OEM RSE Overhead Screen Install

[TheSkycrane]

So I have been doing research for the last 5 months on this topic. I have a 2016 Tahoe with RSE and a 2020 suburban with all options but the RSE.  Wife would like the RSE in the burb.  I plan on doing it just like factory, which means no video in motion. Before I buy screens and parts I want to make sure I can get the RSE option to show up on my infotainment screen.  is it just a matter of getting an HMI and using a J2534 pass through programmer to add the RSE to my HMI? anyone have any ideas on this? @pgamboa?

[chevyzr1]

On 12/24/2018 at 10:43 PM, BlkSS said:

If you have that, just buy the corresponding dash harness for RSE and the corresponding options your truck has and the RSE roof harness.  Then you'll just need the Blu-ray/DVD drive, both screens, and a programmed HMI.  To get my rear inputs, that is what I ended up doing but your dash will need pulled and your headliner dropped.  It's not hard, just a little time.

Do you happen to know the part number of the dash harness for rse you used ? I just installed everything in my 2019 except for the rear inputs, I have the hdmi board, the console harness, and the usb connector for the hdmi coming from the DVD player but I,m having a hard time finding the dash harness. Thank you 

[BlkSS]

19 hours ago, chevyzr1 said:

Do you happen to know the part number of the dash harness for rse you used ? I just installed everything in my 2019 except for the rear inputs, I have the hdmi board, the console harness, and the usb connector for the hdmi coming from the DVD player but I,m having a hard time finding the dash harness. Thank you 

The dash harness P/N I purchased is 84024486.  It may or may not work since GM changed things up between 2016 & 2017 as the 2014-2016s have RCA, SD Card & USB and the 2017+ K2s have an HDMI and 2 USB's instead so I don't know what wiring changes there may be.  My incredible go-to parts guys retired back in August 2020 unfortunately so I haven't done much part searching since then but I did a quick search and found a 2019 2500 with RSE so if you know a good parts guy, they should be able to use that VIN to cross-reference RPOs between your truck and that one to find the harness you'll need so hopefully that'll help you. 

2019 Silverado 2500 High County 4x4 Diesel w/RSE - VIN: 1GC1KUEY2KF140071

Edited December 31, 2020 by BlkSS

[chevyzr1]

1 hour ago, BlkSS said:

The dash harness P/N I purchased is 84024486.  It may or may not work since GM changed things up between 2016 & 2017 as the 2014-2016s have RCA, SD Card & USB and the 2017+ K2s have an HDMI and 2 USB's instead so I don't know what wiring changes there may be.  My incredible go-to parts guys retired back in August 2020 unfortunately so I haven't done much part searching since then but I did a quick search and found a 2019 2500 with RSE so if you know a good parts guy, they should be able to use that VIN to cross-reference RPOs between your truck and that one to find the harness you'll need so hopefully that'll help you. 

2019 Silverado 2500 High County 4x4 Diesel w/RSE - VIN: 1GC1KUEY2KF140071

Thank you very much for that! One more question I have is, with the center console wiring harness, is it possible to get it to work without changing the dash harness ? The harness that I got with the overhead screen already has an lvds cable that's labeled rear hdmi and it looks like the console harness has the usb cable for the usb inputs in the rear so maybe it's possible that I won't need it or maybe I can just part out the part that I will need ? Any help on this is really appreciated ! 

[BlkSS]

14 minutes ago, chevyzr1 said:

Thank you very much for that! One more question I have is, with the center console wiring harness, is it possible to get it to work without changing the dash harness ? The harness that I got with the overhead screen already has an lvds cable that's labeled rear hdmi and it looks like the console harness has the usb cable for the usb inputs in the rear so maybe it's possible that I won't need it or maybe I can just part out the part that I will need ? Any help on this is really appreciated ! 

To ensure all the ports are active, I can't say 100% in your case as I don't have access to schematics anymore to verify this but I would bet that you need it.  When I did the swap, the new dash, console and roof harness all had more wires/circuits, especially at the large main connector where the console connects to the dash due to the additional inputs.  There was also an additional USB cable due to the rear USB.  Maybe GM cut back on all the different harnesses they used but I know in my case, I needed all new harnesses (or make/add the additional circuits) in order for everything to work 100% OEM.  If I recall correctly, the dash harness also had an extra USB type cable where it "T" for the Blu-ray drive in order to send the video signal to the dash screen and overhead screen but I could be wrong.  You may reach out to others to see if they have better input like @pgamboa.  

