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Take a look at my spec sheet and tell me what you think


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This spec sheet was from when I installed my newest lift a year and a half ago. The tech wrote "no more adjustment" I'm guessing to clarify for all 3 of the items that have to be checked

 

92b10d48d5e846a82ead582f33aca460.jpg

 

Reason I want someone to check it out is I'm doing a complete front end rebuild and upper ball joints are on the list. I bought two types. Regular moog joints and also adjustable moog joints. Just trying to determine which I should install.

 

Do I need any more camber or caster adjustment? I can go as much as 3 degrees on either or. Here is the adjustable ball joint in the UCA

 

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Here are how the settings were previous to me removing it from the truck.

 

Forward passenger:

 

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Rear passenger:

 

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Forward driver:

 

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Rear driver:

 

8e1e032a8a9578fbf94637603a055fe3.jpg

 

I'm sure someone out there knows a lot more than I do so looking for opinions on which ball joint to officially go with. Thanks [emoji106]

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Your camber looks good, caster should be higher though. Most likely can't adjust the caster any higher without throwing the camber out of spec.

I can split the difference and do 1.5 degrees each way like this (which is how I have it set currently for both UCA's)

 

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That groove is the direction the offset joint is facing. Thing that'd be okay? I can adjust it even on the truck I'm sure. Just not sure how many shops have actually ran into adjustable ball joints lol

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You'll want to find a shop that is use to dealing with aftermarket parts and lifts.

 

1.5" each way should be perfect. Having low caster your wheels will be further back in the wheel well and possibly rub more on the wheel well liner/frame. Increasing it should fix that by rotating the spindle forward which help reduce bump steer.

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I'll give my mechanic a call over at a heavy fleet/ off road shop. He's pretty good and will know if they can do it.

 

Wouldn't rotating my spindle forward a little bit shorten the length of the tie rod toe?

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