What does my truck need to tow a travel trailer?

sdeeter19555 · February 17, 2017

Thank you for the explanation. There certainly is a variety of construction techniques! There is also the molded fiberglass variety which I find interesting. I am finding the selection process quite difficult. One salesman will have you sold on the construction quality of their particular travel trailer only to be shot down by a competitor's product! It is much more difficult than choosing between brands of trucks!

Yeah, it's a stupid comment...they are light because of their construction materials, not because they are substandard. My Passport has an aluminum skeleton, fiberglass laminate sides, and a full c-channel frame built by BAL. Construction you don't find in some "high end" heavy campers...

Most heavy campers are heavy because they are designed poorly or laid out poorly IMO, especially with today's modern materials. Heavy materials are cheap...doesn't mean they are any better.

With a lot of the market targeting the SUV and 1500 pickups, ultra lite campers are quite popular and the market is answering with good quality units.

It's like anything else, got to research, research, research. Some of the biggest piles of garbage on the road are those big heavy campers of name brands.

2017HD · February 17, 2017

I was simply relating my real world experience with lightweight TTs. The units with the alum frame around the outside of the wall are still out there. I am not saying that the Passport is built that way - but I bet it is.

I am looking at a unit similar to the 2520RL built by Outdoor RV their model 25RDS. The 2520 has a build wt of just under 5000lbs vs 7000lbs for the 25RDS. Most companies use similar stoves, microwaves, countertops etc so the wt difference should not be that different.

I do have some ideas on where the 2000lbs difference comes from - 2" thick wall alum framing. Both welded and screw construction. Wood inserts behind the screws for added strength. Full framing around windows and doors. Fully framed slide. 6" C channel frame with outriggers. Custom built slide rails. The ceiling and floor have a layer of astrofoil and R14 fiberglass batt insulation. That really does not add weight. Thermopane windows. 16" wheels and HD tires. And standard ducted AC. All modern materials just more of them and bigger.

My current TT is a 24' Arctic Fox that was built in the fall of 04 (I bought it in the summer of 05) it's loaded wt for camping is just under 6000 lbs (the brochure wt has it at 4885). It has a 4" C frame with a full wood framed wall with fiberglass glued to the studs. This TT is still doing fine after 12 years (we now want something a bit bigger as we begin to travel for longer periods of time. Otherwise we would probably keep it.

I think we have also gotten off topic as the original poster was asking more about his truck than the TT.

May I suggest that the OP do some lurking at irv2.com a very friendly site for RV and TV discussions - all types and sizes.

onecrazyfoo4u · February 17, 2017

It's all good info and I'm glad to learn it!

For the weight distribution hitch it sounds like the best one to go with is the equalizer brand? Would everyone else agree?

And for the brake controller it looks like Tekonsha 90195 P3 is one of the more popular ones sold on amazon. Would you all agree?

I haven't heard any input on airbags. Does nobody use them in the rear?

onecrazyfoo4u · February 24, 2017

So I got my Teckonsha P3 and harness to hook it up. The trailer I bought comes with an equalizer brand hitch.

What about airbags, do I need those in the rear?

2017HD · February 25, 2017

Both the P3 and the equalizer hitch are great products. I have never used airbags, or any other "spring helper" I have found that when the WD hitch is doing it's job correctly you don't need them.

XSKIER · February 25, 2017

Am I the only one thinking that onecrazyfoo should leave $2000- $3000 in the budget for a 4L70e trans and transfer case saver? A high milage 4L60e trans won't pull even a 3000 pound trailer very far.