Towing a travel trailer

[CKNSLS]

That's too much trailer for that truck. IMHO-I wouldn't exceed 5,000 pounds dry.

[elchilero53]

When you look at the GVWR on the trailer, it should not exceed 80% of your tow rating. As described earlier, you have to account for all of the payload. The driver and fuel are already taken into account on the payload rating up to a 180 lb. driver. So, if you are a "well rounded individual" like me, you must account for the additional well-roundedness as well. Weigh the truck with yourself and all of the passengers plus what you intend to put in the bed plus the WDH. Subtract the number on the weigh ticket from the Gross Combined Weight Rating. That is the most you can tow. Period. Deduct 15-20% from that final number to get the maximum GVWR of the trailer. That is what you can safely tow with a safety margin. Now if you have a bunch of kids and they want to take all their junk, use THE MOST important word in the English language: NO!!!! Or you could upgrade your truck to a 3500 HD dually. But you still have to the math all over again.

[Blue2500CC]

As described earlier, you have to account for all of the payload. The driver and fuel are already taken into account on the payload rating up to a 180 lb. driver.

I disagree that the driver is already taken into account in the rated payload that is stated in the drivers door jamb. I state this based on the wording on the sticker, which is: "ALL OCCUPANTS and cargo not to exceed XXXX lbs"...... The driver IS an occupant, which means the driver's weight does count toward the stated payload.

 

Now I haven't found one way or another if a full tank of fuel is taken into account for the stated payload or not. Short of emailing the manufactures or nhtsb and asking, its hard to say for sure.

 

BUT, in regards to the TOW RATING, a 150lb driver IS taken into account. And if a newer truck's tow rating that is based on the "standard" that came out a couple years ago, a 150lb driver and a 150lb passenger are taken into account toward the tow rating, but not the vehicles payload rating. Now it is possible the 150lb driver and passenger weight has been upped some for the tow rating, but if it has I haven't heard so.

[Waaazooo]

Just weigh the truck, you know what the gross weight rating is. This isn't that difficult. As long as you weigh the truck with a full tank of gas, you will know if your weight is included and the difference is potential cargo capacity.

 

I don't believe the yellow sticker includes a full tank of gas because the truck is transported with minimal fuel and it's not written on the sticker. My trailer has a similar sticker and it states that it includes full gas tanks.

 

 

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[elchilero53]

Exactly. I asked a tech guy at the GM dealer and he said that there is just enough fuel in the truck to start it, check that everything works properly (gauges, etc.), drive it off the assembly line and onto a scale to get the weight, then to a parking area for loading for shipment. The weights on the door sticker are an average of what the truck weighs off of the assembly line with most of the features for that trim package. They do not adjust for the weight of the driver, but the gas tank is less than 1/4 full. They probably put about 5 gallons of fuel in for testing etc. A gallon of gasoline weighs 6.3 lbs. He told me to go by what is in the Owner's Manual and the door post as Blue2500cc stated when estimating your weights.

 

As waaazoo said, just go weigh the truck and find out for sure. As for the weights on the trailer's yellow sticker, those are supposedly the weight from the factory with propane tanks and a battery. Most people (including me) will tell you NOT to believe that number; take the trailer down and weigh it loaded with what you are going to have when you pull it. I think you will be rudely surprised. As for buying something, I would NOT exceed 5000 lb dry weight on the trailer and 25 ft in length with the 1500; in fact, there are some really nice trailers with great floor plans out there that weigh around 4500 lbs dry that are very towable and really comfortable inside. Some will try to pull a big 32 ft toy hauler with a 1500 equipped with Tow Max, but you are crazy if you try; you will not enjoy the experience. You want to go Glamping, get a 3500 Dually and tow safely. And if your sweet bride wants something that is a clone of your home, tell her NO, unless you can buy that fully tricked out 3500 Silverado to pull that tricked out 5er she wants!

[runsdeep]

Load it all up & have it ready to go camping with all passengers etc, then hit the 3 platform Cat truck scales at a truck stop near you, cost is around 10 bucks. You might be surprised! That was my case with my 1500. I was exceeding my rear axle weight limits.

Make sure your weight dist. hitch is set up properly.

How far do you tow & are there any up/down hills? If so that can make a huge diff.

My TT is a 8600 lb 32' Keystone Laredo, got a new HD 2500 mucho better now. Let us know what you get & find out. Happy camping!........

[elchilero53]

Ok, folks, just got back from the scales. Truck with me and 3/4 tank gasoline came out at 5880 lbs. GVWR on the truck: 7200 lbs. Add the wife, and cats and their stuff with the additional 1/4 tank (6.5 gal @ 6.3 lbs/gal) comes to 6135 lbs passengers + payload. Remaining payload available: 1065.05 lbs. Remaining towing capacity (GCWR: 15,000 lbs) is 8865 lbs. And I STILL haven't added the weight of the hitch assembly (35 lbs, roughly). 10% of 8865 is 886.5 lbs. So the maximum trailer you should tow will have a GVWR of 7978.5 lbs (call it 7978 lbs). And that brings you to break-even weight (no additional cargo in the bed of the truck). Get a 24' or get a new truck so you don't have to tell your wife "cowgirl up, dear" when she complains about the lack of space or the trailer being too small.

[COHauler]

When anyone has to start questioning whether the 150 lb driver is included in the GVWR math, that alone should tell you something.

 

This camping season in CO, I have seen two TT on the side, yard sale everywhere due to people towing larger campers with 1/2 ton trucks. As much as it pains me to say, both were GM tow vehicles (which doesn't mean crap, just an observation).

 

As others have stated, where you tow makes a big difference. My Keystone Outback 280RS is supposed to be ~6600 lbs (actual weight is 7200 empty), and I was well within my weight ratings for a Tundra.

