If you only were going to be allowed one truck.....

j-ten-ner · March 13, 2018

4 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

May I ask what it is that you drive?

2013 Silverado 5.3 6 speed

so long

j-ten-ner

Grumpy Bear · March 13, 2018

2 hours ago, j-ten-ner said:

2013 Silverado 5.3 6 speed

so long

j-ten-ner

Can you tell me about the transmission cooling? Like does it have a thermostat like the K2XX models? Coolers?

Mine has the 190F thermostat then a cooler in the radiator and the small liquid/air unit on the top of the AC condenser. Looking at a first step of removing the thermostat from the loop.

Edited March 13, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

j-ten-ner · March 13, 2018

The truck is equipped with the max trailering package. That's all I know.

Maybe the thermostat is different.

But I should say that the trans temp can go up to 86*C (187F) when I'm towing and accelerate on an incline.

It's going down again fairly quickly once I've reached the speed.

Also, I'm trying to find the sweet spot that the engine is not running more than 4,000 rpm and the CC stays engaged.

When that means that I'm going uphill with 60km/h, so be it. I'd only gain a couple of minutes when going 80km/h. But I'd loose a lot.

so long

j-ten-ner

Grumpy Bear · March 13, 2018

5 minutes ago, j-ten-ner said:

The truck is equipped with the max trailering package. That's all I know.

Maybe the thermostat is different.

But I should say that the trans temp can go up to 86*C (187F) when I'm towing and accelerate on an incline.

It's going down again fairly quickly once I've reached the speed.

Also, I'm trying to find the sweet spot that the engine is not running more than 4,000 rpm and the CC stays engaged.

When that means that I'm going uphill with 60km/h, so be it. I'd only gain a couple of minutes when going 80km/h. But I'd loose a lot.

so long

j-ten-ner

May not have a thermostat like the 2500's pre 2014. Maybe someone else knows.

michigan2500hd · March 14, 2018

I'm not sure what year they stopped offering the light duty 2500 that I believe was a 7400 gvw yet still a 6 lug axle.
After some thought it would be a 1998 2500 ( light duty) ext. cab, 4x4. Easier to work on compared to more modern trucks, ride was decent and it was reliable and arguably one of the better looking GM trucks.
1. It would have a 3.73 14 bolt semi- floating rear axle. G80 of course.
2. Manual trans if it was still offered then , 5 speed.
3. Had a over drive trans so it could run highway speeds all day.
4. I had one similar to this work the dark green paint and Autumnwood color lower section. Had a beautiful tan interior fairly loaded. So that would be my first color combo. choice.
I would keep it fairly stock for reliability with regular synthetic fluid changes.
Undercoat it and even remove what's necessary to get to the rockers and coat them with something to prevent rust.
2nd choice would be a GMT 800 heavy duty diesel. Crew cab, short box.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Grumpy Bear · March 16, 2018

On ‎1‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 4:58 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

If you only were going to be allowed one truck.... for a life time. And I mean one truck was the sum total of all the motorized transportation you would ever be allowed; how would it effect the way you....

1.) Drive ?

2.) Approach maintenance ?

3.) Modify ?

4.) Choose your truck ?

No 'do overs'. You pick a truck when you 20 and have to make it last a lifetime.

A reminder of the threads intent. Please...carry on.

Grumpy Bear · May 12, 2018

Pepper passed the 62,137 mile mark. A metric milestone, 100,000 kilometers. When I was a youngster 60 K meant trading time as it was about he maximum number of miles a dealer was still willing to offer a reasonable trade to anyone. Today this is hardly broken in. My how things change; but which things? Lubricant formulations? Metallurgy? Dynamic driven Geometry considerations during design? Material selection? Improved quality standards/quality control?

Grumpy Bear · May 15, 2018

Draw a line from the upper ball joint through the lower ball joint to the ground. From the drivers perspective the X axis should intersect the contact patch at mid point. The Y axis just ahead of center. This the case as you steer through a corner the center of rotation about the steering knuckles intersect point on the ground will also be the center of rotation centered in the tires contact patch. Net effect is near zero contact patch scrub. That equates to the least drag and the longest tire life and greatest steering feed back. When you change the rim width for the same offset or change off set for the same rim width OR change the rolling radius of the tire you increase scrub, wear, drag and efficiency. Make a large enough change and no amount of alignment correction can keep the wheel from shuttering absent a change in A arm geometry. (moving a ball joint to correct the intersect).

Sadly the greatest concern of those who change tires/rims is "the look".

