2016 5.3L AFM, problems fixed?

[Thomcat]

oil consumption comes along with miles once all the PCV venting stuff gets plugged up. mine has 190k and burns a quart every 1000 miles

x2

Even with a well maintained PCV system at 190K there's bound to be some ring and cylinder wear as well as worn valve guides permitting increased oil passage to the combustion chamber.......and for that mileage 1 quart/1K is not bad at all.

[Silverado Steve]

If your truck smokes putting seafoam in your crankcase, you have bigger problems than valve build up. Its hard to take your opinion with any seriousness since you don't seem to know what effect putting an additive in your oil and into your throttle body and into the piston.

 

Who advocates throwing a liquid bottle of Gumout in their Crankcase? Completely Retarded, Utter Nonsense! Wow-it smokes! Really? I don't even want to know what the thought process is for throwing a bottle of SEAFOAM into a gasoline vehicle engine........................

Edited October 6, 2016 by Silverado Steve

[mookdoc6]

If your truck smokes putting seafoam in your crankcase, you have bigger problems than valve build up. Its hard to take your opinion with any seriousness since you don't seem to know what effect putting an additive in your oil and into your throttle body and into the piston.

 

I mean Intake cleaning or Carburetor! Dah, yah it smokes! My bad, my problem is putting that crap in crankcase! For what? Why?

 

I am from the farm.....meaning you have a what 2014 Silverado? This is a brand new engine what are you putting SEAFOAM in there for? look, the conventional oils made today are 100 times better than oils of yesterday....They can go 10,000 miles in heat urban driving and not sludge up! Your not driving a 2.7ltr with like 4 quarts of oil and changing the oil every 10,000 miles on the same antifreeze, air filter you had since you bought it?

 

Folks, Use some common sense here do not put SEAFOAM in your crankcase! Go ask a ASE tech if they put that crap in their crankcase?

Edited October 6, 2016 by mookdoc6

[Silverado Steve]

You are completely missing the point of adding seafoam to your engine oil, perhaps because you dont understand how these new GDI engines work and what is causing the carbon build up on the intake valves. Adding seafoam to your crankcase along with injecting it into the TBI will allow the seafoam to reach the intake valves and loosen and remove the carbon build up where gasoline would serve that ourpose in port injected motors of past. The seafoam added to the oil in a GDI engine will settle on the intake valves, that same oil blowback that would be caught by a catch can for those who installed them. With these new GDI engines, you can do nothing, add a catch can, walnut blast, or apply GDI intake valve cleaner to keep the valves from coking. The quality of motor oil has nothing to do with build up in GDI engines, carbon from combustion, oil blow back, mixed with heat from the engine hardens the carbon gasses on the valves, the detergents in motor oil are not concentrated enough to remove this build up, this is where a CRC, seafoam or gumout type cleaner which is a concentrated petroleum distolate 150% more concentrated than that what is found in oil and gasoline is. Adding seafoam to your fuel tank will do little to nothing as the fuel will never touch the affected intake valves......that's why seafoam to your crankcase as a preventive tool....make sense?

 

I mean Intake cleaning or Carburetor! Dah, yah it smokes! My bad, my problem is putting that crap in crankcase! For what? Why?

 

I am from the farm.....meaning you have a what 2014 Silverado? This is a brand new engine what are you putting SEAFOAM in there for? look, the conventional oils made today are 100 times better than oils of yesterday....They can go 10,000 miles in heat urban driving and not sludge up! Your not driving a 2.7ltr with like 4 quarts of oil and changing the oil every 10,000 miles on the same antifreeze, air filter you had since you bought it?

 

Folks, Use some common sense here do not put SEAFOAM in your crankcase! Go ask a ASE tech if they put that crap in their crankcase?

Edited October 6, 2016 by Silverado Steve

[mookdoc6]

You are completely missing the point of adding seafoam to your engine oil, perhaps because you dont understand how these new GDI engines work and what is causing the carbon build up on the intake valves. Adding seafoam to your crankcase along with injecting it into the TBI will allow the seafoam to reach the intake valves and loosen and remove the carbon build up where gasoline would serve that ourpose in port injected motors of past. The seafoam added to the oil in a GDI engine will settle on the intake valves, that same oil blowback that would be caught by a catch can for those who installed them. With these new GDI engines, you can do nothing, add a catch can, walnut blast, or apply GDI intake valve cleaner to keep the valves from coking. The quality of motor oil has nothing to do with build up in GDI engines, carbon from combustion, oil blow back, mixed with heat from the engine hardens the carbon gasses on the valves, the detergents in motor oil are not concentrated enough to remove this build up, this is where a CRC, seafoam or gumout type cleaner which is a concentrated petroleum distolate 150% more concentrated than that what is found in oil and gasoline is. Adding seafoam to your fuel tank will do little to nothing as the fuel will never touch the affected intake valves......that's why seafoam to your crankcase as a preventive tool....make sense?

