Mike1220's SLT Sierra halos, color change DRLs, and FXR retrofit w

[Mike1220]

alright, so if you want to do just a retrofit, just some halos, or just want to know how to make your headlights look 100x's cooler then stop searching cause you found the right thread!

to start, heres what the end result will be:

 

next, heres the materials you will need:

from LED Concepts:

Halos: http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/halo-kits/products/halo-headlight-kit-2014-2015-gmc-sierra?variant=878304651

Controller (you'll need 2 if you want to be able to control the halos separately from the DRLs, IMO, it increases the wow factor when you can do them separately): http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/remotes/products/colormorph-bluetooth-music-controller

Extension wire so you can have the controllers in a much safer environment. I wanted to mount mine in the cab as I don't trust many things in the long term out in Louisiana weather: http://ledconceptslighting.com/products/colormorph-extension-wire-10-feet

I am almost certain that the bluetooth controllers each come with a 4 way splitter but just incase

 

http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/led-components-1/products/colormorph-4-1-splitter

Fastheadlights:

FXR adapter plate only (for those who want to order their FXR projectors and HIDs from TRS themselves so that you can customize what you get):

http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy%5Ffxr%2Dadapter%2Dkit%2Donly

For those who want to just order everything for the retrofit, Phil has simplified it

http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=fxr%5Fretrofit%2Dkit

 

TheRetrofitSource

FXR projectors and HIDs (50W 4.5K matches OEM DRLs perfectly, also be sure to get the 3" LHD lens, you can do this with the 2.5" if you rather, but the 3.0 fits like a glove)

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html#.VScPXkI-CDU

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-amp-d2s-ballast-adapters-straight.html#.VScQjkI-CDU

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-retrorubber-butyl-glue-50245.html#.VScQrUI-CDU

 

And the tools and extra items you will need:

Dremel w/ cut off wheel

heat gun

3.5mm, 5.0mm, and 7.0mm heat shrink (you can get a pack from Harbor Freight for around $3 and you'll have some left over)

patience

couple towel to lay the lens down on

microfiber towel and glass cleaner (I recommend and love "perfect glass")

lens tinting spray and clear coat of your choice

air compressor to assist with clean up

3M double sided tape

scissors

HID harness to cut up (or you can make your own connections and such, I got lucky and had an old harness lying around)

 

I want to apologize in advance, I did the first headlight and took pics of several steps and then when doing the second headlight, I realized I didn't take pics of some things that would be helpful for the write up and so I switch from one headlight to the other in some pics

AND FINALLY THE PROCESS!!!

 

After you remove the headlights from the truck, you will want to set yourself up in a comfortable work station, lay your headlight down on its back and get your dremel ready cause its time to cut the lens off. Thankfully Phil at FasHeadlights created a video that shows where you'll need to cut

 

After you cut it open, heres what it'll look like

 

Since the chrome bezel is connected to the clear lens, you will want to undo the 2 screws at the bottom so that you can clean out behind the lens and the chrome. Also you will want to trim down the black tabs that are holding the amber pieces in place so that you can clear the lights, or smoke them like I did. I used VHT nightshades. Wanted to use Rustoleum lens tint but no one around here had it in stock (of all the Rustoleum products that Home Depot sells, of course the only thing they don't have in stock is the lens tint

 

From there, you will want to go ahead and remove the chrome reflector cup for the turn signal and the DRL strips so that you can more easily remove the OEM projector

 

you will want to pull on the black plastic around the projector to remove it from the housing, I personally used a rubber mallet and a metal push rod thing that I found lying around in my garage. I held the plastic connected to the projector, placed the rod with one end on the white tabs and used the mallet to knock the white tabs out since that is how the projector and its mount plate are held in. Once you have that free, you can unbolt the OEM projector from the plate and using the FXR adapter kit from Phil, you will want to put your FXR to the adapter plate and then after it is mounted to the adapter plate, then you will want to connect the adapter plate to the mounting plate. Before putting the adapter plate to the mounting plate, you will have to cut off the mounting posts from the OEM projector

I apologize that I did not get any pics of the back of the mounting plate or cutting off the mount tabs, but it is a self expiatory process at this point thanks to the plates that Phil made

(hadn't finished mounting the FXR to the adapter plate yet)

Next you will want to hook up the high beam shutter. The 2 red wires coming from the FXR projector are not polar sprcific, so you can just stick them into the OEM connectors for the high beam. I used the 5MM Heatsink to barely slide over the OEM connector and then the 3.5MM connector to just seal the other heatsink to the wire so that it will hold stronger. Overkill? Maybe, but peace of mind that it should never have an issue is priceless, especially since I never want to reopen this light again haha.

