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Detonation on 2014 5.3 with 18k miles


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Like the title says Ive noticed some detonation coming from my 2014 5.3 with 18k miles. It happens just about every time I get on it with 50% throttle or so and doesn't let up until I get off the throttle. I use Shell or Valero 87 octane from active stations. I ran some of the Techron through it when I picked up the truck with 14k miles. Any ideas what could be going on or what I can do to get the truck running better? Im planning on a BG induction service next month. Thanks everyone!

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Like the title says Ive noticed some detonation coming from my 2014 5.3 with 18k miles. It happens just about every time I get on it with 50% throttle or so and doesn't let up until I get off the throttle. I use Shell or Valero 87 octane from active stations. I ran some of the Techron through it when I picked up the truck with 14k miles. Any ideas what could be going on or what I can do to get the truck running better? Im planning on a BG induction service next month. Thanks everyone!

 

Is this something your are monitoring through electronics?

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If it's audible from the inside of the cab you have some serious detonation. Better have it looked at pretty quickly...and if i were a betting man i would say it's from carbon build up on piston tops along with the oil consumption of these DI engines.

 

RT

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Thank you for the relies.

 

I am not monitoring through any electronics, Im just hearing a knocking/pining when I give it some throttle. I have to take the truck back to the dealer next week once the parts get in to fix the seat movement. Would this be something covered under warranty? I wouldn't think I should have detonation in such a new truck.

 

I am taking the truck on a 500 mile round trip the next couple of days so Ill be able to run out the gas and try a higher octane and post back with the results.

 

Is there anything else I can try to avoid it until the truck gets checked out? Is anyone else noticing the detonation?

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I'd put in that 93-octane gasoline immediately and see if it fixed the pinging.

 

I currently run E85 and I won't run anything with a lower octane number than 93. No pinging or detonation here.

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pinging is because the gas is detonating prematurely, so if you run a higher octane it wont detonate as early. try that first, it will fix your problem, but again if you can hear it i'd be wondering why the computer isnt compensating for it.

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... guys the running higher octane suggestion makes sense but is simply a temporary fix. Bottom line is if your truck isn't running properly on low octane (AKA what the owner's manual calls for in a 5.3) then take it in. There's no reason to run high octane unless you want to.

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This is my 3rd direct injection engine and they seem to run better if you put injector cleaner through them. I put it in twice a month.

If you are getting detonation or a miss it will trip the check engine light.

It may be a loud injector.

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from: http://www.blackbearperformance.com/faqs.asp I added the bolded parts for emphasis.

 

General Questions

  • Can I run 87 (or lower) octane with your tune?

     

    In nearly all cases, the answer is "yes, but...". 87 octane CAN be run in most vehicles, however it cannot be run efficiently in quite a few. Due to GM's choice of compression ratios, combustion chamber design, etc. 87 octane is a poor choice both in terms of engine power output as well as fuel efficiency. In those cases, it only makes sense to run a higher octane, as the performance benefits and increased fuel efficiency will outweigh the per-unit cost of that fuel.


    For an inclusive (but not fully-encompassing) list of all vehicles that can run 87 but should not (under any circumstances), see below:
    • All LS1, LS2, LS3, L99, LS7, LSA, LS9 equipped vehicles. 91+ octane required.
    • 2005+ L33 "B" engine silverado/sierra models. With a higher compression ratio than the standard 5.3L for those years, 89 octane or better is recommended for both fuel efficiency and power output.
    • 2007+ 5.3L engines. At 10:1 compression, this engine (all variants) cannot run efficiently on 87 octane. Power output and mileage will be noticably better in 95%+ vehicles simply by switching from 87 to 89 octane. 91+ preffered.
    • 2001-2007 LQ9 vehicles (AWD Cadillac Escalade, Silverado SS, Sierra Denali, Vortec Max). Compression ratios (and owners manual) dictate that premium fuel should be used at all times.
    • 2007+ 6.2L L92 (and variant) vehicles. All 6.2L truck/SUV engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio and as a result, require premium. Most of these vehicles will have a note in the owners manual as well as a decal on the gas door stating a recommendation to that effect.

     

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from: http://www.blackbearperformance.com/faqs.asp I added the bolded parts for emphasis.

 

General Questions

  • Can I run 87 (or lower) octane with your tune?

    In nearly all cases, the answer is "yes, but...". 87 octane CAN be run in most vehicles, however it cannot be run efficiently in quite a few. Due to GM's choice of compression ratios, combustion chamber design, etc. 87 octane is a poor choice both in terms of engine power output as well as fuel efficiency. In those cases, it only makes sense to run a higher octane, as the performance benefits and increased fuel efficiency will outweigh the per-unit cost of that fuel.

     

    For an inclusive (but not fully-encompassing) list of all vehicles that can run 87 but should not (under any circumstances), see below:

    • All LS1, LS2, LS3, L99, LS7, LSA, LS9 equipped vehicles. 91+ octane required.
    • 2005+ L33 "B" engine silverado/sierra models. With a higher compression ratio than the standard 5.3L for those years, 89 octane or better is recommended for both fuel efficiency and power output.
    • 2007+ 5.3L engines. At 10:1 compression, this engine (all variants) cannot run efficiently on 87 octane. Power output and mileage will be noticably better in 95%+ vehicles simply by switching from 87 to 89 octane. 91+ preffered.
    • 2001-2007 LQ9 vehicles (AWD Cadillac Escalade, Silverado SS, Sierra Denali, Vortec Max). Compression ratios (and owners manual) dictate that premium fuel should be used at all times.
    • 2007+ 6.2L L92 (and variant) vehicles. All 6.2L truck/SUV engines have a 10.5:1 compression ratio and as a result, require premium. Most of these vehicles will have a note in the owners manual as well as a decal on the gas door stating a recommendation to that effect.

 

Yea I've seen and read all this before in multiple threads (and even over the phone with them). I'm not here to start a debate but at the end of the day, like i said - if your truck is NOT running normal using the standards set in the owner's manual, you should take it in.

 

I personally ran 87 octane for the first 10k miles of my truck before switching over to 89 octane after speaking with Blackbear, trust me - I do believe them but thats not the point i am trying to make. Its the same as saying your owners manual calls for standard oil, you use conventional oil, your engine out of nowhere gets harder to start in the morning, so the solution is you have to switch to synthetic because tests show "The primary purposes of synthetic oils are to reduce engine wear during cold start-up and drive-away, and to avoid or reduce oil degradation"... NO it means take the damn thing in and have the dealer tell you that using conventional oil is causing the problem.

 

BTW - that question above is also addressed to people that HAVE a black bear tune... the OP does not I am assuming.

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Yea I've seen and read all this before in multiple threads (and even over the phone with them). I'm not here to start a debate but at the end of the day, like i said - if your truck is NOT running normal using the standards set in the owner's manual, you should take it in.

 

I personally ran 87 octane for the first 10k miles of my truck before switching over to 89 octane after speaking with Blackbear, trust me - I do believe them but thats not the point i am trying to make. Its the same as saying your owners manual calls for standard oil, you use conventional oil, your engine out of nowhere gets harder to start in the morning, so the solution is you have to switch to synthetic because tests show synthetic is more fluid... NO it means take the damn thing in and have the dealer tell you that using conventional oil is causing the problem.

 

Yeah fair enough I understand what you're saying. But you can have knocking and still be in complete compliance with the manual which also happens to state that you should switch to a higher octane fuel if you notice knocking.

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