1SLOW1500's Turbo truck build

1SLOW1500 · February 11, 2019

BIG UPDATE.....

blew out the rear main oil seal. very common. Do to pressure, oil level, and part. All out stores I called didn't have any part listed. Called friends at GM and got mine for free. Before anyone jumps on the bandwagon I was offered to have it picked up and replaced free of charge and a yukon for a loaner. I declined. I like the fact I didn't blow the engine however the part is known to have issues and all the work to install it just to have it happen again doesn't sit right with me. SO.... I got a better part after a lot of running around tighter fit, thicker rubber and better design. we compared the a few and there where major differences.

BIG job exhaust, trans lines, sway bar, fuel brackets, trans linkage, driveshaft, starter, wiring, stall convert, flywheel, and then the seal. I regret not having my stall converter ready to install. Oh well.

I also removed my lower oil pan and installed a larger oil pan bung for my turbo drain. it is taped in the pan then threaded part inside has a nut. seal washer on both sides. and red lock tight. I had to remove the skid plate and cross member as well.

Oil filter was super tight and good. so new filter is on. Just need to build and install new -10an drain line and fill with oil.

Have my 4port boost solenoid to install. and waiting on my dual port catch can for the valve covers. I will get some pics and the part number if I can in the morning.

PLEASE PEOPLE 8QUARTS OF OIL and good PCV or BREATHER TANKS

Nasty · February 11, 2019

10 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

BIG UPDATE.....

blew out the rear main oil seal. very common. Do to pressure, oil level, and part. All out stores I called didn't have any part listed. Called friends at GM and got mine for free. Before anyone jumps on the bandwagon I was offered to have it picked up and replaced free of charge and a yukon for a loaner. I declined. I like the fact I didn't blow the engine however the part is known to have issues and all the work to install it just to have it happen again doesn't sit right with me. SO.... I got a better part after a lot of running around tighter fit, thicker rubber and better design. we compared the a few and there where major differences.

BIG job exhaust, trans lines, sway bar, fuel brackets, trans linkage, driveshaft, starter, wiring, stall convert, flywheel, and then the seal. I regret not having my stall converter ready to install. Oh well.

I also removed my lower oil pan and installed a larger oil pan bung for my turbo drain. it is taped in the pan then threaded part inside has a nut. seal washer on both sides. and red lock tight. I had to remove the skid plate and cross member as well.

Oil filter was super tight and good. so new filter is on. Just need to build and install new -10an drain line and fill with oil.

Have my 4port boost solenoid to install. and waiting on my dual port catch can for the valve covers. I will get some pics and the part number if I can in the morning.

PLEASE PEOPLE 8QUARTS OF OIL and good PCV or BREATHER TANKS

My truck usually takes 8.5 qts and i have a moroso catchcan. Should i swap it to a breather? My motor is stock for the moment

1SLOW1500 · February 11, 2019

I really can't stress enough the 8 quarts. Gm is back and using that statement on all the blow by and rms issues. I spoke to one of my contacts and he said the intake clogged or not breathing enough under load then the oil pressure jumps under wot to 80psi you are asking for issues. On boosted applications my gm contact for the gm race program said breather the valve covers with 5/8 or - 10an line.
Your old or my current elite can whistles like a loud belt squeak as air leaves the clean air separator on the drive side valve cover.

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1SLOW1500 · February 12, 2019

Requested vaccum source. New mout for my boost lines and my temporary new drain. Oh and the money for the next mods!
Can't see in the Pic but still catch can to. Clean air from valve cover and css them one exit port to the intake manifold. And the other catch can exit goes to the intake tube before turbo. So when the manifold is under boost the check valve closes and the turbo is sucking. It is so much vacuum bebore the turbo it acts like a vaccum pump to the crank case. That is why the whistle. I now have the 5/8" lines on the two ports off the valve covers, they go forward and then over to the are by the turbo filter. There will be a large 1.2l dual filter baffled can there. Can't get more breathing then that.

OH I am running 7quarts right now. I get my special additive from my contact to day and it is 1quart. I have run the additive 1 oil change before and it's great no drop oil pressure and I run Royal purple oil. I believe it would be even better it the old oil was ran longer but had to drain to install drain bung.
Bung is threaded to the pan with oring seal the inside pan I have another oring and red lock tight ont he inside nut and very tight!

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300 Blackout · February 14, 2019

I’ve got a couple questions.

Is there any downside to running an oil accumulator just in case oil pressure drops?

Did you consider running an exhaust scavenging kit on your valve covers (where the stock breather ports are located) and use the PCV port as your breather with a filter and one way valve?

Are you running a vacuum regulating valve on your cold side turbo vacuum source? It seems like you could pull a ton of vacuum without one, perhaps enough to cause problems... not sure though, I’ve never seen the numbers on how much vacuum it would pull.

Love this build thread. Tons of info here.

1SLOW1500 · February 14, 2019

I’ve got a couple questions.

Is there any downside to running an oil accumulator just in case oil pressure drops?

Did you consider running an exhaust scavenging kit on your valve covers (where the stock breather ports are located) and use the PCV port as your breather with a filter and one way valve?

Are you running a vacuum regulating valve on your cold side turbo vacuum source? It seems like you could pull a ton of vacuum without one, perhaps enough to cause problems... not sure though, I’ve never seen the numbers on how much vacuum it would pull.

Love this build thread. Tons of info here.