After you check to make sure everything is mounted securely, you can reinstall and now you are finished with the retrofit! If you are using this write up just for the retrofit, you can skip to the end to read about how to seal it (PS, it just finished raining pretty hard just now and I went out to check, no moisture! I'm extremely happy about that!) After seal up I'll show how I ran my harness. I am now realizing I don't have wires showing how all the wires are run but I will get some and add them when I can

 

Now to the halos and DRL mods

After the projects are in place, just stick your halos to the projector, next step is to drill a "mail slot" hole to run your wires through

 

Before you put the DRLs back in so that you can put in the LED strips, you will want to drill a small "mail slot" looking hole in the housing so that you can fish the wires through to the outside. I put the hole at the bottom of the housing so that I could keep the wires hidden after everything is back together on the truck.

bad picture but its the only one I have of the hole I cut

 

Take your 3M DS tape and scissors and line the inboard side of the headlight with a trail of tape so that you can stick the wires from the color changing strips to it so they aren't moving around when driving. btw, the picture shows the bottom inboard corner of the headlight (this is on the driver side headlight)

after the hole is made and the 3M tape is in place then you will want to reinstall the OEM DRLs and put in the color change strips.

Prep the color change strips to go in, you will want to cut off 9 LEDs from the strips that are going into the top DRL so that they will fit perfectly.

 

Heres how the LED strips should be placed and the wires run

 

after the LEDs are in place and the wires are run, you will put all the wires through your mail slot, and then use some of the rubber butyl to seal the hole from the inside and out. Just play with the butyl for about 10 seconds and then mash it around the wires. Make sure that you get the butyl all up on the housing and all throughout the wires so that it won't allow moisture to get through, do this on both the inside and outside to be sure that it is sealed

MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE WIRE THAT YOU NEED ALREADY THROUGH THE HOLE BECAUSE ONCE THE BUTYL IS IN PLACE, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO HAVE TO DO IS REMOVE IT so that you can move the wires

 

okay so now that you have everything done inside of the headlight that you could need to do, its time to seal it back up!

 

SEALING

 

okay so to seal the headlight back up. I went ahead and just put a line of the Butyl Rubber around the lip of the headlight, then used the heat gun to warm up the butyl so that when I pressed the lens back down, it would more easily smash down and get up all up in any openings. I did not stretch out the butyl much. I wanted a nice thick amount of butyl to help maximize the chances of sealing the headlight 100%

I didn't get a picture of this but should have, I apologize for that

After heating the butyl, I placed the lenses back in place and called it a night

The next morning, I went out and took the headlights out of my garage and sat them in the sun and rolled my truck under a EZ-Up canopy so that I could start running the wire harness for the HIDs

I made sure to leave the headlights in the direct sun so that the butyl could warm up again and probably a bit more effectively than it did by running the heat gun over it. After they sat in the sun for around 2-2.5 hours since i was so occupied with the harness, I picked up the lights and smashed the edges of the lens down one more time to make sure that the butyl was all over and the headlights were sealed

 

 

How I ran the harness

 

The harness I had a good bit of fun with (sarcastic) cause I wanted it as hidden as possible.

I went ahead and used a self tapping screw to mount the relays on the driver side directly opposite of the air box

 

As you can see I ran the wires in the dead space on the sides of the engine bay. I extended the wire going to the battery and ran it over the engine with some of the OEM wires that go across the back wall, and connected to the battery. Then I ran the other wires that went to the other headlight inside of the bar that goes across the front end and is covered by the plastic cover that has GMC on it. Hides the wires really well. I had to make an extender for that side so that it would reach the ballast. I just cut off some of the connection on an old relay I had lying around to make the extension and so so modifications were made to the harness from TRS.

