Weird No Crank-No Start Issue this morning

Colossus · June 14, 2016

There is always the 88-98 C/K series.. those were dang good trucks. All you had to worry about for major failures was the tranny every 150,000 miles.

Markbburg · September 5, 2018

On 5/27/2016 at 8:55 AM, fondupot said:

First off I'll explain my normal starting procedure. I put the key in, turn the key forward to run, but I don't crank over the key for a few seconds, then I crank the key and the truck starts no problem.

So today, I get in to go to work, put the key in, turn to run....and here is where the issue begins. I had about 1/2 second of power (the radio came on and the dash lights flashed). Then I heard an electrical "thunk" sound (best I can describe it) And then, the truck was dead. Like dead, dead. Like Doomguy impaled by Hell Knight on ultra-nightmare dead.

I tried to crank it over. Nothing. Not a sound. No clicking, no nothing. Dead.

Key fob doesn't do anything. Windows do not work. Lights to not work. Locks, overhead lights, etc etc. The truck is a 5000 lb. paper weight.

So a this point I am scratching my head. I pop the hood and check the starter fuse and starter relay. Fuse looks OK. Relay didn't show any signs of trauma, but it's impossible to know if it's bad just by looking.

So now I am stumped. And getting pissed, because I am going to be late for work. I came to my senses and thought maybe I should disconnect the Negative battery cable. So I get my socket out. Unhook it for about 30 seconds. And then reconnect. Tested the key fob. No affect. Still dead.

Then I decided then to disconnect the positive cable. So I did that, for about 30 seconds. And then reconnect. I tested with the key fob, and to my surprise I had power. The lights flicked on. So then I hop in and try to start the truck and it cranks up like normal. Drove away to work. I had to stop and get gas, and I was nervous to shut the truck off. But after filling up, it started like normal with no issues. Had to make another stop on my way to work, and it started fine again.

Really strange.

Any thoughts?

Thanks dudes/dudettes

SO this happend to me with my 2014 Sierra I bought used 4 months ago. I had to have it towed to a shop and of course for them it started right up however I had the battery negative off because while trying to start and jump my truck I found the negative was extremely hot. The shop hooked up battery and could not duplicate the issue, however they found a service bulletin about the BCM software being out of date causing no start no crank no power issues. I had them update the software today and will see how things go as of now picked her up and everything is fine here is the link for the bulletin

https://gm.oemdtc.com/7614/13257-service-update-for-inventory-and-customer-vehicles-bcm-communication-error-reprogram-bcm-2014-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

I hope this info may help with the many posts I’ve seen describing this issue!

Darmichar · September 5, 2018

11 hours ago, Markbburg said:

SO this happend to me with my 2014 Sierra I bought used 4 months ago. I had to have it towed to a shop and of course for them it started right up however I had the battery negative off because while trying to start and jump my truck I found the negative was extremely hot. The shop hooked up battery and could not duplicate the issue, however they found a service bulletin about the BCM software being out of date causing no start no crank no power issues. I had them update the software today and will see how things go as of now picked her up and everything is fine here is the link for the bulletin

https://gm.oemdtc.com/7614/13257-service-update-for-inventory-and-customer-vehicles-bcm-communication-error-reprogram-bcm-2014-chevrolet-silverado-gmc-sierra

I hope this info may help with the many posts I’ve seen describing this issue!

Perhaps this is what the link refers to, I run an ad blocker and that site refused to load. Don't these trucks have a 'battery saver' of sorts that 'disconnects' when voltage gets low to save enough for a start? If that thing went haywire and got over-aggressive couldn't it cause issues like this?

Spendit · September 5, 2018

Several similar issues posted here - Mine died about 3 weeks ago: new battery did not solve issue, new negative battery cable and things are good 10 days into it. lots of 2014's experiencing this: new cables fixed many a recent one was the park/neutral switch.....keep posting issues and soiutions

Markbburg · September 10, 2018

On 9/5/2018 at 8:31 AM, Darmichar said:

Perhaps this is what the link refers to, I run an ad blocker and that site refused to load. Don't these trucks have a 'battery saver' of sorts that 'disconnects' when voltage gets low to save enough for a start? If that thing went haywire and got over-aggressive couldn't it cause issues like this?