 

Actually, I think you are! The oil quality has everything to do with sludge! Your putting SEAFOAM in crankcase for sludge and that would be only reasoning. Obviously your engine has no sludge! Your cleaning the valve seats and stems with Blow-back Really? It is probably not going to do jack injecting in through your TBI so now your thinking the blow-back will get er done or the combo? Why on Gods green Earth do you think 1 can of SEAFOAM in your crankcase is going to settle on your 2014 COKED OUT valve seats? I am just blown away........If a Farmer saw you dumping that in a 2014 Silverado crankcase he would think what the hell is that city slicker doing?

Edited October 6, 2016 by mookdoc6

[Silverado Steve]

A can of seafoam and or an additional treatment of CRC isnt going to completely remove all deposits in one treatment that is true, but in never said anything to the contrary. I think your missing the point. The only true way to remove all the carbon on the valves in these engines is to break it down and clean the valves manaully, how many people really want to do a valve job every 50,000 miles? I don't. The solutions is to do a little preventive maintenance to curb the buildup. Some do a catch can, some do engine treatments at an interval of their choosing, some do nothing. Neither method has been verified as most effective because these engines havent racked up the miles. At 45,000 i havent suffered any engine power loss of mpg loss, and no catch can. I havent done a scientific study comparing intervals of seafoam and crc treatment vs a catch can only. Really there is probably no foul in doing nothing, but plenty of back and forth with those who choose to do a catch can vs those who don't and what effect a catch can has. I havent seen a thing on this site where someone had an engine so built up with carbon by just doing regular interval oil changes, maybe in a year or two when many hit 100,000 miles. The point of this whole conversation that you missed was the overall fear that these engines are ticking time bombs because of the carbon build up is over stated right now. However that fear can be minimized with a little preventive maintenance if you so choose.

[15 Z71]

A can of seafoam and or an additional treatment of CRC isnt going to completely remove all deposits in one treatment that is true, but in never said anything to the contrary. I think your missing the point. The only true way to remove all the carbon on the valves in these engines is to break it down and clean the valves manaully, how many people really want to do a valve job every 50,000 miles? I don't. The solutions is to do a little preventive maintenance to curb the buildup. Some do a catch can, some do engine treatments at an interval of their choosing, some do nothing. Neither method has been verified as most effective because these engines havent racked up the miles. At 45,000 i havent suffered any engine power loss of mpg loss, and no catch can. I havent done a scientific study comparing intervals of seafoam and crc treatment vs a catch can only. Really there is probably no foul in doing nothing, but plenty of back and forth with those who choose to do a catch can vs those who don't and what effect a catch can has. I havent seen a thing on this site where someone had an engine so built up with carbon by just doing regular interval oil changes, maybe in a year or two when many hit 100,000 miles. The point of this whole conversation that you missed was the overall fear that these engines are ticking time bombs because of the carbon build up is over stated right now. However that fear can be minimized with a little preventive maintenance if you so choose.

So if gas NEVER touches the valves there is no reason to use top their fuel right? Why would would the Manuel strongly recommend using it?

[Silverado Steve]

No idea. I havent seen that in the owners manual so i dont know. Can you post the reference from the OM?

 

 

So if gas NEVER touches the valves there is no reason to use top their fuel right? Why would would the Manuel strongly recommend using it?

[15 Z71]

No idea. I havent seen that in the owners manual so i dont know. Can you post the reference from the OM?

 

 

Sure, I will later tonight. I just looked at it the other day.

[Thomcat]

So if gas NEVER touches the valves there is no reason to use top their fuel right? Why would would the Manuel strongly recommend using it?

With DI the fuel bypasses the intake manifold of the induction system valves so there is no cleaning action from fuel additives on the back of the valves......BUT these valves are constantly opening and closing on the intake and exhaust strokes and when they open they project into the cylinder and are subject to amounts of fuel/oil burned during the combustion cycle which can settle on all surfaces of the valves...the crappier the gasoline, the more the chance that combustion products can crust on the back of the valves and valve seat areas.......hopefully the new sodium filled valved stems will help to counter the buildup, but the best bet is to use top tier gas which may help to leave less combustion product residue.

 

Adding a solvent type cleaner to the induction system downstream of the MAF sensor might help and temporarily screw with the emissions controls, and may help with DI related deposits on the back of the valves. But in my opinion introducing a cleaner into the crankcase is never a good idea........useless at best and foolish at worst, can't serve any better cleaning of valves than using top tier gasoline, but can adversely degrade one or more of the oil additives which constitute over half the oil and increase wear or non metallic components such as crankcase and timing chain case seals and result in seal failure. Definitely not worth the risk.

