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Need Front Brakes, Vibration in Steering Wheel


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So I have some pretty bad warped front rotors it feels like. Steering wheel shakes when I brake. I have a 2005 GMC 1500 SLT 4x4 with rear drum brakes.

 

It looks like my truck has the bigger 330mm front brakes (due to the rear drum brakes). Does that seem correct? I plan to order two new front 330mm rotors, and pads. Then grease up the slides when I swap them out. Should I get metallic or ceramic pads? Anything else I should do while replacing the brakes? Do I need to replace shims (comes with pads I assume) or bleed brakes? Do the front caliper pistons screw in requiring a special tool? Or just push with a C clamp?

 

Anything I need to do to the rear brakes? I've never owned a vehicle with drum brakes before...

 

There's so many options of rotors/pads, I just want to make sure I get the right stuff. Thanks!

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If I recall my previous truck correctly ('06 Sierra) yes, you will need the 330mm. I personally stick with ceramic as this is what the OE pads were. I've never did anything with shims except replace pad for pad. I definitely would bleed your brakes just so you get new fluid in the system. No special tools to push the pistons back, C clamp will work, a dual piston type clamp would be better. Rear brakes I'd inspect to see how much pad is left on the shoes. If they are getting thin I'd go ahead and replace those as well (shoes and drums). Yes there are an almost infinite number of options for replacement parts, all in what you want and willing to pay. I go with top shelf of whatever is available at the auto parts store.

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If I recall my previous truck correctly ('06 Sierra) yes, you will need the 330mm. I personally stick with ceramic as this is what the OE pads were. I've never did anything with shims except replace pad for pad. I definitely would bleed your brakes just so you get new fluid in the system. No special tools to push the pistons back, C clamp will work, a dual piston type clamp would be better. Rear brakes I'd inspect to see how much pad is left on the shoes. If they are getting thin I'd go ahead and replace those as well (shoes and drums). Yes there are an almost infinite number of options for replacement parts, all in what you want and willing to pay. I go with top shelf of whatever is available at the auto parts store.

Awesome, thanks a million. I'll go with the 330mm and just swap out the rotors and pads, using a C clamp with the old brake pads to push it back in. Are these rotors notorious for getting stuck on the hub? Any tricks or just take a rubber mallet to them to get them off?

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The only issue I had with my old truck was removing the apex screw/bolt that holds the rotor on. After the initial brake replacement I removed those bolts and didn't put them back on. If your rotor are stuck on from rust and you're replacing them, yes, bust out the hammer and tap the rotor and rotate and repeat until it comes off.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

So I got everything replaced a few weeks ago. The first week was great, nice new brakes. But now it's back to a strong vibration in my steering wheel, only when I hit the brakes. I can't imagine the new brake rotors are warped again. I double checked all brake caliper and lug nut torques...nothing was loose. What else could cause a vibration in the steering wheel only when braking?

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So I got everything replaced a few weeks ago. The first week was great, nice new brakes. But now it's back to a strong vibration in my steering wheel, only when I hit the brakes. I can't imagine the new brake rotors are warped again. I double checked all brake caliper and lug nut torques...nothing was loose. What else could cause a vibration in the steering wheel only when braking?

Pull your wheels off and double check that the rotors are sitting flat against the hub bearing flange. It is possible one of both rotors may be slightly cocked.

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