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UPR Catch Can Plug N Play with CSS Installed


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ATX,

 

I'm running a LIMITED TIME special offer for $349.99 shipped in the US. Let me know when your ready and I will be able to set you up as this is a GM-Trucks Exclusive Offer. You will have to PM direct me to get this limited time offer for a Full Plug n Play™ UPR Dual Valve Catch Can with Clean Side Separator. This offer is also for the 6.2L guys as well and we now even have upgraded kits for the guys with Aftermarket Cold Air Intakes.

 

Joe

 

 

Is this offer still good? Does it include the upgraded check valves?

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Is this offer still good? Does it include the upgraded check valves?

Yes, it's still good for the complete package with the UPR Pro-Series™ Check Valves.

 

Just PM and when you're ready.

 

Joe

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Just wanted to add this for the guys with the 6.2L trucks that have any installation questions or hose routing questions. We have everything you need to be able to

upgrade the UPR Catch Can Systems to fit with all aftermarket intakes and maintain the best possible OEM look from fit to finish.

 

This goes for all 5.3L and 6.2L applications. For any custom applications or special pricing feel free to email me at catchcanstore at gmail

 

Thank you, Joe

 

 

UPR%2062%20GM%20Truck%20Catch%20Can%20Ho

 

Joe, on the passenger side WOT line from the CC. How are you not getting a vacuum issue?

 

I thought CSS should be hooked to both connections on the stock airbox, during my testing I found it doesn't work well at times it even created suction noise.

 

I wanted to bounce another idea off you as well, since its more efficient to cool a vapor back to liquid by using the CC as a A/C condenser how come so many kits are position next to the exhaust or in the engine bay with lots of heat, I been trying to find better location near the grill to allow air to cool while driving, to improve catching more oil, you're thoughts please?

Edited by camcamaro1991
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Joe, on the passenger side WOT line from the CC. How are you not getting a vacuum issue?

 

I thought CSS should be hooked to both connections on the stock airbox, during my testing I found it doesn't work well at times it even created suction noise.

 

I wanted to bounce another idea off you as well, since its more efficient to cool a vapor back to liquid by using the CC as a A/C condenser how come so many kits are position next to the exhaust or in the engine bay with lots of heat, I been trying to find better location near the grill to allow air to cool while driving, to improve catching more oil, you're thoughts please

 

1. The vacuum issue is something you might experience at idle and goes away when your throttle blade is open.This is perfectly normal and our system will close the WOT check valve at idle from the stronger primary vacuum and then it will open once the vehicle is under load.

 

2. The CSS only requires one fresh air in source and the flow needs to be bi-directional for the fresh air entry point of the PCV system. You don't want conflicting vacuum sources at both ends of the PCV system.

 

3. Cooler vapor is an easier way for inefficient catch cans to condense oil vapors. Our system was designed to coalesce the oil in hot or cold with all the stages and chambers and custom stainless filters - screens that are installed in the diffuser tube and the bottom of the diffuser shield. The cooler the location results in a ton of unwanted condensation and moisture and requires a lot of useless maintenance and time wasting.

 

Just a quick bit of info for everyone to understand the higher end more complex mutli-stage, multi-chamber system's better.

 

Joe

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  • 3 weeks later...

I can see it coming so I plan to remove the catch can for my last free oil change. All the rest from that point will completed by me.

 

Has anyone had problems with the "lube tech" at the dealership having no clue how to remove the CSS in order to add oil?

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I can see it coming so I plan to remove the catch can for my last free oil change. All the rest from that point will completed by me.

 

 

 

Remove the whole works or just the CSS portion? Returning it to a configuration of just the catch can would be easy enough but then what to do with the WOT outlet?

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Has anyone had problems with the "lube tech" at the dealership having no clue how to remove the CSS in order to add oil?

This is a valid question, and I was also concerned about this. I was at the dealer a few weeks ago for some service including oil change, and I assume they had no problems. I waited at the dealership while the service was being done and they said absolutely nothing to me about it. I figured if there was any type of problem they would of came out to the waiting area and questioned me about it. They did not.

I guess in reality how hard can it be with the quick release fittings? I mean, it's the original stock type fittings that already exist.

Another note, when service was completed I popped the hood to make sure everything was back to the way I had it and was originally. And it was. No problems and everything was just Hunky Dory.

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Honestly I am going to remove the entire system.

