Tenscourts' 2016 LTZ/Z71 CCSB 4WD Silverado

bndawgs · January 17, 2017

I know you posted somewhere, but do you have a link to that under hood led strip?

tenscourts · January 17, 2017

I know you posted somewhere, but do you have a link to that under hood led strip?

It's a 100cm strip from Diode Dynamics. The switch is part of another kit I had. They actually sent me 200cm accidentally and I cut it. Prepped the area with alcohol and carefully applied the strip.

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bndawgs · January 17, 2017

Gotcha, thanks.

tenscourts · January 18, 2017

Someone asked about the dual battery setup so I'll document it here:

1. First the 2016 Silverado's do not have a true battery tray. You'll want to replace the place holder with a real GM tray.

Parts:

22989633 - Tray

14005061 - Retainer

11519527 - Bolt

2. Now you need a battery. After trying multiple batteries based off the dealership and the stores recommendations (all wrong) I ended up with an X2Power battery from Batteries plus. It's an AGM Dual Purpose/Deep Cycle SLI48AGMDP. You have to go back to a 2014 year model if you're using store systems to determine the proper size. 2015 and 2016 didn't offer the second battery so the only size listed is the main.

3. To isolate the batteries I went with an ML-ACR 7622 from Bluesea Systems. It offers a remote wired switch (which I never mounted) and you can manually engage it from under the hood as well. Without the remote switch you will only need to ground the device for it to work.

4. Custom cables were ordered from www.powerwerx.com. The cables were 2 Guage with 3/8 terminals except for the terminal that connects to the negative post of the main battery (5/16).

Lengths:

Negative - 7 feet

Long Postitive - 5 feet 10 inches

Short Positive - 1 foot (I would go shorter but at the time it was the minimum they would make. They will do as low as 3 inches now.)

5. For battery terminals I used Fastronix Top Post Military Spec Battery Terminal and Cover Kit from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should cover the basic system. Additionally I used a Bluesea Systems 6 circuit fuse box with negative and cover. I put a 100amp circuit breaker between the battery and the fuse box (The box maxes at 100amps and 30amps per circuit). I used loom on the cables and a relay on an added bus bar to make it hot only when the vehicle is running by triggering off the RAP fuse in the cab. Beyond the base setup you can do whatever you want with the system. The ACR will link the batteries when the proper voltage is detected and unlink them when it's not. It has built in protections for over and under voltages. You can hear a distinct click when it links shortly after starting the vehicle. Once you turn off the engine it depends how long it takes the added voltage to dissipate before it unlinks but with a few accessories running like the radio or the lights on it will only take a few seconds. With nothing running it may sit linked for a while. Comment with any questions.

pgamboa · January 22, 2017

Someone asked about the dual battery setup so I'll document it here:

1. First the 2016 Silverado's do not have a true battery tray. You'll want to replace the place holder with a real GM tray.

Parts:

22989633 - Tray

14005061 - Retainer

11519527 - Bolt

2. Now you need a battery. After trying multiple batteries based off the dealership and the stores recommendations (all wrong) I ended up with an X2Power battery from Batteries plus. It's an AGM Dual Purpose/Deep Cycle SLI48AGMDP. You have to go back to a 2014 year model if you're using store systems to determine the proper size. 2015 and 2016 didn't offer the second battery so the only size listed is the main.

3. To isolate the batteries I went with an ML-ACR 7622 from Bluesea Systems. It offers a remote wired switch (which I never mounted) and you can manually engage it from under the hood as well. Without the remote switch you will only need to ground the device for it to work.

4. Custom cables were ordered from www.powerwerx.com. The cables were 2 Guage with 3/8 terminals except for the terminal that connects to the negative post of the main battery (5/16).

Lengths:

Negative - 7 feet

Long Postitive - 5 feet 10 inches

Short Positive - 1 foot (I would go shorter but at the time it was the minimum they would make. They will do as low as 3 inches now.)

5. For battery terminals I used Fastronix Top Post Military Spec Battery Terminal and Cover Kit from Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LLWKXV6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That should cover the basic system. Additionally I used a Bluesea Systems 6 circuit fuse box with negative and cover. I put a 100amp circuit breaker between the battery and the fuse box (The box maxes at 100amps and 30amps per circuit). I used loom on the cables and a relay on an added bus bar to make it hot only when the vehicle is running by triggering off the RAP fuse in the cab. Beyond the base setup you can do whatever you want with the system. The ACR will link the batteries when the proper voltage is detected and unlink them when it's not. It has built in protections for over and under voltages. You can hear a distinct click when it links shortly after starting the vehicle. Once you turn off the engine it depends how long it takes the added voltage to dissipate before it unlinks but with a few accessories running like the radio or the lights on it will only take a few seconds. With nothing running it may sit linked for a while. Comment with any questions.

