Turn Signals Relay/Flasher

Chino1777 · October 2, 2015

I need help to locate the turn signals relay/flasher on the 2014 Silverado 1500. Since I'm trying to upgrade my turnsignals front and back to LED's. Which I'm trying to put a LED turnsignal relay/flasher.

Willie will · October 2, 2015

Well I don't have a answer to ur question but I did change my brake/turn signals on the rear with LEDs and installed resistors.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/177251-led-install-with-resistors/

tbarn · October 2, 2015

There is no flasher. The flasher function is built into the BCM

Chino1777 · October 2, 2015

Alright, thank you for the replies.

Bob.M · May 26, 2017

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ which I replaced my rear oem 7444LL tail light bulbs with the Phillips 7443 Intense Red Vision LED Stop/Tail light bulbs which work great with the exception of hyper flashing with the turn signals. I installed the Philips 21W Vision LED CAN-bus Warning Cancellers (one per bulb) and that did not correct the hyper flashing or eliminate the dash panel error message. Do I need a higher resistance value load resistor? The Phillips unit does not provide the resistance value, just the wattage which is 21 watts. I see other load resistors online which are 50 watts 6 ohms. Should I get those?

Chino1777 · May 27, 2017

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ which I replaced my rear oem 7444LL tail light bulbs with the Phillips 7443 Intense Red Vision LED Stop/Tail light bulbs which work great with the exception of hyper flashing with the turn signals. I installed the Philips 21W Vision LED CAN-bus Warning Cancellers (one per bulb) and that did not correct the hyper flashing or eliminate the dash panel error message. Do I need a higher resistance value load resistor? The Phillips unit does not provide the resistance value, just the wattage which is 21 watts. I see other load resistors online which are 50 watts 6 ohms. Should I get those?

Yes, you should get the 50 watts 6 ohms resistors since they work with most LED application to eliminate the hyper flashing and error message on the dash panel.

Bob.M · May 28, 2017

Thanks Chino1777

Brianx220 · September 25, 2017

Ok so here is what I have tried. I've installed several led load resistors I mean 2 per light and no dice. I've wired in halogen bulbs to get it to flash the LED properly, nope the halogen works fine but LEDs turned off completely. Now I'm wanting to just give up on wiring and trying to see what is clicking when you have the signals on it has to have a relay because you can hear it clicking away right where the fuse box is.

sdeeter19555 · September 25, 2017

Ok so here is what I have tried. I've installed several led load resistors I mean 2 per light and no dice. I've wired in halogen bulbs to get it to flash the LED properly, nope the halogen works fine but LEDs turned off completely. Now I'm wanting to just give up on wiring and trying to see what is clicking when you have the signals on it has to have a relay because you can hear it clicking away right where the fuse box is.

The fact they don't flash with the halogen (assumed to be wired in parallel to the LED ) indicates to me the LED is bad or wired backwards.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Brianx220 · September 25, 2017

The LED Flashes when the signal is on but they are off when parking lights are on. And yes they are wired in Parallel to the regular bulbs. They only com3 back on if I take the halogen out of circuit and back to square one. Maybe the halogen is drawing too much power? I'm not sure what's going on...

Former advisor · March 8, 2018

It is all about the Ohms. The bcm module needs to be programmed to send and receive the correct amount via the new electronic synapses from the part/component. Otherwise it will trip an internal fault. Did you have a dealer give you a price on a one hour programming? Sometimes it is worth the $120 and sometimes they have a little feedback on what to do at home if it is doable there.

Edited March 8, 2018 by Former advisor

likestrucks1 · September 12, 2018

I have a 2014 GMC Sierra Denali, 6.6L diesel, and added LEDs to the headlights, taillights, cab roof lamps, installed a LED tailgate light bar, and replaced all of the interior bulbs with LEDs. There is no flasher unit on 2014s and up, even though you can hear a clicking noise that seems to be coming from the main fuse box in the engine bay. The clicking noise, at times, can also seem to be coming through the speaker system, specifically through the speaker on the driver door. I have no idea what causes the clicking sound, but I can guarantee you there is no relay. If you want to install LEDS, you will have to install load resistors on every wire, meaning a resistor on the load or power wire, and one on the ground wire... 2 resistors per LED bulb. For example.. you have a rear tail light with two LEDs, one white for backup, and one red for braking and turn signal. You need four (4) resistors. One for each of the two wires on the red LED (2) and one for each of the two wires on the backup LED (2).

The LEDs will get very hot, so be sure to shied anything near them from the heat. Make sure they are not in contact with anything else when possible, and secure the resistors to something metal using the mounting hole on the resistor body. The ones you can buy should have a hole so that you can mount the resistor to something structural. I included a link to the resistors most people are using and the ones I used, and a picture is uploaded. Hears a warning. The resistors come with the handy splice clamps. after I installed all of the light and resistors, which took half a day, I still had hyper-flash, which made me very frustrated. I went around and checked all the splice clamps and found one that was a little loose. If possible, hard-wire in the resistors. The message is that one stinking bad connection out of 24 splices will still leave you with hyper-flash, so you have to be absolutely sure you have solid connections. For heat shielding, I covered my cardboard templates with high quality foil... and two or three layers or wraps of the foil.

Load resistor link.

tbarn · September 12, 2018

Tip: NEVER use those wire connectors on outside of the cab!

2WRDR · December 8, 2018

As a previous electronics technician I despise the thought of adding resistors to patch(not fix) the problem when changing turn signals to LEDs. 1 because LEDs are almost 10 times more efficient than incandescent then we turn around and negate the gain by adding "load" resistors (to increase current) across the same circuit to attempt to trick the load detection. 2. Because adding these resistors which run very hot introduces potential failures or even a fire under the right circumstances. 3. Folks who are not used to proper wiring techniques may actually make their turn signal indicator system less reliable. Loss of turn signals could result in an accident. It seems from previous feedback the real fix is to change programming and that is overly expensive. Reasons 1 and 2 are enough for me that I'll leave the turn signals OEM but I did upgrade the reverse to brighter LED and may do the brake lights if they don't cause an error.