barry G's 1996 gmc 4x4 5spd

barry G · January 31, 2015

bought this in a hurry. Spotted on craigslist for sale by a dealer 190 miles from home.

I had 5 speed gmc in my favorites for several months.

this one is black mist exterior, ruby red in.

factory build, and ordered by the first owner. this makes some confusion for non-gmc gurus.

SLT trim, no leather, and a z71 logo, with no rpo code to go with it.. or skid plates (although the spot for bolts had been busy at some point)

big rear end...but 6200 gvwr.

The 1996-1998 was near the last of the 305, and the most powerful at 230hp.

The fun facts with these truck is endless. I specifically remember this 305 with the stick shift being the first to keep up with some 5.7..and then calm down to 20mpg.

I was 18 in 1991. The new gm trucks was a big subject. I was working at a quick lube back then, and a z71 pulled in. We did a favor upon request, (although not supposed to), and removed the diff skid plate...half of the z71 package was no good to the owner.

anwyay, finally got one...just had to look it over and find what I was looking for.

GMC is like a ferrari around here...just as rare and costing too much.

I knew to doubt the z71 sticker, I had even encountered the skid plates removed from the real models for trapping crud and overheating the diff.

maine does in a lot of "special" think.

Looking through rpo codes, found no z71..somebody went happy go lucky with a sticker, I thought.

I learned the truck had to be ordered to be where it is at with given options. Power everything but seats, cruise control, a/c...5 speed.

tinted windows, functioning rear windows.

cruise controlled home at 21+ mpg..2100 rpm is 70 mph on the 3.73 diff gear.

maine has the fastest stretch of highway east of the mississippi, as it changes to 75mph to my exit to go home in northern maine.

Truck is a highway cruising super star out there. The last 110+ miles home is not even shutting off cruise control..not even once.

very smooth, aligned. The back roads to my place is crowning roads, open tundra, curves and needing precision.

Front end is rugged, no wandering. Comfortable. Do not know what the sway control is yet, obviously very good.

the rpo for tranny is mg5, and on gm's 1996 list, it is an 84mm Get Rag, 5 speed, 4.00 1st gear.

nv3500 is supposedly the same..whatver it is, outlasted all automatics with an odometer at 343000.

engine and clutch 40k miles ago..could be its third.

frame is mint.

For mods, it is getting necessary headlamp casings swapped out..and adding to a very small list as my first few days go by.

Two snowstorms and well below zero.. mods are not much on my mind right now.

Confidently surviving maine with a gmc is.

I love it so far. I counted on at least needing to do frame work or cabs, floors etc. I weld all the time..very surprised to need nothing.

Glad to be back in my favorite realm..gm v8.

this is my fourth 305, first injected.

to do list is get a bolt count on the rear diff, my first glimpse sees it is a giant..possibly 14. Will get around to my new daily driver extras soon enough.

I went though a spell of demanding egr removal..but that is my 40s+ age group relating to carbs a 305, and egr.

This one is actually clever with real controls.. will leave it alone.

Edited September 20, 2015 by txab

barry G · February 1, 2015

first purchase, I went by my bro-n-laws driveway twice, on my first ride brining it home, to realize the old lamps are so yellowed, I could not see where I was going. Grinding gears bothering the neighbors spinning tires using their driveway...all because I could not see.

This one comes with new bulbs, and will stay with the non-LED for now.

I went for a chrome looking one, as I was given a brand new lower chrome set of stainless steel, and gloss black and chrome. good looking stuff.

lights are life and death and law more than a mod..but today you can mod those too.

I also need to check which grill tab is not screwed down, or broken, while I am in there. Driver side has an unattached lower corner at the grill... looks good, no hits. I can move it. Assuming forgotten screw for now.

seeing the design of the casing, determined which LED bulbs to get

low beam has a magnifier in the casing, so top of bulb stays simple.

high beam does not have a magnifier in the casing, and wanted the Cree version for this one as well as the magnifier.

I had done a 17 bulb swap on my japanese tin can. 35 amps saved is rear quarters lasting years instead of months.

The gmc does not care..but will help the 100 amp alternator anyway. The next LED bulbs are tail lights, but in no hurry.

Heat of incandescent in my locale attracts the darndest northern things at the lamps. Also, being composite shelled lamps, cool is good..

the led watts is also gentle enough to hack in the low and high beam to be on at the same time when high beam is chosen... no extra relays. will verify if any diode or full wave rectify is needed, but it seems it will just gve a sturdy amp loaded switch in the cab.. and nothing more. The relay version of the hack for incandescent must fry that switch in due time.

diodes.. they are one way.

