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So.. from reading all this, can someone with 3.08s do a direct swap to 3.42 from the 9.5" rear? Like if someone lifted were taking theirs out we could buy em used?

 

I had originally hoped to go 3.73 too but from what I understand here I have the wrong diffs for that.. and I'm NOT swapping axles on my truck.

 

5300 pound towing capacity is unacceptable. My classic plus trailer would probably be more than that. I'm gonna have to make this a priority. Right now in traffic I pull 3500-4000 rpm in 1st 2nd and sometimes 3rd trying to keep up with the cars around me. The engine sounds great but I think it hurts my fuel econ and wears on my engine more than it should have to.

 

I don't plan to lift, level, or run oversized tires on mine.

Yup it will be direct swap. They are both 9.5" rear ends so nothing special to do
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Cool.. so if any of you 3.42 guys decide to swap.. come find me! :lol:

 

The shop in town (its a race shop, not a 4x4 shop so they may not know the details here) quoted me about $3500 to do the gear swap including parts to a 3.73, this is before they knew I had the 9.5 I imagine.

 

I imagine I can find it cheaper, but what was more important to me was the down time. They said 1-2 weeks?? Is this swap really that difficult?

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Cool.. so if any of you 3.42 guys decide to swap.. come find me! [emoji38]

 

The shop in town (its a race shop, not a 4x4 shop so they may not know the details here) quoted me about $3500 to do the gear swap including parts to a 3.73, this is before they knew I had the 9.5 I imagine.

 

I imagine I can find it cheaper, but what was more important to me was the down time. They said 1-2 weeks?? Is this swap really that difficult?

If I lift my truck I'll sell you my gears!

 

1 week maybe. 2 weeks is ridiculous unless they are crazy busy. I took my truck in (other truck) when the shop opened and got it back the same day. I had set an appointment so that helped plus they also ran into a problem getting the correct pinion seal which they found locally

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I just drove down to another local "offroad" shop to get a quote. He outsources his gear work, outsources his tire work and deals mostly with jeeps. :lol:

 

guess I'll keep looking for a shop to quote me this install.

 

What kinda pricing should I expect? The first place to quote me is actually an lsx/vette shop. They dont really do 4wd stuff but they will quote anything (and they're nice about it.. but they've always been real high.)

 

If I provide the gears and they provide the labor/any seals or antthing I may need?

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I just drove down to another local "offroad" shop to get a quote. He outsources his gear work, outsources his tire work and deals mostly with jeeps. [emoji38]

 

guess I'll keep looking for a shop to quote me this install.

 

What kinda pricing should I expect? The first place to quote me is actually an lsx/vette shop. They dont really do 4wd stuff but they will quote anything (and they're nice about it.. but they've always been real high.)

 

If I provide the gears and they provide the labor/any seals or antthing I may need?

My shop charged $400 an axle with me providing all the parts. They had to get a different rear pinion seal to make it work. Plus tax and shop supplies it came out to 850. All in all I had about 2k into it all. That included a new locker, new ring gears, master install kits (shop provided setup bearings) and new axles
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What kinda shops should I trust to do this kinda work?

 

4x4 shops? Billy bob's auto repair? Transmission repair? I've heard that if gears aren't set right they'll whine. Is that true for these newer vehicles?

 

Also, is the modern traction control a factor in this? I don't have the limited slip RPO code in my glovebox but if I mash it I leave 2 rubber patches. I coulda sworn some regulation made "traction control" mandatory and I do have the option to turn it off. I seem to recall thats controlled via braking (somehow) though.

 

At one point I seem to recall being told (this was back ~2003 so I dont know) that these trucks have an "electric lsd" that pulls in when a control module tells it to. That kinda baffles me since the things spinning. Surely not?

 

Last time I had a diff rebuilt it was a 71 c10 12 bolt and I went with a 3 series carrier, yukon gears, eaton posi and I had a retired dragracer set it up out of his garage.

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  • 2 months later...

AAM makes the current 9.5". here's a link to what's available. http://www.demandaam.com/axle-results?vm=GM&q=9.5%22+12+Bolt+-+Rear+Axle. Basically comes down to this, if running factory 3.08. you'll need a new carrier. If running factory 3.42, swap to 4.10 is a drop in. If using a Yukon gear set for the 9.5" 14 bolt, although this will bolt up to the stock carrier, deck height requirement on the carriers are off enough to either involve shimming the carrier off-center and dealing with it at the caliper mounts or getting a new carrier. Pinion seal is different as is the yoke diameter requiring a new 1415 yoke.

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Would I need a new carrier for the front diff if going to 3.42 from 3.08....

 

Would I need anything else?

How much?

 

I have a 9.5" 3.42 G80 if anyone needs one from when I swapped mine. Don't have the pinion, just the ring and carrier.

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It's worthless with out the pinion...Gears are a matched set.

 

RT

You cant buy a new set of gears and use the carrier to save some money? It's definitively not worthless; price a G-80 through GM

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