Bilstein shocks thread

Snowcamo · October 21, 2020

Well I have a strut failure. I forget how long its been, but i posted here when I installed them. Passenger front is bouncing like the black factories used to. Drivers still functions as designed. Spoke with 4 wheel parts and they will have someone ride and verify and inspect. I'll pull it and have it swapped. Will update. They say it'll be covered under bilstein warranty.

18LT · November 11, 2020

I’m a little late to the party but after dealing with a slow leak on my truck I’m ready for new tires and a leveling kit but wanted to ask a couple tires. My truck is a 18 LT. I don’t go offroading I just want a little more clearance and bigger tire for northern MI winters. so I don’t need anything too hd which after reading seems like the 5100 will give me that along with a better ride. I know the fronts can go up to around 1.8”. Do the backs raise it at all? Or what do you guys use for the rear? Also where have you guys bought yours from I didn’t really see, the, on the bilstein website. Any input is appreciated. Also I read through a lot of the posts on here just looking for a little more info.

infound this which looks like the front adjustable plus a strut spacer and 1” rear lift. But I imagine it doesn’t ride as good as without the strut spacer.

https://socalsupertrucks.com/bilstein-leveling-2-5-lift-5100-shocks-2014-2018-silverado-sierra-1500/

and these from bilsteinlifts.com is that the actual bilstein website? It says the rear shocks are 0-1”. Is rear adjustable also or what brings the rear up.
https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/chevy-gmc/silverado-1500/14-17-chevygmc-silverado-1500sierra-1500-4wd-bilstein-5100-0-1-8-front-0-1-rear-lift-shocks/

Sorry for all the questions Im sure they have been answered but I can’t find them. Just want to make sure I buy the right part

Edited November 11, 2020 by 18LT

ThundahBeagle · November 11, 2020

Hi 18LT,

The fronts are adjustable, the rears are not. Having said that, the rears a made so that the can withstand it if you did raise the rear about an extra inch. Typically, raising the rear of your truck would be don with blocks at the rear axle. A 1 inch block is really two inches. You remove the original one inch block that came with the truck and replace it with the 2 incher, giving you 1 inch of lift in the rear. I left my rear stock.

Regarding the fronts: only use the built in adjustments. Do not then also add a spacer to the fronts. I went with the highest setting and I think it looks good. Be aware that when you do that, sometimes the front might seem higher than the back. It isnt, but it might look like that to the eye. I added a leer cap to mine, that's almost a couple hundred pounds. If I then load the bed up with tools and camping gear, or some other heavy thing, it can sink down a bit and look a little foot-high. If you have the ability to, you may want to experiment putting it on the setting one down from the top, depending on what you like, and what you typically carry or tow.

I got mine from a dealer in the Jeep forums because I also have an old Grand Cherokee and I bought stuff for that through him. He will give you the best deal he can

His name is Nick, but he goes by Kolak.

Reach him at [email protected]

Tell him that the guy from Boston, who knows where he got "Kolak" from, sent you

Grumpy Bear · November 11, 2020

1 hour ago, ThundahBeagle said:

Having said that, the rears a made so that the can withstand it if you did raise the rear about an extra inch.

Exercise. Extended length minus compressed length is stroke length. 50-60% of that number is a shocks designed static stance dimension. IF you do run this exercise on a stock shock you will find that you have 9 inches of stroke but measurement on the truck unloaded will reveal the shock is 3-1/2 inches ABOVE center! Why? Because the rear shock on a pickup is fitted to be in the 50-60% of stroke range when it is at it's maximum carry load. This also means the when the truck is empty there is nearly zero rebound stroke left.

They may allow an extra inch of ride height but will still be nearly topped out at rest and that extra length won't move the compression bumper any further away.

ThundahBeagle · November 11, 2020

Hi Grumpy Bear

I have no reason to doubt your math and engineering on that. You do mention stock shocks, however. The Bilstein is a replacement to the stock shock, so I'm guessing it's designed with more stroke? They state it is designed for 0 to 1 inch of lift, so I can only presume that they have accounted for all of that?

Grumpy Bear · November 11, 2020

4 minutes ago, ThundahBeagle said:

Hi Grumpy Bear

I have no reason to doubt your math and engineering on that. You do mention stock shocks, however. The Bilstein is a replacement to the stock shock, so I'm guessing it's designed with more stroke? They state it is designed for 0 to 1 inch of lift, so I can only presume that they have accounted for all of that?