The ballasts are 3M DS taped to the tops of the headlight housings

The passenger side ballast has to be turned at an angle so it will fit on account of the air box being there

to avoid having to make a

 

after the relay is in place, then you can run the wires for the LED Concepts lights. The wires will be run form the bottoms of the headlights, up the side of the grille and then up underneath the metal bar, that way all the wires are completely hidden when the plastic cover goes on. Oh and the driver boxes for all the LEDs are hidden in the bar. They are all bolted into place

Wires will go through the upper hole in this pic

you'll have to notch out some of the plastic so that the wires will fit, you should only have to do that on the passenger side, the driver side is open

boxes bolted in place

 

now some of you are probably wondering about the OEM output, well one doesn't get used but how does it connect to the relay? Well I wanted to try not to have to make another hole in the headlight if I could avoid it, so I did! I made my own little connector that would plug into the harness and used a male quick disconnect and T-tap to tap into the low beam circuit on the truck harness that plugs into the back of the headlight. The wire that you will want to tap is the yellow wire on the harness, you will ground to one of the bolts near the harness and you can just plug into the harness

 

the control boxes are mounted inside the cab, this is where the 10ft extensions come into place. The DRLs will all be hooked to a splitter which will have to be hardwired to the 10ft extension and then the wires will be run down the side of the engine bay, and then through to the driver side door jam where you can run the wires through the same hole where all of your wires for your electronics on the door run. Just pull the weather proofing boot off and then run the wires through and then put the boot back on. This will leave you with plenty of wire still in the cab so that your mounting locations can stay as plentiful as possible, but still limited

Your RGB wires will follow the red line

The control boxes pull power from the cig lighters under the infotainment system

 

I hope this helps everyone out who is looking to do something similar. I searched for a long time but couldn't find any write ups about how to do all this work so I wanted to make it as informative as possible and hopefully I achieved that. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask or PM me. If you need more pics of anything, I can get them for you

 

I also want to give a HUGE thanks to a few people for help that they have given me, I want to thank Dcarl for letting me know how to remove the OEM projector mounting plate, Johnny_KCCO and Stevencox93 for letting me know how they tinted lenses on their trucks, and Phil from Fastheadlights for making great products and helpful videos

[Cayne]

Looks awesome, man. I want to do something like this to my SLE headlights eventually. I really regret not getting an SLT lol

[Mike1220]

Looks awesome, man. I want to do something like this to my SLE headlights eventually. I really regret not getting an SLT lol

 

 

Thanks man, took a long 2 days of work to get the headlights done and then to get everything wired in and hidden. But it was a long 2 days that were very well spent. Came out better than I had thought and now I have the know how to do it.

I wonder what could be done with the SLE lights. IE could you simply open the lights and replace the DRLs to have the SLT DRLs, I know they wouldn't work like the SLTs do from the factory, but if you put LED strips in there like I did then that could be your DRLs

 

just a random thought

[Newm]

Awesome write up....thank you!

[V1ZION]

Looks great. I have a few questions if you don't mind. When you turn the truck off, do the halos turn off to, or do you need to turn them off manually with the remote? And say if you turn them off will they stay off till you turn them back on. Second, do your factory strips still work? And could you grab an up close of the headlights? I just want to see what the strips look like. Also did you go with the remote option, or the Bluetooth phone control. Looks great dude and nice write up.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Badnewcastle]

Might try something like this with my SLE's one day.

[Mike1220]

Looks great. I have a few questions if you don't mind. When you turn the truck off, do the halos turn off to, or do you need to turn them off manually with the remote? And say if you turn them off will they stay off till you turn them back on. Second, do your factory strips still work? And could you grab an up close of the headlights? I just want to see what the strips look like. Also did you go with the remote option, or the Bluetooth phone control. Looks great dude and nice write up.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks man! And yes the factory strips still work just like they did before.

The halos and color changing strips in the DRLs are controlled 110% by my remote (my phone since yes I did use the Bluetooth controllers so I could use my phone as remote). If the lights are off and you turn on the truck, they will stay off until you turn them on via remote. If they are on and you turn the truck off, then they will stay on until you turn them off.

You can wire them differently so they pull power from the RAP circuit and will only work when the truck is running, if you do that, then they will turn on and off with the ignition.

Are you looking for an up close with the lights on or off?

