Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

[Grumpy Bear]

19 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

The 700R4 didn’t stay in after the wife started working and bought her star fire. I went back to the 3 speed transmission for weekend warrior duty. That’s when most of the drag racing was. I got stupid and put the 454 in a nova and the 350 back in the impala and sold it.


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Were you having fun being stupid? I always did. 

 

Just fired off my first round post to Filthy Motorsports Ben Brazda poking at dead things with a stick as is my nature. There are cheaper resources I'm sure but Ben has been good to me and is a great resource of accurate knowledge. He's part of the Motorsports experience. A valuable part. 

 

Yukon is their gear supplier and Crown Gear their gear guru for services such a shoot peen, magnaflux and other. Ben knows this truck and my goals. We've spent some face time on this project. Only Jason at Deegan's knows her better.  

[KARNUT]

Were you having fun being stupid? I always did. 
 
Just fired off my first round post to Filthy Motorsports Ben Brazda poking at dead things with a stick as is my nature. There are cheaper resources I'm sure but Ben has been good to me and is a great resource of accurate knowledge. He's part of the Motorsports experience. A valuable part. 
 
Yukon is their gear supplier and Crown Gear their gear guru for services such a shoot peen, magnaflux and other. Ben knows this truck and my goals. We've spent some face time on this project. Only Jason at Deegan's knows her better.  

I had a lot of the classics. Sometimes I wish I did like my brother in law. He kept his first, a 69 firebird convertible. My brother a 79 little red express truck. My first was a 73 RX3 Mazda. My second 74 barracuda. Naaa, I had more fun.


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[diyer2]

67 Impala

68 Camaro

70 Nova

70 Cadillac Devile

 

 

[KARNUT]

67 Impala
68 Camaro
70 Nova
70 Cadillac Devile
 
 
[emoji4]

My third one was a super 88 convertible like in the beginning of full house. Then a 68 fast back impala. I like your first four better. My fifth was a 70 javelin MD special, 390 4 speed.


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[Grumpy Bear]

Last night I created a spread sheet from this thread to create a service log. A record to be kept with the truck. 

It includes:

Routine service. 

Modifications & Enhancements.

Damage. 

Repairs. 

Recalls. 

[CadillacLuke24]

That's nice to have. I have a simple Excel document that similarly reflects that. On the left I have maintenance/modifications/damage repair/recalls, cost, mileage at the occurence, and a notes section (usually where completed). On the right I have my fuel log, including the price per gallon, total cost, odometer readings, gallons filled, hand calculated MPG per my formula, and the location of refueling. 

 

Then, on the second page, if you will, I have a spot for insurance payments and for loan payments. 

[Grumpy Bear]

On ‎3‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 3:13 AM, CadillacLuke24 said:

That's nice to have. I have a simple Excel document that similarly reflects that. On the left I have maintenance/modifications/damage repair/recalls, cost, mileage at the occurence, and a notes section (usually where completed). On the right I have my fuel log, including the price per gallon, total cost, odometer readings, gallons filled, hand calculated MPG per my formula, and the location of refueling. 

 

Then, on the second page, if you will, I have a spot for insurance payments and for loan payments. 

Your is more detailed than mine. I must be getting lazy. On another note: 

 

K2** sway bars in order of roll stiffness:

1.)        34 mm / 1.339” (1.73) 1.0 X stiffer  GM RPO Z85

2.)        36 mm / 1.417” (2.08) 1.2 X stiffer  GM RPO Z71

3.)        35 mm / 1.375” (3.57) 2.1 X stiffer  ADDCO/Belltech

4.)        38 mm / 1.500” (5.06) 2.9 X stiffer  Hellwig

Bold type is the actual diameter.

Bars 1 is a tubular bar with a 6 mm wall, while 3 & 4 are solid. Bar #2 I’ve assumed a common 6 mm wall.

Number in parentheses is a stiffness ‘factor’ based on the fourth power of diameter. It is not an actual torsional rate.

Tubular bar values are compound. Bar diameter value minus bar bore diameter value.

A little goes a long way.  For solid bars an exact 26% increase in the bars circumference will double roll stiffness.

Tubular bars are a bit more complicated as wall thickness my vary for the same diameter across different manufactures.

You can only compare bars of like materials and like geometry. Steel v steel and so on. A 1.25 bar for a Camaro cannot be compared to a Mustang bar of like diameter.

 

[Grumpy Bear]

So Ben (Filthy Motorsports) has been swamped. It's race season. I should do these projects earlier in the winter, right?

 

Anyway I got his first response back on some questions I had asked about some gear services: magnafluxing, cryogenics, shot peening, micro-polishing, deburring  and base grinding. Crown Gear has some extensive services that can quadruple the cost of the gear and carrier. Crazy right? 

 

I'd just like to decide on the ratio....waiting on financing. Which means getting and cashing a check.  Retirement account. 

