Sierra 1500 Denali magnetic ride shock failure?

Motoman_xrc · January 3, 2019

I have a 2015 Yukon XL Denali. Bought it brand new. Highway driving ONLY and after 70,000 miles BOTH front Magnetic Ride shocks were leaking. One leaked what looked like 10w oil and the other leaked what looked like graphite grease. What a mess! Being mechanically inclined I chose to purchase new units and replace them myself. The first one (left side) went well. I payed close attention to details, took lots of pictures, acquired the proper tools and took my time. Went to the right side and proceeded to do the same EXCEPT I found out it was wired differently from the left side. The left shock was wired with the white wire from the shock going to pin #1 and the black wire to pin #2. The right shock was wired the opposite, white wire to pin #2 and the black wire to pin #1. I was very careful and positive I didn't get them mixed up. I took and have pictures of the connectors before I took them apart. My question is does it matter? If so how can I find out which way is correct? When looking at a GM Electrical Body Builders Manual I found plugs Q37LF and Q37RF (the connectors for the front shocks) were wired the same. Pin #1,="Front Strut Motor Increase Damping Control" and Pin #2,="Front Strut Motor Decrease Damping Control". With that information I think it WOULD make a difference. Where can I find the correct information for the wiring on the shock itself?

Just 1 More · June 12, 2019

On 10/14/2018 at 11:08 AM, Just 1 More said:

I found this thread from a google search.. My rears have all but locked up.. Looking for replacement options. I can do all the work myself

Now my fronts are locked up

JimCost2014 · June 14, 2019

On ‎1‎/‎2‎/‎2019 at 9:27 PM, Motoman_xrc said:

I have a 2015 Yukon XL Denali. Bought it brand new. Highway driving ONLY and after 70,000 miles BOTH front Magnetic Ride shocks were leaking. One leaked what looked like 10w oil and the other leaked what looked like graphite grease. What a mess! Being mechanically inclined I chose to purchase new units and replace them myself. The first one (left side) went well. I payed close attention to details, took lots of pictures, acquired the proper tools and took my time. Went to the right side and proceeded to do the same EXCEPT I found out it was wired differently from the left side. The left shock was wired with the white wire from the shock going to pin #1 and the black wire to pin #2. The right shock was wired the opposite, white wire to pin #2 and the black wire to pin #1. I was very careful and positive I didn't get them mixed up. I took and have pictures of the connectors before I took them apart. My question is does it matter? If so how can I find out which way is correct? When looking at a GM Electrical Body Builders Manual I found plugs Q37LF and Q37RF (the connectors for the front shocks) were wired the same. Pin #1,="Front Strut Motor Increase Damping Control" and Pin #2,="Front Strut Motor Decrease Damping Control". With that information I think it WOULD make a difference. Where can I find the correct information for the wiring on the shock itself?

On ‎6‎/‎12‎/‎2019 at 3:17 PM, Just 1 More said:

Now my fronts are locked up

I feel both of your pain, just lost both rear shocks on our 16 Tahoe LTZ.

$1701.25 later and it rides like new again.

I sure hope that they are making the shocks better, otherwise this going to get real expensive to own a really expensive truck.

Edited June 14, 2019 by JimCost2014

camcamaro1991 · June 14, 2019

On 9/6/2017 at 9:53 PM, Magoomba said:

Really??? That's pretty disappointing to hear. I had no idea these shocks had such a bad rap. I guess I was naive thinking they were new tech on the 2015 Denali.

Is there any better solution via aftermarket?

damn old thread, lol

Almost all shocks need to be replaced at 80K or before depending on use, its the industry standard. In fact the 80K goes back decades for you not to know seems a bit ridiculous.

you guys would cry rivers over MB's ABC suspension system if just 1 shock/strut failed.

Edited June 14, 2019 by camcamaro1991

camcamaro1991 · June 14, 2019

On 12/1/2018 at 9:04 PM, MT Groove said:

Update. I bought OEM Magneride Shocks/Struts from GM Parts Direct for $350 a piece. My Denali had 67k miles at the time and the fronts were completely shot. Had them installed at a local shop. For the first 1k miles or so, it drive like a new truck. Smooth as butter. Bumps were soft. I was super happy with them. Then after 1k miles or so, it started to ride HARSH. Now it's an uncomfortable ride.

Does Magneride has "learning" like the engine and transmission? If so, is there any way to reprogram it to stop learning and stay "dumb."

No learning, everything is based on the sensors, if you didn't zero "0" out the sensors after replacement then it will ride different. (to view the sensor you need a software tool like VCX nano) or the dealership GDS2

DIY'ers these days lol.

Edited June 14, 2019 by camcamaro1991

Motoman_xrc · June 15, 2019

6 hours ago, camcamaro1991 said:

damn old thread, lol

Almost all shocks need to be replaced at 80K or before depending on use, its the industry standard. In fact the 80K goes back decades for you not to know seems a bit ridiculous.

you guys would cry rivers over MB's ABC suspension system if just 1 shock/strut failed.

This is what 70k miles of highway driving did to the shocks on my $80k Yukon Denali...

I sure wish they'd improve that industry standard!

camcamaro1991 · June 15, 2019

59 minutes ago, Motoman_xrc said:

This is what 70k miles of highway driving did to the shocks on my $80k Yukon Denali...