[chevyzr1]

On 12/31/2020 at 4:44 PM, BlkSS said:

To ensure all the ports are active, I can't say 100% in your case as I don't have access to schematics anymore to verify this but I would bet that you need it.  When I did the swap, the new dash, console and roof harness all had more wires/circuits, especially at the large main connector where the console connects to the dash due to the additional inputs.  There was also an additional USB cable due to the rear USB.  Maybe GM cut back on all the different harnesses they used but I know in my case, I needed all new harnesses (or make/add the additional circuits) in order for everything to work 100% OEM.  If I recall correctly, the dash harness also had an extra USB type cable where it "T" for the Blu-ray drive in order to send the video signal to the dash screen and overhead screen but I could be wrong.  You may reach out to others to see if they have better input like @pgamboa.  

So unfortunately for me you are correct. The console harness has 5 additional wire that the mating harness does not have. Fortunately I was able to find a schematic online that shows the pin outs on the hdmi input board and it appears that two of the wires are power and ground and the other 3 are for the wired headphone jack on the board. So I ordered a dash harness and received it today ! My only dilemma now is deciding on wether I should try to trace  and remove the parts that I need or replace the entire dash harness. I will say looking at this harness is very intimidating as there are ALOT of connections !

[BlkSS]

21 hours ago, chevyzr1 said:

So unfortunately for me you are correct. The console harness has 5 additional wire that the mating harness does not have. Fortunately I was able to find a schematic online that shows the pin outs on the hdmi input board and it appears that two of the wires are power and ground and the other 3 are for the wired headphone jack on the board. So I ordered a dash harness and received it today ! My only dilemma now is deciding on wether I should try to trace  and remove the parts that I need or replace the entire dash harness. I will say looking at this harness is very intimidating as there are ALOT of connections !

Good to know that there are in fact differences.  Don't be discouraged at all as the dash comes out relatively easy.  I recommend bagging the screws you remove while labeling where they came from to simplify the reinstallation.  That's what I've been doing for years and has eliminated having left over screws.  Also, once you get the dash out, you can start laying the new harness in while disconnecting the old harness which helps you get the new harness in the proper location.  Even if you don't do it that, when you lay out the new harnesses, you can see where things need to be routed as certain parts of the harness are obvious on where it needs to go.  Once again, don't be discouraged and just try to be organized and you shouldn't have any problem.  

[chevyzr1]

2 hours ago, BlkSS said:

Good to know that there are in fact differences.  Don't be discouraged at all as the dash comes out relatively easy.  I recommend bagging the screws you remove while labeling where they came from to simplify the reinstallation.  That's what I've been doing for years and has eliminated having left over screws.  Also, once you get the dash out, you can start laying the new harness in while disconnecting the old harness which helps you get the new harness in the proper location.  Even if you don't do it that, when you lay out the new harnesses, you can see where things need to be routed as certain parts of the harness are obvious on where it needs to go.  Once again, don't be discouraged and just try to be organized and you shouldn't have any problem.  

Do you have any pointers on removing the steering wheel ? Also did you notice any rattles or things not seeming as tight after resembling ? Thank you for the advice ! 

[BlkSS]

4 hours ago, chevyzr1 said:

Do you have any pointers on removing the steering wheel ? Also did you notice any rattles or things not seeming as tight after resembling ? Thank you for the advice ! 

When removing dashes, I pull the steering column so it's out of the way and then you also don't have to worry about getting the the wheel 1 spline off on reinstallation. 

 

First, disconnect the battery(ies).  Remove the driver's knee bolster (2 torx, pull to remove and then remove the hood release handle).  Remove the lower metal bracket that bolts under the steering column and behind the bolster (4 bolts if I recall correctly).  Take the covers off of the column directly behind the steering wheel (there may be a screw/torx on the bottom cover to remove to get the covers to pop off as I don't remember 100%).  The top cover locks into the bottom cover "sandwiching" the column.  You do this in order to gain full access to the wiring harness/connectors that are plugged in on the column as well as gaining access to remove the interlock cable (put key in the ignition and turn to release the lock to remove the cable). 

