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Bilstein shocks thread


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On 7/2/2018 at 10:43 PM, SuperChevy14 said:

Dilemma guys... I have the 5100s installed on the highest setting, and I’m having a pop noise when turning at slow speeds in the front end. I also hear a different pop sound that comes from the steering column. I had the shop that installed the shocks, double check their work and they tightened down everything to specs.  And yes, they did a full alignment. My question is, have any of you all had the 5100’s installed and had front end issues and once you took it into service, was it covered under warranty? I have a full extended warranty on mine, but just curious how it may go before I go in. I’ve been told anything 2” or lower should be covered... but that’s just what others have said. Any help or opinions would be appreciated - thanks 

There is a  post in here about adding washers to center shock bolt. I did this when mine was popping and it fixed the issue. 

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1 minute ago, 2liter said:

There is a  post in here about adding washers to center shock bolt. I did this when mine was popping and it fixed the issue. 

Really? I wonder about how far back that post is. I read back several pages before posting and I didn't notice it, but could have missed it by accident

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On 10/25/2017 at 6:30 PM, Eddie 70 said:

I went out to the garage tonight when I got home and checked everything really closely. The top plate was VERY loose. The best way I found to tighten the bolt was through the fender well. Hold the wheel well liner back, rotate the shock shaft so you can hold it with a small crescent wrench. Tighten the 16MM nut on the top of the shock until it is tight against the top plate and no more movement is noticed.

 

Read this thread for pics.

page 75

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On 7/2/2018 at 9:43 PM, SuperChevy14 said:

Dilemma guys... I have the 5100s installed on the highest setting, and I’m having a pop noise when turning at slow speeds in the front end. I also hear a different pop sound that comes from the steering column. I had the shop that installed the shocks, double check their work and they tightened down everything to specs.  And yes, they did a full alignment. My question is, have any of you all had the 5100’s installed and had front end issues and once you took it into service, was it covered under warranty? I have a full extended warranty on mine, but just curious how it may go before I go in. I’ve been told anything 2” or lower should be covered... but that’s just what others have said. Any help or opinions would be appreciated - thanks 

I can't see any reason why they would cover it, you changed the struts and lifted the truck using something different than what was originally designed as well as taking off and reinstalling parts. Any lift can void the warranty, 2" isn't some magic go no go number, doesn't matter if it is 1/4" or 4"+ so who ever told you that is wrong. You lift, it can void the warranty for parts impacted. What would probably happen is they would find the install/lift the cause since it started when it was installed and either charge you to fix or just charge you the diagnostic fee and you fix. Either way I would deny it if I were the dealer as GM most likely wouldn't reimburse them for it. You have to pay to play.

 

My opinion is to have the shop that installed it trouble shoot it or do it yourself.

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
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On 3/19/2018 at 8:56 AM, Fasthotrod said:

I run BFG KO2's in 275/70R18.  I put them on long before I ever put the Bilstein shocks up front.  I only had minor rubbing on the inner fender liner, and only at full lock when turning.

 

Since putting on the Bilstein shocks at the highest setting, I've not had that problem at all.

 

Kinda hard to see it as I took the picture at dusk after installing the shocks... but it sits pretty level.  I might pop a 1" lift block in the rear to give it a little rake, but so far it's not been bad at all.  Shocks are a bit more stiff than the Ranchos, but not in a bad way.  Turns feel better without a lot of body roll, bumps are more firm and it doesn't take long to settle down after a large dip.  

Silverado Bilstein.jpg

Did you end up deciding to put a block in the back? Did you have to recalibrate speedometer with that tire size? Looking at pretty much doing this exact setup on my 2016 z71...5100's on all four, 2" RC block, and 275/70R18 ko2's

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Did you end up deciding to put a block in the back? Did you have to recalibrate speedometer with that tire size? Looking at pretty much doing this exact setup on my 2016 z71...5100's on all four, 2" RC block, and 275/70R18 ko2's
Not yet... Been to busy trying to get my shop built. Maybe once that's done I'll throw a block in the back, but so far it's been great.

I didn't recalibrate my speedo, but it's only about 5% off according to my calculations. Last speed trap I rolled through showed it almost dead nuts... but who knows how accurate those things are, or how accurate the 'real' tire size is for sure?

