1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500 · April 28, 2019

So as some know I blew up the trans. It was having a hard time holding power anyways. This is why all my slip and line pressure was set so high.
First I got a great deal on my tci two piece billet stall, it is a triple disc. It's a lower stall then the 3000 I was going to get but after running the numbers I think it may be better for me in daily driving and towing. Also the turbo is spooling at 2800.
For trans I ordered the Circle D stage 3. It is rated at 800rwhp but that is conservative as there are guys pushing 1000+hp. My weight is the only negative factor. So the billet upgrade on the stage 3 with take care of that.
A 6l90e would be another good upgrade but it has 2 overdrive gears and is a little longer. Also need major software change to work. I can do that myself with tuner but still not a plug and play.
Note: biggest issue all the leading trans shops said was the tuning will make or break even a built trans. And trans coolant temp. They want a 2nd cooler in there or temps under 180*.
Circle D gets my trans and inspects it, also my build info and copy of trans tune. They review it and recommend change if needed.
I will wait till it is done and then add a better drive shaft. So I can then play with launch control settings.

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mikedeezxxx · April 28, 2019

Would a 4L80e work in your truck? Those are pretty solid transmissions from GM. I know the Trailblazer SS guys with turbos and super chargers swear by them. I just don’t know if they can be compatible with your truck. There are company’s that make conversion kits, with plug and play harnesses.

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1SLOW1500 · April 28, 2019

Would a 4L80e work in your truck? Those are pretty solid transmissions from GM. I know the Trailblazer SS guys with turbos and super chargers swear by them. I just don’t know if they can be compatible with your truck. There are company’s that make conversion kits, with plug and play harnesses.

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That is a good trans but rather have a 6 speed. They make 1200hp 6speeds but they are $$$$. At that point of a 4 speed I like a th400 or other well proven performance trans.
The 6l90e isn't much work it bolts in other then cross member and shorter drive shaft. And then tune. But then the cost you need to buy one then build it. The output shaft is much larger.
So 6l80e build is better then stock 6l90 but built 6l90is best but most expensive and hardest to do. So have to pick what you need, then cry as you give them your credit card number.
I'm sure I could get away with a stage 2 500rwhp trans for now as the truck made a max of 612rwhp. And keep the trans tune soft and watch temps. Or stage3 800rwhp add the billet output shaft and carrier and launch that 6000lb truck at 3000rpms.

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300 Blackout · April 29, 2019

What part(s) failed in the trans?

1SLOW1500 · April 29, 2019

What part(s) failed in the trans?

Not sure yet I would guess clutches and like to look at the conditions of the splines.
I not cutting open the stock converter but I would bet that is very worn out. As gm has replaced those in 100% stock trucks.
Circle D will let me know. Tune and temp is their company posted warnings to all. So much so I would guess that is the key words to void a warranty. I dont worry about my tune but they can look at it and temp must stay under 180*. So if i have to add a cooler like they say is a must on camaros and track cars then that is cheap compared to $8,000 trans work.

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1SLOW1500 · May 2, 2019

Trans is on a truck going to Texas. By next week I will know the issue and pick the upgrades. So on to ordering more goodies.
TCI sfi flywheel and arp bolts. Still need arp assembly lube and trans oil.
Working on a killer driveshaft, that isn't steal but still smaller diameter.

So the $10,000 question....can a 6000lb+ truck with over 600rwhp on a 2 step launch at 3000rpm from a dead stop. Or does it break parts and if so what?

I never set the launch control in my tune but it's there.

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1SLOW1500 · May 2, 2019

Oh jackpot. Shopping on Amazon and I wanted to see what 6L80 pans they had. Then there is the Moroso aluminium deep pan, for under $100 shipped with my prime. I think it was a typo on their end but oh well mine now. Says it has a drain and a billet one piece mounting surface also stainless bolts. Also ordered my ULTRA LUBE 10oz.

Now the hard part what trans fluid?????

