2014-2017: DL8, DL3, Towing Mirror Upgrade – Mirrors Explained

[nick_99chevy]

Nick,

THANK YOU very much for diving into this and finding the issue! With your permission, I’d like to share your photos with the manufacture in hopes they can quickly make a revision change. Obviously, it’ll take a while before this update can happen, but better sooner than later, and thanks to you, we can share this with the manufacture.

I have had open dialogue with the manufacture and have provided feedback like this so that they can improve.

Many thanks again!




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[nick_99chevy]

@nick_99chevy

Can you also confirm that all functionality like power adjust, power fold, memory features, and all lighting features are completely restored and functional with this fix?

Thanks,

Phil


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Your can send them all the pictures they need to fix this issue…everything is working like it should park lamps, signal, memory, heat,all power fold and unfold, puddle light. It’s not hard to repair as now we know what the issue is. Remove upper and lower glass, remove 4 screws for cover that houses cargo/reverse light, then cut the wire tire that secures mirror harness between the 2 mirrors, unwrap the tape and then you will see the butt connector with blue wires. Cut it out and use your multimeter and go to pin 1 on connector with one lead and find your marker light wire checking for continuity join that wire to the end that goes to marker light( you will see it going to marker light) then join the other wire together. The other wire is pin 4 then it all should work like it should


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[Lfod1836]

2 minutes ago, nick_99chevy said:

Remove upper and lower glass

How did you remove the upper glass without breaking it??

[nick_99chevy]

Their is lots of videos online to remove glass, I took convex mirror off first by moving it down and get your fingers behind it and pull. It’s tight but came off with no damage. Same with upper glass move it so you get you fingers behind it and pull. Unhook heat wiring and your good to go…I removed everything and put back together with no damage


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[nick_99chevy]

Great find!!!  What in the world what the purpose for that splice??

They must of made a mistake building the mirrors


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[newbcakes]

To all and the OP - thanks for this treasure trove of information.  Before I spend what is going to end up being a lot of money, I'm trying to become as educated as possible.

 

I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 (LTZ), with the DL3 mirrors.  I'm looking to maintain as much as the OE functionality as possible with a DL3 to DQS upgrade.  Based on what I've read here, I'll either need to manually modify a wiring harness or purchase new harnesses already configured?  I'm not opposed to aftermarket mirrors, but I cannot get a good gauge on quality.  I think I'd rather hit the easy button and buy the harnesses.

 

From what I can tell...

If I upgrade to DQS and want to keep the memory seat functionality I'll need to have the BCM flashed.

I will need a modified wiring harness to enable all functionality.

 

Question:  Is the truck wired to feed the modified wiring harness?  e.g., when I plug the modified wiring harness into the truck body (effectively connecting the door components to the truck), is the truck set up to push power to the right places already?

 

Would you recommend specific parts for me to purchase?

 

Thanks much for your time.

[pgamboa]

46 minutes ago, newbcakes said:

To all and the OP - thanks for this treasure trove of information.  Before I spend what is going to end up being a lot of money, I'm trying to become as educated as possible.

 

Appreciate you taking to time to become as education as possible and trying to understand all that is involved in this upgrade.  I'd be the same if I were to invest this amount of $ on this upgrade.  Last thing I would hate is to go through all this and not achieve the desired result.

 

I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 (LTZ), with the DL3 mirrors.  I'm looking to maintain as much as the OE functionality as possible with a DL3 to DQS upgrade.  Based on what I've read here, I'll either need to manually modify a wiring harness or purchase new harnesses already configured?  I'm not opposed to aftermarket mirrors, but I cannot get a good gauge on quality.  I think I'd rather hit the easy button and buy the harnesses.

