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you guys still finding AC delco PF63's anywhere. PF 63E is the junk e core correct?

Correct! I hope Sandy follows his own advice about not using a POS filter. In his photo is the PF63 filter common on 3.6l and newer 5.3l, the PF63 essentially being a longer version of the PF48.

 

If you look inside the mounting hole of a PF63/PF48 you see a metal shield with perforated holes protecting the pleated paper element, a metal pressure cup.....it also has a metal pressure cup/valve and a metal relief spring underneath. I always replace and band saw every new vehicle's original filter at 1000 miles to see what it catches....quite a few metal particles.

 

Now take a look at the newer PF48E and PF63E filters.....instead of a metal screen a flimsy open nylon web, no pressure cup, a flat fiber? relief valve.....this is GM's new bio friendly filter versions likely designed to reduce weight and the amount of metal in landfills. Obviously a substandard version designed to save money and get ecology brownie points. I stockpiled over 3 dozen of the PF63s for local Walmarts (seems they keep replenishing with remaining old stock PF63s) to cover my Traverse and Silverado until they hit the junk pile. No way I'm going to extended filter changes using their "E" variant crap. Also note the E uses a thinner sealing gasket and calls for 1 instead of the old 3/4 turn to tighten.....saves another 2 milligrams or so of rubber and possibly more danger of leaking or getting stuck when over-tightened by some overly ambitious mechanic.

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I ordered a bunch of them from Rockauto.com, it was cheaper then getting them locally. Even better it was not "E" ones. I keep them stored in my garage and buy the oil when its time to do an oil change. I'd recommend ordering from Rockauto. Hope that helps.

 

Daniel

The Rock Auto order I place about 6 months ago listed E core and non E core but I received PF63E's when I ordered PF63's. They gladly issued a return shipping label.

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Will never use the Fram Orange Can of Death or the Extended Guard but the Ultra filter is a tank.

I guess I am the odd one. I gave away an Ultra Guard I had for the truck and recently got an orange can in an AZ oil deal I may one day screw on to the filter's base plate.

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The Rock Auto order I place about 6 months ago listed E core and non E core but I received PF63E's when I ordered PF63's. They gladly issued a return shipping label.

 

 

Poor UPS guy. All that hard work he did carrying your filters from point A to point B............

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Be aware that the PF63E has bypass pressure than is 150% of the bypass pressure of the PF63

 

http://www.acdelcotechconnect.com/pdf/newsletters-press-releases/press-releases/2014/Oil-Filter-Redesign-ACDelco-TechConnect.pdf

Yeah, blah, blah, blah we redesigned it and turned it into a piece of crap so here's why it is better.

 

Just like the crap they published when Chrysler went to improved plastic brake pistons in their calipers in 1978 vehicles by 1980 could always spot one that wasn't retrofitted with aluminum pistons by the smoke pouring from the wheel well

 

My 2016 owner's manual specified PF63.....POS plastic valve flapper can't compare with a metallic spring valve

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Yeah, blah, blah, blah we redesigned it and turned it into a piece of crap so here's why it is better.

 

Just like the crap they published when Chrysler went to improved plastic brake pistons in their calipers in 1978 vehicles by 1980 could always spot one that wasn't retrofitted with aluminum pistons by the smoke pouring from the wheel well

 

My 2016 owner's manual specified PF63.....POS plastic valve flapper can't compare with a metallic spring valve

Not sure what Chrysler brakes have do do with GM engine oil filter bypass pressure -- but whatever.

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Well Idk if I'm gonna get bashed for this... but I have been using k&n oil filters since the first came out.. been using then for (years) so my question is are they good?

Same filter as the Mobil 1, they just have the nut on the bottom of the canister. Buy whichever one is cheapest, which in my part of the country is the Mobil 1.

EDIT: My post is wrong! K&N quit using Champion Labs to make their filters back at the end of 2013. See Nathan79's post below.

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Not sure what Chrysler brakes have do do with GM engine oil filter bypass pressure -- but whatever.

Everything to do with it - Chrysler was the just the first to go on the cheap in the late 70s when they faced bankruptcy and were trying to save every dime in manufacturing and parts........and plastic brake pistons weren't all, also first to substitute plastic in wiper control arms and a number of other substitute components that broke and failed to park. When auto companies try to reduce weight to increase mileage, gain brownie points from the Government, save the planet, or simply increase profits they usually go from metal to plastic and the customer is the one who gets shafted for their resulting design failures.