 

So, in the mean time I took the Scan Gauge II from the Buick and installed it into the Honda. Also changed headlamp bulbs in the Honda for Silver Star Halogen. I like to learn from all my children. 2006 Civic 1.8 comes from the factory with a 180 F thermostat STILL. Closing in on a quarter million miles on that one. All the sudden the 180 Stat in the truck doesn't seem so extreme. This car gets about 38 mpg summer and 32 winter. I had 'eyes' on the ECU or all of 10 minutes and found the 'sweet spot' 200 miles into this tank and over 45 mpg making turns for 2,000 rpm. Love this tool. Nasty weather doing it too. Great bulb and great improvement too but I still need lamp assemblies. 

 

SO a little story. Had the shop source some headlamp assemblies for the Honda. Quoted $125 each. You have to take the bumper cover and grill out to do this job. Had the nose off the car and......wrong lamps. Right lamps are $250 each????? I say button her up and pay $80 for the R&R. Then spend 5 minutes on the internet and fine the right lamps with a replacement bumper cover for $250 total. Honda wants $1,000 for the bumper cover alone. I google a MOOG sway bar end kit for Pepper. Get prices for the same name brand part from $7 to $45. Moral of the story is??????????????????????????????????? I use to put head lamps in my 65 Ford for $3 from Kmart. Quad 5" rounds. They worked better too and never EVER yellowed. 

 

NAPA, O'Reilly's, AutoZone, Car Quest, all in the $230 to $260 range for the Honda lamps. Auto Anything, Rock Auto half that price or less. Local shops use local vendors. I'm not paying a 150% plus markup for a store front and have struck a deal with my mechanic. Most of these guys don't install parts your bring yourself but John see's how stupid this is. I bring what I bring, show an invoice and he charges labor and I give him a percentage of the parts cost. Just like he would get if he bought local. We both win. 

Edited March 14, 2019 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Second round of emails to Ben and now Red Line and Eaton. After visiting the Eaton site I have more questions than answers on carrier break, bearing selection and lubrication that will need answers before I plunk down this much money on an optional modification. Happy to do it however. I love to learn and doing in depth research on my projects is my prime tool. 

 

From the first round of talks I learned that industry wide around 200K is considered average service life for the average diff that is not equipped with a clutches. More to do with seal and the 10K bearing life that ring a pinion, spider gear wear. Learned the reasons deeper gears tend to use more power. Hypoid gears that is, not gears in general. Learned that the average OEM fit and finish will provide a energy transfer efficiency between 92 and 96 percent. As diff life is more about bearing life than gear life, things like shot peening or cryogenic services would be of benefit only if you intend to abuse the unit regularly. That might mean heavy towing if that state is the majority of the machines service duty cycle. Just thought that interesting. That items like 'super finishing gear teeth and deburring and back lapping can provide measurable decreases in operating temperatures and quitter running, which can also be accomplished with some synthetic lubricants but without the added frictional drag of same. With the added benefit of lower initial debris accumulation during the bedding in process. Improves chances of reaching the 10K bearing life numbers under 'average' service. Lastly the Eaton Trutrac is the most versatile diff available. That they can be used in both ends of a 4WD system and about the only thing they don't excel at is Rock Crawling. Seems they don't care to have one wheel completely off the ground.

 

Lastly and most concerning to me it that Eaton recommends that the Trutrac no be lubricated with ANY NON-MINERAL BASED or LS ADDITIVE added synthetic. The latter I understand. It doesn't work by use of clutches. Yes is a fiction driven system employing worm and worm wheels but I personally can't imagine that a Synthetic fluid could reduce friction to the point to render two gears whose teeth intersect at a 45* angle ineffective. It's just an opinion and mine might be wrong so I will leave this one to the experts thus my queries to Phillips and Eaton. 

[Grumpy Bear]

Talk about a rapid response team. 

 

Eaton Performance (Eaton Performance Support)

Mar 18, 17:04 ADT

Hello Marty,
Thank you for your inquiry. Regarding the Detroit Truetrac differential: A quality petroleum GL5 rated (mineral) based oil is recommended. Synthetic oils may also be used if desired per axle manufacturer’s recommendations. Friction modifiers should not be used however, as they will decrease overall performance (reduce differential bias). As far as oil weight and quantity, please consult your vehicle's owner's manual. We do not recommend any specific brand.

Thanks!
-Eaton Performance Support

 

**********************************************************************************************************************

 

Marty,

 

There isn’t a technical reason that a friction modified synthetic gear oil can’t be used with a Truetrac as it’s operation doesn’t rely on friction so isn’t affected by the slipperiness of the fluid.

 

I am unsure why Eaton includes this statement.

 

Regards,

 

Dave 

 

---

P: (+1) 707.751.2914  |

O: (+1) 707.745.6100  | 

6100 Egret Ct  |  Benicia, CA 94510

Red Line Synthetic Oil

 

************************************************************************************************************************************

 

Full synthetic oil simply increases the torque bias a bit in the TrueTrac, in my opinion it is well worth the extended service life with synthetic oil.