 

Correct.  Your factory harness will not have the provisions to accommodate the tow mirror lighting circuits.  My DIY Kit will come with everything needed to modify your stock harnesses.  If you prefer to go with a completed harness set (by me), I have that to offer as well.  $65 for the DIY, $285 for the complete harnesses.  This includes shipping anywhere in the US.  The complete harness set has $100 core charge built into the price which I refund when you send me your stock harnesses back.  As for mirrors, I have direct contact with a GM Supplier that can me and my customer referrals DQS Mirrors at a great shipped price.  If you prefer aftermarket, the only set I USED to recommend is from 1A Auto.  Part # 1AMRP01786.  But due to recent wiring issues discovered in the last 3 weeks, they are internally wired incorrectly.  It's a simple fix, but not one I can suggest, especially if you're paying $700 for the set.  One member already broke the glass trying to apply the fix.

 

From what I can tell...

If I upgrade to DQS and want to keep the memory seat functionality I'll need to have the BCM flashed.

I will need a modified wiring harness to enable all functionality.

 

I have only had 2 cases so far (of the 500+ I've helped) where a BCM and/or Seat Memory Module Calibration might be required.  This was an odd build truck.  Both are 2015 - 2500 HD Trucks with Seat Memory but had the 1st Gen DPN Tow Mirrors.  Most trucks with Seat Memory already have existing Power Folding DL3 Mirrors.  Theirs don't.  So their issue is that the passenger side doesn't respond to the fold in/out command while the driver side does.

 

 

Question:  Is the truck wired to feed the modified wiring harness?  e.g., when I plug the modified wiring harness into the truck body (effectively connecting the door components to the truck), is the truck set up to push power to the right places already?

 

Since you're 2014, you will need the additional RZY Jumper Harness.  GM didn't land the Tow Mirror Light circuits at the door jamb (Cabin Side) connector for all 2014 and some early 2015 trucks.  See the 1st post for this detail.

 

Would you recommend specific parts for me to purchase?

 

I have a referral for DQS Mirrors if you need it.  PM me for more info on that.  For harnesses, I custom build these to order based on your truck, year, trim, and desired mirrors you decide on.

 

Thanks much for your time.

 

My Pleasure!  Look forward to working with you.  Let me know if you have any additional questions.

 

[newbcakes]

Thanks, sent PM!

Edited March 25, 2018 by newbcakes
typo

[awl_bidness]

On 3/24/2018 at 8:11 AM, nick_99chevy said:

Their is lots of videos online to remove glass, I took convex mirror off first by moving it down and get your fingers behind it and pull. It’s tight but came off with no damage. Same with upper glass move it so you get you fingers behind it and pull. Unhook heat wiring and your good to go…I removed everything and put back together with no damage


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After nick_99chevy identified that pin #1 and pin #4 were intentionally clamped together (inside a taped wire run no less), I followed his lead and dismantled my LH mirror to make the fix.  I found exactly the same issue and applied the same fix.  My truck is a 2016 1500 LTZ with seat memory.  Now everything works as it should and no more blown LH park lamp fuses.  Photo's would be redundant because nick_99chevy posted great ones.  I managed to make the repair without damaging anything.

 

Thanks again to nick_99chevy for finding the problem because I have been chasing this for a while. 

 

After the first set of mirrors from amauto appeared to have a short in the LH mirror, I contacted customer service and they insisted the reason the mirrors didn't work was because the set I ordered "worked with RPO code K40 (diesel)".  This was a ridiculous argument because the K40 option is simply a replacement lower cap with the temp sensor for the RH mirror.  The replacement cap with the sensor was shipped with this set, but not installed.  In other words, they would work for a diesel if you replaced the RH mirror lower cap with the sensor.  

 

The second set from amauto did not come with the K40 option and had the exact same issue.....blows the LH park lamp fuse until I applied the nick fix.

 

I like the mirrors and now that the adventure is over I am glad I have them.  However, customer service does not know what they are doing and as a result I am out $63 to insure and return the fist set of mirrors because they claim I ordered the wrong ones.  Hopefully PGAMBOA's discussions with the manufacturer will eventually clear up this mystery, but if you have seat memory be advised you will likely have to dismantle and repair the LH mirror wiring and void the warranty.

