2014 Silverado Random Dead Battery - now will not stay charged

txjeeptj · February 19, 2016

I have a 2014 SIlverado LTZ Z71 5.3L that I have had for over a year with no issues.

Yesterday I drove to work, parked it for about 10 hours, then got back in it and it would not start. It did the "clicking" noise when cranking, meaning the voltage on the battery was too low.

I got a jump and drove home, dash gauge showing a little over 14 volts the whole way home - so alternator was working the entire time.

I went to an autoparts store to have the battery tested in the vehicle. They said the battery was GOOD and just needed to be charged.

I put a slow charger on it over night. This morning I checked the battery voltage and it was only 11 volts. The vehicle cranked slowly, but started. I shut it off and then after about 20 minutes I checked the battery voltage again - this time it was at 10.5 volts.

I put a multimeter in series between the negative battery terminal and the negative battery cable. There was a 2.5 amp draw. I started unplugging fuses from the engine fuse block, but nothing lowered the amperage. Then all of a sudden (after about 5 minutes) the amperage slowly dropped down to 0.40 amps and stayed there. One time it dropped down to 0.0 amps random -- I didn't even do anything to cause this. It's very confusing.

I noticed when I hit the "lock" or "unlock" button, the amperage draw jumps up to 6.5 amps (all of this is done with the dome light set to OFF)

Also, the radio would keep turning on and off whenever I open the door. There would be a faint popping noise coming from the speakers when the screen would turn off/on - this was when the voltage of the battery was at 11 volts.

Anyone know what could be the issue?

Edited February 19, 2016 by txjeeptj

chuckl1218 · February 19, 2016

My battery died after 2 ½ years, 13,000 miles on my 2014 LTZ 5.3L. It acted very strange with slow crank several times and then wouldn't start. It would jump start and run, but never restart without "help". I put it on a charger / tester which said it was completely charged and nothing wrong, but as soon as I opened the door, the voltage would drop quickly. Radio also was acting weird. It would not stay on a station properly and would not let me select a favorite until it ran a while. A lot of hissing and popping like a AM station does during a lightening storm, but it was FM.

Took it to the dealer since it is still under the bumper to bumper warranty. They rested it and said CCA was only 151 instead of 720. Replaced battery under warranty.

Edited February 19, 2016 by chuckl1218

txjeeptj · February 19, 2016

My battery died after 2 ½ years, 13,000 miles on my 2014 LTZ 5.3L. It acted very strange with slow crank several times and then wouldn't start. It would jump start and run, but never restart without "help". I put it on a charger / tester which said it was completely charged and nothing wrong, but as soon as I opened the door, the voltage would drop quickly. Radio also was acting weird. It would not stay on a station properly and would not let me select a favorite until it ran a while. A lot of hissing and popping like a AM station does during a lightening storm, but it was FM.

Took it to the dealer since it is still under the bumper to bumper warranty. They rested it and said CCA was only 151 instead of 720. Replaced battery under warranty.

Thanks, since I'm out of the bumper to bumper warranty - I'm going to take it to another autoparts store and have it tested again - I'll also ask what the CCA is. I'll report back, if you're correct - which I hope you are - I'll mark it as answered! thanks!

Juicybusa · February 20, 2016

Theses are multiplex electrical systems and must have a good battery or any number of cascading and seemingly random issues can occur. Get a new battery and stop screwing around with the bad one. Auto store testing is notoriously inaccurate.

Edited February 20, 2016 by Juicybusa

WLC · February 20, 2016

If new battery doesn't fix it check into the power door locks / remote.

aeblank · February 20, 2016

Current dropped because various modules " went to sleep " after some time after voltage was applied (when you hooked up the meter). Sure sounds like you should just get the new battery.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

O_J_Simpson · February 20, 2016

Replace the bad battery.

diyer2 · February 20, 2016

Agree with juicy, put in a new battery. IMO going this route you are working the charging system hard.

txjeeptj · February 20, 2016

Everyone was correct. Went to a different autoparts store, by the time the guy got out to the truck the voltage had dropped down to 10 volts and he said he couldn't test it.

I went ahead and bought a new battery and threw it in there, cranked right up and has been going strong since. Problem solved!

Thanks guys!

Mazzo · June 24, 2020

Hi guys I have a 2014 GMC Sierra z71, I had a stereo system with amp and sub professionally installed back in February. From day one I’ve had problems with the battery dying, swapped out the battery same problem. I came back into town drove around for awhile let it sit a couple days battery was dead again?? Went back to where I purchased the battery the did a load test it’s toast, so they warrantied it only to have the exact same problem. Keeps dying boost it drive around awhile shut it off go to restart dead. Funny thing is I let it sit for a week after it died went to try starting it and after a few cranks it started. Any ideas as to what is happening. Thanks in advance for the help.

Mazzo · June 24, 2020

Hi guys I have a 2014 GMC Sierra z71, I had a stereo system with amp and sub professionally installed back in February. From day one I’ve had problems with the battery dying, swapped out the battery same problem. I came back into town drove around for awhile let it sit a couple days battery was dead again?? Went back to where I purchased the battery the did a load test it’s toast, so they warrantied it only to have the exact same problem. Keeps dying boost it drive around awhile shut it off go to restart dead. Funny thing is I let it sit for a week after it died went to try starting it and after a few cranks it started. Any ideas as to what is happening. Thanks in advance for the help.

JudyV · December 30, 2021

Hey!

We have a '97 Chevy Silverado, and the battery went dead (only a year old), had it tested, it tested bad, had a new battery installed, within 2 days it went dead. It would jump start once, but not again. Firestone can't jump it to even get it in their garage. Now towed to a Chevy dealership. When it did jump, taking it out of "park" and putting it into "reverse" killed the battery. So odd. After that, just clicks. I think older wisdom mechanics are retiring and the dealership could be stumped. ANY ideas???

mikeyk101 · December 30, 2021

1 hour ago, JudyV said:

Hey!

We have a '97 Chevy Silverado, and the battery went dead (only a year old), had it tested, it tested bad, had a new battery installed, within 2 days it went dead. It would jump start once, but not again. Firestone can't jump it to even get it in their garage. Now towed to a Chevy dealership. When it did jump, taking it out of "park" and putting it into "reverse" killed the battery. So odd. After that, just clicks. I think older wisdom mechanics are retiring and the dealership could be stumped. ANY ideas???

You are posting in the 2014-2018 Silverado and Sierrs forum. I think you may have more luck here:

https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/forum/3-1999-2013-silverado-sierra-1500/