[mookdoc6]

With DI the fuel bypasses the intake manifold of the induction system valves so there is no cleaning action from fuel additives on the back of the valves......BUT these valves are constantly opening and closing on the intake and exhaust strokes and when they open they project into the cylinder and are subject to amounts of fuel/oil burned during the combustion cycle which can settle on all surfaces of the valves...the crappier the gasoline, the more the chance that combustion products can crust on the back of the valves and valve seat areas.......hopefully the new sodium filled valved stems will help to counter the buildup, but the best bet is to use top tier gas which may help to leave less combustion product residue.

 

Adding a solvent type cleaner to the induction system downstream of the MAF sensor might help and temporarily screw with the emissions controls, and may help with DI related deposits on the back of the valves. But in my opinion introducing a cleaner into the crankcase is never a good idea........useless at best and foolish at worst, can't serve any better cleaning of valves than using top tier gasoline, but can adversely degrade one or more of the oil additives which constitute over half the oil and increase wear or non metallic components such as crankcase and timing chain case seals and result in seal failure. Definitely not worth the risk.

That is what I am saying.......WoW do not put that in your crankcase PEOPLE! I would rather see you people "Throwing" a hand of bananas in there at least that is a better option.....I agree with you post!

Edited October 6, 2016 by mookdoc6

[Silverado Steve]

With DI the fuel bypasses the intake manifold of the induction system valves so there is no cleaning action from fuel additives on the back of the valves......BUT these valves are constantly opening and closing on the intake and exhaust strokes and when they open they project into the cylinder and are subject to amounts of fuel/oil burned during the combustion cycle which can settle on all surfaces of the valves...the crappier the gasoline, the more the chance that combustion products can crust on the back of the valves and valve seat areas.......hopefully the new sodium filled valved stems will help to counter the buildup, but the best bet is to use top tier gas which may help to leave less combustion product residue.

 

Adding a solvent type cleaner to the induction system downstream of the MAF sensor might help and temporarily screw with the emissions controls, and may help with DI related deposits on the back of the valves. But in my opinion introducing a cleaner into the crankcase is never a good idea........useless at best and foolish at worst, can't serve any better cleaning of valves than using top tier gasoline, but can adversely degrade one or more of the oil additives which constitute over half the oil and increase wear or non metallic components such as crankcase and timing chain case seals and result in seal failure. Definitely not worth the risk.

The decision to use an oil cleaning agent is definitely opinion based. Many people have used Seafoam in this instance with no repercussion. There is no empirical evidence that adding Seafoam to an engine will lead to its demise. Frankly the opinions of such fall into the same category as which brand of motor oil to use snd how often to change it. There are plenty of opinions online with a simple Google search of "seafoam in crankcase" the vast majority of negative replies are from people who have never tried or used seafoam in this capacity and the other from those who do and some with videos of before, after and continued use. You choose what to believe on what you read.

[Thomcat]

The decision to use an oil cleaning agent is definitely opinion based. Many people have used Seafoam in this instance with no repercussion. There is no empirical evidence that adding Seafoam to an engine will lead to its demise. Frankly the opinions of such fall into the same category as which brand of motor oil to use snd how often to change it. There are plenty of opinions online with a simple Google search of "seafoam in crankcase" the vast majority of negative replies are from people who have never tried or used seafoam in this capacity and the other from those who do and some with videos of before, after and continued use. You choose what to believe on what you read.

Just going by what the filler cap on the 5.3l says....5W-30.......doesn't say 0W-20 or SAE 30.....maybe they didn't have the room to include Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Motor Honey, Astroglide, etc......at the very least any of that stuff dilutes the affect the existing viscosity modifiers...have to go by what the designers indicate.

[Silverado Steve]

Again a google search returns many discussions on this very topic. All seafoam is is a concentrated detergent mixed with alcohol. Plenty of other people in these discussions have posted either videos on youribe or oil analysis to show the molecular breakdown of the oil they removed wirh seafoam. Also there is a Nissan mechanic and VW mechanic touting the benefits of using seafoam and the correct way to use it in the crankcase. In these back and forth threads in other automobile forums, nowhere is there any testimony from anyone who ruined an engine using seafoam in oil. The thing is you dont leave seafoam in your oil when you change it, you add it 100-150 miles before changing your oul and filter. I wouldnt expect to see a warning on yge oil cap, however does it ssy dont add any oil additived in the owners manual? Seafoam states, safe for "All" gadoline engines. Im sure there would have been many well known lawsuits in the automobile enthusiast community if seafoam was known to ruin engines much like Frams orange cans were discouraged by RAM for causing engine ticking back in the early 2000's. Again throw out some proof or youre just spewing conjecture.

[Silverado Steve]

Actually my 5.3 does say 0W-20....why doesyours say 5W-30?