 

 

[pgamboa]

***1A Auto 1AMRP01786 UPDATE***

Folks,

In several email exchanges with the Manufacture of these mirrors and the photos provided by@nick_99chevy, they have confirmed that there is a manufacture issue on these mirrors.

They are looking into this issue to determine:

-How it happened?
-How many customers are affected?
-Communication to their vendors (1A Auto & AM Auto)

They are also standing by their product and have advised me to inform all of my customers and anyone else who has purchased these mirrors that they will stand behind the product and address the issue. They have not provided me any logistics on how they will replace any of the defective mirrors since they are the manufacturer and work exclusively with the vendors, ie; 1A Auto / AM Auto.

I am also tagging @1ATony for visibility.

Tony - During the last several weeks, a number of customers who have purchased these mirrors, specifically, part # 1AMRP01786 and any equivalent mirror that supports Memory, is experiencing an issue with the Driver’s Side Mirror. The issue is that the driver side running Lamp (fuse #29 - under the hood) is blowing its 15amp fuse when the mirror is installed as instructed.
@Nick_99chevy discovered two wires that were tied together inside the mirror, causing a short and blowing the fuse. After separating these circuits, the issue is no longer persist and the mirrors functions as expected.

I have had a couple of my customers who tried to implement the fix but ended up breaking the lower glass. I also have another customer who told their warranty was void because they ordered the wrong mirror for their truck and another customer who had to pay $70 to insure and return the 1st defective mirror.

I have advised ALL members against ordering any mirrors from 1A Auto / AM Auto until this issue is rectified.

Please advise how you can address those customers who have already made the purchase, are out paying return shipping fees as instructed by your CS, and/or have broken the glass as a result of this manufacturing error. Their phone calls into 1A Auto Customer Service are leading no where as they are not aware of the issue.

Please see screen shot below from the Manufacture.

I’d be glad to provide you a list of my customers who have made a purchase per my recommendation.






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Edited March 26, 2018 by pgamboa

[Lfod1836]

I'll be more than happy to open up mine and seperate the wires for further verification.

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Edited March 26, 2018 by Lfod1836

[nick_99chevy]

I'll be more than happy to open up mine and seperate the wires for further verification.

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Quick check would be to check continuity between pin # 1 and pin #4 on mirror connector, if there is then that means blue wires are connected inside mirror harness. Them mirror needs to be taken apart to cut that out and connect them separately.


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[pgamboa]

Quick check would be to check continuity between pin # 1 and pin #4 on mirror connector, if there is then that means blue wires are connected inside mirror harness. Them mirror needs to be taken apart to cut that out and connect them separately. 

 

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Just to clarify...Out of the box, the disconnected Blue Wire is the Running Lamp Wire.  It is not loaded onto Pin 1 out of the box.  So it'll be this wire and Pin #3 (which is the Driver Mirror Position Low Reference) that are tied together.  It becomes Pin 1 when you land in according to my instructions (which is the factory slot location).   Thanks,

 

Phil

 

 

 

[Lfod1836]

5 hours ago, nick_99chevy said:

Quick check would be to check continuity between pin # 1 and pin #4 on mirror connector, if there is then that means blue wires are connected inside mirror harness. Them mirror needs to be taken apart to cut that out and connect them separately.

 

Both wires were crimped together, separated wires soldered and all functions on both mirrors are working perfectly.

 

 

 

Edited March 26, 2018 by Lfod1836
Add Pics

[Lfod1836]

On ‎3‎/‎24‎/‎2018 at 7:33 AM, Lfod1836 said:

Hello,

Mirrors should be replaced with an "option for option" fashion. If your mirrors do not have the same options that are listed in our listing, your driver side mirror has auto dimming and is the cause of the shortage you are describing. These are electrical parts and once installed are not returnable for a refund. While the passenger side is still under warranty the driver side warranty is now null and void. Please let us know if you have further questions.

 

 

So now that the conundrum has been solved I would hope that this statement from 1A-Auto would now be "NULL AND VOID"!!

 

Brad