Grumpy Bears 2015 Silverado 2WD

[Grumpy Bear]

Crazy stretch of warm fairly dry weather resulted in a road trip of about 325 miles which laid down a nice fine layer of road salt dust. We need a good hard rain. This called for a total wash upside down, inside out and backward. Rex does the wheels.    Looks like my winter mileage is going to hover around 24 mpg. I'm actually good with that even though it's dragging the life time average down a bit. Is it spring yet? 

[Grumpy Bear]

We caught up on snow fall in the last ten days and now have an excess above what is normal. Pepper isn’t going anywhere and neither did my thread on the idea of one truck per person for life.

 

Thing is, there is allot of winter left and while Pepper may be in lock down my mind isn’t. It’s a curse. I’ll dot the landscape with the journeys of my thoughts…..about Pepper.

 

There’s this thing people do when they get a new vehicle they call making it their own. Except it isn’t actually getting that done. It makes it like everyone else. Like a tattoo or a nose ring. Baggy pants and ‘victory beards’ when there is nothing to win. If everyone has it, it isn’t really unique, is it?

 

There is a good deal of parts swapping on the ‘rumor mill’ theory. Consumer Reviews say blah-blah-blah so everyone ditches whatever it is that didn’t get a million likes to buy something that did. It may be good for the economy of someone, just not mine.

 

I like stock unless stock isn’t getting it done. Thing is, I won’t know if I ditch it before it reveals itself. Like the stock Bridgestone All Season reviews say are junk in the rain, noisy and wear out looking at them. My experience is quite good with them. Quite, great wet braking traction and wearing like iron. Will I try something else? Likely. Just not before I squeeze all the goodies out of this set. Amazing what effect a great alignment, proper inflation and rotation have on longevity and performance.

 

There are some things I will and have changed, like rust proofing, mud flaps and clear bras and UV/IR window tint. Things where later is always too late. Don’t waste the lessons of a life’s experience.

 

I don’t tend to change things that take away from functionality, comfort, efficiency, durability or reliability. But I will change in a New York second a part that shows itself to be hindering any of the preceding or one that seems designed to waste my money to line another’s pockets. I didn’t buy the thing to be a slot machine for the merchants whose bank is my wallet.

 

I bought it to enjoy and to drive and yes, that may mean I buy something that isn’t a functional winner just because I like it. I don’t pretend to dislike it for ‘cause’ to gain approval and I don’t change a thing to another’s liking. Seems a good number of people come to a forum for just that reason. They all end up looking the same.

 

Is it summer yet? Poor Pepper. 

Edited February 13, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Just talking to myself and making mental notes. Relax. I'm crazy and you already know that. 

 

In a perfect world a cylinder is round and taper free when at temperature and all things properly torqued. Tis handy if you’re trying to seal cylinder pressure. Means a gapless round ring nicely sealed to the ring land provides leak free sealing that assures maximum power and minimum blow by. Just lovely.

 

What conditions would that be I wonder? Besides the forgoing mentioned? A ring that is round at proper piston clearance and preload whose end gaps are such as to be gas tight at operating temperatures and pressures. Whose side clearance is such as to provide adequate back pressure sealing and yet not so loose as to assist in pressure flutter. (Different than RPM based flutter.)

 

Sounds pretty conditional. It is. It also means those conditions, considering unavoidable wear are in fact finite.

 

It additionally means there is a set of conditions where operation is as perfect as it is likely to get. Those would be the conditions of normal operation. Ring gap and side clearance being at minimum at full operations temperatures and pressures. Piston clearance assisting in stable operations based on like conditions.

 

As much as we would like to believe these conditions are not met at either full load nor during the warmup process. Meaning ideal rest in the heart of operations. Fully warmed at moderate loads.

 

What could that possibly mean? Lowest leakage rates occur during full warm and lightly loaded conditions. Funny thing. These are also the conditions for minimum wear!

 

High cylinder pressures increase pressure back loading of the compression rings. Both top and second. That shouldn’t be hard to imagine. Press a lawn mower blade with greater force against a grinding wheel and material is removed at a greater rate. Logic 101. The harder you put your foot in it the higher the cylinder pressure the faster she wears out.

 

The faster the parts rub together the faster they wear out as well. Analogous to RPM. Rub your hands together rapidly and you will get the idea.

 

Pressure and speed increase heat in addition to wear. Increased heat lowers lubrication effectiveness. Heat is not only generated by speed and load but a failure to remove heat exacerbates the condition. Read that radiator issues or silly high water (thermostat) or lube oil temperatures.

