1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500 · March 4, 2019

47 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Top line is the pump output. Factory transmission thermal bypass (thermostat) is a zero bypass valve. Under 192F-ish the pump output is routed directly and fully to the return line via a thermostat body internal passage.

Disconnecting the lines it will trick you into believing the lower line is the pump output.

Install one of these (photo) and that the mystery will be solved. 6AN fittings. Same as the Improved Racing 10% bypass thermostats and many coolers. Available in several temp settings starting at 145 F then 165 F and a few more. These two interested me.

Remove the belly pan and hand trace that upper line hand over hand. My V6 inters the passenger side radiator cold tank from the bottom and exits the top. I'm told that the 5.3 routes the transmission pump output to the drivers side bottom and uses the cold tank for engine oil. I've never had the opportunity to see for myself.

If you do please let me know if they differ.

I would like the 145* What are people doing? Cutting the stock line and installing the -6an fitting and then double flare the tube? Cheap mod that may save my trans come summer.

Grumpy Bear · March 4, 2019

10 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I would like the 145* What are people doing? Cutting the stock line and installing the -6an fitting and then double flare the tube? Cheap mod that may save my trans come summer.

What this people die was disassemble the factory unit and flip the 'pill' upside down. Now that's cheap.

When I install the Improved racing thermostat I'll just replumb it entirely. But your plan would work just as well. Some 45* elbows might be needed.

1SLOW1500 · March 15, 2019

What this people die was disassemble the factory unit and flip the 'pill' upside down. Now that's cheap. [emoji38]

When I install the Improved racing thermostat I'll just replumb it entirely. But your plan would work just as well. Some 45* elbows might be needed.

What would you suggest Grumpy bear? I'm have money I have to spend fast. And weather is warming up so back to projects.
What was the stock temp and what is ideal temp?
Buddy I sold.my old truck to lost a trans line on highway and just kept driving it, so $480 in new lines then new aux cooler. Oh and all new fuild.....just to find out that his diving it with the lost fluid burned out 3 and 4. So now $2300.
Next up pro TIG welding set up so I can do projects in house and get this cross member modified for the new gauge and oil relocation kit. Nothing like spending $3000 in tools for a project. But tools and skills and always valuable. Pics to come....

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SlowGMC · March 16, 2019

Awesome build this is my exact gameplan for my truck.

SlowGMC · March 16, 2019

I also meant to ask you. Would you actually consider on3 turbo kit a full kit? If you just decided to run their kit and do no other modifications would you have all the neccessary parts? I know of the areas for sure that will need attention and that is tapping the oil pan, getting a exhaust fabbed up, grinding down the grill and tuning/tuner. Are there any other things I should concern myself with?

1SLOW1500 · March 16, 2019

I also meant to ask you. Would you actually consider on3 turbo kit a full kit? If you just decided to run their kit and do no other modifications would you have all the neccessary parts? I know of the areas for sure that will need attention and that is tapping the oil pan, getting a exhaust fabbed up, grinding down the grill and tuning/tuner. Are there any other things I should concern myself with?

Sounds like you have it covered. It is very much a full kit. Just have to check the extra boxes and get map and spark plugs. Pan tap isn't hard but take your time. And I recommend larger bov spring and 8psi wastegate spring. Also a booat controller is nice. Oh you need a wide band for tuning.

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SlowGMC · March 16, 2019

9 minutes ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Sounds like you have it covered. It is very much a full kit. Just have to check the extra boxes and get map and spark plugs. Pan tap isn't hard but take your time. And I recommend larger bov spring and 8psi wastegate spring. Also a booat controller is nice. Oh you need a wide band for tuning.

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Thanks for you reply I really appreciate it! Are you planning on taking your truck to the track at all? Any idea what you would run?

1SLOW1500 · March 16, 2019

I will after fuel and converter. May also throw some slicks on the back. Depends on the launch. But have to run the numbers.
612rwhp or 750rwhp but heavy truck. Suspension can do it but converter/traction/ and weight are against me.
Got the power for 11sec in the 1/4 mile. At 750rwhp that is a 9sec car at 3200lb...
Hmmm got me thinking.
Record I have seen is 850rwhp on factory block and single turbo. Regular cab truck with the 5.3l. Forgot what it ran but think it was high 9sec.

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SlowGMC · March 17, 2019

11 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

I will after fuel and converter. May also throw some slicks on the back. Depends on the launch. But have to run the numbers.
612rwhp or 750rwhp but heavy truck. Suspension can do it but converter/traction/ and weight are against me.
Got the power for 11sec in the 1/4 mile. At 750rwhp that is a 9sec car at 3200lb...
Hmmm got me thinking.
Record I have seen is 850rwhp on factory block and single turbo. Regular cab truck with the 5.3l. Forgot what it ran but think it was high 9sec.

