2015 Yukon Denali - TT Towing

rook · September 5, 2017

Looking to purchase a ~6000lb dry TT. The Yukon is rated for 8100 max tow and a 1517 maxpayload. Even considering the max gross weight of the trailer, I am still within 8100. However, that doesn't mean it won't tow like a dog, or simply be white nuckled the whole time.

Has anyone towed something similar with a full size? For the most part it will be going from RDU to the beach. Only maybe a handful of times close to the mountains.

cmysstailights · September 5, 2017

I put airbags in my 15 burb. Helped a little bit. Have not towed with it just loaded for camping and what not. My payload with kids and gear was close to 1500

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

cmysstailights · September 5, 2017

My biggest complaint is gearing. Had a 2001 burb with 5.3 and 3:73 truck was nice. My 15 has the 5.3 with 3:08. If i find a wrecked silverado wouldnt mind changing gears

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

centralmepistol · September 6, 2017

Based on the way you framed your question..... STOP!

Do more research before you make your purchase. Your listed max tow of 8,100lbs sounds great, except that does not take into account the many other factors. Without getting too picky here is my suggestion for the "Can I tow it?"

What is the max GVWR of your tow vehicle? This is the max your vehicle is rated to carry; which includes you, kids, cargo, AND the hitch weight. A quick search looks like your vehicle is 7,300lbs

What is the GVWR of the trailer? This is an important number- NOT the dry weight. They are never right.

If you add the trailer and tow vehicle GVWRs you will get a combined weight of both. Now check your door jam, you will see a weight listed as GCWR (gross combined weight rating). If your added numbers are less than the GCWR- GOOD TO GO!

However, if it is over this rating you need to hit the brakes. Yes, maybe your vehicle is not "fully loaded" or you haven't filled the camper with water for the trip so it weighs a little under the max rating... BUT, these are all maybes that keep you flirting with going overweight.

Then you need to consider tongue weight.... Yeah, a whole different topic. Odds are you will be rated at 500lbs as is and 1,100lbs with a WD hitch. Ballpark the tongue weight of a camper as 10%-15%. So in your case, 600lbs-900lbs WITHOUT any additional weight in the camper- like the fridge or propane tanks. (No, they don't include those in dry weights.)

This all said, even a trailer that is under weight can be no fun to tow any further than across town. I own a 1/2 ton pickup (which is basically what a yukon is) and tow a 32' TT. My "book tow weight rating" is 9,500lbs- but when other factors are considered it is really 7,500lbs. I have put it on the scales and it weighs 6,300lbs fully loaded for camping. I can pull it just fine... But, traveling at highway speeds is no fun. I am blown all over by the wind and worse by tractor trailers. After one year of towing it I am considering downsizing for a better long haul tow.

If you decide to go through with the purchase at BARE MINIMUM purchase a quality brake control such as the Tekonsha P3 and invest in a high quality WD hitch with integrated sway control. Expect to spend $350 and likely more for a good hitch (I run the Camco R6). Don't cheap out, this is about your kids lives.

rook · September 6, 2017

Based on the way you framed your question..... STOP!

Do more research before you make your purchase. Your listed max tow of 8,100lbs sounds great, except that does not take into account the many other factors. Without getting too picky here is my suggestion for the "Can I tow it?"

What is the max GVWR of your tow vehicle? This is the max your vehicle is rated to carry; which includes you, kids, cargo, AND the hitch weight. A quick search looks like your vehicle is 7,300lbs

What is the GVWR of the trailer? This is an important number- NOT the dry weight. They are never right.

If you add the trailer and tow vehicle GVWRs you will get a combined weight of both. Now check your door jam, you will see a weight listed as GCWR (gross combined weight rating). If your added numbers are less than the GCWR- GOOD TO GO!

However, if it is over this rating you need to hit the brakes. Yes, maybe your vehicle is not "fully loaded" or you haven't filled the camper with water for the trip so it weighs a little under the max rating... BUT, these are all maybes that keep you flirting with going overweight.

Then you need to consider tongue weight.... Yeah, a whole different topic. Odds are you will be rated at 500lbs as is and 1,100lbs with a WD hitch. Ballpark the tongue weight of a camper as 10%-15%. So in your case, 600lbs-900lbs WITHOUT any additional weight in the camper- like the fridge or propane tanks. (No, they don't include those in dry weights.)

