Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

[Black02Silverado]

6 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

If it doesn't stop raining soon I'm going to build an Ark and gather some animals. 

 

 

That is what it is like here in eastern NC.  The mosquitoes are so bad they can carry you away.  It took 2 weeks before I could drive on my yard for it to dry out enough without leaving ruts.

[Grumpy Bear]

78,600 miles. Your looking at Pepper's motor side PCV vent hose connection. You see any oil? Me either. Not a hint of any fluid what-so-ever. How can that be? I mean it is as clean as if it were taken from the package and photographed. 

 

Well, how does oil get in the crankcase vent gas line? Four things are required. 1.) Mist 2.) Enough gas volume to carry it. 3.) Enough pressure differential to support a velocity to carry the mist.  4.) Nothing in between to separate the mist from the gasses. 

 

Mist is a given in a motor that is even at idle. The returning oil is whipped like a redheaded stepchild by the rotating assembly. If you could put a window, and I have, in a block to watch what goes on in there you would see a cyclone of oil. A Peterbilt hitting a spring buck. How about gas volume? Where would it come from? The pistons rise and fall in a multi-cylinder motor pretty much is a net zero volume net event. Gas past the rings from leakage is the most common source of volume. Only one in fact. This requires two conditions. A high pressure differential and rings that leak like a sieve. High differential is a condition of inlet manifold absolute pressure, high manifold vacuum. Big cylinder pressures caused by nearly WOT conditions. Now as a matter of fact this little 4.3 routinely is in a state of high inlet pressure thus high cylinder pressure so...the only stop to leakage is at the rings. They do not leak to any significant degree. To test that one would do a leak-down test, or look into your PCV system. What do you see? Ring leakage is rings NEVER seated or....worn out. 

 

If there is no volume there is also no velocity to entrain that frothy mess. Hand in glove. Lastly there is such a serious baffling system in an Ecotec3 that even moderate entrainment is unlikely. Unless the systems parameters are exceeded. Don't! 

 

So questions. I am an advocate that even todays motors require a break-in and that that break in be moderate. I've been ridiculed for that stance. You sure? I've been told GDI motors have the unavoidable circumstances of being inherently 'bad seed' and WILL have unavoidable inlet build up issues. You sure, really? That a catch can is the only reliable defense. You absolutely cross your heart sure? That I use way too good of an oil that that I change it way to often. Your staking your life on that stance sure? That ring failure is unavoidable in GDI motors. How sure are you, really? I run my motors too cold....okay. 

 

Here is what I can not predict. Lifter failures. Mechanical integrity is only in part lubrication and service related. Bad parts are just that...bad parts. Time will tell but I'm positive if ever Pepper does suffer a lifter failure this post will get lost in the Bermuda Triangle. 

 

If anyone wishes to give us all an explanation that explains why after this number of miles there is zero crankcase traffic to the inlet system, brother I am all ears. If anyone wants to know how this was achieved...ask. 

 

78,

[Black02Silverado]

Ring seal is the key.  If the rings are sealed and you can get proper combustion in the chamber then life for the engine is great. It is a combination of art and science so to speak.  If you can find  the right combination of quality oil use, fuel use, driving style, engine tune then getting what Marty has accomplished is possible. 

 

As you can tell from his posts, he takes it to the ultimate level when it comes to taking care of and operation of his vehicles. So this will only give him in return the best results one can hope for.

 

This is why I go through Dysonanalysis for my used oil analysis.  Terry works with me to fine tune my vehicle. 

Edited October 7, 2018 by Black02Silverado

[Grumpy Bear]

Temperature swings have been wild. A week of wet 55 F for a high then a string of 85 F + sunny and windy. It reminded me how finicky tire pressures can be with temperature changes like this. One day your cold pressure is 34 the next it's 38. Hot changes from 36 to 40 psi. On the cold days it felt like it was rolling through packed wet sand and the next like it's on roller skates. Actual coast down distance change is about 50 yards from 45 to 30 mph. Enough to eat up 1.5 mpg. Just a seasonal reminder. 

 

My buddy John's 67 C-20

 

Edited October 8, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

9 hours ago, Grumpy Bear said:

You have a part number for the GM 192F? Two dealerships and both swear there is no such thing claiming that only a 207F is available. I miss good parts people. 