Also would you like the close up of the lights opened or after they are sealed back up? Opened I have limited up close pics

[V1ZION]

Thanks man! And yes the factory strips still work just like they did before.

The halos and color changing strips in the DRLs are controlled 110% by my remote (my phone since yes I did use the Bluetooth controllers so I could use my phone as remote). If the lights are off and you turn on the truck, they will stay off until you turn them on via remote. If they are on and you turn the truck off, then they will stay on until you turn them off.

You can wire them differently so they pull power from the RAP circuit and will only work when the truck is running, if you do that, then they will turn on and off with the ignition.

Are you looking for an up close with the lights on or off?

Also would you like the close up of the lights opened or after they are sealed back up? Opened I have limited up close pics

Thanks for answering. I'd like to see an up close closed. I just want to see how it looks with the strip in there.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[emena1129]

Sick man looks good

[NitroDatsik]

Looks badass. Bet it took you as long to write this then to do the lights lol.

[Aaron1085]

Holy cow, what a write up. Just to confirm, that FXR link you provided showing a price of $349 is for the projectors, but the work still needs to be done yourself?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

[dcarl]

alright, so if you want to do just a retrofit, just some halos, or just want to know how to make your headlights look 100x's cooler then stop searching cause you found the right thread!

to start, heres what the end result will be:

 

next, heres the materials you will need:

from LED Concepts:

Halos: http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/halo-kits/products/halo-headlight-kit-2014-2015-gmc-sierra?variant=878304651

Controller (you'll need 2 if you want to be able to control the halos separately from the DRLs, IMO, it increases the wow factor when you can do them separately): http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/remotes/products/colormorph-bluetooth-music-controller

Extension wire so you can have the controllers in a much safer environment. I wanted to mount mine in the cab as I don't trust many things in the long term out in Louisiana weather: http://ledconceptslighting.com/products/colormorph-extension-wire-10-feet

I am almost certain that the bluetooth controllers each come with a 4 way splitter but just incase

 

http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/led-components-1/products/colormorph-4-1-splitter

Fastheadlights:

FXR adapter plate only (for those who want to order their FXR projectors and HIDs from TRS themselves so that you can customize what you get):

http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy%5Ffxr%2Dadapter%2Dkit%2Donly

For those who want to just order everything for the retrofit, Phil has simplified it

http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=fxr%5Fretrofit%2Dkit

 

TheRetrofitSource

FXR projectors and HIDs (50W 4.5K matches OEM DRLs perfectly, also be sure to get the 3" LHD lens, you can do this with the 2.5" if you rather, but the 3.0 fits like a glove)

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html#.VScPXkI-CDU

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-amp-d2s-ballast-adapters-straight.html#.VScQjkI-CDU

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-retrorubber-butyl-glue-50245.html#.VScQrUI-CDU

 

And the tools and extra items you will need:

Dremel w/ cut off wheel

heat gun

3.5mm, 5.0mm, and 7.0mm heat shrink (you can get a pack from Harbor Freight for around $3 and you'll have some left over)

patience

couple towel to lay the lens down on

microfiber towel and glass cleaner (I recommend and love "perfect glass")

lens tinting spray and clear coat of your choice

air compressor to assist with clean up

3M double sided tape

scissors

HID harness to cut up (or you can make your own connections and such, I got lucky and had an old harness lying around)

 

I want to apologize in advance, I did the first headlight and took pics of several steps and then when doing the second headlight, I realized I didn't take pics of some things that would be helpful for the write up and so I switch from one headlight to the other in some pics

AND FINALLY THE PROCESS!!!

 

After you remove the headlights from the truck, you will want to set yourself up in a comfortable work station, lay your headlight down on its back and get your dremel ready cause its time to cut the lens off. Thankfully Phil at FasHeadlights created a video that shows where you'll need to cut

 

After you cut it open, heres what it'll look like

 

Since the chrome bezel is connected to the clear lens, you will want to undo the 2 screws at the bottom so that you can clean out behind the lens and the chrome. Also you will want to trim down the black tabs that are holding the amber pieces in place so that you can clear the lights, or smoke them like I did. I used VHT nightshades. Wanted to use Rustoleum lens tint but no one around here had it in stock (of all the Rustoleum products that Home Depot sells, of course the only thing they don't have in stock is the lens tint

 