Well that wasn’t it! Today same shit, no crank no start did finally get dash to come to life and stated low bat. Theater bat and all is good so disconnected negative for 10min hooked back up and it started right up no problem. Ugh $420 a week ago for nothing!

Next project for me will be tear apart the dash and check the 218 ground as I’ve seen a few people find issues and fix this ground and had no issues yet. I’ll update after I get time to try this fix.

Sierra Dan · September 11, 2018

On 6/14/2016 at 5:35 PM, Colossus said:

There is always the 88-98 C/K series.. those were dang good trucks. All you had to worry about for major failures was the tranny every 150,000 miles.

My Dad had an 88 K2500 reg. Cab Long bed 4x4 454.

Tranny blew at 60k

Other than that, it had 0ver 350k when he sold it 5 years ago.

It was a farm truck used and abused.

Some minor rust at cab corners and peeling hood paint.....

Was the best GM vehicle our family ever owned.

I had a 94 short bed Z71 and sold it in 2000 with 82k.

Not 1 single issue.

So I second yournod to the c/ks from 88-98 being the best!

Edited September 11, 2018 by Sierra Dan

stackez215 · May 2, 2019

On 9/10/2018 at 6:45 PM, Markbburg said:

Well that wasn’t it! Today same shit, no crank no start did finally get dash to come to life and stated low bat. Theater bat and all is good so disconnected negative for 10min hooked back up and it started right up no problem. Ugh $420 a week ago for nothing!

Next project for me will be tear apart the dash and check the 218 ground as I’ve seen a few people find issues and fix this ground and had no issues yet. I’ll update after I get time to try this fix.

any up dates, I'm having the same issue with my 14 Rado?

Nick Jesson · February 10, 2020

I have two 2017 Chevrolet Silverado's. On Saturday my Son was driving one of them. When he stopped the vehicle and then tried to start it nothing happened!!! The lights, radio, windows, locks and everything else works but it will not start. No clicking, no turn over at all. We have around 47k miles on it and it was running fine since new. Any ideals? Let me know.

Nick

442olds · February 11, 2020

8 hours ago, Nick Jesson said:

I have two 2017 Chevrolet Silverado's. On Saturday my Son was driving one of them. When he stopped the vehicle and then tried to start it nothing happened!!! The lights, radio, windows, locks and everything else works but it will not start. No clicking, no turn over at all. We have around 47k miles on it and it was running fine since new. Any ideals? Let me know.

Nick

I have a 2018 Silverado with 42k.I had to replace the starter.LOTS of problems with starters in trucks of these years.

prone · February 17, 2020

I recently had a similar issue with my 14 sierra slt (5.3) ... truck had zero power. Completely unresponsive... i eventually got it to start and somewhat brushed it off. It happened about a week later...

Since i recently bought the truck, it was still under warranty by the (gmc) dealer... they decided they would send a tech to come look at the truck at the house.. before they towed it.

The tech couldnt figure it out, but after doing some research the night before i shimmied the negative ground cable on the battery. It had power instantly.

They replaced the negative ground, and so far so good... a bit concerning though. (hope its not a sign of things to come)

Scotty Landreneau · March 13, 2020

I been having the same issue (without the clunk noise). I’m in a 2014 Chevy Silverado 5.3L as it was dead dead and I tried disconnecting the battery with both post at the same time. At that moment I realized the negative cable was slightly warm. The volt meter was reading 12.4 volts. Then after about 2 minutes it connected them back. My truck screen went on and then started up like normal. I then let it run for 10 minutes. Turned it off and on 3 times. I left for 5 hours and came back and it was dead dead again. So I repeated the process again and it started. May be a loose ground? Or some new security feature which protects the computer? If this continues I will check my ground. If it still continues I will bring it to the dealer.

Edited March 13, 2020 by Scotty Landreneau

Nickthetech · February 10, 2021

32.5k miles 2019 LD basically the 2018 model intermittently wouldn't start always cranked over threw a bunch of basic engine codes engine start fail shop almost gave up finally it did it while onsite was the starter. Just cause it cranks over don't rule out the starter!

Shantelle · August 7, 2021

On 6/13/2016 at 11:26 AM, 20feetup said:

Have you had the issue reoccur at all? Did you have it looked at? My issue has returned even after the cable change...

Ours was the EGR valve sticking open. Wait a few min 10 to 20 then restart. It was mess but found a fix.