Edited February 1, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 1, 2015

An update on the status... I do not even know the whole truck yet. Sun was out at 10F, nice day.

I literaly bought this at dusk, last thursday evening..been 3 days, and 216 miles already. The dealer was very cool, knows all the fails common to the region. I only got a quick glimpse underneath, being sure sides of rails and all was attached.. worry about scab holes on the bottom for another day...if there was any. I was counting on at least some drama.

I spoke up about being a welder, and he said there might be something to get after on the frame, he wasn't sure...left a note in the bill of sale.

so, I got a good look around today. The cab underneath is mint condition. Rockers, floors. I mean zero errors, painted black mint condition..all the way to the front. Something to see on a brand new truck.

Going back to the forward spring shackles...mint. Gas tank, lines, straps, crossmembers... mint. Exhaust looks quite young, something shiny on a newer o2. Never saw a shiny one.

Got to driver side shock mount, and a bed beam that is right above it. That needs some attention, may scab the rail right at the mount as well. That must have been gas tank related, a one time event.

That is 30 minutes and home depot flat stock.. to be exceeding specs of factory forever.

Going all the way back there is the last two bed beams, those need a little attention, not complete rework. Only one needs a good new length run across.

Tire hanger, bumper brackets, tail end.. excellent. Will just keep it painted, looks very good.

I paid $2500... and now am very content after looking over details today. I will remember the same dealer. That whole stretch of road where this truck was at has several...southern maine. It is an interesting place for truck/car sales. I am very real about machines, build my own engines, chassis..many many hours of welding , taking on some things deemed impossible even by the best of them. I got real conversation in return. That is a first for me and dealer encounters. They must be quite satisified, no pressure to handle a customer like me.

This truck is my 22nd vehicle in 28 years. Enthusiast is not the word for me.

Trucks are very serious here as well. It is on par with big rigs, and no bullcrap, when it comes time to getting one.

I also found the high beam and low beam trick,to be on at the same time when clicking to high beam, is indeed one 10amp diode bridged. Simple. Amps must be dropped to LED, this allows one power source, no need to supercharge a relay. Will show what I do when the time comes.

2 bulbs at 194 socket are blown, and grill needs two rivets at the tabs. All the front has LED on the way, except blinkers.

Off to watch the superbowl. Seahawks are going to lose, but will watch it anyway.

Go patriots!

Edited February 1, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 2, 2015

Browsing for parts gathering, I was looking for the L30 replacement.. as I do enjoy that engine, especially given the gearing behind it.

Found a rather costly one at summit racing..long block. Good build. Compared to subarus, it is a dime for a dozen in comparison. I will pay that asking price, no problems, when the time comes. For now, this is as good as the dealer claimed under the hood. Some years to come.

A reason for going much bigger than a four banger is my move back to north central maine. I know chevys and a lot of the weakness...and that is not much. Always my favorite.

rare phenomena today. I have not recorded this cold and snowing heavy…ever. Been here 28 years. The single digits and snow, that happens occasionally. 12pm in photo, the high may not reach zero F.

So far I have lights in the mail, and oil changes scheduled on a good day. I may go brand name battery, and am in awe over just 600cca being needed to start. The early or aging computer GM should follow those numbers closely..its in the manuals.

my 1.8 liter subaru uses the same CCA..and still fnds a way to need more at times.

Edited February 2, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 3, 2015

I keep crashing my browser here..

long story short....

regular filters suck (I was a quick lube man)

just purchased the 10876 by professional products, and the acdelco oil relief I add custom to the filter. part # ACDelco 25013759

this takes 25 oil changes to pay for itself, or less..but the value is way beyond that. Even acts as a cooler...exactly consistent.

I put one of these on a 110psi subaru ea82, and it did not cave in.

they are all missing a relief to me, and I add the acdelco to the bottom. We build, we destroy, to learn.

I made a video a couple of years ago. Forgive the song..its not really my musical taste. I must have used it for the length.

Edited February 3, 2015 by barry G

sahls01gmc · February 3, 2015

Welcome to the site! Great write-ups on everything that you are doing! I look forward to seeing where you take this thing! My father-in-law has a 1997 GMC that is in near mint condition. I think I'm gonna try to get it from him when he decides to sell it.

barry G · February 3, 2015

Welcome to the site! Great write-ups on everything that you are doing! I look forward to seeing where you take this thing! My father-in-law has a 1997 GMC that is in near mint condition. I think I'm gonna try to get it from him when he decides to sell it.