Grumpy Bear · May 3, 2019

14 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Oh jackpot. Shopping on Amazon and I wanted to see what 6L80 pans they had. Then there is the Moroso aluminium deep pan, for under $100 shipped with my prime. I think it was a typo on their end but oh well mine now. Says it has a drain and a billet one piece mounting surface also stainless bolts. Also ordered my ULTRA LUBE 10oz.

Now the hard part what trans fluid?????

Red Line D6 if I may b so bold.

Love the post at the top of the page with the converter photo. I got a smile out of Circle D's wish for 180 F or lower trans temps. If I'm crazy I'm also in great company.

1SLOW1500 · May 5, 2019

Yeah that 180* is haunting me. So bought this. Less then $100 shipped from Amazon prime. Pan holds more and has 2 ports for drain or sensors. The middle one is not a drain it is to flush and fill trans.
And got my bottle of lube. For my ARP PRO bolts.

Oh and holy hell is trans fluid expensive.

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Grumpy Bear · May 6, 2019

3 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Oh and holy hell is trans fluid expensive.

And yet I change it like a mother changes her kids diapers.

1SLOW1500 · May 6, 2019

10 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

And yet I change it like a mother changes her kids diapers.

I can't pick one I like but price is $90 to $400. And it say 12 quarts but that is a full service so I believe that is the stall and the trans full. Then I have a larger pan so maybe 13quarts.

Gm or mobile 1 are the most common..... Choice.

CamGTP · May 6, 2019

Good ole Valvoline Full syn Dex 6 or the Amsoil ATF in the blue label get my vote.

Valvoline is like $9-10 per quart not on sale and Amsoil is $11-13 per quart, at least at Napa it is.

Exsertions · May 7, 2019

On 10/21/2017 at 6:55 PM, 1SLOW1500 said:

Ok not much today. More money spent. When you think you have everything and then see you need to spend another $300. Lots more temp wrap tape and sleeve, more 1/4 hose, tap, drill bit, wire, grease, anti seize(O2's) and some cool black Miracle tape. Tape is rated at 500*F, you stretch it and it self heals to itself and cures. The other foil tape and sleeve is rated at 400*F direct and and 2000*F radiant heat. I'm sure I am going over kill on this but what the hell easier than removing the turbo and redoing it all, worst if it destroys something!

So tomorrow I will redo a lot of the factory wiring. Starting with the huge power wires. Just temp wrap and relocate. I also need to rewire that MAF extension I made. and clean that up. run the new vacuum lines

Tap oil pan then drain oil and install the oil filter adapter for the feed line. Worst part is the driver side manifold flange, air gun can't get it off. I will spray liquid wrench on it and let it sit then torch it and try my biggest Snap-on air gun. If all that doesn't work remove the whole driver side and work on it out of truck. but then a new header gasket form the dealer is needed.

The plastic under engine guard need the far sides of the front, by the bolt holes that mount it cut out. I will post pic but the amount of Grill that needs to be cut away is crazy. I mean it is like 1/2" of plastic you never see but that amount over a large part of the whole gill. I have 80 grit roll lock on a 90* snap-on grinder but it still is a slow job.

More pics tomorrow...

First of all i wanted to thank you for taking your time and giving us updates on your build. So i recently tackled this build and finally finished and need to get my tune next week. I only have 1 concern i have a 76mm turbo installed and when i start it cold the turbo is spinning "of course" but when it gets warmed up and on idle the turbo does not spin anymore. it spins if i slowly rev to about 2k rpms but i thought the turbo was supposed to be spinning even at idle. That makes me believe something is not right. any ideas ? thanks in advance. Keep up the hard work

1SLOW1500 · May 9, 2019

First of all i wanted to thank you for taking your time and giving us updates on your build. So i recently tackled this build and finally finished and need to get my tune next week. I only have 1 concern i have a 76mm turbo installed and when i start it cold the turbo is spinning "of course" but when it gets warmed up and on idle the turbo does not spin anymore. it spins if i slowly rev to about 2k rpms but i thought the turbo was supposed to be spinning even at idle. That makes me believe something is not right. any ideas ? thanks in advance. Keep up the hard work

So cant make boost? If so check the wastegate and the fire ring. If you have a HPT I can send you free file for tune.

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