1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

[1SLOW1500]

So the alternator cable is a issue. On3 said they left it stock no wrap no relocation. But the manifold touches it. So I am rerouting cables. However each cable is keyed to only fit on the same number battery terminal. The starter cable is so long I can go past the turbo and back to the battery. The under engine(w/negative) is clearing by over a inch.
At this point I think the best answer is build a new alternator cable.
The waste gate with tube, for the life of me I simply couldn't see how it fit in. Called On3 and it was the simplest way. It is clocked at the 5-6 position and then the tube goes out by the outside of frame. I will get more pics when mounted.
Other pic is On3 wires. I burnt one and broke another so all those are coming off.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

No pic but Installed the ac heat sleeve. I t works and is good stuff but truck is looking so tin foil, It looks cheap. So ordered more sleeves. As far as the alternator wire, the new thought is running it over the turbo and back around. I will try this in the morning and if it works I will black wrap it. 

Ordered a HPS 3.5" humped silicone connector. I hope to get a little more flex in the intake tubes. As you can see in the pics the intake tube is tight and not aligned to the throttle body. 

Still undecided on the 3 gauge. Want it to match and be Oil pressure to turbo. Innovative makes a dual temp/press. Just need to make up my mind on alky/water. I can run E85 also( they make a data and fail safe gauge). 

 

[1SLOW1500]

Today I fixed the throttle alignment issues, It will work for now but new fitting is on the way. 

I got all the vacuum lines in and all the cold side clamped down. 

I will say I have a ton of work to do on the grill with the grinder for it to fit.

Battery and cables are 100% done, battery is smaller and was able to move much farther back. the black stretch tape is awesome. Alternator cable is 100% factory, just changed the way it is ran and wrapped it in high heat. It goes under the injector harness then turns high and far back to get to battery, it is foil wrapped and then black on top of that. I reran EVERY wire that runs on the passenger frame rail by the turbo. Over 1" gap and everything foil wrapped. Smaller AC line is bent under battery tray, cleaner look, more room and lets the cable get more room.  I also have the titanium blanket on the down tube, so it is super over kill but can't hurt.  

I cut about 1/4" off 3 of the fan support to give a gap between the intake tube and fan supports. 

 

******I lost the passenger front O2 harness plug*******

I know sounds stupid and is but I can't find it. It has to be there, I didn't cut it out and it is a part of the factory harness. But 2 of us looked and don't see it.

 

I will remove the passenger front tire and inner wheel trim. So we will find it. Have to to get to the waste gate and tube installed and it is a great fit but about impossible from the top or as one piece(mounted to the manifold).

 

Worst to come, oil pan drill/tap and the driver side header flange bolts. I have been spraying the bolts with Liquid Wench every day.  I will refill the coolant so I get back my catch container for oil. Still need to install the oil filter adapter, to get me the the oil feed. 

Promise good pictures tomorrow.........

[1SLOW1500]

Found it and rewarpped the O2. Moving on to exhaust and the oil pan tap.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

Best day yet. I didn't want to stop working. Pics of the waste gate and tube. And final mount of the turbo.
I hate the gutted look of the metal and exposed wheel well cover in the engine bay. So molded textured black abs plastic. Also I feel that will better protect the air filter. Will order it up tonight.
Catch can needed a vacuum source and when in boost the only place that has that is pre turbo. Then a 3/8 T to can and separator on valve cover.
Down to exhaust and oil tap.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Grumpy Bear]

Ever get that alignment thing sorted out? 

[1SLOW1500]

Ever get that alignment thing sorted out? 

No put one option is fully adjustable upper arm ball joints. I think it will effect caster and camber at the same time. So then they would need to go back to the cam plates and add camber.
Honestly I don't care about money so I will buy plates and these ball joints and there is no reason it can't be right. Over kill? Maybe but for the dollar it is worth it.
And pics of the full(temporary) exhaust..

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Grumpy Bear]

5 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Honestly I don't care about money so I will buy plates and these ball joints and there is no reason it can't be right. Over kill? Maybe but for the dollar it is worth it.

When it comes to suspension, tires and brakes lives depend on 'getting it right" so I'm an all in sort of guy in this area. 

 

I'm sure you will find the right combination to make it work. 

Edited October 27, 2017 by Grumpy Bear

[1SLOW1500]

Well guess it all couldn't go as planed. Ran into first issue the down tube hits the firewall. And I mean it runs straight into it. So I will need to modify it. This mean I may not be able to have the heat blanket. Which is a very nice piece.
Got the hps hump silicon coupler installed.
Cross over done all band clamps done.
All I need is exhaust and oil lines and I will start it up.


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

looks like this has been a issue and the kits going out are now cut to fix the issue. So I cut mine, however that adapter I spent $150 on pushes the down tube back so need to mod it some more. I can cut another 1/2" out of the pipe in the straight. Only issue with that is the pretty heat  blanket occupies that space will not fit as well. 

I have my 90* drill now for the oil pan. So tomorrow I hope to be done with oil and exhaust. Still need to grind on the grill and put the front back together. 

Pics are from On3 showing how they do it.  

[1SLOW1500]

Have a buddy coming over to help finish the truck up. Only need that one band clamp and oil drain tapped. I will then change oil and start it up.
Grill was a lot of work had to grind all but 1/16" of the black plastic out. But looks great I don't see the intercooler at all.
GOAL is tomorrow it runs.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

Denali grill waste pic. That is only about half of it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Black Denali Canada]

Badass


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

So it runs. But the down tube is all wrong. We cut it 4 times to miss the firewall but that lifts it up and that makes the nest piece that goes back to the cat back way off. So as I didn't like it that way I will be taking it to my buddies shop for stainless and tig.
Coolant is interesting. My truck stock seemed to have all air in the upper radiator hose. The new system is a one way setup so I wanted it as right as possible. And it wouldn't take coolant. We removed the upper small feed(highest point) and she burped and then sucked in a extra gallon. But still little air in the upper. Again thus system is sealed out only.
Truck is loud with a 15" exhaust and open waste gate. I am working on boost controller now as it is bypassing at idle.
We have pics and video later still working.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[1SLOW1500]

NOTE: My stupid ass as always bought the fancy gauges and as it turns out they are computer controlled and have firmware software update able.  Few issues with this is my computer, which I get a new laptop every year, doesn't have serial port and no CD drive. $500+ in gauges and they don't tell you that or add in the $10 cable. 

It doesn't matter for a day as I am deep into the HPtuners  now to remove my check engine light( rear O2's and such). Then when the turn drives under low boost I will get it to my fab guy and rap up down/tube and exhaust. Need this asap 

 

Can't get the video to upload. Working on it......