WDH Setup Question

revrnd · May 27, 2017

I've posted this on the Forest River Forum, but thought some of you guys may have a suggestion or 2.

New TV, a 2017 Chev Silverado HD (regular cab, long box) & the TT is a Rckwood 2106 w/ a GVW of 4875. I seem to be having an issue adjusting it (instructions don't give a lot of 'what ifs')

I didn't have a problem adjusting the WDH when I got my TT back in '09 ('04 Silverado 2500HD), nor in '11 when I checked the measurements when hooked up to my ''11 2500HD.

This truck seems to have thrown a wrench @ me. Sitting on level pavement, these are the measurements I've gotten:

(Hitch ball & coupler set so that TT is level)

Unloaded - Front bumper: 23" Rear bumper: 26"

TV & TT hitched (no bars): Front bumper: 23 3/4" Rear bumper: 24 1/2"

Bars connected:

5 links - Front bumper: 23 1/8" Rear bumper: 26"

6 links - Front bumper: 23 1/4" Rear bumper: 25 1/4"

7 links - Front bumper: 23 5/8" Rear bumper: 25"

This is what the Husky instructions state:

Vehicle should settle evenly, within 1/2". Re-measure the front and rear bumper reference points. If the front has settled much more than the rear, increase the number of chain links between the lift bracket and the spring bar. The spring bars should be nearly horizontal when correct height is achieved.

Do I have to 'tip' the head? There is fore & aft aft adjustment, this is only mentioned in the instructions to position the hitch ball vertical or slightly back.

In the case that my instructions may be be 'lacking', can anyone suggestion any online info that may be more comprehensive?

I know 2 fellows in the village that have TTs, but they're both out of town right now. One of them switches TVs about every other year, so I imaging he's had practice setting up his hitch.

TIA

sdeeter19555 · May 27, 2017

In my opinion, you are trying to use a WDH where it is not needed. 10% of 4800 is technically 480#s of tongue weight...that isn't even enough to warrant a WDH on a 2500hd. I carry the tongue weight of my Passport without a WDH and without a single issue, and have slightly more tongue weight that you.

You may need lighter bars...

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

revrnd · May 27, 2017

In my opinion, you are trying to use a WDH where it is not needed. 10% of 4800 is technically 480#s of tongue weight...that isn't even enough to warrant a WDH on a 2500hd. I carry the tongue weight of my Passport without a WDH and without a single issue, and have slightly more tongue weight that you.

You may need lighter bars...

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

Actually, I was thinking the same thing LOL On my '04 & '11 (w/ the same trailer), using the WDH, levelled out the truck.

sdeeter19555 · May 27, 2017

It only sets you down 1.5"s?

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blwright · May 28, 2017

I'd only pitch the head if the nose of the trailer was high/low to compensate for leveling the trailer when hooked.

Chevor · May 28, 2017

I usually just place hitch on ball, hand tight bars. Then remove weight off jack.

ShawnR · May 29, 2017

Go with 5 or 6 links. You're within the 1/2 inch there. Tilt the ball if the bars aren't reasonably parallel with the trailer frame.

Blue2500CC · June 3, 2017

Rev,

The truck manufactures have changed what is recommended when adjusting a wdh compared to the older trucks. It is now suggested (varied depending on the manufacture) to only return up to 100% of the lost front axle weight, but not more. To achieve equal drop (or almost equal) you would need to transfer more weight to the front axle than what was lost. Ideally the best way to adjust the wdh is to go visit a local CAT Scale and get actual weights.

Example, all weights are the truck's front axle weight:

Truck only: 3000lbs

Truck and tt, but without wd bars installed: 2600lbs

Truck and tt, with wd bars installed: 3000lbs, or close to it without the front axle weighing more once the wdh is adjusted properly.

When placing the tt on the hitch, the front axle "lost 400lbs". You would only want to return 400lbs back to the front axle, but not more.

Here is a pretty extensive thread about adjusting a wdh: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

If you decide to tow without the wdh, make sure your ball mount and ball are rated high enough for the loaded tw of the tt. For a tt, it is actually suggest to have between 12-15% of the loaded tt weight as tw. This will vary between trailers, but to little of a tw can cause sway. 12% of the gvwr would be ~600lbs.

Does your wdh have the round bars? The type that come out the bottom of the hitch head, and turn 90* back toward the tt? If so, you should have the wd bars close to parallel to the trailer frame, or ever so slightly pointing down if not parallel. If the bars point up make sure they wont hit anything when turning sharply.

Good luck!

revrnd · June 4, 2017

Thanks guys for the tips. Looks like I'll have to remove 1, possibly 2 washers to reposition the WDH bars (round type) parallel to the trailer frame. Currently when the trailer weight is added to the hitch, the bars are sloping 'down' away from the trailer frame.

I'm @ least 2 hours away from the nearest scales, so that's not really a good option. I'm sure I'll be able to get the hitch properly adjusted, it was on the previous trucks.

revrnd · August 24, 2017

In my opinion, you are trying to use a WDH where it is not needed. 10% of 4800 is technically 480#s of tongue weight...that isn't even enough to warrant a WDH on a 2500hd. I carry the tongue weight of my Passport without a WDH and without a single issue, and have slightly more tongue weight that you.

