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Still Not Sold On A Catch Can? Check Here...


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17 minutes ago, DMT6 said:

I tried to find out the size of those with out any success. I'm using 7/16 fuel line with standard hose clamps for the catch can. I'm just letting the OEM line and connectors laying on the manifold for quick reconnect. If you find which quick disconnect it uses please let me know.

I’m going to try and contact UPR, they use them on their “plug and play” catch can kit so they must be available somewhere. 

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I tried finding the connectors but gave up and bought the OEM hose and cut the ends off and attached the hoses to the connectors. 3/8” ID Push Loc hose fits the connectors tightly enough I didn’t need hose clamps. The hose was only about $15 from the dealer. 

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This Catch-Can topic is very interesting. I have learned quite a bit browsing through the pages on this topic.

I admittedly was unaware of the consequences of Direct Injection over Port Injection. :uhoh:

I get the added concerns with Gas Direct Injection engines and will not deny the obvious cause/result.

 

Let me throw this into the topic (if not already discussed)...

Will full synthetic have the same cause and effect as the other oils?

:lurk:

 

 

Edited by migizi
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5 hours ago, 300 Blackout said:


This is a great question and one I am interested to hear the answer.

It depends on who you ask...if you ask someone that has bought a $350 catch can or someone who makes those $350 dollar cans? They'll tell you you should and that the $30-$50 cans are junk. And some probably are. Just do some research. I bought a $30 can off Amazon. It was incredibly highly rated (something like 300 positive reviews). And they were right, the thug works great. Not a plug a play can...didn't come with quality fuel hose, not very big, no drain valve. But it was real easy for me to buy $8 worth of fuel hose and fabricate mounting hardware (and the reviews told me as much). So just make the decision for yourself, do a little research, etc...but I think if you're mechanically inclined you can do just fine without spending $300

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I recently put a catch can on my 2012 non direct injection 5.3.

I went through the same ordeal about which can to buy.

This video compares a Moroso  to an RX performance. The expensive can did catch more.

I went with the Moroso figuring it was better than nothing.

 

:)

Edited by diyer2
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On 11/6/2018 at 11:41 AM, SS502 said:

Does anyone know how to get the stock quick disconnects that are on the lines that connect to the barbs? I know there are straight and 90 degree fittings. If you have a part number that would be awesome. I will never give my dealer a reason to question a mod like a catch can so I will be removing and reinstalling for any dealer visits...if I happen to break one or it gets a bit sloppy from repeated removals I’d sure like to have a few on hand. My apologies if this was covered in a different thread, still learning my way around. Thank you!

Here are the stock style connectors. 

https://www.mightymousesolutions.com/product-page/oem-quick-connects?fbclid=IwAR0j0WmYM6hNn0unTkj2wJoqNcbxembYpN2CIBSS_eljsbdz92IlAHDySZA 

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26 minutes ago, truckmann said:

Thank you truckmann VERY much. This is exactly what I was looking for ??

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On 11/9/2018 at 9:06 PM, Centex14 said:

A beer can with some steel wool works just as well as these fancy schmancy cans. All you need is a media to collect the oil and the air to flow through.


2014 z71 LTZ
Volant Intake
Borla Exhaust
Diablo
Bilstein 5100
Rough Country Level

Do you have a beer can I can buy for $200?

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On 11/12/2018 at 6:41 AM, migizi said:

Does anyone have any real life examples of intake valve carbon build up based on different types of oils? 

conventional, vs semi authentic, vs the different types of synthetics. etc?

 

 

 

Bueller?

 

 

Anyone?.jpeg

Edited by migizi
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