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Ceramic Tint


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Looking to get the fronts tinted soon and everyone tells me that ceramic tint is the best way to go, on blocking out the heat. Does anyone know what type of tint is on the rear and back windshield from the factory?

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Ahh, thanks for the info.

yeah no problem. Lots of different options you can do. But yes the factory glass is imbedded and is a better product. It does have UV shielding and heat blocking properties, how it does it and the make up I dont know. Most professional tinters will use a quality a film though.

 

On trucks I have always matched the fronts and back, so make the fronts 35%. I know another popular option is to put 35% on the back over the factory and then put 5% up front, making it limo tint all the way around. This is very dark though. Or you could add i cant remember the percentage to the back to make it 20% then add 20% up front. Depends on what you want. For me personally with a truck, being thats its bigger and with towing and hauling I want to be able to see, so I keep it at 35% all the way around.

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Living in Houston area, I always went as dark (legally) as I could. Helps with the heat and would be theives trying to look in. The worst part was trying to back up a trailer at night while it's raining.

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Well, I live in Houston, too and they'll just have to write me ticket, lol. That's 5% on the fronts and 20% over the existing factory rear. I've done this on several of my trucks and it's how I'll always do it. Saves your interior from being destroyed by our lethal Houston sun and DRAMATICALLY helps keep it cooler. As far as backing a trailer up in the dark or in rain, I use additional running lights mounted at each corner of the trailer and the fenders.

 

772C0433-40A5-41E2-8922-40D2BB1ECCCA_zps

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I would make sure the tint is machine cut llumar tint.. You will be very happy

x2, if the shop doesn't use llumar go elsewhere! Machine cut makes perfect cuts with no razor blade cut marks on your windows...

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Ive had it cut both ways and dont have an issue with either but llumar is good stuff. The machines are expensive so lots of times only big chains will have them. Ive heard tinters go ways on machine cut. lots of times they still have to cut as the machine leaves excess. some windows the machine just isnt able to cut either.

 

My biggest thing is making sure they use llumar and use a tinter that doesnt use seams. On a truck there shouldnt be a need for seams, but some still do it. seams will show and have a tendency to peel. Also some tinters wont take door panels off to tint, so what they do is tuck into the window opening, which leaves a greater chance of wear on that edge. They should take the panel off to get a good seal on the bottom. Its also an added plus if they heat seal the edges.

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Talking with a window tint place, he advised me use the ceramic tint on all windows to get the full benefit of the heat blocking. The factory glass don't block the heat UV Rays. Does that sound right or is he just trying to get more $$$?

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Talking with a window tint place, he advised me use the ceramic tint on all windows to get the full benefit of the heat blocking. The factory glass don't block the heat UV Rays. Does that sound right or is he just trying to get more $$$?

That's speculation. Without a meter to back up that statement, I'd be skeptical.

 

I had my tint place to put 15% (the 20% tint was replaced by 15%) and it matches the OEM tinted windows (rears and backlight).

 

Regarding ceramic tint film, it is quite expensive to have that installed. I had the 15% ceramic film installed on my Corvette and it cost about $500 after everything is said and done. It carries a lifetime warranty which is rather useless; for my other cars, I use the regular dyed film which fades into gray overtime. The films used in my cars (both ceramic and dye) are made by Llumar and it's Llumar premium line branded Formula One.

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The dealer wanted $180 for the front to windows, which I thought was pricey. This place (highly recommended by several that has lived in the area for decades) quoted me $300 for all windows. I prefer to have my tint dark, so I'll most likely go with it...

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The dealer wanted $180 for the front to windows, which I thought was pricey. This place (highly recommended by several that has lived in the area for decades) quoted me $300 for all windows. I prefer to have my tint dark, so I'll most likely go with it...

Around here two windows is around 70-80 bucks. Full car or truck 250 or so, thats non ceramic.

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That's speculation. Without a meter to back up that statement, I'd be skeptical.

 

I had my tint place to put 15% (the 20% tint was replaced by 15%) and it matches the OEM tinted windows (rears and backlight).

 

Regarding ceramic tint film, it is quite expensive to have that installed. I had the 15% ceramic film installed on my Corvette and it cost about $500 after everything is said and done. It carries a lifetime warranty which is rather useless; for my other cars, I use the regular dyed film which fades into gray overtime. The films used in my cars (both ceramic and dye) are made by Llumar and it's Llumar premium line branded Formula One.

Agreed. Factory tint does block some, maybe not as much as window film but it does. But I agree Id want to see a test.

 

It may change by state, but im pretty sure factory tint is 35%

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Well, I live in Houston, too and they'll just have to write me ticket, lol. That's 5% on the fronts and 20% over the existing factory rear. I've done this on several of my trucks and it's how I'll always do it. Saves your interior from being destroyed by our lethal Houston sun and DRAMATICALLY helps keep it cooler. As far as backing a trailer up in the dark or in rain, I use additional running lights mounted at each corner of the trailer and the fenders.

 

772C0433-40A5-41E2-8922-40D2BB1ECCCA_zps

you and me both, 5% front 20% back, and love it. id rather pay the ticket

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