Anyone running the rough country 3.5" lift?

nismomike · March 18, 2015

I went with the RC 2.5" leveling kit. The front ended up closer to +2.75" and maybe that will settle slightly. But either way, I put 295/70/17 Terra Grapplers on and they fit and clear everything fine, although I haven't really put it through any extreme angles. I was off about 4 mph at 70 and adjusted it using a Hypertech. It seems the Hypertech has offset any mpg loss due to tires. My stock milage and post 33"/hypertech is the same. You can contact GM or your local dealer and get approval to adjust your speedometer without affecting warranty. Just get it on paper.

Stock

Edited March 18, 2015 by nismomike

Bigmoore · March 19, 2015

I went with the RC 2.5" leveling kit. The front ended up closer to +2.75" and maybe that will settle slightly. But either way, I put 295/70/17 Terra Grapplers on and they fit and clear everything fine, although I haven't really put it through any extreme angles. I was off about 4 mph at 70 and adjusted it using a Hypertech. It seems the Hypertech has offset any mpg loss due to tires. My stock milage and post 33"/hypertech is the same. You can contact GM or your local dealer and get approval to adjust your speedometer without affecting warranty. Just get it on paper.

Stock

I just ordered my 2.5" leveling kit today with 18" fuel mavericks running on 32x11.5 nitto trail grapplers. Should look pretty good when it's all said and done

Amuro · October 28, 2016

.

Edited October 28, 2016 by Amuro

Steeks · October 30, 2016

Get the upper control arms and there is no problem. There are lots of people running them with no issues. image by guycoker88, on Flickr

Is that the 3.5 level RC love the look and stance.

Bildoo · October 30, 2016

I just put a RC 2.5" level kit on with 275/65R20 Nitto Terra Grappler G2s on stock rims. I love the way my truck sits now. I stopped at dealer to see if they would correct my speedo and they told me they could only reprogram to any size tire that was a stock option. They also said they would have to contact GM to make a custom flash for that. I am thinking this is a load of crap. Compared to GPS my speedo is off by about 3 mph at 70. I'm still under warranty so I'm not going to buy a programmer I'll just deal with it. As for mpg I'm thinking I took about a 1-2 mpg hit but with a inaccurate speedo and the recent switch to winter blend gas it's hard to tell exactly. Dash still says 20 mpg with cruise set at 71mph.

Pre and post lift dimensions:

Stock,with lift, with lift and tires.

Front bumper: 21",24",24.25"

Front wheel well: 36.75",39.25",39.63"

Rear wheel well: 38.5",39.5",39.88"

Rear bumper: 16.75",17.12",17.5"

WalksAlone · October 30, 2016

I had the RC 3.5" on my 2011. It rode just fine. I got the upper control arms with it, and then I replaced the factory lowers with some moog control arms that had grease fittings on the ball joints. When I did that, I went ahead and put new sway bar end links on, oh boy. It drove so tight and smooth. That truck was amazing.

I didn't have any problems with that lift at all. I don't know if other people do, but I drove it that way for about a year and had zero issues. It's still driving around here today. The truck was so sweet it sold within a few days.

Swamphunter · October 31, 2016

I had the 3.5" RC on my 2009 Silverado. After the first 5,000 I had to replace the upper ball joints. It was the kit with their upper control arms and under warranty. After a couple calls they sent me ball joints and I just had to pay for the install. Another 5,000 miles and the lower ball joints went out, I didn't keep the truck much longer. Put a BDS on my K2 and it's a night and day difference. I strongly recommend getting a BDS kit.

Sean Neilan · October 31, 2016

RC lifts are great if you don't really plan on leaving the pavement. If you actually plan on using your lift you can't go wrong with BDS.

Edited October 31, 2016 by novembervictor

Jeff Smith · January 15, 2017

I'm running it on my 2010. Didn't get the UCA's.

This does drop the diff correctly. But there were modifications I made. At droop on the lift the uppers were probably a 45 degree angle. Not good.

So I fabbed some 1 inch steel spacers for the mounting side of the ball joints and 1" drop braces for the lowers. This gets all your angles back to factory spec. With a pretty large amount of work and need of a drill press and welder. My advice. I've got a fab tech 6" lift on my 95 and it's about 1000x better quality. Spend the extra money. My 2010 is a pavement princess. The 95 not so much that's why it's got the good stuff.

Linecapt · March 12, 2019

Now that Rough Country offers three versions of their 3.5 inch, specifically the version with the new angled/forged upper control arms with ball joints, has anyone installed these and can report on them? They seem to be the fix for past issues with ball joint angles using the factory upper control arms. What say you?

Linecapt · April 11, 2019

3.5" RC suspension lift, factory OEM cab lights, 275/60/20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Ride is similar to non-lift. Tires are noisier than stock Goodyears but the appearance is cool. Haven't had the chance to try them in the snow yet, but the ride/grip in the rain is fine.

e

JoshBarks · September 1, 2019

I had one on my 08 Silverado and kept breaking upper ball joints!

its a crapy design!

Ball joint angles are maxed out just sitting there.

i took my strut spacers off and blocks in the rear back on.

im wondering though if I could put taller spindles and put my spacers back on?

Edited September 1, 2019 by JoshBarks

WilliamBos · March 22, 2020

On 3/17/2015 at 12:28 PM, high country said:

Yes I agree with 32's a 4 inch lift isn't going to be needed, I would do a 1.75 to 2 inch level and call it a day. Bilstiens 5100 adjustables would be your best bet.

Should a set of UCA’s be bought for this?