1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

[1SLOW1500]

I have no mods done yet to my trans or cooler. It’s pretty common for me to see 195-199*F. I’ve never seen 200*F. However, trans fluid is leaking from somewhere. It’s either where it connects to radiator or from the factory lines, so I’m going to be installing new lines to a remote cooler and bypassing the factory setup soon.

I’m thinking about adding the cooler just behind the front bumper and removing the plastic between my tow hooks for airflow. Basically, grinding out where the front license plate would go. There are two large holes in the bumper that would allow a fair amount of air in. Then it’s a matter of fabricating a trim piece to make it look decent in the front. Not sure if that’s an option for you or if flipping the fan is all that’s needed.

My intercooler pipes block that option a little. But I like what you said about modification to the plastic in between the tow hooks for air flow. The 2500 had that. I have been looking at that. I have faith in the cooler but need to flip it. Goal is max 180*

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[1SLOW1500]

Looking for factory brake wire. I preferred a under hood wire but I could go to the pedal switch or the factory trailer control plug in.

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[300 Blackout]

Looking at the pictures of your cooler, I’m wondering if you have air trapped in the cooler since the lines enter and exit out of the bottom. Perhaps that could also explain why it only took 12 quarts and your temps are so high.

I was always under the impression cooler lines had to enter and exit the top or the side. My understanding is that if they connect on the side, the discharge should be the higher port and the intake should be the lower port.

[1SLOW1500]

Looking at the pictures of your cooler, I’m wondering if you have air trapped in the cooler since the lines enter and exit out of the bottom. Perhaps that could also explain why it only took 12 quarts and your temps are so high.

I was always under the impression cooler lines had to enter and exit the top or the side. My understanding is that if they connect on the side, the discharge should be the higher port and the intake should be the lower port.

Not sure about that. The cooler company Derale states mount and way but there have been issues with people mounting them horizontally and close to a surface, like a bed floor.
Just did a test drive and FAILED, 200* on easy driving. Stopped truck in drive way and fan is going in less then a minute temp dropped under 180* and even lower because fan shut off. I think it is like GB said it will rely on fan but with road air fighting the fan blowing forward, it is a losing battle.
My plan was to rotate the cooler 90* so the in and out ports are on the driver side. Also to flip it over so fan is on top and pulling "road" air through it. Then I will cut the skid plate with a square hole and use the 4 side mounting holes on the cooler to hold the plastic to the cooler. This should focus any air near that area to the cooler only.
I have to rotate the cooler do to the lines clearing the k member anyways.
Also after you said this Blackout I will check on that and also that the thermostat is on the inlet port not the outlet. I will have to do it this weekend.

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[1SLOW1500]

Also new tuner development software. Jas me scratching my head. There is a factory launch control in the E92 computer. Say it changes injector pulse width and turns of voltage to o2 sensors.
Sounds like they don't want to wash the cylinders out with too much fuel and want the O2 not to command fuel changes. Only issue is tuning out the misfire code.
On the same topic fan controller. Stock has percentage and temp. Max at 221*.
On forums there is much talk of this and issues with stock thermostats. But they say some of the aftermarket brands are failing. I don't have issues yet so I may just change the percentage of fans over the temp settings to get little more sooner.
Stock thermostat is said to be 194* have to look into this.
Oh also the is a HOT trans table. Changes the trans tune if temp setting is reached.

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[300 Blackout]

I’m adding hydroboost to my truck and have been reading about cooler placement and orientation. This was an interesting read and it seems the principle would be the same for a trans cooler.

http://www.pscmotorsports.com/pdf/tech/cooler_mounting.pdf

[1SLOW1500]

It fits with my ON3 8an manifold fitting. Oh well I already bought a 8an hard 90*

Unsure what I will do with the emblem. Looks good but i don't like acting like it's a caddy.
Maybe a custom cnc billet emblem. And then paint it.

Oh and cover came with studs and is brand new. Not bad. In my option everyone should have one.

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[1SLOW1500]

#8, Cooler Feed (Fluid OUT to cooler) Top line at the transmission.
#9, Center Lube (Fluid RETURN from cooler) Bottom line at the transmission.

I checked a 6L80E GM service manual & a 6L80E ATSG manual, Same picture in both!