 

Longevity of ring life therefore hinges on some pretty basic concepts.

 

1.)        Easy on cylinder loading.  

2.)        Moderate RPM.

3.)        Reasonable water temperatures

4.)        Reasonable oil temperatures.

5.)        Good oil flow

6.)        Good oil filtration

7.)        Good oil changed at reasonable intervals.

 

Odd or not these same principles apply to low water content in the oil and low oil mist carryover into the inlet system via PCV systems.

 

Now here some sick humor. In a time when the EPA and manufactures goals are pushing operating conditions to practical limits for the sake of economy and emissions, operators are pushing limits of lubrication and cooling past, and  in the opposite direction of all reasonable and practical limits of durability. And then we complain. Now that’s insanely funny.

Well I’m not laughing. These things are not cheap and I’m not rich.

 

1.)        I drive easy on the pedal and more so until warmed up.

2.)        I plan my trips such that I have no need for speed

3.)        I measure and monitor water, and oil temperatures and pressures and when needed:

4.)        I installed a more reasonable thermostat.

5.)        Lowered Oil temperatures. (cooler on the table).

6.)        Use efficient filtration.

7.)        Use great oil

8.)        Change more often than ‘normal’. Whatever that is.

 

Has it paid off? Oh yea. In my last six NEW vehicles I’ve logged one million miles with zero dollars spent in non-routine maintenance. Not quite as well buying used. I hadn’t any initial control over their operating conditions or maintenance.

 

When I learn to keep a body rust free for longer than 20 years I’ll double these numbers. IF I live that long.

 

Ripley’s Believe it or Not. Why would I care? My wallet is flush.

[Grumpy Bear]

Drop 1.36 inches on rain on top of 24 inches of snow at 40F over two days! Roads are spanking clean the river high. Wonder if that means the boats off limits too. Pepper got some road time as did puppy and puppy pappy. All it good. All is forgiven. 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

Having years of data; trends emerge that otherwise would be unquantifiable. (55K miles)

 

Summer fuel efficiency: 27.5 mpg +/-  1.7 mpg

Winter fuel efficiency   : 24.9 mpg +/-  1.2 mpg

Overall fuel efficiency  : 26.4 mpg +/-  1.9 mpg

 

9.5% seasonal variation. I know that winter/summer blends vary in BTU content roughly 2% leaving the remaining 7.5% attributed to weather and forced alterations in driving habits weather brings about.

 

That is 80% of the winter/summer fuel debate has a cause other than the fuels seasonal RVP adjustments.

 

Lubrication fluids viscosity chief among them.

 

Edited March 12, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

 

[Grumpy Bear]

Road Trip!

 

It’s about a 300 mile round trip from my house to Edwards, Illinois; home of Hoerr Racing Products where I source my Redline lubricants and other odds-n-ends. Dan Lucas is the Executive Retail Specialist and my contact for all my needs truck.

Pepper is ready for an oil change. I’m out of stock. The weather couldn’t be better. Rex was willing and I was too. 63 F and nearly dead clam winds. Something we don’t see around here often enough. I was going to take the Buick as it does better in the wind.

There are multiple ways to get there and back and realistic routes are within 15 miles one direction the same distance. What differs greatly is time and economy. The trip can be made in three hours by Interstate and at the 70 mph posted limit in calm air Pepper is good for about 17-19 mpg or on a day like today US highways and State Routes get me there in 3.5 hours and she’s good for 28-30 mpg. Pretty much the definition of a no-brainer.

We started the day heading south on I-39. There is a stretch of about 10 miles near Rochelle where it really doesn’t matter which way you go it’s going to use up some fuel. Two interchanges, hilly and no natural cover from the generally western winds. You just have to gut it out.

Once past that we swung over to Ill 251. Runs parallel to I-39 crossing it once or twice in a hundred miles or so. Generally flat, smooth and not as well traveled. We have to run west for some time when we get close to I-80 but I select US 6 instead. This section between I-39 and the Iowa border is all but forgotten. You could hit a soup can with a 22 from US 6 if it were sitting in the middle of I-80 most of that distance.

