago, ducklawyer said:


Rough country 2 inch. Rides great. I’ve never had any issues with RC leveling kits. I can’t imagine you will have issues with any spacer lift that is 2in or below.


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Thanks for the info.  I was thinking of going with RC.   Are there any major disadvantages using a bottom mount RC type kit vs. a top mount like Motofab?

 

On a related note, the current difference between my rear and front spacing on my stock '17 Sierra Z71 is about 3.5".  Is this typical?

Distance measured from the bottom of the wheel well to the ground is 39.5" in the rear and 36" in the front.  

Regardless, I'll likely still go with a 2" as I don't mind a slight rake and I often have the bed full of tools which will drop the back a bit anyway.

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10 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

2018 GMC CC Z71 Standard Bed with a 2.25” front level spacers and replaced rear 1” with a 2” block. Stock wheels and stock size Michelin Defenders. Don’t recommend leveling with spacers! Horrible ride quality especially with E Rated AT Tires!!! emoji22.png

2942c792bdd78aa01c631815394cacc6.plist

Upgraded tires causing rubbing issues, swapped out stock wheels for 20x9 +1 offset Fuel Wheels, 285/60/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers (horrible tires). Truck rode very rough so after a few months I decided to go with the super high quality CST 4.5” Lift and Full CST Front and Rear Shocks

4832bf3a93447a6ae1f31cee7661515c.jpg

Now I’m lifted with the CST 4.5”-5” Lift, had second set of Nitto Ridge Grapplers on it 295/60/20 which slid badly at 15k miles, swapped to BFG KO2’s, fantastic tires and truck drives great!

19ae497c49db7515583b37b28e326758.plist


For those interested in leveling, I Highly recommend leveling with Coil Overs, tons better ride quality over spacers!





Sent from Above

Maybe I am completely clueless, but I thought a strut spacer had zero effect on ride quality? You are not changing any spring rates. How does it change ride quality? Are you sure its not the change from p rated tires to 10-ply? Because a strut spacer is basically a body lift for all intents and purposes.

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Maybe I am completely clueless, but I thought a strut spacer had zero effect on ride quality? You are not changing any spring rates. How does it change ride quality? Are you sure its not the change from p rated tires to 10-ply? Because a strut spacer is basically a body lift for all intents and purposes.


It completely changes the geometry of your suspension


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A 2” level with the same tires and wheels will not feel different to 99% of the people. The other 1% of us will notice that the UCA hits the droop stop more often on bumps. That’s about the only difference, all else being equal. I know because I did it.


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A 2” level with the same tires and wheels will not feel different to 99% of the people. The other 1% of us will notice that the UCA hits the droop stop more often on bumps. That’s about the only difference, all else being equal. I know because I did it. 

 

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That’s your assumption, lots of people claim the same exact negative reaction after leveling with just a 2” level. My level was just 2.25” that’s 1/4 of an inch taller than a 2” and rode like crap. Both, your UCA’s, LCA’s and CV’s are different angles. My neighbors kid did the Bilstein 1 3/4” level and claimed it rode rougher. Ride changes anytime you change the angles of your suspension. I’m done, good luck to you all.

 

Here are just a few out of hundreds of complaints after leveling

 

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ef52e3360084439298227c2abcd464e7.jpg

 

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I did the Readylift 2.25 with the Readylift upper control arms, 1.5 Readylift add a leafs in the rear, I have the stock 20inch wheels with 275/60/20 Nitto Terragrapplers and it rides and drives better than stock, very happy with the results, I have no rubbing at all, those stock stamped upper control arms  are garbage. 

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20 hours ago, TXGREEK said:

 


It completely changes the geometry of your suspension


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I just did a 2.25" SuspensionMaxx kit today and literally zero ride change. I ground down the bumpstops and yes I can see where the UCA may bottom out and clunk at full droop over a set of rough railroad tracks maybe. Otherwise, the ride with the magnetic ride relocation brackets is the exact same as stock. :shrug:

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