Need a factory 192F thermostat for your Ecotec3? Corvette and Caddy part. Who would have thunk it? Right? Thanks Corbinson16!!

 

  3 hours ago, Crobinson16 said:

That's why you can't always listen to the parts people. The part number is.  12674634   it's the complete water neck with thermostat. 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

80,000 Mile Services

 

Tires: Pressure checks, balance and rotate. Now at 6/32" and even.

 

6 qt. Red Line HP 0W20 and NAPA (WIX) Gold WL-10255. Sample sent to Dyson. 5K on this change. 

Thanks Nick! (you will be copied on results) In the post today. 

 

8qt Red Line D6. Now standing at 89% PAO/Ester, 11% Group III. (Third dump and fill) 

 

20 oz. Chevron Techron to 25 gallons of fuel. 

 

Top fluids and service cabin filter. 

Edited October 16, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Dyson report came today. First oil analysis I've ever had done. Maybe I mentioned that...or not.  All we really have at this point is one data point  and a few things to watch that all seemed to be linked together. Basic feel is good but can be improved. 

 

Biggest thing I learned was the effect the state of motor tune can have on the level of stress on the oil. While that sounds self evident what isn't, is the fact that the motor can be running fine, scope looks good and she's giving no tells and yet....something is amiss a professional can ferret out.

 

As anal as my program is...it's needs to get tougher. So be it.

 

What great service Dyson gives.

 

 

Edited October 20, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

First of a few tweaks based on oil analysis. I removed the K&N drop in and installed a FRAM CA8755A Extra Guard which will be changed on 10K intervals. Silicon was high. While I found no dust in the plenum and the filter showed daylight I could see areas of the cotton media where I could drop the head of a pin through. Weird. I've used K&N for 40 years without issues and would have never seen this one without being under the microscope. Live and learn. 

 

Test showed elevated levels of water and fuel which I believe was due to the sample timing. (cold motor start) That said we will be testing coils and injectors and changing plugs to be safe. Going over the vent system what can be addressed that is. 

 

It also was conveyed that the copper level (rod big end) looked high. The guess was some water reactive additive. Contact with Red Line and sharing the report got a resounding NO. There lab sees no issue with the copper levels but made notes low total add package levels. About 2/3 of normal for the mileage listed. Currently under lab investigation and until then 5K is a prudent change interval. 

[Grumpy Bear]

P0113 Intake air temperature

P2228 Barometric Pressure Sensor

And my oil pressure jumped to 35-40 psi all at the same time.

 

Actually I was scrolling one of the readouts when I noticed the oil pressure on the ScanGauge II then panic set in and I went to the code reader. The Check Engine light was not in, No codes found but two pending codes in memory. 

 

Of course I  had no idea when it happened what those 'pending' codes meant. Scary. I'm on the toll road with no way off for more miles than I would like to be in a state of uncertain. But the pressure was moving a bit and steady and the oil and water temps stable. Best of all the motor was whisper quite. Still.....I try to make to Jason's shop, 50 miles away, without shutting down not knowing what might happen if I turn her off. The first stage dump solenoid is closed and staying that way for whatever reason.

 

Well I didn't make it that far. Nature called and I don't leave it running unattended so hope it starts. I go for a walk. Take Rex for a walk, pop the hood had have me a look see. No foam in the filler cap. Oil level is good. Pop the PCV valve and for the first time ever I some vapor traffic...hum.

 

When I start her up oi pressure is back to normal except the "pending register" is still holding two codes. I finish the trip, make it to Jason's and he looks up the codes (above). Well once I see what they are I mention I changed the air filter yesterday and had unplugged the MAF sensor which also is the BAR and IAT coupling.

 

"Did you cycle the key" he asks.

 

"Nope, but it was a dry day an I got a nice little static pop when I went to plug it back in".

 

"Ah! ECM flipped a bit".  Made an appointment for Friday for a closer look. "Clear the register" he says. 

 

I got to it and it's empty. Second key cycle? 