This all said, even a trailer that is under weight can be no fun to tow any further than across town. I own a 1/2 ton pickup (which is basically what a yukon is) and tow a 32' TT. My "book tow weight rating" is 9,500lbs- but when other factors are considered it is really 7,500lbs. I have put it on the scales and it weighs 6,300lbs fully loaded for camping. I can pull it just fine... But, traveling at highway speeds is no fun. I am blown all over by the wind and worse by tractor trailers. After one year of towing it I am considering downsizing for a better long haul tow.

If you decide to go through with the purchase at BARE MINIMUM purchase a quality brake control such as the Tekonsha P3 and invest in a high quality WD hitch with integrated sway control. Expect to spend $350 and likely more for a good hitch (I run the Camco R6). Don't cheap out, this is about your kids lives.

The fact that I am asking questions, means I am questioning the possibility of this even being possible. Trust me, I have stopped.

Right, looking at the sticker, 7300 GVWR

The Trailer Dry weight + Max Trailer load : 5963 + 1637 : 7600lbs -- this assumes I roll with full tanks, which is not being considered (stopping with shushing water seems even worse).

Don't get me wrong, I am strongly considering trading in the Denali for a F250, however I much prefer to keep it, I just don't know if it would be safe to tow this.

centralmepistol · September 6, 2017

Your GVWR is NOT your towing capacity. It is the weight of your yukon including you, passengers, cargo, hitch.

Double check your GCWR (Combined)... As this will tell you what your tow vehicle AND trailer can weigh TOGETHER.

Try not to think of them as separate weights. Because in the end, the combined weight rating is what your yukon is capable of stopping safely.

Right now you are comparing apples (GVWR of Yukon) and Oranges (GVWR of trailer). You need to know how much the whole fruit basket weighs (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

I hope this helps and hasn't made things any more confusing.

rook · September 6, 2017

Your GVWR is NOT your towing capacity. It is the weight of your yukon including you, passengers, cargo, hitch.

Double check your GCWR (Combined)... As this will tell you what your tow vehicle AND trailer can weigh TOGETHER.

Try not to think of them as separate weights. Because in the end, the combined weight rating is what your yukon is capable of stopping safely.

Right now you are comparing apples (GVWR of Yukon) and Oranges (GVWR of trailer). You need to know how much the whole fruit basket weighs (Gross Combined Weight Rating).

I hope this helps and hasn't made things any more confusing.

Nope. I totally understand the differences.

I don't have the truck -- needed to get some new GM lube in the transmission (lol, and this isn't with towing anything ).

The picture I have of the seal doesn't show a GCWR: https://www.amazon.com/photos/share/CaSOmzwtoCKeTjjQc7nwwPMrSY5bnpL8MW8XNvoEqKF/gallery/EmKBVNYBTBCmX641QYGRtA

I'll look through the manual to see if there is any mention of a GCWR.

centralmepistol · September 6, 2017

My apologies... it is not in the door on my truck either!

I found the information within the manual under driving and operating. This is where it gives the max trailer weight (in my case 9,500lbs) and a GCWR (of 15,000lbs for me).

So, if I have a truck max weight of 7,300lbs I subtract that from the 15,000lbs. I have a new trailer max weight of 7,700lbs- NOT the book stated 9,500lbs.

This was the "false" weight ratings I was afraid you might be getting into...

In the book you will need to know your specific model, engine size, gear ratio, and trim package. The trim package can be found in the RPO codes inside the glove box. Basically you will have codes the specify what features were installed- such as trailering package, trans cooler, etc.

All in all it took me about two weeks to get everything sorted out.

One suggestion that I had been given was to use an 80% rule. So for me that meant a camper at 80% of 7,700lbs- or 6,160lbs is a safe size to haul. I'm close at 6,300lbs but I know I can do it fully loaded and have not gone over the max.

In hind sight- buy the camper first- then buy the tow vehicle...

Good luck and sorry about my confusion on where to find the combined number!

rook · September 6, 2017

Right, just got the truck back, GCWR of 14000lbs... So, that leaves me 6700lbs, with the trailer just below 6000, I have ~700lbs of weight for gear/people/food.

The question is, should I ditch the Yukon? The numbers make me feel it is capable...