Thanks.

I took on journalism just for cars with an old tin can subaru, an impossible 80s tin can.. just for the ten speed transmission.

8 years have gone by in sarcasm nearly every day. It started off by my physique being an odd shape just to drive it.

today, I could drive it the 110 miles to loring landspeed and set the 1.8 liter record for natural engines.. and then casually drive home. All the physics learned stemmed from my gm runtimes and maine.. "they are all the same" nearly applies.

I will share my welds as well, my locale has some jaw dropping surprises. I have welded at just about every subject, including impossible. My brother actually broke a frame under the door of his gmc...1990 3/4 ton model, singular headlights.

This GMC is a gem in the density and straightness, being past the 15 year mark, good clean carbon runtime. I began learning steel as a little boy, my dad has been an independent trucker for 40 years.

Not much to do on my favorite subject, with this gmc. Make some things look pretty, and a bed beam.

A unique goal for this is respecting the solid 20mpg. I have decided to leave the single pipe exhaust alone, even the factory cat. Air intake says "vortec" on it.. appears to be a lot of genuine think in the unique appearance. I vow to replace it all by the numbers, no hacks whan needing anything at all.

It whirls over maybe half a second to a second...frigid cold starts. So very confident. This thing is a rock.

Edited February 3, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 3, 2015

synchromesh genuine gm 12345349

this part number is old stock if you find it.

the replace is

Genuine GM Fluid 88900333 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid

I just had to figure that out..good thing for the net, but it seems i found it in a review at summit racing. No instructions elsewise.

expensive..but, the dealer informed me it needed a change, engine/tranny they did not get to it.

will wait it out for billet filter install.

4.25 pints is .525 gallon.

2.25 quarts means 3 jugs.

expensive oil change for half a gallon...and a quarter.

Edited February 3, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 4, 2015

this is an expensive post. will leave this one all by itself.

3 quarts = $58.44

I did use an incentive to purchase, but ...

I mentioned I had worked at a quick lube in the 90s. The gm stuff , and actually the lincoln RWD ended up being my favorite when us coworkers got talking.

A nasty reoccurence over and over again was finding lightweight motor oil in the manual tranny. The manager used to stand right next to me as I drained the plug so he could get a look and tell the customer if he has no warranty/guarantee at the quick lube, due to wrong fluid.

Remembering this, I am spending whatever it takes. A half gallon of fluid for 6200 gvwr. Damn man, get it right.

I also found tips and hints etc, just for the get rag (nv3500)

I was waiting for a tough first gear engage at 5 below last evening, as an indicator the real fluid is not installed. This one has no errors, but will start it off fresh with the new part number for fluid.

4wd is incredible, no indication in drivetrain except go forward and stop quicker. The 5 speed is like a giant subaru to drive.

Edited February 4, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 4, 2015

Truck registered, and now have a genuine antique status subaru. maine law requires a primary vehicle to be allowed an antique, it avoids abusers.

so, as of 2015, if you see a maine vehicle with antique on the plate..it is genuine, and not exactly an easy process.

Already thinking of this 5 speed truck with all the cadilac like extras, it is 19 this year.

Trucking along..

refunded for the powerfilter. Not sure what was going on there. No reasoning, just a reciept for refund. This happened to me and my subaru quest for the powerfilter as well.

Just purchased again from "terry rosebush motorsports", a demo model, 50 bucks cheaper.

Those filters shipped with an oil relief is going to make millions. Not sure where the slow poke in the marketing is, or finalizing them. Real shame. I have been a couple of years with just one, and love it.

I had evidence the subaru version when it arrived, was doing some work at a cow farm or something. Stunk like milk, and cow. Someone joked it may have been a filter being used in the cow milking process. That was hilarious. I soaked it in petrol based cleaners, and threw it on the little subaru engine with a relief custom (previous post has a video). This one coming should be just fingerprints.

Edited February 4, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 5, 2015

bought this today as well.

this is the 1996 with the 230 horse L30 5 liter.

the air box is multi boxed, with "vortec" cast on top. My bro-n-law mentioned the word spider injections, centralized fuel guided around.

I'll just get a book. I want this one to stay factory. The most robust below zero cold starts I have ever had...ever.

the fuel at 20mpg is a rock. Not sure how they did that. Cold engines typically use fuel. Maybe EGR does work.