The small ghost towns and unincorporated community’s that dot this twisty, hilly byway speak of much better times; before Ike built his Interstate project. It’s a pretty drive if you ignore the abject poverty left in the wake of progress. Quiet and unhurried and it fair shape. Just the way I like it. We head south at Ill 40. A road built going nowhere important anymore from nowhere important ever. Runs just about dead magnetic north and south through places like Buda and others that don’t even register in the blink it takes to run their lengths all called Main Street. What they share in common outside small populations and odd names is a Casey’s quick mart and at least one bar and about two churches with boards in the windows and grass grown tall in the gravel parking areas. I break west again along Ill 17 to Ill 91 and south again to Peoria County 40 then east on US 150, down a side street and into Hoerr’s parking lot. Rex is about to burst. Quick to his business as he has girlfriends with puppy treats waiting inside. They forget me soon enough but “puppy” is a lady killer that is never forgotten.

Round trip nets 28.4 mpg and 50 miles over for the oil change.

What a nice day for a drive. It’s what I bought her for.     

[Grumpy Bear]

55,000 mile service.

5W20 Red Line and WIX filter. (NAPA Gold). Under 30 hours on OLM. First time that’s happened that I can remember. Colder winter. Shorter drives. Makes sense.

Fully flushed the brake system. Check caliper slides and grease. Lots of pad left. I had intended to do this at 50K and simply forgot. 

Coolant check. -32 F in the radiator, -20 F in the tank. Add pack good. Lost some coolant when the thermostat was changed. That’s about a 5% by volume difference in glycol concentration. Prepackaged 50/50 jug measured short when I checked at home later. (cheats)

Rotate tires and check tread depths. Inspect sidewalls. I have two different tread gauges. A real cheap stick type and a more expensive dial type. They measure about ¾ of a thirty second different. I’ll check later with a an actual depth gauge. I have a nice one in the shop. For now I’ll take the lower number of the dial gauge. A shade over 7/32 remaining. (stick says 8/32).

Under carriage inspection shows some mild pealing of the undercoating in a few spots that needs some attention. When it gets warmer of course. As careful as I’ve been there is still some light salt deposits. That’s going to get a good hosing when I get a day warm enough as well. Nothing alarming.

Checking into Line-X for the bumpers. This paint chips too easy and it’s too bad now to clear bra. This will be a remove, sand blast, coat inside and out and remount when the estimate is done.

[Grumpy Bear]

Moving to a permanent oil filter.  K & P Engineering. 

Temperature. Filtration. Lubricant Quality. Volume. Pressure. 

Edited March 12, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Deleted useless post

 

 

 

Edited March 27, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

Delete junk post

 

 

 

 

 

Edited March 27, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[Grumpy Bear]

From Peppers Project Manager Rex! 

 

GM Part # 13507547. It’s description is “Trans Fluid Thermal Bypass”. Is there a reason ‘Thermostat’ doesn’t work for these people? Cost is about $75 and I ordered one to modify. It’s less than aftermarket most expensive and doesn’t require an expensive refitting of the cooler circuit as even the cheaper than factory aftermarket units do. I’m pretty sure I will be money ahead on this when I modify the original and it will look and hook up factory stock because…well….it is factory stock.

I had been told that the 2500 pickups with the 6L80 or 90 transmissions haven’t a thermal bypass in the cooler circuit but a connection block instead.  It isn’t separate either and the ‘block’ is part of the cooler piping which is, again, different than the 1500’s, Nothing is going to be easy. Or interchangeable.

 Per my VIN and onsite inspection this trucks trans cooler in indeed and fact the passenger side radiator tank. That differs from information on this site in threads where a remote filter is installed in line. After passing through the radiator it does not make a pass through the top two rows of the AC exchanger either. Lines are standard 3/8 but the fittings shown to be on the transmission are in fact those found at the radiator. In essence not one piece of information was correct.   

That said I have a starting point for this project.

Project Scope:

1.)        Shorten transmission fluid temperature warm up times.

2.)        Increase winter fluid operation temperature.

3.)        Lower summer peak load temperatures.

4.)        Targeting 170 – 190 F

Project Method: 

1.)        Bypass factory 190 F thermostat.

2.)        Collect data.

3.)        Add cooling or control end point as needed mechanically. 

                                           Dressed for Dinner

                     

Edited March 21, 2018 by Grumpy Bear

[CadillacLuke24]

Looks like you're enjoying Pepper!

 

For lights, if you want to see more, get Silverstar Ultras. 

 

If you want to see EVERYTHING, get Osram Nightbreaker Unlimiteds. I've run both. I loved the Silverstar Ultras, but the Nightbreaker Unlimiteds are INSANE. Each time I replaced the bulbs with the next one up the list I needed to re-aim my headlights. 