From there, you will want to go ahead and remove the chrome reflector cup for the turn signal and the DRL strips so that you can more easily remove the OEM projector

 

you will want to pull on the black plastic around the projector to remove it from the housing, I personally used a rubber mallet and a metal push rod thing that I found lying around in my garage. I held the plastic connected to the projector, placed the rod with one end on the white tabs and used the mallet to knock the white tabs out since that is how the projector and its mount plate are held in. Once you have that free, you can unbolt the OEM projector from the plate and using the FXR adapter kit from Phil, you will want to put your FXR to the adapter plate and then after it is mounted to the adapter plate, then you will want to connect the adapter plate to the mounting plate. Before putting the adapter plate to the mounting plate, you will have to cut off the mounting posts from the OEM projector

I apologize that I did not get any pics of the back of the mounting plate or cutting off the mount tabs, but it is a self expiatory process at this point thanks to the plates that Phil made

(hadn't finished mounting the FXR to the adapter plate yet)

Next you will want to hook up the high beam shutter. The 2 red wires coming from the FXR projector are not polar sprcific, so you can just stick them into the OEM connectors for the high beam. I used the 5MM Heatsink to barely slide over the OEM connector and then the 3.5MM connector to just seal the other heatsink to the wire so that it will hold stronger. Overkill? Maybe, but peace of mind that it should never have an issue is priceless, especially since I never want to reopen this light again haha.

After you check to make sure everything is mounted securely, you can reinstall and now you are finished with the retrofit! If you are using this write up just for the retrofit, you can skip to the end to read about how to seal it (PS, it just finished raining pretty hard just now and I went out to check, no moisture! I'm extremely happy about that!) After seal up I'll show how I ran my harness. I am now realizing I don't have wires showing how all the wires are run but I will get some and add them when I can

 

Now to the halos and DRL mods

After the projects are in place, just stick your halos to the projector, next step is to drill a "mail slot" hole to run your wires through

 

Before you put the DRLs back in so that you can put in the LED strips, you will want to drill a small "mail slot" looking hole in the housing so that you can fish the wires through to the outside. I put the hole at the bottom of the housing so that I could keep the wires hidden after everything is back together on the truck.

bad picture but its the only one I have of the hole I cut

 

Take your 3M DS tape and scissors and line the inboard side of the headlight with a trail of tape so that you can stick the wires from the color changing strips to it so they aren't moving around when driving. btw, the picture shows the bottom inboard corner of the headlight (this is on the driver side headlight)

after the hole is made and the 3M tape is in place then you will want to reinstall the OEM DRLs and put in the color change strips.

Prep the color change strips to go in, you will want to cut off 9 LEDs from the strips that are going into the top DRL so that they will fit perfectly.

 

Heres how the LED strips should be placed and the wires run

 

after the LEDs are in place and the wires are run, you will put all the wires through your mail slot, and then use some of the rubber butyl to seal the hole from the inside and out. Just play with the butyl for about 10 seconds and then mash it around the wires. Make sure that you get the butyl all up on the housing and all throughout the wires so that it won't allow moisture to get through, do this on both the inside and outside to be sure that it is sealed

MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE WIRE THAT YOU NEED ALREADY THROUGH THE HOLE BECAUSE ONCE THE BUTYL IS IN PLACE, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO HAVE TO DO IS REMOVE IT so that you can move the wires

 

okay so now that you have everything done inside of the headlight that you could need to do, its time to seal it back up!

 

SEALING

 

okay so to seal the headlight back up. I went ahead and just put a line of the Butyl Rubber around the lip of the headlight, then used the heat gun to warm up the butyl so that when I pressed the lens back down, it would more easily smash down and get up all up in any openings. I did not stretch out the butyl much. I wanted a nice thick amount of butyl to help maximize the chances of sealing the headlight 100%

I didn't get a picture of this but should have, I apologize for that

After heating the butyl, I placed the lenses back in place and called it a night

The next morning, I went out and took the headlights out of my garage and sat them in the sun and rolled my truck under a EZ-Up canopy so that I could start running the wire harness for the HIDs

I made sure to leave the headlights in the direct sun so that the butyl could warm up again and probably a bit more effectively than it did by running the heat gun over it. After they sat in the sun for around 2-2.5 hours since i was so occupied with the harness, I picked up the lights and smashed the edges of the lens down one more time to make sure that the butyl was all over and the headlights were sealed

 

 

How I ran the harness

 

The harness I had a good bit of fun with (sarcastic) cause I wanted it as hidden as possible.

