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2014 Sierra AC compressor seized up


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The a/c line and the condenser are the common issues. I am one of the lucky one who got their condenser in the middle of summer and am presently happy under warranty. But it is ridiculous on a new truck. Was told it is on national back order and 500,000 trucks are effected. Did they make 500,000 trucks in 3 years?? Crazy. My dealer had 8 trucks ahead of me. So be happy it's not the condenser. I am hoping this new condenser is a replacement style so it doesnt happen again.

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Have not really looked at one of these late models but typically not a huge deal. If I was not so lazy I would walk out and pop the hood on my 2017 and sneak a peek it is probably identical. Sry about that LOL.

If you lost the compressor be sure to swap out the condenser. Most late model condensers are dual pass and cannot be flushed to remove compressor junk and contaminants especially if the leak sealer crap was added to the system at some time.. Swap the accumulator (filter drier) and expansion device (probably orfice tube?). Probably need a special tool to disconnect the lines but the tools are cheap. If you go aftermarket you will probably spend around 400 bones on all the parts. If you have a neighbor/friend that has a vaccum pump / gauges and a 30 lb cylinder of R134A you can get out cheap. Note: Be very careful on the compressor to read all installation instructions, sometimes they are shipped dry and you will need to add the Proper PAG oil! I had a neighbor that bought a new push mower the other day wanted me to come look and see what was wrong with it.The numb nuts did not realize that it is shipped dry of oil LOL it only ran a few minutes before seizing up........oil was still in the box along with the instructions.

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Have not really looked at one of these late models but typically not a huge deal. If I was not so lazy I would walk out and pop the hood on my 2017 and sneak a peek it is probably identical. Sry about that LOL.

If you lost the compressor be sure to swap out the condenser. Most late model condensers are dual pass and cannot be flushed to remove compressor junk and contaminants especially if the leak sealer crap was added to the system at some time.. Swap the accumulator (filter drier) and expansion device (probably orfice tube?). Probably need a special tool to disconnect the lines but the tools are cheap. If you go aftermarket you will probably spend around 400 bones on all the parts. If you have a neighbor/friend that has a vaccum pump / gauges and a 30 lb cylinder of R134A you can get out cheap. Note: Be very careful on the compressor to read all installation instructions, sometimes they are shipped dry and you will need to add the Proper PAG oil! I had a neighbor that bought a new push mower the other day wanted me to come look and see what was wrong with it.The numb nuts did not realize that it is shipped dry of oil LOL it only ran a few minutes before seizing up........oil was still in the box along with the instructions.

HaHa! I'm one of those guys.If you lived in SoCal I'd be happy to help you out,I do all of my own A/C work.My old '95 Suburban's A/C blows cold front and rear,wife's '99 Burb as well.

Edited by grampadirt
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Sweet Jesus, I'll need that nation wide backordered condenser too?

 

I found a local aftermarket one with a warranty in south Florida over a month ago. Dealer wouldnt put it in under warranty even though it had a 5 year warranty. I believe an aftermarket may be better at this point.

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When a compressor seizes, it likely contaminated the system with metal. The lines are easy to flush. As mentioned, replace the condenser. That leaves the evaporator. The inlet to the evaporator has the orifice, which has a fine screen. Replace the orifice assembly. You'll need to flush the evaporator. Flush kits are available from ACKits.com. Be careful about what fluid you use to flush. Some solvents leave a residue and will not be good for AC flushing.

 

The lines are held with a single hex nut at each component. The orifice is in a block attached to the evaporator flange on the firewall with Torx screws. Change all the line seals. Santec makes a seal kit for about $12, available at Autozone. The factory GM seals are about $20 each and ther are at least 8.

 

The latest revised compressor from GM can be had for under $300 online, the newest lines will bring it to $500. An aftermarket condenser will run from $90 to 250 depending on how bad they're price gouging.

Edited by spurshot
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Would be a great contribution if someone pieced together all the parts necessary to rebuild the AC and maybe even a how to guide.

 

I can fix a lot of stuff on cars but tend to get confused wih the AC system, a lot of people are probably the same.

 

Just waiting for the day the AC kicks the bucket on my'14

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Would be a great contribution if someone pieced together all the parts necessary to rebuild the AC and maybe even a how to guide.

I can fix a lot of stuff on cars but tend to get confused wih the AC system, a lot of people are probably the same.

Just waiting for the day the AC kicks the bucket on my'14

If you are really interested in working on AC systems, you need to get books on the subject which explain the basic principles of operation. Until you have that knowledge, you'll be floundering in the dark. Servicing an AC system is going to be pretty standard across most vehicles.

 

Our trucks are nothing particularly special compared to other vehicles. There's a compressor, condenser, expansion orifice, evaporator, lines connecting the components, and finally a control module which controls the electrical control of the clutch, using pressure sensors, and controls the ducting doors.

 

These days you can go online to a GM parts seller and look at an exploded view of the AC system. This and knowledge of operation and servicing an ac system is about all you need.

 

Most home mechanics won't take the time to learn ac systems and spend the money for the servicing equipment. This type of work is one of the highest cost tasks for a vehicle. To me, it's worth learning. I see people paying $1000-2000 all the time for ac leak fixing and recharging the system.

Edited by spurshot
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Did your truck screech or squeal when you started it, prior to this? Mine does.

That's a sure sign the compressor is either seizing from a mechanical issue or it's hydraulic locking from over filling. If you've had any freon added, it could be over filled.

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That's a sure sign the compressor is either seizing from a mechanical issue or it's hydraulic locking from over filling. If you've had any freon added, it could be over filled.

Nope I havent done anything to it. I mentioned it to the dealer, but their mentality is, we will fix it when it breaks

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