You may need lighter bars...

Sent from my SM-T350 using Tapatalk

I was talking to a friend who has towed travel trailers with trucks for many years (on his 2nd 3/4 ton right now after owning 1/2 tons). Anyways he was thinking the same as you. I did a trailer trip earlier this month to northern Ontario over varying highway conditions w/o the bars installed. I didn't notice anything different while driving. I had taken the bars w/ me if I felt the need to install them.

I don't haul water w/ me, nor a lot of gear other than clothing in the trailer so I'm probably closer to the trailer's empty weight than the GVW. That being said, the owner's manual states that the max tongue weight for my truck w/ either a load carrying or weight distributing hitch is 1500#, so I'm not close to maxing out the tongue weight w/ my TT.

Davidj101 · August 24, 2017

If your hitch has built in sway control, there's the reason you need it.

Looks to me like 5 links is the magic number.

If you tilt the head to make the bars level, then you'll need to adjust that, but getting both front and back to settle the same (or not settle) is the goal.

COHauler · August 25, 2017

I've posted this on the Forest River Forum, but thought some of you guys may have a suggestion or 2.

New TV, a 2017 Chev Silverado HD (regular cab, long box) & the TT is a Rckwood 2106 w/ a GVW of 4875. I seem to be having an issue adjusting it (instructions don't give a lot of 'what ifs')

I didn't have a problem adjusting the WDH when I got my TT back in '09 ('04 Silverado 2500HD), nor in '11 when I checked the measurements when hooked up to my ''11 2500HD.

This truck seems to have thrown a wrench @ me. Sitting on level pavement, these are the measurements I've gotten:

(Hitch ball & coupler set so that TT is level)

Unloaded - Front bumper: 23" Rear bumper: 26"

TV & TT hitched (no bars): Front bumper: 23 3/4" Rear bumper: 24 1/2"

Bars connected:

5 links - Front bumper: 23 1/8" Rear bumper: 26"

6 links - Front bumper: 23 1/4" Rear bumper: 25 1/4"

7 links - Front bumper: 23 5/8" Rear bumper: 25"

This is what the Husky instructions state:

Do I have to 'tip' the head? There is fore & aft aft adjustment, this is only mentioned in the instructions to position the hitch ball vertical or slightly back.

In the case that my instructions may be be 'lacking', can anyone suggestion any online info that may be more comprehensive?

I know 2 fellows in the village that have TTs, but they're both out of town right now. One of them switches TVs about every other year, so I imaging he's had practice setting up his hitch.

TIA

Weight distribution for you is pointless at this point. Sway control is another thing.

I don't use a WDH with my Jeep and 16' equipment flatbed (trailer empty 2900 lbs and Jeep is 5200 lbs) and it pulls great. Now if I put landscaping materials and have the trailer close to 14k lbs, I use the WDH.

Now with my camper, 28' TT (I can't wait to go back to GN trailers) I use my LDH religiously for sway control. Recently I took a little 3000 mile trip in high winds and the hitch did its job in the sway department, that is for sure. I still wore the crap out of the rear axle tires on the trailer though. Oh well, they had 20k miles on them and 4 years old. Time to swap out anyway.

centralmepistol · September 6, 2017

Its been a little bit since your post but...

I found the scale to be super helpful.

I was able to adjust my hitch so that I had little to no change in front height measurement. Using the scale I confirmed that I had the same weight on my steer axel with the trailer (WD engaged) as I did with no trailer hooked up. Seriously, the EXACT same weight... I was surprised but it confirmed my steer axel had the correct weight for proper control.

Jon A · January 30, 2018

As others have mentioned, for this sized trailer and this truck, the OP doesn't really need a WDH at all. But sway control is a good idea for any TT and worth using a hitch with that built in.

On 6/3/2017 at 5:20 AM, Blue2500CC said:

The truck manufactures have changed what is recommended when adjusting a wdh compared to the older trucks. It is now suggested (varied depending on the manufacture) to only return up to 100% of the lost front axle weight, but not more. To achieve equal drop (or almost equal) you would need to transfer more weight to the front axle than what was lost. Ideally the best way to adjust the wdh is to go visit a local CAT Scale and get actual weights.....

....Here is a pretty extensive thread about adjusting a wdh: http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/17730894.cfm

This is a very good subject to bring up for people searching for WDH setup advice. As mentioned, truck manufacturers have done a ton more testing in recent years (largely due to the implementation of J2807). They have clearly found transferring too much "weight" via a WDH makes the truck/trailer combo less safe in many dynamic tests. The thread above is old enough much of its info is now outdated.

For example GM now states to only use 50% Front Axle Load Restoration. Ford says only 25%. While some WDH manufacturers have responsibly updated their instructions, others have not. You still see people giving advice online all the time to transfer more than 100% for a "level truck" or "equal squat." In my opinion, this information has been out there long enough there's really no excuse for that. If the truck's owners' manual is gospel for max trailer weight ratings and such on the one hand, people shouldn't be advising ignoring it for setting up the WDH on the other.