What does my truck need to tow a travel trailer?

onecrazyfoo4u · February 15, 2017

I've got an 05 GMC 1500 4x4 quad cab short bed auto with the 5.3l motor. Truck is all stock, with stock size tires and no lift. Have about 145k miles on it now. Recently have changed coolant, front/rear diff fluids, transfer case, oil. Battery is a few years old. We are shopping for a travel trailer. Looking for used with a $14k budget or so. Criteria is a 25-29ft camper with a slide. The style we like is the queen bed up front, with the 2-4 bunks in back (we have 3 small kids). Most of the trailers are around 4500-5500 lbs dry. My truck sticker/hitch says 7,500lb gross towing capacity.

We plan to take it out 1-2 times a month, just for short 3-4 day trips. Maybe a few mountain passes, but nothing extreme. Probably won't need a generator since they are short trips. May get a solar panel in case the batteries run out. Here's what I plan to do to get my truck ready:

- Change out transmission fluid and filter (I don't have a tranny temp gauge though)

- Change brake pads/rotors

- Install a brake controller (currently don't have one, what's a good one to get?)

- Change out shocks and struts with yellow bilsteins sitting in my garage

- Tires are fairly new and good condition

I've towed occasionally, but have never owned or towed a camper. What else does my truck need to be tow ready? Do I need airbags in the rear? What style of hitch receiver/ball do you recommend? Do I need an equalizer hitch setup? Seems like some campers come with them already... What else am I missing to be prepared for camping season?

I'm a newb in this department, so please educate me! Thanks a bunch!

Coby7 · February 15, 2017

You will definitely need a ball hitch. lol

gmckenzie · February 15, 2017

You may not like my answer. Ignore the trailer weight for a little bit. Look at the payload rating on your specific truck (should be on the door jam on a yellow sticker). Then take your truck as it would be loaded up for a trip over a scale (all kids, wife, dog, etc.) and see how much of the payload you have left.

Deduct 100 lbs for a decent equalizer hitch (yes you will need it).

What remains is what you can carry as tongue weight. This will be 10-15% of the trailer weight. Assume 12.5%.

Guessing you will have ~ 750 lbs left over (but this is a pure guess, it could be less). That would mean a max trailer weight of 6000 FULLY LOADED. Ignore the dry weight of the trailers as those numbers are irrelevant. Also ignore the dry tongue weight as per the specs are those are pure fantasy once propane and batteries are installed.

My guess is you will be limited to 4500 dry weight and still stay under your payload.

cpttimerestraint · February 16, 2017

My trailer has electronic brakes so I needed a brake controller. Some trailers have surge brakes. Does your truck have to tow package which changes the shifting pattern? With that much weight, I would definitely suggest it.

There are some cool lite weight trailers out there. We went to an rv show so we could see a lot of different options.

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diyer2 · February 16, 2017

I hope you have changed the coolant, trans and transfer case fluids before the 145k miles or I would be concerned about reliability due to a lack of maintenance when you start towing. How about oil changes? Did you follow the maintenance schedule for these items?

2017HD · February 16, 2017

Very few TTs have surge brakes - most have electric - look for a Prodigy they are probably the best of the inertia style controllers.

You will also need a good WD hitch Reese, Equalizer, Ea Z Lift. The hitch bars should be big enough to handle the tongue weight and all the gear in the truck - probably a 1000 lb rating (it is OK to be larger, but not smaller).

I agree that you should look at TTs in the 4000-4500 dry wt. I agree that bunks are nice for kids, but don't overlook other sleeping options. Also on the subject of lightweight TTs they are light for a reason - they are not well built - so don't expect them to hold up to much abuse. Also you are not going to be the fastest thing on the road or on hills.

On your truck - if you don't have one from the factory - get a transmission cooler.

Use Tow/Haul mode to keep the transmission out of OD.

onecrazyfoo4u · February 16, 2017

I've weighed is all before with some luggage and it was at 6100 lbs. So I've got 900 lbs of tongue weight available. Going off that we should be fine for a 5000lb dry, 6500lb gross trailer, right?

It's had all regular maintenance for the fluids, just the tranny I need to take care of now.

It would be electric brakes, I'll look into the prodigy controllers. Thanks!

We won't be taking the trailer far, 100 to 200 miles away max just for weekend trips. Very little off road. So it'll be easy roads for the truck and trailer.

Do you guys still think I need an equalizer hitch? Are equalizer and weight distribution the same thing? They all seem kind of pricey.

I noticed on my hitch it says 5000lb max or 12000lb max for weight distribution hitch. The manual says 7400lb max for my model of truck. Which rating should I go off of? I can't imagine 5000lb would be the max...

2017HD · February 16, 2017

5000 lbs is without a Weight Distribution hitch, 12,000 is with one That is what the hitch is rated for not the truck. Please don't forget that that 7400lbs was determined with a stripped down truck and a 150lb driver and nothing else in the truck. Someone else said that you need to subtract the weight of you family and any extras that are going to be in the truck.

Yes you will appreciate a WD hitch - equalizer is also a brand name. I have EAZ Lift that is about 11 yrs old, I paid around 300.00 for it. You don't need a real fancy one - Reese is a good brand that is not too much $$

Most of my camping has been within 100mi of home - I know that this feels like a short distance but if you are in white knuckle mode because your truck and TT are overloaded it will seem like 1000 miles.