 

My dealer just gets confused and asks lots of questions when they see something different. Already had a ball when they saw my SLT Sierra with a Denali gauge cluster.. boy that was fun. Nothing came of that but it sure was a waste of my time.

 

 

 

Remove the whole works or just the CSS portion? Returning it to a configuration of just the catch can would be easy enough but then what to do with the WOT outlet?

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Honestly I am going to remove the entire system.

 

My dealer just gets confused and asks lots of questions when they see something different. Already had a ball when they saw my SLT Sierra with a Denali gauge cluster.. boy that was fun. Nothing came of that but it sure was a waste of my time.

 

 

After first installing it, I thought about removing it also when it needed to go in for service. Then after time passed I thought, screw that !! I'm not taking this thing off and putting it back on every time it has to go to the dealer for any problem or service.

So I decided not to , and take a few minutes and educate them on what it was, and what it does on the first visit if needed.

Life is to short to be worried about every little thing or problem, every single day. I have more important worrys in my life that take priority over a aftermarket catch can.

It would only take a few minutes to explain to them, or even show them what they need to know or do. Far easier to take the time explain it to them, than to remove and reinstall on every trip to the dealer.

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Honestly I just don't even want to begin to deal with it.

 

I'll take the whole 10 minutes to remove it and another 10 to put it back.

 

Now I thought UPR had created something to make it easier to fill the engine oil with the CSS installed but never saw anything.

 

After first installing it, I thought about removing it also when it needed to go in for service. Then after time passed I thought, screw that !! I'm not taking this thing off and putting it back on every time it has to go to the dealer for any problem or service.
So I decided not to , and take a few minutes and educate them on what it was, and what it does on the first visit if needed.
Life is to short to be worried about every little thing or problem, every single day. I have more important worrys in my life that take priority over a aftermarket catch can.
It would only take a few minutes to explain to them, or even show them what they need to know or do. Far easier to take the time explain it to them, than to remove and reinstall on every trip to the dealer.

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Honestly I just don't even want to begin to deal with it.

 

I'll take the whole 10 minutes to remove it and another 10 to put it back.

 

Now I thought UPR had created something to make it easier to fill the engine oil with the CSS installed but never saw anything.

 

I understand, and It's certainly your prerogative to do so if you wish.

 

As far as filling it with oil, I don't think it's really that hard to do. You push the fitting in on the clamp, and remove the hose from the CSS, use a crescent wrench if needed and remove the CSS from the valve cover oil port, and then grab a funnel if needed and fill with oil. Then screw the CSS back in, and pop the hose back on it. Done.

 

I figure if the dealer can't figure this out, I have much bigger problems. Lol.

After all, these service techs at dealerships are removing motors, transmissions, and rebuilding and/or replacing them if needed. Not to mention many other forms of complicated service procedures.

 

a CSS certainly wouldn't be to much of a brain teaser for them...... or would it?

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After all, these service techs at dealerships are removing motors, transmissions, and rebuilding and/or replacing them if needed. Not to mention many other forms of complicated service procedures.

 

a CSS certainly wouldn't be to much of a brain teaser for them...... or would it?

 

66,

 

The same techs changing engines and transmissions aren't doing oil changes so what I would do is talk to the service writer beforehand and quiz him on catch cans. If you get a blank stare then you might have a problem. If he knows what they are and can pass it on to the kid doing the oil changes you have a chance. Or the person doing the oil changes may know what they are and the problem is solved but it's better to find out beforehand rather than leaving it to chance.

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66,

 

The same techs changing engines and transmissions aren't doing oil changes so what I would do is talk to the service writer beforehand and quiz him on catch cans. If you get a blank stare then you might have a problem. If he knows what they are and can pass it on to the kid doing the oil changes you have a chance. Or the person doing the oil changes may know what they are and the problem is solved but it's better to find out beforehand rather than leaving it to chance.

 

 

 

Indeed. The lube tech at the dealer is going to be the same caliber as what gets hired at Jiffy Lube, etc. Which is why in my opinion it might be best he not be confronted with something he doesn't see all the time, especially since removal of the CSS itself is so easy. Explaining things will take far more time. If you remove just the CSS you will leave one fitting on the airbox unused. If you remove the CSS system with all hoses, and reinstall the original airbox hoses, you will leave the WOT fitting on the can unused. What to do about that is my question ---- cap/plug with something or can they be left as is briefly?

 

This seems like an excellent issue for Joe to weigh in on. Changing oil with the UPR system installed is not as easy or uncomplicated as stock.

Edited by duquephart
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