 

Ben Brazda

Filthy Motorsports

720-545-2279

 

*****************************************************************************************************

 

I did receive conformation that Phillips has discontinued Red Line 75W90NS Gear oil. It has been my go to for the primary case for the Electra Glide. Would have been my go to for this project as well.

 

I thought something fishy. My understanding of worm gears is that while you can rotate the worm gear by worm, it is usually not possible to rotate worm by using the worm gear. Sort of defeats the purpose of their use otherwise. Great I can use what I like and I like Esters for this service. 

 

 

 

[swathdiver]

On 3/6/2019 at 8:08 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Last night I created a spread sheet from this thread to create a service log. A record to be kept with the truck. 

 

My spreadsheet is at 22 tabs or pages now!  The first is a cross reference as that is what I originally started these for back in 2006.  The furthest right column shows if and when something was installed or changed.  Other tabs include the gas mileage tests, fuel log, oil and tire rotations and their intervals, RPO Sheet decoded, VIN decoded, TPMS sensor positions and their age, drag racing stats, towing calculator, etc.

 

It morphs from there and spills over into other spreadsheets that include transmission, driveshaft and tire calculators and the like.  Then things like all the spark plugs, oil filters, tires, etc.  

[Grumpy Bear]

Took Pepper for a hard walk today. Something I rarely do. Warmer her up, reset the data recorder and laid her ears back for two gears. Shift point 5443 RPM. Maximum oil pressure 50 psi. Oil temp 201 F.  Peak TPS position 83%. MAP 14.3. BAR 14.3. Ergo more blade isn't more flow.

 

While the recorder shows 50 psi peak the dash gauge is pegged past 80 psi. Smart guy would set the WOT shift point back a few hundred rpm, eh? There's nothing there above 5K anyway. Got my first real good taste of torque management. Pulls timing  like crazy during the shift. While I see it's upside it does feel odd. Sounds odd too. Like a turbo on spool up. 

 

So why did I do this? I wanted to know what sort of motor I have. Oil volume is set by the pump but oil pressure is at the mercy of internal clearances. Apparently mine are generous assuming GM is still living by the 10 pounds per thousand rpm rule. I also learned that despite having 6 forward gears the ratio gaps are still wider than the spread between peak torque and peak horsepower. That is disappointing for a VVT motor and even more disappointing given the fact that GM could choose any set of ratios they liked. It is definitely built with economy of operation in mind. 

 

Bottom line, she's not what I would call a scrapper. I'd think differently if she would have shown me 60 psi oil pressure. So much for a 4.10 gear. 3.73, 3.42 and 3.23 are still on the table. 

 

Pretty reliable rumor has it that there are some Engineers at Eaton using synthetics in their Trutrac diff's. I also see that Diablo has some tuners now for the new 4.3's. 

[Nasty]

47 minutes ago, Grumpy Bear said:

Took Pepper for a hard walk today. Something I rarely do. Warmer her up, reset the data recorder and laid her ears back for two gears. Shift point 5443 RPM. Maximum oil pressure 50 psi. Oil temp 201 F.  Peak TPS position 83%. MAP 14.3. BAR 14.3. Ergo more blade isn't more flow.

 

While the recorder shows 50 psi peak the dash gauge is pegged past 80 psi. Smart guy would set the WOT shift point back a few hundred rpm, eh? There's nothing there above 5K anyway. Got my first real good taste of torque management. Pulls timing  like crazy during the shift. While I see it's upside it does feel odd. Sounds odd too. Like a turbo on spool up. 

 

So why did I do this? I wanted to know what sort of motor I have. Oil volume is set by the pump but oil pressure is at the mercy of internal clearances. Apparently mine are generous assuming GM is still living by the 10 pounds per thousand rpm rule. I also learned that despite having 6 forward gears the ratio gaps are still wider than the spread between peak torque and peak horsepower. That is disappointing for a VVT motor and even more disappointing given the fact that GM could choose any set of ratios they liked. It is definitely built with economy of operation in mind. 

 

Bottom line, she's not what I would call a scrapper. I'd think differently if she would have shown me 60 psi oil pressure. So much for a 4.10 gear. 3.73, 3.42 and 3.23 are still on the table. 

 

Pretty reliable rumor has it that there are some Engineers at Eaton using synthetics in their Trutrac diff's. I also see that Diablo has some tuners now for the new 4.3's. 

Im assuming you have a 323?

[Grumpy Bear]

9 hours ago, Nasty said:

Im assuming you have a 323?

Yeeeeeeeeesssssssssss?

[Nasty]

Yeeeeeeeeesssssssssss?

I have the 342. Oem tire height was 31.8. When i went down to a 29.7 it made a huge differance for me. Ao if you are on oem size. A 373 willkick ass for you

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