Strykers_Inc 2014 GMC Sierra Denali 6.2L (Vader)

[Strykers_Inc]

Sorry if I was unclear... I was asking if all that was required was amps and speakers to make it work with Bose. I like this upgrade just want to make sure I know what I am dealing with when the price comes down a bit.

Well, it's $3500 retail right now, and the accessory controller is another $200. I know exactly what cost is for this model, and its not going to come done very much for at least a year or two.

 

It's not compatible with bose at all. All items of the Bose system will need to be replaced. The nav, chimes, and gm vehicle controls are all controlled by the headunit. So yes, the head unit, speakers, amps, and processors are needed for it to work.

[1500fp]

I am having a hard time finding the screw in negative post that goes with the basic terminal knuconceptz sells. Does that comes with the terminal when you buy it or no? Maybe I will just get some ring terminals and use those instead.

 

Hopefully I get some nice weather this wekend and can finish the install.

[Strykers_Inc]

I am having a hard time finding the screw in negative post that goes with the basic terminal knuconceptz sells. Does that comes with the terminal when you buy it or no? Maybe I will just get some ring terminals and use those instead.

 

Hopefully I get some nice weather this wekend and can finish the install.

 

The Knukonceptz Bassik does not come with the negative post. You are going to need one if you are setting it up like mine. They have them in stock on their website. You will also need some ring terminals for connections on the isolator and the negative block.

[1500fp]

Ok cool will take a look on their site, i was trolling amazon and briefly on their actual site this morning but must have missed them.

 

All these small terminals and whatnot sure do add up quick!

 

What other mods you have lined up once you get the audio system squared away?

[Strykers_Inc]

Ok cool will take a look on their site, i was trolling amazon and briefly on their actual site this morning but must have missed them.

 

All these small terminals and whatnot sure do add up quick!

 

What other mods you have lined up once you get the audio system squared away?

 

 

I have to make a couple harnesses for my doors this weekend, then the amplifiers will be going back in for the final install. Then it's power up time, base settings for the Mosconi, setting gains with the SMD DD-1+, make speaker connections and test until I go over to Illinois and pick up door panels. Last touch will be in a couple months when I install an Alpine X110-SRA.

 

Before that will be the install of Willwood brakes all around, my sway bars front & rear, Belltech 4601 shackles for the rear, Bilstein 4600's all around, and my other set of wheels. (Waiting on a set of Michelin Premier 285/45R22's).

 

I have been waiting since last summer to finish the truck upgrades. Car Audio took it's priority until this coming spring. Once all that gets done I will finalize everything with the Alpine head unit.

 

Then I am done.......or at least until I decide its supercharger time.....or more powered auxiliary items which I have already prepared wiring for (i.e. lightbar, powered bed cover, etc)

[Strykers_Inc]

In case anyone is interested, my friend Kyle is making custom high quality speaker mounts for 6.5 inch drivers. These are made for front and rear doors 2014+ trucks and are between $50 and $60 shipped for a set of 2 mounts. Contact him at his FB page https://www.facebook.com/Kyle-Golden-Audio-Fabrication-Design-1057473470951994/?pnref=story

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Strykers_Inc]

UPDATE 160311

 

Door Panel Teaser & Mosconi Controller build in progress.

 

 

 

 

 

Stay tuned, it has only begun.............

[1500fp]

New parts are looking good!

 

Ran my power cables thru firewall today went well except i pulled part of the inner firewall grommet thru and couldn't get it back in place. That big ass fuse block with all the massive connectors is in the way and I can't get a good grip on it. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I start pulling those plugs out? I'll upload some pics to my build thread now so you can see how clean the install is going so far, thanks for showing me how to do things right the first time around!

[Strykers_Inc]

New parts are looking good!

 

Ran my power cables thru firewall today went well except i pulled part of the inner firewall grommet thru and couldn't get it back in place. That big ass fuse block with all the massive connectors is in the way and I can't get a good grip on it. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I start pulling those plugs out? I'll upload some pics to my build thread now so you can see how clean the install is going so far, thanks for showing me how to do things right the first time around!

 

Glad to here everything is coming along.Personally I wouldn't pull any plugs. Figure another way around it. If you are talking about the box under the dash, simply unbolt it and move it, get what needs to be don, and the remount it. The hardest part about that box is the fastener on top. And your welcome....

[1500fp]

I got all 3 bolts off that box under the brake pedal, that is the one i am talking about. Can i unplug all the connectors into that so i can fully remove that black box? Right now i have to try and jam my hands up behind it when its un bolted and don't have enough room to work.

[Strykers_Inc]

I got all 3 bolts off that box under the brake pedal, that is the one i am talking about. Can i unplug all the connectors into that so i can fully remove that black box? Right now i have to try and jam my hands up behind it when its un bolted and don't have enough room to work.

 

Like I said, I wouldn't unplug them. It was easy for me. I just fed the cable in and hooked it with a coat hanger and kept working it out.

[1500fp]

I got it thru fine, but the inner firewall grommet behind that black box is actually a disc shape with a slit in it (kind of looks like a crush washer right now in its messed up state since the disc is not aligned perfectly at the slit). I cant really get a good pic of it since the area is so tight. I will have to take it off again and try to fight it i guess. After i lubed up the cables they came right through, but i missed a section and i think thats what dragged on the inner grommet and pulled part of it thru. I'm sure its fine for now, but i'd like to get it back to factory.

 

I rammed a coat hanger thru from the engine bay going into the truck, and got lucky on my first try it poked right out one of the recessed holes i wanted to use, then i lubed up the cables and ripped them through. I can't believe you were able to force 0/1 gauge through that hole!!! I thought the 4 gauge was thick, holy cow!

[Strykers_Inc]

I got it thru fine, but the inner firewall grommet behind that black box is actually a disc shape with a slit in it (kind of looks like a crush washer right now in its messed up state since the disc is not aligned perfectly at the slit). I cant really get a good pic of it since the area is so tight. I will have to take it off again and try to fight it i guess. After i lubed up the cables they came right through, but i missed a section and i think thats what dragged on the inner grommet and pulled part of it thru. I'm sure its fine for now, but i'd like to get it back to factory.

 

I rammed a coat hanger thru from the engine bay going into the truck, and got lucky on my first try it poked right out one of the recessed holes i wanted to use, then i lubed up the cables and ripped them through. I can't believe you were able to force 0/1 gauge through that hole!!! I thought the 4 gauge was thick, holy cow!

 

Yep, 4 gauge is really easy especially if you have a tool like my friend Kyle has. Looks like a screwdriver with a hollow 4 gauge tube going through it. Push it through the firewall and feed the cable through the handle, then slide it off. I used a rifle-buttstock screwdriver that is about 20 inches long. Taped the 1/0 cable to the tip with a pocket style loop of TESA nylon tape and pushed it through from the engine compartment side. Once it was through I fished it from the drivers compartment with the coat hanger grabbing that TESA tape loop/pocket. Worked like a charm......but there is no way of getting two 1/0's through there without some modification. You should have only had to do a single 4 gauge, and ground everything to the frame.

[1500fp]

Dang, didnt think of that! I ended up running a power and ground thru the firewall into the back seat area connected to my 2nd battery.

[Strykers_Inc]

Dang, didnt think of that! I ended up running a power and ground thru the firewall into the back seat area connected to my 2nd battery.

 

Nothing wrong with that.