Donstar · February 16, 2017

Also on the subject of lightweight TTs they are light for a reason - they are not well built - so don't expect them to hold up to much abuse.

I am interested in this comment as I'm currently looking at lightweight trailers. I am finding that they are comparatively more expensive. This is often attributed to their build quality and construction. They often have welded aluminum framing and rigid foam insulation. This is much lighter but more costly than traditional wood frame construction. Arguably you can get poor build quality with both, depending on manufacturer, but I prefer the idea of aluminum framing in my travel trailer. I personally think the lightweights have the potential to take more "abuse".

onecrazyfoo4u · February 16, 2017

I guess I'll need to start looking at WD hitches then! I don't want to be limited to 5000lb from my hitch without one.

Do you guys run or recommend using airbags in the rear? Or is that only if you have a sagging problem? I doubt there will be much sag with new stiffer shocks and an equalizer hitch setup.

Donstar · February 16, 2017

I guess I'll need to start looking at WD hitches then! I don't want to be limited to 5000lb from my hitch without one.

Do you guys run or recommend using airbags in the rear? Or is that only if you have a sagging problem? I doubt there will be much sag with new stiffer shocks and an equalizer hitch setup.

The "rule of thumb" I heard is that when the trailer weight is over 50% of the weight of the tow vehicle, you need a WD hitch. I also understand that a WD and stabilizer combination is the preferred hitch.

cpttimerestraint · February 16, 2017

Take a look at the Riverside retro trailers. They look cool and are pretty light weight. Build quality seemed on Par with other trailers. Also look at the starcraft trailers.

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2017HD · February 16, 2017

OK I have been asked to explain my comment about lightweight TTs. Yes I have owned two lightweight TTs one was a wood framed alum skinned unit that provided great service for 12yrs. The second was an alum framed (and I use that term loosely) fiberglass skinned unit that very quickly fell apart in the first three years of use. It turns out that the alum frame was a simple 1" square thin wall tubing that ran around the outside edge of the wall. On the front and rear they ran a couple of tubes across to support the front and rear walls. So yes they can claim alum framed but the real structure is luan, foam, and fiberglass - I have seen this technique used on 26' units. Also the inside components are made of thinner wood and have lighter foam cushions etc.

I realize that in the past few years that laminating techniques have improved and most are built in climate controlled buildings so the glue cures properly. I have also seen where an alum frame unit was actually heavier than the same unit built with wood. These units had actual alum framing with wood inside all joints to insure the screws had something to bite into.

I have now noticed a slew of 1/2 Ton towable instead of lightweight banners. These units are often built with a little bit better construction and are heavier than a true lightweight mainly because the newer 1/2 Ton trucks can tow heavier TTs.

So to sum it up you need to look carefully at the construction as well as the quality of that construction. Know that there are several densities of Styrofoam that affect both the wt and insulation properties of the material. 1/8" thick plywood and 3" cushions with 1/2" framing is lightweight, but flimsy.

Higher end alum framed TTs have full alum frames with real studs and framing around windows and anywhere there is going to be something attached to the wall. Just like well built wood framed units.

Hoginedgewood · February 16, 2017

I would suggest practice pulling a trailer before you fight through traffic, and practice backing. nothing worse than denting the truck or trailer on the maiden voyage. I don't mean any insult to you but some people who have never backed a trailer wait till the worst time to learn. Who ever is riding shotgun should be quite willing to get out when the vehicle is moving backwards. also both should be familiar with hand signals. also practice in the dark.

Donstar · February 16, 2017

OK I have been asked to explain my comment about lightweight TTs. Yes I have owned two lightweight TTs one was a wood framed alum skinned unit that provided great service for 12yrs. The second was an alum framed (and I use that term loosely) fiberglass skinned unit that very quickly fell apart in the first three years of use. It turns out that the alum frame was a simple 1" square thin wall tubing that ran around the outside edge of the wall. On the front and rear they ran a couple of tubes across to support the front and rear walls. So yes they can claim alum framed but the real structure is luan, foam, and fiberglass - I have seen this technique used on 26' units. Also the inside components are made of thinner wood and have lighter foam cushions etc.

I realize that in the past few years that laminating techniques have improved and most are built in climate controlled buildings so the glue cures properly. I have also seen where an alum frame unit was actually heavier than the same unit built with wood. These units had actual alum framing with wood inside all joints to insure the screws had something to bite into.

I have now noticed a slew of 1/2 Ton towable instead of lightweight banners. These units are often built with a little bit better construction and are heavier than a true lightweight mainly because the newer 1/2 Ton trucks can tow heavier TTs.

So to sum it up you need to look carefully at the construction as well as the quality of that construction. Know that there are several densities of Styrofoam that affect both the wt and insulation properties of the material. 1/8" thick plywood and 3" cushions with 1/2" framing is lightweight, but flimsy.

Higher end alum framed TTs have full alum frames with real studs and framing around windows and anywhere there is going to be something attached to the wall. Just like well built wood framed units.

Thank you for the explanation. There certainly is a variety of construction techniques! There is also the molded fiberglass variety which I find interesting. I am finding the selection process quite difficult. One salesman will have you sold on the construction quality of their particular travel trailer only to be shot down by a competitor's product! It is much more difficult than choosing between brands of trucks!