Blue2500CC · September 7, 2017

Right, just got the truck back, GCWR of 14000lbs... So, that leaves me 6700lbs, with the trailer just below 6000, I have ~700lbs of weight for gear/people/food.

The question is, should I ditch the Yukon? The numbers make me feel it is capable...

Rook,

If the tt dry weight of 6000lbs is from the "brochure", understand that the weights listed in the "brochure" do not include the weight of the propane tanks, a battery, or even options (including any "mandatory options" in the "brochure" dry weight. There will be a yellow sticker somewhere in or on the tt (ours is on the inside of the entry door) stating the actual empty weight of that tt as it rolled off the assembly line. This weight doe not include a battery, but does include the propane tanks. This can easily add 3-400lbs to the "brochure" weight.

Also know that it seems the average family adds approximately 1000lbs to the dry weight of a tt. Some more, some less as we all pack different. I would suggest planning on your tt weighing ~7000lbs and go from there with the weights. Most rolling bricks actually need 12-15% tw of the total loaded trailer weight. So 840lbs-1000lbs. Add ~100lbs for the wdh, and the family weight to see where you stand.

As mentioned, a good wdh with integrated sway control is always highly suggested. The Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC, and the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system are 3 tried and proven models. The Reese hitch head (trunnion bar model) does offer a little more fine tuning vs the Equal-I-Zer model, but all three will do the job just fine. I have been reading some very good things about the Husky CenterLine models. A buddy just bought his first tt and got the CL system and has been happy with it so far. I have also read some good things about the Recurve R6 model that Central mentioned. Just make sure you get the correct rated wd bars for your loaded tw, not based on the "brochure" dry tw!!!

Good luck!!!

ps: The F250 must have been a typo since you are on a GM truck Forum!!! ;) I am not sure about the brand new F250's, but it seems the previous models (including the 16's) do sag a bit more in the rear vs a GM Twin with the same tt. Power wise the 6.2 gas truck seems to do well, just like the GM 6.0 does. If you go with the gas F250, consider the steeper gearing (4.30's I think they are) to allow more upgrade options when you get twofootitis!!! Also consider a F350 vs the F250 (same with the GM twins) to allow more down the road options!!!

rook · September 7, 2017

Rook,

If the tt dry weight of 6000lbs is from the "brochure", understand that the weights listed in the "brochure" do not include the weight of the propane tanks, a battery, or even options (including any "mandatory options" in the "brochure" dry weight. There will be a yellow sticker somewhere in or on the tt (ours is on the inside of the entry door) stating the actual empty weight of that tt as it rolled off the assembly line. This weight doe not include a battery, but does include the propane tanks. This can easily add 3-400lbs to the "brochure" weight.

Also know that it seems the average family adds approximately 1000lbs to the dry weight of a tt. Some more, some less as we all pack different. I would suggest planning on your tt weighing ~7000lbs and go from there with the weights. Most rolling bricks actually need 12-15% tw of the total loaded trailer weight. So 840lbs-1000lbs. Add ~100lbs for the wdh, and the family weight to see where you stand.

As mentioned, a good wdh with integrated sway control is always highly suggested. The Reese Dual Cam, Reese SC, and the Equal-I-Zer 4 way system are 3 tried and proven models. The Reese hitch head (trunnion bar model) does offer a little more fine tuning vs the Equal-I-Zer model, but all three will do the job just fine. I have been reading some very good things about the Husky CenterLine models. A buddy just bought his first tt and got the CL system and has been happy with it so far. I have also read some good things about the Recurve R6 model that Central mentioned. Just make sure you get the correct rated wd bars for your loaded tw, not based on the "brochure" dry tw!!!

Good luck!!!

ps: The F250 must have been a typo since you are on a GM truck Forum!!! ;) I am not sure about the brand new F250's, but it seems the previous models (including the 16's) do sag a bit more in the rear vs a GM Twin with the same tt. Power wise the 6.2 gas truck seems to do well, just like the GM 6.0 does. If you go with the gas F250, consider the steeper gearing (4.30's I think they are) to allow more upgrade options when you get twofootitis!!! Also consider a F350 vs the F250 (same with the GM twins) to allow more down the road options!!!

Based on what I hear, I might be pushing close to the 14000lb limit. The sticker stated 6025 (the avg dry-weight from the factory is 59XX).