Oil accumulators are awesome I ran one years ago on a race engine. I worry about to much pressure with our 2 stage oil pumps. I sit at 40 then under wot I jumps all most to 80.
I have run scavenge systems before that go to the exhaust and had good. Luck. But it did mist oil in the exhaust. That was a ls6 engine.
I think the hose to before the turbo is great as it pulls some serious air for the port under the throttle body. And with the exit port on the catch can going to the intake manifold under boost that is blocked off. I have not seen any oil in the turbo so the catch can is blocking that out.
The big power corvettes with forced induction have large baffled tanks on the inside fender. They port 3 and even 4 lines to the tank that has large two breather filters on it.
Question now is would it be best to just run all pcv to the tank on the fender? I have 4 ports on it only the intake manifold would need a check valve.
I will hook up 3 lines off the valve covers. Both top ports and the elite clean side separator that mounts in the valve cover.
In this cold weather I can drain my can daily and get a cup off pure water out.
I don't think it is possible to pull to much air out with the turbo as the vacuum source. High performance race cars have them to protect the pump. Being belt driven it is very hard on the pumps.
Oh the tank hose and fittings where only like $120. The GM rms is 11.00 and labor is $800+ the better rms is $23.00. The better part had a stronger rubber flap and is listed as directional. It's sits much closer to the crank and is also pre greased. Worth the upgrade.

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1SLOW1500 · February 15, 2019

OK end up. Needing some different fittings so they are ordered. I am sure this is more than enough breathing for the engine.
Update is I have 7.5quarts of oil in it. Well 7 plus additives. I will cycle through it and watch oil level then add showly. Should be 500miles before additives are spread out and absorbed in to all the little parts.
Ordered a micro relay to up the amps available to control the new dual boost solenoids. I will work on that tomorrow.
Need to do garage wiring for new welder also...
More pics tommorow.

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1SLOW1500 · February 25, 2019

Not much going on. love the new oil and additive. but it got me thinking about oil pressure and such so went shopping.

I finally made up my mind and got the Innovate dual oil gauge. It does temp and pressure. But more important it can wire into my data logger.

But then I was thinking I want a larger oil filter. After looking and many brands I liked the hamburger's product. it is billet and has -12 lines. large bolts so frame mount is clean and with the additional space I will go larger filer. May be able to go back to 8.5 quarts.

I was bored so ordered more black anodized fittings and black billet hose separators. So I can get rid of the zip tie look.

1SLOW1500 · February 28, 2019

Still waiting on more lines and oil relocation kit.
After all that work on the right oil filter I now need to get a hp4 oil filter. Looking at a 6"deep one but need to measure frame and see where it all fits.
I waited for this gauge kit as like my others it is a multi gauge oil pressure, temperature, and warning. But the new kit has new sensor as you can see close but perfect fit. Oh and also it has data in and out so I can plug it in line with other gauges and to laptop. But really I just want the oil pressure and warning.

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1SLOW1500 · March 3, 2019

Ok so quick measure show that oil adapter isn't going to fit. Hits the cross member. I should have known. Plan now is to remove sandblast the crossmember cut,weld,paint and replace. Then it will clear.
Bad news it is lows of single digit weather so other then driving to the shop. I will wait for warmer weather. But that makes me get restless so ordered up more goodie.

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1SLOW1500 · March 3, 2019

Ok so quick measure show that oil adapter isn't going to fit. Hits the cross member. I should have known. Plan now is to remove sandblast the crossmember cut,weld,paint and replace. Then it will clear.
Bad news it is lows of single digit weather so other then driving to the shop. I will wait for warmer weather. But that makes me get restless so ordered up more goodie.

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Grumpy Bear · March 3, 2019

Know what I LOVE about you and this thread? You're not a whiner. . You don't see problems as end of the world events. Just solutions, one after the other. Can't be done seems to have escaped your vocabulary. GO 1SLOW1500

Edited March 3, 2019 by Grumpy Bear

KARNUT · March 3, 2019

He’s definitely an artist that likes to create a unique ride. I’m definitely the type that researches it builds it or buys it. I just want to drive it.

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1SLOW1500 · March 3, 2019

As I said to cold but ran out and installed the chrome handle and hose brackets. Just a little nicer then zip ties.
Thanks for the kind words. There is not can't and nonsuch thing as failure. Just learn how.not rondo it or what needed to be upgraded.
Tuesday at 4 in the morning my heat at the house quite. $800+ to get a service man out and there couldn't get out till the next day. I have 2 kids and house is big so it was cold. Not a option. I used my discount,bought new blower motor and capacitor. Tore the furnace apart and in a hour it was all rebuilt. Done for $180 in parts. Skills and discounts have got me very far in life. I have 4 houses so repair cost can get expensive.
Grumpy I need to look up your post on trans lines. I can remember some of it but need to read it again.

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Grumpy Bear · March 4, 2019

12 hours ago, 1SLOW1500 said:

Grumpy I need to look up your post on trans lines. I can remember some of it but need to read it again.

Top line is the pump output. Factory transmission thermal bypass (thermostat) is a zero bypass valve. Under 192F-ish the pump output is routed directly and fully to the return line via a thermostat body internal passage.

Disconnecting the lines it will trick you into believing the lower line is the pump output.

Install one of these (photo) and that the mystery will be solved. 6AN fittings. Same as the Improved Racing 10% bypass thermostats and many coolers. Available in several temp settings starting at 145 F then 165 F and a few more. These two interested me.

Remove the belly pan and hand trace that upper line hand over hand. My V6 inters the passenger side radiator cold tank from the bottom and exits the top. I'm told that the 5.3 routes the transmission pump output to the drivers side bottom and uses the cold tank for engine oil. I've never had the opportunity to see for myself.

If you do please let me know if they differ.