 

 

This blew ass. When you finally got to your destination, it was sleep time. We were just wore out. Stopping for gas every 120-150 miles was awesome as well. We did 5000 miles like this and my wife whom tows 50% of the time threw in the towel first.

 

We knew what needed to be done. Haven't looked back since.

 

 

[FreeAmerican]

When anyone has to start questioning whether the 150 lb driver is included in the GVWR math, that alone should tell you something.

 

This camping season in CO, I have seen two TT on the side, yard sale everywhere due to people towing larger campers with 1/2 ton trucks. As much as it pains me to say, both were GM tow vehicles (which doesn't mean crap, just an observation).

 

As others have stated, where you tow makes a big difference. My Keystone Outback 280RS is supposed to be ~6600 lbs (actual weight is 7200 empty), and I was well within my weight ratings for a Tundra.

 

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This blew ass. When you finally got to your destination, it was sleep time. We were just wore out. Stopping for gas every 120-150 miles was awesome as well. We did 5000 miles like this and my wife whom tows 50% of the time threw in the towel first.

 

We knew what needed to be done. Haven't looked back since.

 

 

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I went through the same thing, can't agree more!

 

Towing to a state park 30 -40 miles away on gentle 2 lane was no problem with my half tone. Busy interstate, mountains, long hauls.

 

I get where I am going now and I don't feel like I've have been beaten up.

[COHauler]

I went through the same thing, can't agree more!

 

Towing to a state park 30 -40 miles away on gentle 2 lane was no problem with my half tone. Busy interstate, mountains, long hauls.

 

I get where I am going now and I don't feel like I've have been beaten up.

Yep....you know that feeling.

 

I have always owned diesels, 3/4 or 1 tons, and drank the cool-aid and purchased a Tundra. Bad ass trucks, and tow well, but just asking to much for a 1/2 ton truck.

 

Now, we just set the cruise control, tow haul mode, exhaust brake on and go. I have been over every major pass in CO with ease. Our next trip with this truck/trailer will take us over ID, MT, and UT passes for 2500 miles. This will be a great trip this time with a properly set up truck/trailer combo.

[CRTurboGuy]

I recently went through this same exercise - found a camper we liked, thought it was well within the limits of the truck, so we bought it. On the way home, I hit a CAT triple scale, only to find out that with a full tank of gas and a semi-stocked camper, but no family or other gear, I was right at the max GCWR. Stepped up to the 2500HD, night and day difference.

 

--JOsh

[runsdeep]

I recently went through this same exercise - found a camper we liked, thought it was well within the limits of the truck, so we bought it. On the way home, I hit a CAT triple scale, only to find out that with a full tank of gas and a semi-stocked camper, but no family or other gear, I was right at the max GCWR. Stepped up to the 2500HD, night and day difference.

 

--JOsh

^^ Yep same here. Not only with the HD towing cap. you get bigger brakes, cooling, bigger frame & on & on...oh, & you don't get butt puckered when a big rig blows by you hauling arse! just sayin'

[COHauler]

I just towed from CO, to ID, then MT, then ND and back to CO.

 

Surprisingly, the hardest towing was from Montana to North Dakota. The wind was 30-40 mph head/side wind and made the DM work hard trying to maintain 65 mph. 10.3 mpg was the best.

 

My old 1/2 ton would have been 45 mph, 5 mpg.

[Gearhead1000]

So I am the guy pulling 10k with my 1/2 ton. I had to upgrade the shocks and put air bags on but I did that with my old dmax too. My rear axle is 300# over the door plate loaded. I called AMM and I am not worried about it they test their axles at way more than that for way longer than I will ever travel with my trailer attached. I agree that 3/4 ton gives more pay load but my old dmax only had a 500# higher payload than this new 1/2 ton. And the brake rotors are bigger on my 1/2 ton than my 06 dmax. I am an old guy and don't pile in 4 people plus both quads and tons of fuel etc. I usually have 1 passenger and load most of the gear in the trailer. I set the trailer brakes properly and have had no issues towing. Granted the towing numbers GM throws out are big compared to my old 1980 heavy half which I would never put in front of my trailer by this 16 is impressive and I pulled 5k miles this year. And I have 2, 500,000 km of driving exp and have pulled trailers for 25+ years. I am no expert but I got some real life exp. By all means get what you will be comfortable with heck there are so many options out there at similar price points. For every scenario. I prefer the 1/2 ton ride and fuel economy. And I know how to drive according to the road conditions and what I am hauling. And so do most reasonable people. Happy trails!

[2017HD]

You need to watch several things at once when towing a trailer starting with CGWR - the combination gross weight rating - this is the maximum your truck and trailer can weigh. Next is the GVWR - gross vehicle weight rating - this is the most your truck or trailer can weigh. GAWR - gross axle weight rating - the most your axles will support. These are listed in the order of importance and none of them can be exceeded. Ignore the "tow rating" instead I start with the CGWR as being the GVWR of the truck and trailer added together. As long as the sum of the two GVWRs is around the CGWR the combination is worth running the rest of the numbers to insure that the rig will not be overloaded.

 

Another way to look at this is to look at your actual reserve payload (after you have deducted passengers and cargo) and using that as your max tongue wt. Now subtract at least 100 lbs (for batteries and LPG usually not included in the dry tongue wt) and look for a trailer with a tongue wt of that or less.

 

Finally there is the rule of thumb that simply de-rates the either the tow rating or CGWR by a percentage - usually 2025% off the rating (or 75-80% of the weight rating).

 

Just remember you are dealing with two sets of sales and marketing people that love to make up numbers. The trailer folks want to make their units lighter and truck mfgs want to make you think they can tow a mountain.