Considering I don't want to switch from the Yukon -> Truck, what things could be done to make the Yukon a safer TV? If the answer is _nothing_ then I guess I have my answer -- need to get a truck (hoping a 1500/half ton will suffice). I have already have in the budget for a WDH w/ Sway (BlueOX swaypro).

I will be traveling from Raleigh -> Beach so mostly flat (150 miles) ... Or within Raleigh to the lake (between 10-50 miles, depending on the lake).

This is the TT in question : http://www.dutchmen.com/kodiak/floorplans-and-pictures/floorplans-detail/?modelId=22935

elchilero53 · September 7, 2017

Looking at the link you posted, I would NOT tow that with a Yukon (or Tahoe). You are playing with fire if you do. You don't have enough payload capacity with the Yukon to handle the trailer Tongue Weight whick will be near 1000#. You are looking at a 3/4 ton to 1 ton pickup as a tow vehicle. The only numbers for weight you can really trust come from a CAT Scale, not the manufacturer's brochure. Your Yukon is limited to trailers no longer than 25 feet and weighing no more than 6800 lbs GVWR (the "dry weights" are pure BS). This is based on years of hard experience and not a few tears.

centralmepistol · September 7, 2017

I think you are right on with your thoughts... you will be right at the wire of being too heavy. It is tough using the SUV as they generally are not able to take on quite as much weight. Mostly because they are already heavier than a truck.

I can tell you that my truck, a 1/2 ton GMC 1500 crew cab with tow package, has a GCWR of 15,000lbs. This would most likely be all you "need" to haul that camper. However, speaking from experience that a camper that long (33') will get blown around a lot on the highway. For the short trips you described I'm sure you would be fine... For the longer trip- you could do it with a 1/2 ton, but it may be a white knuckle experience. My wife doesn't seem to understand why I am so tired when we get to a campground after four hours of travel- watching the wind in the trees to prepare for gusts, looking for tractor trailers passing us so I can shift to the side to minimize the wind, all while keeping one hand on the trailer brake (applying just the trailer brake is a good way to stop any sway before it gets a chance to really start). Its a lot of work....

I have looked, unsuccessfully, for a 3/4 ton SUV. They had been made in the past but it looks like GMC no longer makes them. Also, I would recommend diesel as the gas milage is horrible on the highway in a 1/2 ton- about 10mpg- when hauling on the highway.

If you must upgrade to a truck, go 3/4.

You are taking the right steps with all your research... If you decide to try with the Yukon; take the first trip by yourself, "normal" load in the camper and vehicle but no other passengers. Take the trip straight to a scale. Use this link to enter info and see how well distributed the weight is; http://www.towingplanner.com/ActualWeights/TravelTrailerCatScales

If you are well balanced it may work out. And I have seen people do far worse things than what you are thinking. But usually I see them on the sides of the road with broken down tow vehicles, or worst case in an accident.

Blue2500CC · September 8, 2017

Rook,

If I remember correctly, your factory receiver hitch is only rated for a max tw of 1000lbs. I'm not sure if that rig includes 20lb or 30lb propane tanks, but add ~120lbs for 2-20lb tanks and a battery, and ~160lbs for 2-30lb tanks and a battery to the "brochure" tw of 718lbs, so you're at ~840lbs or 880lbs before loading the tt with anything else. PLUS, if that tt has the front pass through storage and storage under the queen bed like our Jayco 32 BHDS, the tw can add up very quickly!!! Or if the fresh water tank is in front of the axle, that adds to the tw if you haul fresh water down the road.

As a comparison, our 32 has a "brochure" tw of 910lbs (or 920lbs), and we have a loaded, ready to travel tw of 1440lbs when the bike rack and 3 bikes are in the Jayco rear factory cargo hitch. That floor plan is very similar to the Jayco 28 BHBE, and most 1500/150 trucks are barely enough to safely tow it due to the payload. All comes down to how the tt and truck is packed.

Personally, I feel the rig your looking at is in 2500/250+ territory. Obviously most of this depends on loading of the truck, tt, and family weight. But as mentioned, the longer the tt, the more the wind will push it around. The heavier the tv, and the longer the wheelbase of the tv, the better the tow experience!!!

Yes, you can add air bags or similar, but they don't change the weight ratings in any way.

Good luck!!!