 

Never had a metal outside door handle break on any vehicle, but went through 4 plastic ones on my 3 Avalanches. And let us not forget about the plastic front fenders GM pioneered in the early 90s primarily in use on Saturns and Caddys...... a great idea that was touted in TV commercials!, They were lighter and rustproof, but in use they tended to shatter in colder climates with a slight tap or crack in two if the vehicle was lifted using the wrong jack point for an oil change. Ask yourself, "why is GM no longer making plastic front fenders and apply that to the potential for longevity of the new "E" filter design.

 

Typically manufacturers make a change and then spin whatever resulting intended (and unintended) attributes as a benefit. And as far as GM's touted greater bypass pressure with the new filter design as an advantage......since when is that a good thing? The filter's bypass valve is not meant to control oil pressure (any more than a T&P valve on a hot water heater is meant to control water pressure)....that is the job of the pressure relief valve on the oil pump.......the bypass valve in an oil filter is intended for one purpose, i.e. to redirect oil from a clogged paper filter element back to the oil galleries. If you change your filter often enough you never have to worry about a clogged filter requiring a bypass in the first place and even if it does clog the worst you get is the same as if the bypass valve pressure is too low, .i.e. future loss of oil filtration........BUT a higher pressure caused by a bypass valve pressure that set is too high may cause previously trapped particles to migrate through the paper element into the discharged oil or at the worst rupture the sealing area of or the element itself causing a catastrophic release of trapped particles and particulates from the ruptured element itself. And as far as durability and predictability of a bypass valve operation subjected to increasing age and dramatic temperature cycling.....my money's on a metal valve with metal spring over plastic or compressed resin/fiber substitutes.

 

Thanks, but for my two cents I'll stay with the original design with discharge specs specified in the owner's manual that came with the vehicle , i.e. the one originally designed for my engine a PF63 for the 2016 5.3l.

 

Easy to figure out the real manufacturer of the new save the planet "E" versions.......look through the mounting hole and for various brands on the market and when you find the similar one, ask yourself: "would you really buy that brand in the first place?"

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Well Idk if I'm gonna get bashed for this... but I have been using k&n oil filters since the first came out.. been using then for (years) so my question is are they good?

They are not what they used to be. They are cheap Korean and Mexico overpriced filters now. They are not made by Champ labs any more (No relation to Mobil 1 filters) but outsourced to those countries.

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They are not what they used to be. They are cheap Korean and Mexico overpriced filters now. They are not made by Champ labs any more (No relation to Mobil 1 filters) but outsourced to those countries.

OK well I understand that there made in mexico.. but has there product changed? Internally? I know it's 2 totally different things but my truck was assembled in Mexico and 17,000 miles into it and everything good other than a radiator issue

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The topic of oil filters is going to be as controversial and subjective as other topics such as tires, oil, catch cans...etc. In regards to the more premium filters such as Mobil 1, K&N, Amsoil, Fram Synthetic, Bosch and Wix Premiums,the differences tend to be marignal mostly the bypass valve design or material used for the filtering media. Most oil filters are made by one of a couple manufacturers, Champion being one of the bigger makers of filters. At the $8+ price point, the difference now is you're really paying more for a name. While the Mobil 1 filter offers no real advantage other than a recognizable name, you are paying more than a comparable Wix and premium Fram filter. These companies know auto enthusiast will associate the name K&N, Amsoil and Royal Purple as performance and pay a premium price for their products when really they offer nothing more than aesthetics and marketing gimmicks.

 

 

 

 

In regards to the original topic of the AC Delco PF-63 filter, looking at Amazon, the going price is $8.00, Rock Auto a little less. For that price point, you can get a much better quality filter with better media, construction and ADBV. There are filters with much better bang for the buck than the AC Delco such as the Purolator PureOne, NAPA Gold, Wix and Fram Synthetic. Anyone who really cares to research the topic more in depth should go to Bobistheoilguy.com

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Keep an eye on eBay for the PF63's. I ran across 10 of them for $40. Since our Acadia uses it and a friends Traverse that I service I picked them up. At $4.00 a filter not a bad deal.

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