I sure wish they'd improve that industry standard!

damn 70K on a 2015 geez, I barely have 9k on mine.

Nothing I can do shocks are shocks, MRC's are just slightly more expensive. 80K is just an average depends on lots of conditions etc...

JesseLtz · June 18, 2019

On 6/14/2019 at 10:36 PM, Motoman_xrc said:

This is what 70k miles of highway driving did to the shocks on my $80k Yukon Denali...

I sure wish they'd improve that industry standard!

after the replacement is done, do any of the sensors have to be tinkered with at the dealership? like calibration of some sort?

Just 1 More · June 20, 2019

On 6/18/2019 at 11:48 AM, JesseLtz said:

after the replacement is done, do any of the sensors have to be tinkered with at the dealership? like calibration of some sort?

NOt that i'm aware of. Had mine replaced Monday and nothing had to be done

videoarizona · July 5, 2019

I replaced my 2004 Yukon XL SLT with a 2015 Sierra Denali. I'm a bit concerned about all this talk of the shocks going bad so early. My Yukon XL went 219K miles with only the front wheel bearing assemblies replaced just last year. It has towed my 4200lb sailboat across country and all over since day 1 of it's life. Original Shocks, brakes, etc.. I went with the GMC truck thinking I was getting the same quality. Here's hoping you guys are in the minority as I really don't want to start spending this kind of big bux on an expensive truck. I'm around 64K miles now on the Denali. Crossing fingers!

Cubpilt7 · August 25, 2019

Wow I was looking at this because I have a 2015 Sierra Denali with 75K miles and just got the news about the ridiculous priced shocks. 2k for front. I am looking for an alternative as I refuse to pay that on principal.

nobaddays · August 29, 2019

25k on my 2018 Denali 1500 and both front & rears were leaking. Fortunately both were replaced under warranty, but both at only 25k?

Mike54321 · September 1, 2021

I just hit 70,000 and my 2018 GMC Sierra Denali and it rides like crap now. I have not hauled anything. I drive highway miles. I keep my truck maintained and spotless. I can't believe there is no info on how to troubleshoot, reset, diagnose........nothing on this topic. There is so little information on this. Maybe there is no information because myself and three other people on the planet are the only four people to have an issue with MRC. If that is the case, then I really should not complain. Myself and the other three people are just the unlucky four that have issues on the thousands of different vehicles with the MRC. You would think that someone would realize there is a problem when all four SHOCKS fail at the same time. Is there a way to find out if it is all four????? or is that what we are told to get us to buy four instead of one? I just need a little direction on how to get it diagnosed or can I unhook the battery to reset it or can a reader be hooked up and if there is a code....can it be reset???????

Edited September 1, 2021 by Mike54321
typo

JimCost2014 · September 1, 2021

3 hours ago, Mike54321 said:

I just hit 70,000 and my 2018 GMC Sierra Denali and it rides like crap now. I have not hauled anything. I drive highway miles. I keep my truck maintained and spotless. I can't believe there is no info on how to troubleshoot, reset, diagnose........nothing on this topic. There is so little information on this. Maybe there is no information because myself and three other people on the planet are the only four people to have an issue with MRC. If that is the case, then I really should not complain. Myself and the other three people are just the unlucky four that have issues on the thousands of different vehicles with the MRC. You would think that someone would realize there is a problem when all four SHOCKS fail at the same time. Is there a way to find out if it is all four????? or is that what we are told to get us to buy four instead of one? I just need a little direction on how to get it diagnosed or can I unhook the battery to reset it or can a reader be hooked up and if there is a code....can it be reset???????

Welcome to the site.

If they are leaking (fluid visible on the shock housing), or are frozen in place, they need to be replaced.

Doubt very much if it is anything to do with the electronics of the truck.

Turbob5 · January 14, 2022

On 1/3/2019 at 12:27 AM, Motoman_xrc said:

I have a 2015 Yukon XL Denali. Bought it brand new. Highway driving ONLY and after 70,000 miles BOTH front Magnetic Ride shocks were leaking. One leaked what looked like 10w oil and the other leaked what looked like graphite grease. What a mess! Being mechanically inclined I chose to purchase new units and replace them myself. The first one (left side) went well. I payed close attention to details, took lots of pictures, acquired the proper tools and took my time. Went to the right side and proceeded to do the same EXCEPT I found out it was wired differently from the left side. The left shock was wired with the white wire from the shock going to pin #1 and the black wire to pin #2. The right shock was wired the opposite, white wire to pin #2 and the black wire to pin #1. I was very careful and positive I didn't get them mixed up. I took and have pictures of the connectors before I took them apart. My question is does it matter? If so how can I find out which way is correct? When looking at a GM Electrical Body Builders Manual I found plugs Q37LF and Q37RF (the connectors for the front shocks) were wired the same. Pin #1,="Front Strut Motor Increase Damping Control" and Pin #2,="Front Strut Motor Decrease Damping Control". With that information I think it WOULD make a difference. Where can I find the correct information for the wiring on the shock itself?

Have you ever found the answer to your question? I am having a similar situation. I know for a fact that the white wire goes to pin #1 and black wire to pin#2 on the drivers side. I am having an issue remembering if it was the same or opposite on the passenger side. Please let me know. Thank you! Sorry for bringing an old tread back. I have looked high and low for this and stumbled on your post.