 

Once all the wiring is disconnected, then disconnect the column from the intermediate shaft which is connected via 1 bolt near the fire wall.  Once the bolt is removed and the column is disconnected (push up on on the shaft toward the steering wheel to remove as the column will "collapse" up) from the intermediate shaft, don't rotate the steering wheel or you'll then be buying a new clock-spring.  There are then 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the steering column up to the dash support structure.  Once those are removed, it should come right out.  If I forgot to mention anything, I apologize but that should be the majority of the column removal.  During reinstallation, make sure you get the column shaft pulled completely down on the intermediate shaft and the bolt reinstalled properly and tight where it is holding both shafts together completely.

 

Regarding any rattles/noises.  I haven't with mine nor have I had any comebacks regarding something like that and neither should you as long as you put all the screws back in and the metal expansion clips are still on the trim pieces.  If you've haven't had anything apart, some of the trim pieces will be EXTREMELY tight and will require a good pull to remove.  Make sure you have plastic trim removal tools to assist with those trim pieces as well as to prevent damaging any of the trim/dash. 

 

Once again, BAG AN LABEL ALL SCREWS you remove, doing so in parts/sections, i.e. cluster, glove boxes, infotainment screen, etc. as this will help you greatly on the reinstallation saving you time/sanity and helping prevent any noises.  Again, on all the trim pieces that snap in, make sure the metal expansion clips come out.  If they don't, immediately carefully pry them out with a pocket screwdriver/pick and put them back on the trim piece(s).     

 

During removal, be patient and organized and if something seems to be caught, make sure there isn't a hidden screw.  During reinstallation, if its fighting you and doesn't want to "go", don't force it or you'll break something.  Take a breath/walk away for a moment.  It really isn't a bad/hard job at all, just be patient and organized.  You may be surprised how easy it is after everything is complete.  

 

If you have questions, let me know and I'll try to help as much as possible as long as my memory is cooperating.  If you don't get to it soon and if my work allows later this year (spring/summer), I'll be pulling mine again to work on the HUD retrofit, again IF WORK ALLOWS as I've been sitting on all the HUD parts for about 2 years now so my memory should be better by then.  Good luck, enjoy and don't get discouraged.  Once complete, share the pics.

[chevyzr1]

23 hours ago, BlkSS said:

When removing dashes, I pull the steering column so it's out of the way and then you also don't have to worry about getting the the wheel 1 spline off on reinstallation. 

 

First, disconnect the battery(ies).  Remove the driver's knee bolster (2 torx, pull to remove and then remove the hood release handle).  Remove the lower metal bracket that bolts under the steering column and behind the bolster (4 bolts if I recall correctly).  Take the covers off of the column directly behind the steering wheel (there may be a screw/torx on the bottom cover to remove to get the covers to pop off as I don't remember 100%).  The top cover locks into the bottom cover "sandwiching" the column.  You do this in order to gain full access to the wiring harness/connectors that are plugged in on the column as well as gaining access to remove the interlock cable (put key in the ignition and turn to release the lock to remove the cable). 

 

Once all the wiring is disconnected, then disconnect the column from the intermediate shaft which is connected via 1 bolt near the fire wall.  Once the bolt is removed and the column is disconnected (push up on on the shaft toward the steering wheel to remove as the column will "collapse" up) from the intermediate shaft, don't rotate the steering wheel or you'll then be buying a new clock-spring.  There are then 2 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the steering column up to the dash support structure.  Once those are removed, it should come right out.  If I forgot to mention anything, I apologize but that should be the majority of the column removal.  During reinstallation, make sure you get the column shaft pulled completely down on the intermediate shaft and the bolt reinstalled properly and tight where it is holding both shafts together completely.

 

Regarding any rattles/noises.  I haven't with mine nor have I had any comebacks regarding something like that and neither should you as long as you put all the screws back in and the metal expansion clips are still on the trim pieces.  If you've haven't had anything apart, some of the trim pieces will be EXTREMELY tight and will require a good pull to remove.  Make sure you have plastic trim removal tools to assist with those trim pieces as well as to prevent damaging any of the trim/dash. 

