Best oil for the 5.3

[Grumpy Bear]

Oil:

 Reduces friction

(lubricity)

Prevents metal to metal contact

(viscosity-film thickness/sacrificial EP additives)

Cools

(Thermal Conductivity)

Seals

(D'ho, rings)

Cleans

(Detergents / Dispersants)

Prevent corrosion

(Additive inhibitors)

Transfer Energy

(Hydraulics AMF / VVT / VVL)

 

Red highlighted are areas PAO/POE have a decided edge over ANY mineral oil derivative. 

 

 

 

 

 

[flyingfool]

41 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Oil:

 Reduces friction

(lubricity)

Prevents metal to metal contact

(viscosity-film thickness/sacrificial EP additives)

Cools

(Thermal Conductivity)

Seals

(D'ho, rings)

Cleans

(Detergents / Dispersants)

Prevent corrosion

(Additive inhibitors)

Transfer Energy

(Hydraulics AMF / VVT / VVL)

 

Red highlighted are areas PAO/POE have a decided edge over ANY mineral oil derivative. 

 

 

 

 

 

have you done a lab analysis of the Kirkland stuff Grump? 2500 mile oci seems extreme

Edited January 13, 2021 by flyingfool

[Grumpy Bear]

1 hour ago, flyingfool said:

have you done a lab analysis of the Kirkland stuff Grump? 2500 mile oci seems extreme

I have not. This motor I use it in uses oil. Rings collapsed (GM code for stuck rings from varnish) while using QSUD on 5K OCI's. Both are Group III mineral oils. I don't use it in motors that do not use oil. 

 

I have gone to some lengths to nurse this motor back from a quart in 600 miles to a quart in something over 7,000 miles.

In my world this is still too much!

 

Should I expect something other than what the Group III class has already done?

I don't think so.

It has already proven to be incapable of going 5K in the Ecotec 2.4 I4 motor.

 

 

 

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

9 hours ago, flyingfool said:

2500 mile oci seems extreme

Up to 85K the maintenance on the 2.4 Ecotec was boringly routine. I wish it had stated that way. 

 

Looking back on my notes I see the first mention of any concern over usage to be made at 90,000 miles indicating it started using some between 85K and 90K. Rings were starting to varnish. 

 

By 95K it was using 3/4 of a quart in 5K. I switched from Quaker State to Red Line which slowed usage to a quart in 7.4K. Lower NOACK perhaps. 

 

At 100K miles this 2.4 dropped a cam phaser solenoid. Oil screen was spotless. I was giddy! 

 

At 105 K usage had abated to a quart in 10K.

 

At 110K I switched to AMSOIL when the second check (usage) remained unchanged. I concluded that the Esters had done their job and freed the rings.

 

At 115 K the bottom fell out of the box. February 2020 the PCV system plugs. The orifice between the manifold and the head. Oil went full on white snot foam loaded with water. Valve cover totally loaded with sludge. We set a new area record low temperature that week. Ice in the fresh air tube for the PCV. This all happens in the span of ONE tank of fuel. 350 miles. This will kill the best of oils. 

 

The cleaning was extensive and expensive. Chemical cleaning of the rings multiple times has brought the usage back to acceptable limits. 

 

NOTE that usage starts during the the time Quaker State has been in play for quite some time. I'm not blaming the brand but the base oil type. 

 

NOTE that the rings are starting to stick while all visible indications (solenoid screens) show no hint of varnish. I find that telling in that those two areas of the motor live in completely different climates. TEMPERATURE climates. 

 

NOTE at 5K OCI's any UOA would have shown a substantial reserve of TBN meaning what? TBN and insoluble levels are not good indicators of varnish protection.

 

OCI length isn't based on ceremony or traditional wisdom. It's based on what's happening in the motor during that cycle. It's based on the choices one makes in oil type. It's based on build specs the OEM SHOULD be honest about and isn't. (Law suites over these motors say other).

 

IF 2500 mile OCI's is what it takes to keep it clean enough to help the ultra low tension oil rings they put in these motors functional is that excessive?  

 

I have a second one of these motors in a Buick with but 14K miles on it. That motor is on AMSOIL and 5K OCI's. Is that excessive? I think not. Not in this case with this motor. Would 2500 be so for a Ecotec3 4.3? Yea....    

 

 

 

 

[DozierJD]

On 12/9/2020 at 10:13 AM, flyingfool said:

yes the old Yellow bottle is all I used in my 1990 Suburban, had it for 24 years, that old pig never failed me, over 280K miles on old technology. never touched the motor , and sold it in fine running condition. 

 

all my current GM products all use the RedLine 5-30w synthetic stuff for obvious reasons.

deciding if I’m going to use redline in my 13 Silverado 1500 5.3, care to expand on your obvious reasons for using it? Just bought it has 67,000 miles on it. 

Edited March 28, 2021 by DozierJD

[JimCost2014]

11 hours ago, DozierJD said:

deciding if I’m going to use redline in my 13 Silverado 1500 5.3, care to expand on your obvious reasons for using it? Just bought it has 67,000 miles on it. 

Welcome to the site.

 

Honestly, if you are out of all warranties and not required to have a Dexos approved oil, use a good quality brand that you trust/feel comfortable with. It will help you sleep better at night. 

[Grumpy Bear]

11 hours ago, DozierJD said:

deciding if I’m going to use redline in my 13 Silverado 1500 5.3, care to expand on your obvious reasons for using it? Just bought it has 67,000 miles on it. 

I was going to let this be but I think flyingfool is off grid. 

 

Red Line HP if that is the line you are talking about has SH level phosphorus which only matters if your motor is using more than about a quart in 5,000 miles. Cat killer. If you use little to none....it's a solid chocie.