I encourage you to take or get the measurements. If you take them at their face value that would mean a shock with 5" or so more stroke. Is it? Is it really 5 inches longer that stock? Or is it a shock with 1" more stroke?

I use Kings on the rear of mine and they make the same claim but the truth is that shock is exactly the same length at the stock unit with the exact same measured stroke. 21" OAL.

Just say' n. Don't take my word, their word or anyone else. The measurements and math are to simple to get yourself.

For a guy who hauls allot of tows allot at or near maximums this matter not but if you run empty allot you can gain some rebound distance removing the factory block at minimum. It won't put you at center but it is an improvement you will notice on drop off's like pot holes.

ThundahBeagle · November 11, 2020

Thanks for the advice. Somewhere I may have a picture of the Bilstiens and the Ranchos side by side. Not exactly great for a measurement, but it might give me an idea

ThundahBeagle · November 23, 2020

And I do not have that picture. Just of the Bilstiens unboxed and installed

stevejones · November 23, 2020

I went with the 5100's on the 3rd notch, then replaced the factory Michelins with 265/70 Generals - so up a very slight 1/2" with the tires. Nothing radical, but I like the look & road manners with this combo.

ThundahBeagle · November 23, 2020

Im thinking of dropping my 5100's from top notch to 3rd. I imagine it will give a slightly better ride

Trouble_shooting · November 24, 2020

On 11/11/2020 at 10:18 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

Exercise. Extended length minus compressed length is stroke length. 50-60% of that number is a shocks designed static stance dimension. IF you do run this exercise on a stock shock you will find that you have 9 inches of stroke but measurement on the truck unloaded will reveal the shock is 3-1/2 inches ABOVE center! Why? Because the rear shock on a pickup is fitted to be in the 50-60% of stroke range when it is at it's maximum carry load. This also means the when the truck is empty there is nearly zero rebound stroke left.

They may allow an extra inch of ride height but will still be nearly topped out at rest and that extra length won't move the compression bumper any further away.

I went through a similar exercise of math when outfitting my rear axle. I ended up using Monroe Load adjusting shock part#: 58640 vs the Chevy spec. part#: 58648

The #58640 are actually spec. to a 2006 Dodge Ram. Dimensions though, allowed darn near 2” additional up travel. While only losing about a 1/4” down travel. The GM is 14mm eye compared to Dodge 9/16”

Bonus is, it lifted the rear about a 1” and firmed up the rear end. I now have installed 2 other sets on fellow K2XX owners and so far so good.

Snowcamo · November 24, 2020

I went through a similar exercise of math when outfitting my rear axle. I ended up using Monroe Load adjusting shock part#: 58640 vs the Chevy spec. part#: 58648
The #58640 are actually spec. to a 2006 Dodge Ram. Dimensions though, allowed darn near 2” additional up travel. While only losing about a 1/4” down travel. The GM is 14mm eye compared to Dodge 9/16”

Bonus is, it lifted the rear about a 1” and firmed up the rear end. I now have installed 2 other sets on fellow K2XX owners and so far so good.

Interesting. Does this make the back more smooth or just add more travel. How did you deal with mounting bolts? Thanks.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

Trouble_shooting · November 24, 2020

14 minutes ago, Snowcamo said:

Interesting. Does this make the back more smooth or just add more travel. How did you deal with mounting bolts? Thanks.

Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

The ride didn’t change much, a little less squat when loaded. One of the sets that I installed were on my wife’s truck. She didn’t notice a difference, in ride quality.

As for bolts, I used the factory bolts tighten to factory spec. No noticeable play or unusual sounds.

CbrownGT · December 8, 2020

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA? Having a hard time finding answers on this

jimbrown1 · December 8, 2020

3 hours ago, CbrownGT said:

Been trying to comb through this and utilize search function but..anyone with a 16-18 with stamped steel UCA’s running the 5100’s up front at settings 2, 3, or 4 and a stock 20 inch rim with a 33 inch tire (275/60/20 specifically) and have zero or minimal rubbing on UCA? Having a hard time finding answers on this

I have this setup but I left the front shocks at stock setting and used a Rugged Off-road spacer. This is on a 2018 Sierra Crew Cab. No rubbing with the 275/60/20 BFG tires.