What is the main use case for a dual battery? Nice write up BTW.

tenscourts · January 23, 2017

What is the main use case for a dual battery? Nice write up BTW.

Most use cases involve the security of being able to start your truck after prolonged use like powering an inverter and accessories while camping or tailgating. Others involve needing more amps than your starting battery can provide like a winch or plow. Mine started as a way to power a security system involving 360 cameras 24/7 but I'm not sure I'll ever get that far. Then it just became a challenge to do it right. I am running some accessories off it now but I could have run those another way. At least now I know I have a way to start my truck if the main battery goes dead.

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pgamboa · January 23, 2017

Very cool. You recall the estimated cost for it all?

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Mrmikey7 · January 23, 2017

I think I covered everything. Comment if you have questions.

Mod Video 1

Mod Video 2

Mod Video 3

https://youtu.be/6YhtUxKuiCw

Mod Video 4

Looking gd!!

Is the mvi unit just an add on piece to the factory unit or is it a complete replacement? It's unclear on the site. I'm assuming it's an add on piece. Thanks

tenscourts · January 23, 2017

Looking gd!!

Is the mvi unit just an add on piece to the factory unit or is it a complete replacement? It's unclear on the site. I'm assuming it's an add on piece. Thanks

The 360 camera module is an add-on. I also have there HMI Unlock programming which provides video in motion. One doesn't rely on the other but but they are certainly complimentary. The HMI Unlock requires an HMI exchange or sending your HMI in which means you can't drive until you get it back. Depending on the features you are looking for they have multiple products.

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tenscourts · February 26, 2017

New wheels this week. 20 inch CK156 replicas.

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bgweed · February 27, 2017

Tenscourts,

I read your post about your dual battery setup, but I'd like to understand how your particular setup operates. If I understood correctly, you are running loads off the second battery, but that those loads are only powered when RAP is on. If that's the case, you can't power the OEM loads with the second battery (such as radio), and you have to have the key on to run the second battery loads. Wouldn't this be draining each battery (aux loads on second, RAP loads on main)? It would be great if you could post how you're using your setup, and a sketch would be helpful as well.

tenscourts · March 1, 2017

Tenscourts,

I read your post about your dual battery setup, but I'd like to understand how your particular setup operates. If I understood correctly, you are running loads off the second battery, but that those loads are only powered when RAP is on. If that's the case, you can't power the OEM loads with the second battery (such as radio), and you have to have the key on to run the second battery loads. Wouldn't this be draining each battery (aux loads on second, RAP loads on main)? It would be great if you could post how you're using your setup, and a sketch would be helpful as well.

I'll try to shoot a video soon. But right now the stuff running off my second battery is my front camera, side cameras, 360 camera module, and headrest monitor. The footwell lights are powered off the electrical system of the truck so they will fade out properly with the truck lighting. Yes both batteries are being drained when the truck is running but they are also both being charged. When the vehicle is off the second battery is disengaged so it can be used to boost the first if there is some draw that runs it dead and I need a jump. If I decide to run something that I want powered all the time I'll tie in to the fuse box I mounted on the battery and not the bus bar controlled by the relay.

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tenscourts · March 1, 2017

Very cool. You recall the estimated cost for it all?

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I must have missed this. If you are referring to the battery setup I'd say $800ish. Rounding here but $250 for the battery, $250 for the isolator, $100 for cables, $30 for terminals,and the rest for circuit breaker, fuse box, relays,etc. I was quoted $1200 from a shop not including the battery. Im sure I spent more than the $800 because I ordered the wrong cables first and couldn't return them. I also had some trial and error that cost me return shipping. But after the fact I could easily get the basic setup for under $800.

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tenscourts · March 30, 2017

Made a docking station for my phone directly into the center console. It works with Android Auto.

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tenscourts · April 4, 2017

A little update... Added some foam to support side to side movement. No issues at all since doing that but I also bought this new cable I'm going to swap with the current one to have more slack for a better adjustment at the phone end. I've popped the console trim off a lot in the past for mods so wanted to give myself more slack.

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