2011 2500hd center link

casey.mikl · September 17, 2017

The center link on my truck is an "isolated" center link that has the bushing that I am assuming is grease filled. The bushing seems to have play in it as well as leaking grease. Is the bushing itself replaceable? Also is the center link replaceable with a 3500 non isolated center link. The bushing is to stop road vibration, a little vibration won't bother me any. I just want to tighten the steering up. Everything else is tight and I do have tie rod sleeves too.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · September 28, 2017

Bump?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

C/K Man · September 28, 2017

Are you talking about the pitman arm end? As I recall, the greasable joint is part of the pitman arm, and the pitman arm stud goes through an isolater bushing in the center link. Either way there shouldn't be any side-to-side play.

sdeeter19555 · September 28, 2017

Are you talking about the pitman arm end? As I recall, the greasable joint is part of the pitman arm, and the pitman arm stud goes through an isolater bushing in the center link. Either way there shouldn't be any side-to-side play.

I think he is referring to the carrier bearing?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · September 30, 2017

All the way on the left. There's a big rubber bushing that's in the center link. The pitman arm goes through it. Unlike the usual solid center link. It's called an isolated center link. It's supposed to reduce road vibration in the steering wheel. There is play in the rubber bushing and there looks to be grease coming out of it.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · September 30, 2017

Are you talking about the pitman arm end? As I recall, the greasable joint is part of the pitman arm, and the pitman arm stud goes through an isolater bushing in the center link. Either way there shouldn't be any side-to-side play.

I'm talking about the isolator bushing it goes through. When your under truck and turn the wheel. You can see the pitman arm squishing the bushing before the tires even start to turn. I want to know, if the bushing is changeable? Or is it possible to swap in a 3500hd center link? As I have heard that they do not have the isolator bushing.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · September 30, 2017

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

C/K Man · October 1, 2017

Looks like the bushing is available from the dealer, but I think the 3500's use the same isolated center link.

sdeeter19555 · October 6, 2017

Why don't I remember that bushing on my 2500?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

sdeeter19555 · October 7, 2017

Hmmm....that's why I don't remember it...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · October 7, 2017

Yeah I wish mine didn't have it..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sdeeter19555 · October 7, 2017

I'm going to guess it's because I have an LS (upgraded work truck)? I can get you the last six of the VIN if you want to try looking up that part number...

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Edited October 7, 2017 by sdeeter19555

casey.mikl · January 12, 2018

For anyone insterested, I purchased all new inner and outer tie rods, have tie rod sleeves, new pitman arm, new centerlink (crew cab, it deletes the isolator bushing) and kicker braces for my lift. Hoping to get it all installed soon and an alignment.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · January 13, 2018

Okay, so for future reference to anyone that may search this in the future. As no forum I have seen has a solid answer and it’s not really talked about. If you have a standard cab or an extended cab, and it has the isolated center link with the big rubber bushing, you can purchase a center link for a crew cab and it is a direct swap! The only thing different between an extended cab and a crew cab is the isolated center link. The pitman arm and idler are the same. So if you want to delete your isolated center link. Purchase a center link for a crew cab that is the same year as yours. It’s a direct swap into your truck! Also for steering components, I would suggest rock auto as they seemed to be the cheapest for moog Parts.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

casey.mikl · January 22, 2018

New center link, pitman arm, tie rods (inner and outer) and sleeves are all in. Bolted in as they should. Centerlink is a direct swap to delete the isolator. Steering is so much tighter! It was a 2 day job. I was fighting the rust and the gearbox. I totally removed the gearbox and busted the pitman arm off. I had to cut the pitman arm off of the gearbox. I had running around to do in order to find a socket to fit the pitman arm. 1 13/16. I didn’t have one big enough at the house. But now I do. I also ordered rough country’s kicker bars for the front cross member. Supposed to be a direct bolt on.. they are not. My factory cross member has no holes. So I emailed them, if anything. I’ll weld the brackets to the cross member. Overall, im happy with the new centerlink. I did not get the cognito supports, as I have heard they will have issues with the stabilizer. Maybe in the future I will add them. Next things to do, 4.88 front and rear, and fox shocks front and rear. Rough country shocks are terrible. And then a set of traction bars.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk