100k+ mile update for 2014+ trucks?

[Bobber]

Hit 103k last night... basic maintenance and recall stuff; you can find my "history" on this site so I won't retype it here. All in all, I'm quite happy with the truck...I've gotten as high as 25.4mpg in 25miles, 22+ in 50, and 20+ in 400... so I'm happy with that... wouldn't mind even better though (read below)

 

A few things I wish i could resolve without spending money:

• The clicking/shifty drivers seat - I've just lived with it since the dealer couldn't/wouldn't fix it.
• It spends less time in V4 mode now than it used to on the same daily route - I think this is why I'm not as good on mpg as I used to be (previously, my best 25 mile stint was something over 26mpg before the battery died. I'd discussed this in another thread as well). I feel like it is down on power/torque slightly compared to when it was newer.
• Trans shifting/Throttle response - hunts gears sometimes, or just can't seem to "pick one gear down" when I give it a little gas... jumps down two instead of one, then upshifts again within 5 secs. (may have to go the way Gone Fishing did with a tune - but only if I can keep the V4 mode!)
• Trans/Engine can be "lurchy" sometimes when coming to a stop or when trying to pull away from a stop.... driveline clunks, rpm stumbles and recovers (drops below 500rpm), won't launch for a split second... They showed me a bulletin that indicates that the transmission is "in transition" and commands "zero torque" from the engine until it is finished downshifting. I've wondered if it was TPS related, or if I have torque convertor clutches acting up... At least I'm on record complaining about it (prior to 100k miles)... so if something happens in the near future mileage-wise, I can argue it for coverage.
• More power when pulling my enclosed trailer (as I've mentioned above, and mentioned in other threads regarding my rear axle ratio choice..)
• Oil consumption/loss (same as Gone Fishing stated)
• Oil Leak - leaves a few drops a day - haven't looked into where it's coming from.... may force the dealer to evaluate it since they just changed the oil.
• A "harmonic" oscillation/sound at ~58mph that is likely in the exhaust - so I just drive faster
• Plugging an iPod into the USB in the center console storage bay results in the MyLink and iPod locking up after a few tracks or so... The radio reboots, but I need to reboot the iPod manually, then it starts over like it was never connected - really sucks when listening to an Audible book. I've gone to using the headphone jack and Aux input instead; less integrated (need to control the iPod from the iPod instead of the dash - I know this is a "1st world problem", truly NBD,

[njk4o5]

26mpg...is your truck the configuration in your details? the crew cab short bed? you hand calculating that?

[Cjmooch]

Bumping this post by giving a update on my truck

 

just rolled to 70,000 miles on my 2014 5.3 V8. It has been lifted 6” on 35s since new, I bought with 38,000 miles two years ago.

 

Matinance has only been oil changes always done at 6k miles and frequent tire rotations. At least every 6k miles sometimes 3k

 

problems:

 

The AC compressor went out around 45,000 miles

the transmission coolant line in the front was leaking, replaced like and no issues (68,000)

Alternator went out around 60,000 miles

 

I got a superchips programmer, which is a must for a lifted Silverado. Truck drives way smoother on the highway as it actually stays in 6th gear going down the highway rather van bouncing between 5th and 6th

 

also, if you are deciding between nitto trail grapplers versus nitto ridge grapplers, go the ridge. I was on the trail graps for about 10,000 miles and once they wore a little they got pretty loud on the highway. I’m at around 10,000 on these and they are much quieter and comfortable, yet still look aggressive like the trail graps.

 

ive done a roadtrip to Colorado from Texas with the current set up and it was very smooth and comfortable . Depending on the wind direction, I get about 12-15 on the highway

 

[richamor]

Bought my 2015 WT used last year with 104,000+. My first Chevy in quite a few years. According to the carfax all service had been done at the selling dealer since new and on schedule. The truck now has ~150,000. I had to replace a cracked AC condenser a couple of months ago but otherwise it's simply been maintain, gas, and drive. Trans fluid and filter changed. Coolant flush and front/rear diffs scheduled as soon as I get garage time. New plugs when I brought it home. Had a 5startuning tune installed and now the truck acts like a truck should. So far with the tune I'm averaging about 18mpg and I can live with that:-) Put Bilstein 5100's on it a few weeks ago and it handles better but doesn't ride as good as the OEM black shocks.

I plan to maintain and drive this truck for many more miles. It's paid for, runs great, gets decent mileage, it's comfortable, quiet, and it looks good. I've made lots of mods to the interior to suit me and I like it just as it is. I pull a camper and a blower and exhaust are on the table for later this year otherwise.....just gonna drive it. 

Edited February 11, 2019 by richamor

[Grumpy Bear]

2015 Rado with 86,000 on the clock. Repairs? A $15 pinion seal. 

[fullsend]

Hi All,

 

Guest posting. Just finished a drive from Atlanta to Allentown PA. Truck just crossed 134k. 2014 LTZ Z71 5.3L. This is my first truck, will probably try a Ford next time around. Only my third vehicle, and my Japanese econoboxes never had these issues, but consider me impressed based on what I heard about American vehicles. She’s been rode hard and put up wet since day 1, still gets me from A to B. Even after a rear ending causing frame damage.

 

Issues

 

- Cracked AC condenser replaced, have had AC issues since 60k

- Complete trans rebuild at 98k. Phew.

- Had a grounding issue behind the dash causing all sorts of faults every time I pressed the brake pedal and using hazards killed instrument panel completely. Tightened ground fastener and all is good.
- Sway bar links both rusted and snapped. 
- Whining noise at 55-60mph. Maybe a U joint?

- Shakes at speed depending on the day of the week it seems.

- Front diff is leaking fluid out of one side. I just keep her topped off, never use the 4wd.

- Transmission is clunky af. I used to think I’d broke something every time it stuttered. Oh well

- Catalytic converter heat shielding fasteners broke and left it hanging, made quite the racket driving down the road

 

Maintenance

 

- Spark plugs at 100k

- Both diff fluids at 100k, trans fluid was changed during the rebuild

- The thing warps front rotors like no other. Changed once a year along with the pads. 
- Oil every 10k, anything full synthetic 0w-20 with some MOA. I’ll probably reduce the interval to 7500 or 5000 soon. I run a tank of E85 through it once in a while to help clean it out.
- Tires once every 2 years

I’d like to do some front end work, replace tie rods, control arms, the shocks are shot but I like the factory ranchos. It’s a pavement pounder. Anybody done timing chain/belt?

 

I’d like to get 250k out of the truck, I don’t think it’s a stretch, it’s amazing how much potential failure has been engineered out of these things.  It’s amazing they make it past 1000 mi.

Evin

 

 

[TXGREEK]

Hi All,
 
Guest posting. Just finished a drive from Atlanta to Allentown PA. Truck just crossed 134k. 2014 LTZ Z71 5.3L. This is my first truck, will probably try a Ford next time around. Only my third vehicle, and my Japanese econoboxes never had these issues, but consider me impressed based on what I heard about American vehicles. She’s been rode hard and put up wet since day 1, still gets me from A to B. Even after a rear ending causing frame damage.
 
Issues
 
- Cracked AC condenser replaced, have had AC issues since 60k
- Complete trans rebuild at 98k. Phew.
- Had a grounding issue behind the dash causing all sorts of faults every time I pressed the brake pedal and using hazards killed instrument panel completely. Tightened ground fastener and all is good.
- Sway bar links both rusted and snapped. 
- Whining noise at 55-60mph. Maybe a U joint?
- Shakes at speed depending on the day of the week it seems.
- Front diff is leaking fluid out of one side. I just keep her topped off, never use the 4wd.
- Transmission is clunky af. I used to think I’d broke something every time it stuttered. Oh well
- Catalytic converter heat shielding fasteners broke and left it hanging, made quite the racket driving down the road
 
Maintenance
 
- Spark plugs at 100k
- Both diff fluids at 100k, trans fluid was changed during the rebuild
- The thing warps front rotors like no other. Changed once a year along with the pads. 
- Oil every 10k, anything full synthetic 0w-20 with some MOA. I’ll probably reduce the interval to 7500 or 5000 soon. I run a tank of E85 through it once in a while to help clean it out.
- Tires once every 2 years

I’d like to do some front end work, replace tie rods, control arms, the shocks are shot but I like the factory ranchos. It’s a pavement pounder. Anybody done timing chain/belt?
 
I’d like to get 250k out of the truck, I don’t think it’s a stretch, it’s amazing how much potential failure has been engineered out of these things.  It’s amazing they make it past 1000 mi.

Evin

 
 

Sorry you’ve had so many issues but it’s the 14-15 models that have had most all you’ve mentioned. You haven’t seen the issues in the F150 Forums, lots of issues front to back. Even Toyota has its issues as well, hence massive law suits, more like pic of the draw with each and every manufacturer. Sell yours and get an 18 cheap with GM extended warranty, never buy first new engine and transmission that comes out as you’ll be the guinea pig with them all, always buy within last two years of running model cause they’ve worked out most of the problems by then. I’d recommend changing your oil more frequently, no more extended oil changes, 5K miles max and use top of the line oils and Wix XP filters.


Sent from Above

[fullsend]

27 minutes ago, TXGREEK said:

 

Sorry you’ve had so many issues but it’s the 14-15 models that have had most all you’ve mentioned. You haven’t seen the issues in the F150 Forums, lots of issues front to back. Even Toyota has its issues as well, hence massive law suits, more like pic of the draw with each and every manufacturer. Sell yours and get an 18 cheap with GM extended warranty, never buy first new engine and transmission that comes out as you’ll be the guinea pig with them all, always buy within last two years of running model cause they’ve worked out most of the problems by then. I’d recommend changing your oil more frequently, no more extended oil changes, 5K miles max and use top of the line oils and Wix XP filters.


Sent from Above

 

+1 on Wix XP, it’s all I’ll use. I’m usually doing oil changes in a hotel parking lot.

 

Thanks for the advice. I’m gonna run it until she breaks in two. After being in plenty of F150s and Tundras, I truly think GM makes a nicer truck. 

[Grumpy Bear]

103,000 miles now on Pepper.

 

Every complaint anyone has ever had about the 4.3 Ecotec3 motor or the 6L80E transmission has failed to show itself so far. No tune, No catch can. No AFM disable. No issues other than afore mentioned $15 pinion seal early on. Which BTW I could have ignored pretty much forever.

 

My maintenance is proactive. If I just didn't like something, I changed it. If I thought it might become a problem, I modified it. I didn't wait for it to break then cry all over my keyboard. I didn't address things just because others had an issue with I wasn't having problems with giving into fear. (list above in bold). I don't leave things unresolved like paint chips. The ride for example; King/Deaver/Sulastic suspension and a good alignment. Didn't like how hot it ran. IPSCO remote housing and a Riesch Racing 170 F stat. Transmission heat. Modified thermostat. Whiter low beam bulbs. Sylvania. Group III fluids. Changed to Group IV/V Red Line or AMSOIL. Occasional UOA's. Replaced VLOM screen EARLY before it became an issue. At 100K plugs and wires. (could have left them alone after inspection and testing) First thing and ONLY to actually wear out were the wiper blades at 78K. Replaced OEM. 

 

There has been a handful of recalls of no major importance addressed. One outstanding. Brake booster pump that works perfectly. Yea not fixing something that isn't an issue.  

 

Still on factory Bridgestone Dueler tires which are just under 7/32" and OEM brakes that look like new. 

 

She has shown an average 3% increase in MPG for each 10K driven. Lifetime average 27.5 mpg and still rising. 

 

One seal repair and a pair of wiper blades and a whole lot of enjoyment.

 

Drives perfect. Rides nice. Shifts like a dream. Lively and responsive. Economical and pleasing to look at. IMHO of course. 

 

 

 

[TXGREEK]

103,000 miles now on Pepper.

 

Every complaint anyone has ever had about the 4.3 Ecotec3 motor or the 6L80E transmission has failed to show itself so far. No tune, No catch can. No AFM disable. No issues other than afore mentioned $15 pinion seal early on. Which BTW I could have ignored pretty much forever.

 

My maintenance is proactive. If I just didn't like something, I changed it. If I thought it might become a problem, I modified it. I didn't wait for it to break then cry all over my keyboard. I didn't address things just because others had an issue with I wasn't having problems with giving into fear. (list above in bold). I don't leave things unresolved like paint chips. The ride for example; King/Deaver/Sulastic suspension and a good alignment. Didn't like how hot it ran. IPSCO remote housing and a Riesch Racing 170 F stat. Transmission heat. Modified thermostat. Whiter low beam bulbs. Sylvania. Group III fluids. Changed to Group IV/V Red Line or AMSOIL. Occasional UOA's. Replaced VLOM screen EARLY before it became an issue. At 100K plugs and wires. (could have left them alone after inspection and testing) First thing and ONLY to actually wear out were the wiper blades at 78K. Replaced OEM. 

 

There has been a handful of recalls of no major importance addressed. One outstanding. Brake booster pump that works perfectly. Yea not fixing something that isn't an issue.  

 

Still on factory Bridgestone Dueler tires which are just under 7/32" and OEM brakes that look like new. 

 

She has shown an average 3% increase in MPG for each 10K driven. Lifetime average 27.5 mpg and still rising. 

 

One seal repair and a pair of wiper blades and a whole lot of enjoyment.

 

Drives perfect. Rides nice. Shifts like a dream. Lively and responsive. Economical and pleasing to look at. IMHO of course. 

 

 

 

 

Your proactive maintenance has a lot to do with your vehicles longevity, using top tier synthetic motor oils like Amsoil and Redline lessons the wear and tear of your vehicles components between oil changes. Majority of people in here look at buying “Good Enough” oil just to meet factory specs which is NOT proactive towards longevity of your engine. If you want to live longer then your diet and life style shows it, same thing goes for your vehicles. It’s turning into a Zoo in these forums caused by those who hate to spend money on their $40K-$60K vehicles, using only what’s to specs required and later blaming the manufacturers for failures. Some failures are the manufacturers responsibility but most are the owners. Using top tier fluids WILL prolong the life of your vehicles, made a difference for me.

 

 

Sent from Above

 

[TXGREEK]

There was a recent post somewhere with a poster response was that he’s had engine problems and later said one of his future mods was going to be a supercharger, really? Wonder why you’ve got engine problems, stupid is as stupid does!


Sent from Above

[boettcher40]

Just got my 14 GMC SLT 5.3 last week with 97k on it. I've already put on over 1000 miles and absolutely love the truck besides some stupid common issues. 

 

First off AC Condenser was replaced <10k ago. Prior to purchasing I had read the welds cracking were a huge deal so I was relieved to hear this. Next my seat would move slightly around corners and this annoyed the piss out of me. Got the GM part #13405675 and 13594989 (from the TSB) and no more seat movement. Other than these issues (and the horrible shifting points, ordering an intune 3 with Lew's tune soon to fix this) it has been solid. 

 

I brought it in for the vacuum pump brake assist recall deal. Had them do a full look over of the truck. Of course the stealership had outrageous prices for everything, (~$2.5k) but I'm mechanically inclined to do all this work myself sometime in the future for a fraction of that price.

 

-Plugs & wires @ 100k

-Trans and dif flush @ 100k

-2 ball joints and a tie rod end

-Oil cooler lines were leaking & so was the oil pan. I keep it in the garage every night and haven't noticed anything on the floor so not a big deal to me. If it gets worse I'll look more into this.

-Rear parking brake needed to be adjusted causing a very high pitched electrical frequency noise which sounded like it was in my door. This was the biggest headache until I changed rear brakes/rotors and adjusted the parking brake. Annoying noise = gone.

 

Didn't ever tow much more than a 12' alum trailer so just hoping the trans holds up for me as long as I own it. Love this truck! (Other than the ugly orange side markers which are being replaced by Klearz lenses tonight )

 

If I come across any problems I'll make sure to report back 

[amxguy1970]

On 9/30/2019 at 10:33 AM, TXGREEK said:

 

Your proactive maintenance has a lot to do with your vehicles longevity, using top tier synthetic motor oils like Amsoil and Redline lessons the wear and tear of your vehicles components between oil changes. Majority of people in here look at buying “Good Enough” oil just to meet factory specs which is NOT proactive towards longevity of your engine. If you want to live longer then your diet and life style shows it, same thing goes for your vehicles. It’s turning into a Zoo in these forums caused by those who hate to spend money on their $40K-$60K vehicles, using only what’s to specs required and later blaming the manufacturers for failures. Some failures are the manufacturers responsibility but most are the owners. Using top tier fluids WILL prolong the life of your vehicles, made a difference for me.

 

 

Sent from Above

 

How can any vehicle last past a 100k without Amsoil products in their vehicle? 

 

Tyler

[TXGREEK]

How can any vehicle last past a 100k without Amsoil products in their vehicle? 
 
Tyler

Lol, Amsoil and Redline are the only go to motor oils I’d highly recommend.


Sent from Above

[mookdoc6]

Enough of the nonsense TXGREEK ok?  You can eat Carrots and green beans your whole life and die from cancer at a young age...OK?  AMSOIL is fine so is Mobil,Valvoline etc.etc.  

You can have lifter failures with AMSOIL so relax

Edited October 9, 2019 by mookdoc6