 

Once again, BAG AN LABEL ALL SCREWS you remove, doing so in parts/sections, i.e. cluster, glove boxes, infotainment screen, etc. as this will help you greatly on the reinstallation saving you time/sanity and helping prevent any noises.  Again, on all the trim pieces that snap in, make sure the metal expansion clips come out.  If they don't, immediately carefully pry them out with a pocket screwdriver/pick and put them back on the trim piece(s).     

 

During removal, be patient and organized and if something seems to be caught, make sure there isn't a hidden screw.  During reinstallation, if its fighting you and doesn't want to "go", don't force it or you'll break something.  Take a breath/walk away for a moment.  It really isn't a bad/hard job at all, just be patient and organized.  You may be surprised how easy it is after everything is complete.  

 

If you have questions, let me know and I'll try to help as much as possible as long as my memory is cooperating.  If you don't get to it soon and if my work allows later this year (spring/summer), I'll be pulling mine again to work on the HUD retrofit, again IF WORK ALLOWS as I've been sitting on all the HUD parts for about 2 years now so my memory should be better by then.  Good luck, enjoy and don't get discouraged.  Once complete, share the pics.

Thank you for the detailed write up and words of encouragement. I will be sure to document and take several pictures of the process to share. On the hud retrofit, I too purchased a Denali cluster and had it programmed as well as a hud and harness, but unfortunately since I have a diesel the cluster I was sent does not have the usb connector that connects it to the hud. I spoke with Chris white and he said at this time they don't have a remedy. I've been thinking of buying a used cluster with the hud output and trying to remove the connector off the board and soldering it on to this cluster as it has the menu on the dic for adjusting the hud location on the windshield so I believe the programming is there. 

[BlkSS]

10 hours ago, chevyzr1 said:

Thank you for the detailed write up and words of encouragement. I will be sure to document and take several pictures of the process to share. On the hud retrofit, I too purchased a Denali cluster and had it programmed as well as a hud and harness, but unfortunately since I have a diesel the cluster I was sent does not have the usb connector that connects it to the hud. I spoke with Chris white and he said at this time they don't have a remedy. I've been thinking of buying a used cluster with the hud output and trying to remove the connector off the board and soldering it on to this cluster as it has the menu on the dic for adjusting the hud location on the windshield so I believe the programming is there. 

You got me thinking about the HUD now.  I have a diesel and had Chris program my UHS cluster for HUD about 3 1/2 years ago and I am 99% sure my cluster had the open/unused port on the back for the HUD.  I guess I need to double check and if so, wire in Phil's harness I bought and just plug it in to see if it works before I go cutting anything.  Thanks.  

[chevyzr1]

38 minutes ago, BlkSS said:

You got me thinking about the HUD now.  I have a diesel and had Chris program my UHS cluster for HUD about 3 1/2 years ago and I am 99% sure my cluster had the open/unused port on the back for the HUD.  I guess I need to double check and if so, wire in Phil's harness I bought and just plug it in to see if it works before I go cutting anything.  Thanks.  

If you get a chance could you verify that the  connector is there ? I had mine programmed for it but the opening where the connector is supposed to be does not have the connector. 

[chevyzr1]

On 1/21/2021 at 9:24 AM, BlkSS said:

You got me thinking about the HUD now.  I have a diesel and had Chris program my UHS cluster for HUD about 3 1/2 years ago and I am 99% sure my cluster had the open/unused port on the back for the HUD.  I guess I need to double check and if so, wire in Phil's harness I bought and just plug it in to see if it works before I go cutting anything.  Thanks.  

Here is a picture of the back of my cluster. If you look closely you'll see that while there is a cut out for the connector, no connector exists in the opening. 

[BlkSS]

@chevyzr1, thanks for posting.  I was hoping to have a chance to pull my cluster sometime this weekend.  I'll post my findings once I get it out. 

[BlkSS]

@chevyzr1 here's my cluster.  As I previously mentioned, when I have a chance, I'll try to wire in Phil's harness and see if it all works before I go any further.

Edited February 1, 2021 by BlkSS