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Leaking Shock cuz of Cranked TB’s?


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I recently noticed that my front passenger shock was leaking so I showed it to my dad who works at the local Chevy dealership. I went ahead and told him to just put me another factory shock on there since it was under warranty anyways. But after that I went looking at aftermarket shocks cuz I have cranked my torsion bars and sometimes I feel like my shocks or topping out (unless I am hitting a-arm with the bumpstop). No one had anything in stock and they all had to order something.

 

So then I called 4WheelParts Wholesale and told them my situation and they told me that the Rancho 5000’s or 9000’s would fit my truck with torsion bar lift. They are designed for my truck that have 0-2” of lift.

 

I am also fixing to install those green keys but everyone I talk to says that my ride will be worse than it is now but I am hoping that getting these longer Rancho shocks that my ride will be better.

 

So do y’all think the cranked TB’s had anything to do with my shock leaking and will getting longer shocks help? Should I look at another brand besides Rancho? Will adding the green keys help or hurt?

 

I’m afraid it is only a matter of time before the other shock starts leaking, my ride is rough but I can take it but I think longer shock would definitely help.

 

In about a year I will be adding 285’s so I would like to have all this resolved before then.

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Torsion bar lift doesn't change the travel of the shock (assuming that was the only suspension change) so it shouldn't cause any leaks. In any case, shocks for GM trucks are spec'd with suspension travel stops so they can't extend too far. And they won't compress any further than stock due to the torsion bar lift.

 

For rear lifts with spring blocks, longer travel shocks are usually recommended for anything over a couple of inches. They won't overcompress with this kind of lift though.

 

Problems can definitely happen on lowered suspensions with shock overcompression though.

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After reading a number of threads about the green keys vs cranking the existing torsion bolts, Iwent right to the green keys. THis was based on a claimed, better ride. After doing the install, I don't see how the keys are any differnet from cranking the stock bolts. The only benefit is that it gives you more room to add more that the 1.5 - 2" lift that the stock provide. My ride quality suffered, but I can live with it. Handing, I felt, improved. So unless you need to get more lift than the stock bolts provide, I would not bother switching to the keys.

 

I asked the sam question about replacing the shocks. Some felt they wouldn't make much differnence. I think it is entirely possible that the oem shock is "topping out", during rebound of a lage bump. I can't prove that this is happening and even if it was, it shouldnt occur during normal driving conditions. That being said, I am planning on going to the adjustable rancho 9000s. They should be better than OEM, take care of any shock travel issues, as well as offer adjustabilty between heavy loads and unloaded commuting.

 

If I was in the postition that I had to replace a bad shock, I would proably just go for all new aftermarkets.

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If GM designed the suspension right, it shouldn't matter what height the t-bars are cranked, the bumpstops do not move. They are the limiting factor of the stock suspension, IF GM put the correct length shock with the amount of travel the stock suspension has. All you do my cranking the TB's is decrease downtravel due to the arm being closer to the lower bumpstops, but increase the uptravel due to the arms being farther away from the upper bumpstop. The only problem with cranking them, you'll probably never get the full uptravel due to the increasing the preload on the bars. To make it short, you'll still have the same travel, which should allow you to keep the same shock after the crank. I replaced my stock shocks because they were leaking as well, before I cranked the bars. Much better ride after the new shocks were installed and the torsion bar crank. Chris

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