 

 

 

OK so think I have this figured out at the trans but for the cooler, Most people say feed line on bottom and return on top. Others say other way around. 

Camaro guys have a bigger cooler but rated less than my derale and report extremely cooler temps.

 

Man I ain't even bullshiting this thing cools cruising at 80mph 155 max,beat on it and it'll clinb to 180 ,but soon as you stop beating right back to 150-155,and cap the tank off on the radiator,Cooling solo from the cooler,45,000GVW And 40,000 BTU.It's a MAN Cuz!Just want people that need one to know of it's ability!

 

I see lots of talk of the lock up. and going through the tune so i will look at that next. 

[1SLOW1500]

Ok here we go. It was way more work then I planned for but came out good. I switched the feed/in to cooler to the lower port. This means I had to swap the lines at the trans also. Much cleaner look and I question how much air is available under the front of the truck there must be some good air. Or at least at speed. Thoughts of cutting the air dam on the bumper or building a air scoop for it.
Also got my AC recharged and at first day didn't seem like much if any different. But today ice cooled. My seat coolers are ice cooled.
I have got some trans tune files emailed to me from people in the industry so this week I will be tuning. Adding in the factory launch control. And setting shift and demand tables.

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[1SLOW1500]

Well my fabricator buddy said he can make a scoop out of aluminum that bolts to the 4 stainless bolts on the side. But he said it may not help it. Unless the front of the scoop is large and catches air, meaning the air dam would need to be trimmed up. Also said in winter it can scoop up snow.
So the better option is a small air dam on the cooler itself. Maybe like a 4" maybe more. It works for the pro charger intercooler that sit horizontally.

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[1SLOW1500]

Almost ready to get the oil system done finally. And the rubber air dam for the trans cool is here. Nothing fancy aluminum angle that bolts to cooler and the air dam. I have cut this to 6" by 12".
Worst case and I really dont want to do this. I have two options.
1- run out of the derale cooler and into the factory condenser
2- try cool LONG trans cooler, this unit is about size of grill, no fan stack and plate. After the derale jammed between the huge intercooler and condenser. Dont believe it will see much air and worry how that effects condenser and radiator. But surface space can't be beat.
Circle D runs 2 coolers on there test Camaro.

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[Grumpy Bear]

AND? 

[1SLOW1500]

AND? 

Still haven't go the air dam on. But did a few more miles it hold around 165* as long as your moving. Stop at a long traffic light it climbs just into the 170 mark. The fan rarely turns on but when it does only runs for less then a minute. Don't really know it it is working or just moving enough fluid that cooler fuild makes it to the cooler sensor.
No matter what I will take anything under 200. Haven't really got on it super hard. Still data and test mode. May try the stocks settings just to see if it runs cooler.
I will work on air dam this weekend and if weather I is good also the oil system with sensors.

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[Grumpy Bear]

That is better progress that you think. Pump volume is tied to engine speed is it not? At idle the pump isn't spinning very fast and things heat up easy. Not under any real load at that point, eh? What like 12 hp.?  Down the road at multiples of that is matters a good deal more, right? If you want the fan on longer you need to move the temp probe to the pan. The fact that it cycles tells you it's large enough and working to design but like you said it's cycling on cooler output instead of pan temperature. Then again you didn't build it to idle, am I right? 

[1SLOW1500]

Yeah I have been trying to wrap my mind around it for days. The pump is ran of engine speed. This is why after flush or fill, we let truck run at idle in neutral to cycle the fluid through.
Not sure why it hasn't came to my mind yet the idea of moving the fan sensor. It is located on the input/ lower line to the cooler. So sees warmer temps then the out. But question is pan fluid warmer. And if moved there is the fan going to just be on close to all the time. Then how does all this work in winter? My quess is it will still warm up good, but what drop in temp?
I want it as dialed in and reasonable as possible before I beat on it.
Maybe a interesting test to just jump the connection at the sensor so fan is always on. Just for a test to see the real cooling ability of that cooler with air flow.
You are right built it to cool under load and hard driving, but also planned to have it fan cool anytime temp is over 180. Even not running and key out of truck. And it is wired that way but without the pump running it just cools the small amount 26oz of fluid in the cooler.

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