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So I installed just the rear 5100's along with the Hellwig swaybar.  Completely night and day difference in how connected to the road the truck feels and handles.  This is an NHT truck.  I mean it feels solid!  It feels like the shocks are actually "absorbing" the roughs in the road instead of ignoring.  It's crazy.  I'll be installing the fronts very soon.  

exhaust4.jpeg

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Well it's been a long 4 years of being cheap and waiting for the stock tires to wear down.  Tomorrow I finally install the Bilstein 5100's I ordered a couple weeks ago.  BFG KO2 tires go on on Monday.  I'm really pumped to finally make this thing look tougher.

 

What is the consensus on the rear shocks and their orientation?  Traditionally the protective rubber boot goes up, but I'm reading in this thread that people are installing them with the boot down and the Bilstein logo rightside up.  People are saying this is per Bilstein's installation guidelines.  Is this correct?  I have a mechanic doing the install for me tomorrow and I want to make sure he does it correctly.

 

Edit:  I've been doing a lot of reading and everything I can find says to go with the direction that has the Bilstein logo reading correctly rightside up....in my case that would mean that the boot is to the bottom and shock body is to the top.  Seems to be in line with what everyone here is saying.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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11 hours ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Well it's been a long 4 years of being cheap and waiting for the stock tires to wear down.  Tomorrow I finally install the Bilstein 5100's I ordered a couple weeks ago.  BFG KO2 tires go on on Monday.  I'm really pumped to finally make this thing look tougher.

 

What is the consensus on the rear shocks and their orientation?  Traditionally the protective rubber boot goes up, but I'm reading in this thread that people are installing them with the boot down and the Bilstein logo rightside up.  People are saying this is per Bilstein's installation guidelines.  Is this correct?  I have a mechanic doing the install for me tomorrow and I want to make sure he does it correctly.

 

Edit:  I've been doing a lot of reading and everything I can find says to go with the direction that has the Bilstein logo reading correctly rightside up....in my case that would mean that the boot is to the bottom and shock body is to the top.  Seems to be in line with what everyone here is saying.

Take lots of photos! 

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2 minutes ago, JamesAT18 said:

Take lots of photos! 

I will.  I haven't posted on the forum much the past couple of years as I haven't really done much to the truck after the catch can.  I took some before photos yesterday at my work parking lot since it's relatively flat.  I'm going to take some measurements today as well.  And then on Monday, I'll take some final measurements and photos and post them. 

 

My plan is to install the front 5100's on the third setting (1 down from highest) to maintain some of the forward rake.  I plan to still do some hauling as well as more towing in the future and I don't want to have what we call around here the "Carolina Squat" (no offense Carolinians).  On Monday I'm getting 275/70/R18 BFG K02's put on which will take the truck from 31" tires to 33" tires.  All in all my goal is get a little more ground clearance and tougher stance without going with a huge lift kit.  I still have a wife and kids to haul around so I'm trying to keep it practical as well.

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Here is my truck with 5100's on the third setting (one down from the top) and 1" rear lift blocks (2.25" total) with 285/55r20 tires (just over 32" tall.). I think it gave me the perfect stance.  When I hook up the ATV trailer or snowmobile trailer I'll see if it squats past level.  If that's the case I may swap out the rear blocks for add a leafs or install hellwig helper springs.  The ride from the shocks is so much better.  Much firmer and controlled.

IMG_20180706_072015203_HDR.jpg

Edited by thetruck454
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What ever you do, DO NOT BUY FROM SUMMIT RACING! My customer experience was horrendous! My first order was great, second order was delayed even when told should be there in a couple days especially when coming from same state, 3 hour drive from where I live and processed 11 hours after transaction making it a 4 day delivery! Customer service was extremely rude, BUY LOCAL!

 

 

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2 hours ago, thetruck454 said:

Here is my truck with 5100's on the third setting (one down from the top) and 1" rear lift blocks (2.25" total) with 285/55r20 tires (just over 32" tall.). I think it gave me the perfect stance.  When I hook up the ATV trailer or snowmobile trailer I'll see if it squats past level.  If that's the case I may swap out the rear blocks for add a leafs or install hellwig helper springs.  The ride from the shocks is so much better.  Much firmer and controlled.

IMG_20180706_072015203_HDR.jpg

Did you install the rear lift blocks to maintain a more stock looking forward rake, or did the 3rd setting level the truck and you needed the lift block to add the rake back in?  It's hard to tell from this angle how much rake it has.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
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