Will read all this book has to say.

I do know the lubes and filters first hand.. serviced lots of them.

Never caught onto fuels and ignition.

I do have a pinout for the computer, and learned I can unattach the shift light if I wanted, and several simple options.

I also got looking closer, this one says SLE as a label not slt, and the z71 logo is just there apparently. Not meaning much.

the rear end is large, at ten bolt., and learned I would have to measure the ring gear to know exactly what it is.

3.73 is in the rpo codes.

this shipped with 6400 pound brakes.

learning as i go...

barry G · February 5, 2015

got the LED headlights today. Casings are due next week.

I thought I could get ahead of myself and slap the bulbs in, as this is nearly impossible to see at night. This truck must have been somebodies daytime non-winter vehicle. The dirtiest (permanent) worn old lenses I have ever encountered.Must be original. 19 years old. I did peel off some southern maine beach stickers off the windshield. Maybe some rich persons garage truck for a boat or something.

Broke one stud, and stripped the other. Put it back together for what it is, and wait out the delivery. I will appreciate getting the entire assembly as brand new. I will be adding dabs of valvoline high temp bearing grease to all screws and bolts.

The LED will stop alot of this stickiness, cold bulbs, low amps. The old tungsten bulbs in any vehicle are a very long running nightmare here. I have been on an LED kick since 2007..just before the mainstream piled in. Coincidentally, my job as a crew chief was to fix bulbs on the old planes, as well as at my year at a quick lube. My Dads rigs over the years. It seems I have been in every realm on the lights chores. Very annoying. Not a single easy going automobile, plane or tractor trailer...none.

until LED. I have been having fun with them. One power wire of old can do twice as much with LED swapping. Alot of oppurtunity to make changes. Switch back type bulbs etc. (I may do that for this one.. leave the blinker/park lenses as white mode and amber for a fog light effect..)

The powefilter is an actual go this time...shipped my way. The professional products 10876, due next week. The tranny fluid is also due next week. Maybe schedule a time to get the nose in the garage, for oil and lights swap. I would also prefer drill press for the oil filter relief on the powerfilter.

Edited February 5, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 7, 2015

Unannounced, my first tow. My subaru project had to be moved out of the driveway it was in, and an impatient old man had to have his way.

The dealer and I left off with it needing an oil change badly for this truck, and I myself do not know what the tranny oil is in for condition. Heck, I do not even know the tail ends of the frame yet..

so, I drop the oil real quick to at least get some clean oil in before towing a dolly with a subaru on it. Got a look around while under there, looks good.. until I get to the rear bumper mounts. I am scraping cheap undercoat looking paint and it does have some decay, but nothing broken or twisted. Will add a bead to feel it out with the mig this summer. I can tell its good, just needs some psi love.

towed like a dream, no creaking, nothing. I learned to use 4th gear with the nv3500.. and not overdrive, when towing. Glad to have found that before the rude interruption upon just getting to my parts gathering stages of cleaning this old truck up.

Funny enough, I had to drive the 15 miles up rte 16 and the "alton woods" to get to my destination. In this region of maine that short strange stretch is like the snake of tennesee, complete with crosses on the side of the road for those that met their end in it.

Crossed my fingers, hooked up, and enjoyed the 55mph ride down the highway..subaru on the dolly.

36 miles. 1 degree above zero.

did very good, fuel stayed at 20. Some kinda einstein with the fuel.

I also found what appears to be a large 1 inch or so line at the base of oil filter..heading to the front. only caught a glimpse, at dusk again under the truck (I pick a great time for that involuntarily). I am only guessing a genuine tow package item, oil cooler someplace. The billet filter will be a nice addon. Dropping oil, getting a good look, almost a relapse of a couple thousand times as a grunt at a quck lube. The oil was not even bad.. I am glad the dealer was cautious anyway, to mention it needed a change. It is peculiar to drive 75mph, for 35 miles..drop the oil and feel luke warm temps come across my finger.

This is one truck proving to be well taken care of.

Edited February 7, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 8, 2015

a better picture of my first tow all taken apart. Brought back the dolly today.

Towed it like it was not even there. Impressive.

that is my 28 year old subaru on the right, dolly is in the middle, truck is on the left. I must have been 35 feet long or more.. did not notice. I do go trucking alot..must be subconscious. I even took it around the dunkin donuts drive thru.