 

Well all in all....vapor traffic in the PCV system? Yep. Different intake filter. I'm just guess at the moment but I note that the 6.2, 5.3 and 4.3 all use the exact same air box and filter so it's sized for the 6.2. Check. The K & N is about half the restriction of an

AC-Delco filter. Check. Ecotec3 hasn't a PCV valve and rides on the inlet box pressure between the filter and TB. Check. To get movement from the crankcase to the inlet system then the inlet box pressure needs to be below crankcase pressure. My guess is that the K & N is so free flowing that at the 1350 rpm I'm normally turning and 30 or less TB position the delta P just isn't enough to evacuate the crankcase. We are going to test that. I cleaned the PCV hose and fittings with ether and now that the oi pressure is normal I give it a look in a few days. If I'm right the line will be wet again. Then I'll reinstall the K & N, rinse and repeat. If I'm right the fuel and water issue should be solved. 

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

24 hours and 300 miles latter I conclude the vapor traffic was the result of the higher oil volume moved about the motor when the spool valve failed to open during the ECU hiccup. Dry as a bone again now that order has been restored. 

 

I've been adding tape to the grill to keep the radiator thermostat from cycling so much. It's allot of tape.  About 75% of the grill is blanked off like a NASCAR car. Much like last year. 

[Grumpy Bear]

Pulled and cleaned the MAF sensor and checked the earlier offenders. IAT, BAR and oil pressure sensors plus injectors and coils. Everything checked out okay. Cleaning the MAF cured a 4/5% rich condition. It wasn't oiled down. It was covered in a very fine layer of dust. (filter failure to clean the air) 366 miles later...yea...one tank does not a trend make but it did reflect a noticeable gain and a feeling of greater sharpness. We were looking for over fueling and likely found it. At least part of it. Plugs and wires on order. Book says something like 97K but next oil change looks like an opportunity. Add an XP WIX filter and recheck UOA's. That's a ways out. This change, adjust and then the end of the next change.  

[Grumpy Bear]

October reflected an 8% increase in mpg over the preceding two years combine average. 27.9 mpg for the month. 

 

Got a recall notice in the mail yesterday for the electronic power steering. A simple ECM re-flash. On the to do  list for Friday. Still one in the drawer for the seatbelt IF it ever fails and it looks like it will not. I see a possible axle recall as well for improper heat treat. Need a VIN check on that one.  

[Grumpy Bear]

PSM flashed. Recall list checked. Axles are NOT an issue with Pepper. Air bag/seat belt recall ancient history. All up to date.

 

Comparison of UOA with another member who uses Blackstone and results in from Phillips on UOA. Make is so #1. Seems all is good. Phillips did note that the residual additive package reported by Dyson seemed across the board to be about 30% low. A calibration of reference standard their best guess. Will remember to collect the batch number on next few changes to compare with production labs and run a blind with Dyson to confirm.

 

 

Edited November 7, 2018 by Grumpy Bear
Grammar

[Grumpy Bear]

Just an interesting little graphic of the number of miles per month I drive Pepper since I bought her. 

 

 

My pattern is driving the most miles in the third most efficient month. Hum....

 

 

Spend some time having these a look and the conclusion I draw is that mpg is less a function of fuel and more one of climate. In October for instance this year 7 of 9 tanks were as high as her lifetime average, a full 2 mpg above the combine October average. Roughly 10% higher.  Winter fuel in an unusually warm and windless October produced September like results. Good to know. 

 

 

Edited November 13, 2018 by Grumpy Bear
additional content

[Grumpy Bear]

Going through this thread and picking out some data and adding data as I collect it got this graph constructed. Best fit for the trend line was an exponential line defined in the equation shown. Learned a bit about the data collection during the process. 5F difference or more sometimes between wind direction for example. so two way averages on (newer data). Temp is affected by hot soak so numbers shown are after warm up, then hot soak which raised the temperature and then the cool back number is the one shown (new data). Recovery number if you will. It's a work in progress, a live document. 

 

Line shifts with speed FYI thus a constant for this study. Wind was a hint, yes?  

 

6L80E. Trans stat modified. 180 F radiator stat. Factory Cold Side Cooling Only. Red Line D6 Fluid 90% dilution. 

 

 

(Updated chart in later post)

 

I love doing this stuff. 

Edited December 11, 2018 by Grumpy Bear
Modified Graph