Likarok · May 15, 2018

Mine would be a 2007 Silverado 3/4 ton extra cab Duramax Classic.

Grumpy Bear · May 17, 2018

Stoichiometric oxidation of gasoline produces two products. Water and carbon dioxide. Okay, you knew that. Do you know what state the water is in as it leaves the combustion chamber? Do you know how much water is produced?

Let’s answer the second question first. 1.033 gallons of water are produced for every gallon of fuel. By water I mean chemically defined as water. Two parts hydrogen and one part oxygen. If I’m traveling 50 mph and burning two gallons of fuel per hour my mileage is 25 mpg and my H20 production is 2.07 gallons per hour. Sounds like a bunch.

This situation is the bread and butter for those who beat the drum of water in your oil/fuel in your oil. What they fail to tell you is that this H20 leaves the combustion chamber via the exhaust valve under cruise conditions at about 400 C or 752 F and in the pipe pressures of a few pounds. Under power and normally aspirated maybe 1200/1300 F. They fail to mention that water vapor at near atmospheric pressures at 752 F contains no moisture! In fact it is in the superheated state. A dry gas of disassociated elements of oxygen and nitrogen. They also fail to mention that under stoichiometric conditions there isn’t any residual hydrocarbons to contaminate anything.

Naturally stoichiometric conditions are not met fully always and some hydrocarbons are present, the result of incomplete combustion and some oxides of nitrogen are also produced under higher loads. This is most evident during warm up. This is when the risk of both types of contamination are most likely. Even a fully warmed motor at idle produces very low levels of either contaminate. It only takes about an hour above a bulk oil temperature of 160 F to drive off either or both to a trace/nil condition.

Oxides of nitrogen produce nitric acid and sulfur in oil and fuel combine with water produces sulfuric acid. Keeping water out is good indeed. Motor oils contain either magnesium or calcium (sometimes both) acid neutralizers for this condition but they do have their limits and lifetimes. Naturally the fewer warm up cycles and the longer the drive cycles per tank full the less free water and unburned hydrocarbons there are to gum up the wax works.

Oddly enough this also produces the highest average fuel economy numbers all other things equal. Light engine loads also limit any ring leakage to a fraction of the actual cylinder leak down percentages. Which again limits contamination and resultant acid formation.

Ergo high operational fuel efficiency is also a good hedge for oil and engine life. I drive like I drive not to save fuel cost but to enhance the useful life of my vehicles.

SarahsGMC · May 22, 2018

1978 K30 crew cab long bed with a 6.2 duramax

Grumpy Bear · May 26, 2018

On ‎1‎/‎30‎/‎2018 at 4:58 PM, Grumpy Bear said:

.... for a life time. And I mean one truck was the sum total of all the motorized transportation you would ever be allowed; how would it effect the way you....

1.) Drive ?

2.) Approach maintenance ?

3.) Modify ?

4.) Choose your truck ?

No 'do overs'. You pick a truck when you're 20 and have to make it last a lifetime.

Thread really does have a theme. Really!

SarahsGMC · May 29, 2018

that's nice

Grumpy Bear · May 30, 2018

5 hours ago, SarahsGMC said:

that's nice

Is it really?

Edited May 30, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

CadillacLuke24 · June 20, 2018

1: I would try to drive a little more conservatively. I'm not bad for the most part, but there are a fair share of full throttle launches and high speed corners coming on the interstate.

And though my brakes may not suggest it at 75,230 miles, I have a few THROW OUT THE ANCHOR stops. Avoid severe weather (I've heard hail and tornadoes are hell on the bodywork, not to mention getting sandblasted by the wind). When I'm out in snow, rain, or off road, slow and steady is the name of the game.

Don't follow anything too close, don't hug the centerline (I'm REALLY good at that), and don't trust blinkers.

2: Do as I do now: MAXIMUM OVERKILL! While I've scaled back in some areas, I still approach maintenance very aggressively. Oil, filter and tie rod greasing every 5k, tire rotation every 5k, air filters (both) and general body lubrication every 22.5k, and driveline fluids every 45k now (used to be 35k, but stuff wasn't looking or smelling used much, and 35k is even more than the 45k GM suggests for severe service).

Coolant every 2 years (actually going to do that next week), weatherstrip cleaning and lubrication every summer (ditto), and underbody flushing multiple times a year, in varying forms of thoroughness.

If something breaks, fix it and fix it now. Trim piece, service item, anything. If I let something slide that sets a dangerous precedent.

Edited June 20, 2018 by CadillacLuke24