I had some time, looked over door seams, found the passenger side lower rear was not seating well. Not tight on the door latch pin. Enough to notice. I loosened wth a torx bit the door latch pin, gained an instant eighth..needed alittle more to be happy with my eye measure. I saw the innder door strucure was not a shiny black paint, but more flat at the door latch, and under interior door panel. The interior part we all see is shiny. The painter must have gone cheap skate on the mist black where no one notices.

Assuming a change that never got the BFH, I hammered out a common spot to gain on the latch, and wallah. Door good. I left a little for fatter cab corner (starts at lower back of door) and just drive around to gain a new center.

A trait I learned with other projects: With air recirc button off, windows closed, the cab should be harder to heat if all is sealed. Doing great. I am now inspired to use the recirc if its below zero. Cabin is working.

The other door has a dent lower, and will wait for good weather. The only dent noticable. Just need to be good seal for heat, health, and keeping salty roads out of the seams. The only dent noticable , and its on the door design that are very noticable on these modern years of gm trucks. they need to be perfect to avoid taking a second look at seams.

the lower rockers at bottom of door seams, will get my stainless steel welding, I did this for a subaru as well. It is all in good shape, and it gained a maine inspection easy enough. I like to take things one step extra.

I also realized today, trucking through the city, my usual treks through bangor maine got more than a few looks for this factory black fat tire z71.. the manual tranny takeoffs from busy redlights is a notable presence. Factory tint. It is a pretty truck, even dirty and less than perfect. The pinstripe going down the whole length, all the trim is there. Simply a nice truck. the only chrome, being blinged by the dark paint. I do call it pride to be driving this. This one is very quiet, I like it alot in the city. I am quite accustomed to getting looked at on the road, driving around in a 280 inch wheelbase kenworth w900...its the same feeling. Right at home at the helm.

A backroad adventure on the way home to feel out the torsion, snowy unpaid for roads with crowns and heaves and turns. Giant rally car. I am very impressed. I was paying close attention, expecting something not quite right on this first challenge on untamed roads.. its a gem. Sat back, one hand on the wheel.

I may have mentioned my car before this one (and is in the photo) is an all custom ten speed subaru, now registered as antique, with a dual port intake and rochester at 43mm. That is no slouch on the rally road subject..yet the truck would just blow its doors off.

Edited February 8, 2015 by barry G

barry G · February 9, 2015

what a relief

found a diagram..now I know I can leave the powerfilter alone as full filter.

the part# for relief I bought is the same as this 2001 diagram for the L30, and L31 engines.

It is cold as heck where I am, the death season..more than 30 days, average around zero.

It is better to underestimate without a manual than force a full filter. I knew to check around when I found some writing on pre2009 engines getting full filters, no relief.

Sure enough, this explains it. I am glad to leave the new filter alone, and simply install the billet as is. I actually have a haynes manual due tomorrow in the mail, I could only guess that would show the relief..hard telling with the modern haynes. Glad to find this on the web anyway.

The problem at first clues was a 75mph ride down the highway, for 30 miles. I get to the garage, drop the oil, and it is luke warm on my fingers.

The filter that was in it must have been nearly no flow, all of it resorts to cooler, back around, then into engine.

living and learning, my new old gmc.

that is a tip i guess..

oil stays strangely cool? the filter is doing nothing. Another trait I remembered on the 305, even before the L30... the grey that might be in the oil, and it is not lead from bearings. I have only guessed it to be the headgaskets never stop shredding...slowly but surely. Filter is a must do.

I tore into my first 305 in 1996, and there was that color grey after taking off the heads, and seeng the headgasket. No leaks to be found, yet the headgasket graphite color was in the oil, every oil change...small amounts. I used to think the worst, and that it was bearings. Just one of those things. Subarus have that same thing, after the engines went to "EJ series", but much worse...those actually have leaks.

anyway, this was a great find, less work for me, crawling around at -5F with powder snow flying.

edit:

Installed this today, 15 pounds more pressure when cold, same psi when warm idle...but very dynamical. 21 to 52psi from idle to throttle, fast acting.The two reliefs are indeed balancers between cooler and filter. Took to full warm, drove it around and gave some throttle. Very noticable change. The engine is quite powerful enough. Glad to have followed intuition. Good warmed oil now, in the cold.

I am very glad not to have needed a relief at the filter, there is not much room for one. Robust build, this is not like my other pro products billet for the little subaru. This one is deifinitely tougher, and of course a little larger.

Upon shutdown, verify hot filter, and it was.

perfect fix.

Edited February 9, 2015 by barry G