 

Speaking of which, if you're so inclined, there is a detailed procedure in the Factory Service Manual (which I have) for aiming the headlights. 

[Grumpy Bear]

4 hours ago, CadillacLuke24 said:

Looks like you're enjoying Pepper!

 

For lights, if you want to see more, get Silverstar Ultras. 

 

If you want to see EVERYTHING, get Osram Nightbreaker Unlimiteds. I've run both. I loved the Silverstar Ultras, but the Nightbreaker Unlimiteds are INSANE. Each time I replaced the bulbs with the next one up the list I needed to re-aim my headlights. 

 

Speaking of which, if you're so inclined, there is a detailed procedure in the Factory Service Manual (which I have) for aiming the headlights. 

Luke I love this truck in spite of all the whimper whiner blowback the K2XX receives from the forums. 

 

I have about 1400 hours on this set of bulbs and as I'm of the understanding that 2000 hours is about the limit it could be a good long while yet before I wring them dry...and I find the stock lights pretty good for the conditions I have to deal with. As you know I tour Pepper so light is important.   http://bulbfacts.com/   Color is a big deal for me and a little goes a long way. 250 degrees is huge as would be an extra 200 lumens. I don't want to be that guy everyone swears at from two miles away. What's important is you have me looking. Thanks. 

 

On another note the transmission thermal bypass valve showed up so I picked it up today. Time to open her up and see what it's going to take. When I picked it up I got a nice surprise. 30% off. $50!! 

 

 

[Grumpy Bear]

Remember when I was driving around in M5 simulating the 4.10 gear? Looking for impact of fuel mileage the goal. I never came to a conclusion as the AFM isn't in play and I couldn't get an apples to apples look. Well Pepper has learned a new trick (idiot drivers light bulb turned on). 

 

Drive away from rest in M5. At any speed between roughly 45 and 55 and now on cruise control engage the tow mode. Now toggle up to M6. It will remain in gear 5 and enable the AFM. 

 

*********************************************************************************************************************

 

Took the thermal bypass valve apart and modified it swapping the preload spring and ‘pill’ positions and turning the pill end for end then reassembled. But before I install it I need some base line information so we go for a drive. 

47 degree ambient. 50 degree under hood. From dead cold it took 3 miles to reach 160 degrees water temperature. Nearly 8 miles to reach 160 degrees oil temperature and 37 miles to reach 160 degrees transmission fluid temperature. (F) These numbers move allot with ambient temperature and engine load so I keep that in the back of my mind as I collect the data.

There are multiple exchange mediums in this system. Air. A 55/45 water/glycol mixture and two different lubricants. Both of which in my case are POA/Ester based and as I use 5W20 in Pepper they are actually only about 2 cSt apart in viscosity at 212F. 9 cSt oil and 7 cSt Transmission fluid.

Air and coolant exchange heat in the radiator core; an example of a fin fan exchanger. Then in each tank we exchange coolant temperature with lubricant temperature in what amounts to a tube in shell system. The motor oil is on the hot side tank (driver’s side) and the transmission is on the cold side (passenger side).

As GM set this transmission exchanger system up it is bypassed until the transmission fluid temperature reaches 190 F. The radiator is regulating the hot side tank to 207 F and we get about a 20/22 degree reduction in sensible heat leaving the cold side at roughly 185 F in round numbers. That means the coolant is only 5 degrees colder than the transmission fluid. Still the fin fan part of this system is large enough to hold the line under normal operating conditions.

There are two weakness with this plan. The transmission holds a bit over 12 quarts of fluid and it takes forever and a day to reach operating temperature in the winter and isn’t much of a hedge in the summer under more than moderate loads. That means in the winter the engine it being asked to rotate the transmission gears in what amounts to honey and in the summer it isn’t hard to push temperatures well past a sane operating temperature.

First step was to lower the coolant temperature which we did by a nominal 35 degrees giving a cold side temperature of 150 F. Transmission fluid does not have the same thermal capacity of the coolant mixture so it can never get that cold. More like something along the 170 F range. That’s a pretty big lever during the summer. But this doesn’t help winter warm up at all. Thus the thermal bypass modification. As long as the transmission temperature is lower than the coolant temperature the trans temperature will be drawing heat from the system thus heating to operating temperatures more rapidly with no down side to summer conditions. Will this be enough? We’ll see.