I went ahead and used a self tapping screw to mount the relays on the driver side directly opposite of the air box

 

As you can see I ran the wires in the dead space on the sides of the engine bay. I extended the wire going to the battery and ran it over the engine with some of the OEM wires that go across the back wall, and connected to the battery. Then I ran the other wires that went to the other headlight inside of the bar that goes across the front end and is covered by the plastic cover that has GMC on it. Hides the wires really well. I had to make an extender for that side so that it would reach the ballast. I just cut off some of the connection on an old relay I had lying around to make the extension and so so modifications were made to the harness from TRS.

The ballasts are 3M DS taped to the tops of the headlight housings

The passenger side ballast has to be turned at an angle so it will fit on account of the air box being there

to avoid having to make a

 

after the relay is in place, then you can run the wires for the LED Concepts lights. The wires will be run form the bottoms of the headlights, up the side of the grille and then up underneath the metal bar, that way all the wires are completely hidden when the plastic cover goes on. Oh and the driver boxes for all the LEDs are hidden in the bar. They are all bolted into place

Wires will go through the upper hole in this pic

you'll have to notch out some of the plastic so that the wires will fit, you should only have to do that on the passenger side, the driver side is open

boxes bolted in place

 

now some of you are probably wondering about the OEM output, well one doesn't get used but how does it connect to the relay? Well I wanted to try not to have to make another hole in the headlight if I could avoid it, so I did! I made my own little connector that would plug into the harness and used a male quick disconnect and T-tap to tap into the low beam circuit on the truck harness that plugs into the back of the headlight. The wire that you will want to tap is the yellow wire on the harness, you will ground to one of the bolts near the harness and you can just plug into the harness

 

the control boxes are mounted inside the cab, this is where the 10ft extensions come into place. The DRLs will all be hooked to a splitter which will have to be hardwired to the 10ft extension and then the wires will be run down the side of the engine bay, and then through to the driver side door jam where you can run the wires through the same hole where all of your wires for your electronics on the door run. Just pull the weather proofing boot off and then run the wires through and then put the boot back on. This will leave you with plenty of wire still in the cab so that your mounting locations can stay as plentiful as possible, but still limited

Your RGB wires will follow the red line

The control boxes pull power from the cig lighters under the infotainment system

 

I hope this helps everyone out who is looking to do something similar. I searched for a long time but couldn't find any write ups about how to do all this work so I wanted to make it as informative as possible and hopefully I achieved that. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask or PM me. If you need more pics of anything, I can get them for you

 

I also want to give a HUGE thanks to a few people for help that they have given me, I want to thank Dcarl for letting me know how to remove the OEM projector mounting plate, Johnny_KCCO and Stevencox93 for letting me know how they tinted lenses on their trucks, and Phil from Fastheadlights for making great products and helpful videos

Hey Mike,

 

Glad to help. Your write up is awesome! I had no idea you were going that far with the retrofit but it looks killer. Hope your future's Bright!!!!

[Mike1220]

Looks badass. Bet it took you as long to write this then to do the lights lol.

Almost lol. Took me about 3 hours to do it but it only took that long cause I only worked on it during commercial breaks when I was watching a movie on TV haha. In reality, it took me about 45 mins to do the write up

 

Holy cow, what a write up. Just to confirm, that FXR link you provided showing a price of $349 is for the projectors, but the work still needs to be done yourself?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

The link for the projectors will get you the projectors and HID system. But yes, all the work will still need to be done to install the new projectors

 

Hey Mike,

 

Glad to help. Your write up is awesome! I had no idea you were going that far with the retrofit but it looks killer. Hope your future's Bright!!!!

Thanks man! And oh yea, if it's worth doing, then it's worth overdoing! Haha. And oh it's bright alright! Haha. I can see the road better now than I could before I tinted my windshield! Not even exaggerating! These lights are bright as all hell!

[NitroDatsik]

Are you going to be lifting your truck in the future? That's like the only thing left to do to it.

[emena1129]

Mike you live in Louisiana?