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Seems like your not far off hp wise. How's gas mileage? Smiles per gallon im sure

1SLOW1500 · March 17, 2019

With turbo.its not bad at all. Worst I ever seen is 11-12mpg city. And that is the full boost hard driving. But if you drive easy and day under 10% throttle I get 20mpg. I switch my boost gauge/controller to.peak boost and if it doesnt show boost your driving good and saving.
I could change the trans tune and save more and it holds the upshift if there is too much throttle demand.
People that drive it are surprized how tame it is and how little throttle moves it around quickly. I can just roll my toes and that 10% or less is every day traffic stop and go.
I'm sure the heavy 24" dont help but the lowering does on highway. Lifted guys are reporting worst mpg and superchargers being belt driven have boost based on rpm so not as easy to stay out of boost.

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SlowGMC · March 18, 2019

21 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

With turbo.its not bad at all. Worst I ever seen is 11-12mpg city. And that is the full boost hard driving. But if you drive easy and day under 10% throttle I get 20mpg. I switch my boost gauge/controller to.peak boost and if it doesnt show boost your driving good and saving.
I could change the trans tune and save more and it holds the upshift if there is too much throttle demand.
People that drive it are surprized how tame it is and how little throttle moves it around quickly. I can just roll my toes and that 10% or less is every day traffic stop and go.
I'm sure the heavy 24" dont help but the lowering does on highway. Lifted guys are reporting worst mpg and superchargers being belt driven have boost based on rpm so not as easy to stay out of boost.

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That's exactly why I want a turbo vs a supercharger. I also read somewhere a supercharger doesn't work well with cruise control. I'm sure your truck will go into boost until speed is achieved then no boost.

Edited March 18, 2019 by SlowGMC

1SLOW1500 · March 18, 2019

Correct boost is based of engine load not speed for turbo. That said lag isn't an issue once your moving. And with a stall it would jump straight to 3000rpms. Superchargers have got better. With a positive displacement pybass valve. But it is still the nature of a belt driven charger. They are not as efficient. Even on stock motors we see much lower power numbers and the engines break sooner. Also why you see so much methanol injection. It good for all vehicles but the superchargers benefit the most.

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KARNUT · March 18, 2019

That's exactly why I want a turbo vs a supercharger. I also read somewhere a supercharger doesn't work well with cruise control. I'm sure your truck will go into boost until speed is achieved then no boost.

My old truck with the Whipple works normal with cruse control. I don’t build much if any boost driving normal. Same with a Vortec S/C I had on a Ford. One of my favorite things with a S/C it takes minutes to change the pulley for increasing boost. I have nothing against turbos either.

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1SLOW1500 · March 18, 2019

We dont have cruise control issues but you can also.tune for more of a gap in speed before it kicks it off. Smaller chargers have less of a issue also. I have had nitrous,superchargers,turbo,and all motor builds. My chargers are a D1 and a F1. And a few turbo builds. Superchargers are a little easier on the user and there is no controller and it is just turn key and go. Turbo I have controller and and gauge for wideband. Also weather seems to effect it a little more. Supercharger has better low end torque. But the power curve on the turbo is better and more power total.
I see a lot of people buy the whipple then max the power out and remove it for turbo. Make more power cheaper. Turbos can be worked on with small hand tools. Mybsupercharger had to go back to pro charger. And the whipples are the same. Once they start wiping the rotors it snowballs.
Again there is a big difference in superchargers and big superchargers.

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KARNUT · March 18, 2019

We dont have cruise control issues but you can also.tune for more of a gap in speed before it kicks it off. Smaller chargers have less of a issue also. I have had nitrous,superchargers,turbo,and all motor builds. My chargers are a D1 and a F1. And a few turbo builds. Superchargers are a little easier on the user and there is no controller and it is just turn key and go. Turbo I have controller and and gauge for wideband. Also weather seems to effect it a little more. Supercharger has better low end torque. But the power curve on the turbo is better and more power total.
I see a lot of people buy the whipple then max the power out and remove it for turbo. Make more power cheaper. Turbos can be worked on with small hand tools. Mybsupercharger had to go back to pro charger. And the whipples are the same. Once they start wiping the rotors it snowballs.
Again there is a big difference in superchargers and big superchargers.

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I bought my truck 8 years ago completed. It has boost retard, timing, and rpm limit dial controls under the dash. It has a safe zone the a yellow area, came with no instructions. I tried looking on line for how to work it in conjunction with each other, no luck. I when cleaning the dash accidentally move them one day out of the safe area without realizing. The pinging that resulted I was sure l blew a piston. I move the dials back to the safe area everything was cool.

My truck has a Whipple.

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