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Intake manifold off with pics of intake valves with deposits.


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I forget the exact details but, going by memory, if you do the BG induction service every 15,000 miles according to their maintenance plan they will warranty your engine for up to like $5,000. That seems to at least support your theory that cleanings more often are better/safer for the engine than say every 50,000 miles where large carbon particles are likely to make their way through your ring seals and score up the cylinder walls.

 

 

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Also, as it gets thicker you will have to clean it for a longer period to get to the bottom layers that have built over the top of the older ones.

 

anyone want to do a write up on how to spray the seamfoam on the intake side to do a cleaning?

 

I tried it out at 10,000 miles. You just loosen the hose clamp on the throttle body and slip the curve end in with a little of the hose sticking out but not to long to hit the throttle blade. Then clamp it back down over it. Next, start up and have someone hold the throttle or prop it so that it's running at about 2,000 to 2,500 rpms and spray the can while upright. I tried pressing it in bursts and holding it and found it bogs when doing bursts, so I settled on constant spray but I kept it about half way down instead of full bore.

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Video....but it does not mention also spraying other half of can through vacuum line.

http://youtu.be/Vqs8QWvssmg


Rx can install video:



I installed a home made one made out of an air compressor water filter on my 07 but bought this "ADD W1" for the new truck (I may install it this weekend after seeing this thread and I will post pics)

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA1RA11E1312

or

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141295777222&alt=web

A1RA_130236975888711339ibn4sDQLVT.jpgA1RA_130236975887711281P1ITqm7lS3.jpg
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First I have to explain why I removed the intake manifold. I've had a RX catch can installed for about 6 months now. I decided the other day I was going to try to clean up the hose installation for the catch can. I purchased some expandable braided sleeving and shrink fit tubing in an effort to make the hoses look a little more factory. While trying to remove the hose that goes from the catch can to the intake manifold I broke the plastic elbow off the comes out of the intake manifold. Needless to say I was extremely pissed that I did this as I should know better then to pull on a hose like that. After doing some research at the dealer, this elbow that comes out of the intake manifold is not a replaceable item. It's basically part of the intake manifold. I thought about trying to repair the elbow but didn't like that idea. I wanted it done right and the only way I knew how to fix it was to replace the entire manifold. Cost me about $160 shipped for a new one.

 

Replacing the intake manifold didn't look too bad. Of course this theory got shot down as I started to remove the cover that goes over the intake manifold. This cover really doesn't service much purpose other then to provide holes for various plastic snap-in fittings that hold an electrical harness down. These connectors are barbed so they go in easily but don't come out with out a fight. The worst ones were behind the intake that are against the firewall. Once I finally got everything out of the way I could then remove the intake manifold along with this cover.

 

I have about 30,000 miles on my truck when I did this. The catch can has been on for the last 9,000 miles and recently added the RX clean side separator after find oil in my intake tube (http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/168584-oil-in-intake-tubeanyone-else-check-theirs/)

 

I tried to take the best pics I could of the intake valves but it's tricky to get go lighting. They all appeared to have the same amount of carbon build up on them. I didn't think there would be this much on them. Assuming the catch can prevents majority of the crankcase vapors from getting back into the motor, these deposits formed within the first 20,000 miles. I would be interested to see what an engine with no catch can looks like after 100,000 miles.

 

Valves

What are you doing with the old intake? I have an idea and would like to get. I'm willing to pay a little money.
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Video....but it does not mention also spraying other half of can through vacuum line.

 

http://youtu.be/Vqs8QWvssmg

 

 

Rx can install video:

 

 

 

I installed a home made one made out of an air compressor water filter on my 07 but bought this "ADD W1" for the new truck (I may install it this weekend after seeing this thread and I will post pics)

 

http://m.newegg.com/Product/index?itemnumber=9SIA1RA11E1312

 

or

 

http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=141295777222&alt=web

 

A1RA_130236975888711339ibn4sDQLVT.jpgA1RA_130236975887711281P1ITqm7lS3.jpg

Hello EX I'am shopping for cans have 1900 miles on the GMC. I like the looks of the ADD W 1 can looks well made much better than the RX to me and much less money. Will wait for your pics to see how you had to mount it.

Thanks

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Its obvious by the photos in the beginning of the thread that we will indeed have drivability issues earlier than a non DI engine will. I don't understand how with all of the hours and testing that GM did on this new engine that this issue exists. I know they redesigned the intake to help with the valve coking issue but I know question how many miles it will take to start having issues if a catch can or a cleaning procedure is not performed.

 

Why would GM risk earning the negative reputation that would come with millions of DI Engines in multiple models having issues like this early on in ownership in contrast to the Vortec motors that were know to be reliable and go 150k or 200k miles with ease? I know this motor has not been out very long but has anyone seen or heard of anyone with this new DI motor that has 70k or 80k miles on it with no issues related to this problem?

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Hello EX I'am shopping for cans have 1900 miles on the GMC. I like the looks of the ADD W 1 can looks well made much better than the RX to me and much less money. Will wait for your pics to see how you had to mount it.

Thanks

I did mount it yesterday. I will post process and pics tomorrow (I have weak signal where I live). I don't have a way to make a custom bracket so I had to mount to the grounding bolt by brake booster. I hope it doesn't eventually brake this bolt but it seemed sturdy enough. I could have mounted to inner fender where 2nd battery goes but I plan on adding a second battery later on.
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I did mount it yesterday. I will post process and pics tomorrow (I have weak signal where I live). I don't have a way to make a custom bracket so I had to mount to the grounding bolt by brake booster. I hope it doesn't eventually brake this bolt but it seemed sturdy enough. I could have mounted to inner fender where 2nd battery goes but I plan on adding a second battery later on.

Ok thanks just want to make sure I get the inlet and outlet hooked up right. I know how it use to be when they were vented from the valve covers. There is a vid on youtube on the RX can mount on a 2014 should hook up the same way. Did you get Vers 1 or Vers 2 add w 1 can. Not sure if the Vers 2 with the vented filter is the way to go or any better than Vers 1.

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Its obvious by the photos in the beginning of the thread that we will indeed have drivability issues earlier than a non DI engine will. I don't understand how with all of the hours and testing that GM did on this new engine that this issue exists. I know they redesigned the intake to help with the valve coking issue but I know question how many miles it will take to start having issues if a catch can or a cleaning procedure is not performed.

 

Why would GM risk earning the negative reputation that would come with millions of DI Engines in multiple models having issues like this early on in ownership in contrast to the Vortec motors that were know to be reliable and go 150k or 200k miles with ease? I know this motor has not been out very long but has anyone seen or heard of anyone with this new DI motor that has 70k or 80k miles on it with no issues related to this problem?

In my opinion GM has probably designed the engine to last about 100,000 miles or so before major issues start to show up. Most people will have traded out by then to a new one and will have the false perception that the engine is reliable. So the cycle will continue of GM selling vehicles and owners being happy with the product. It's the people like us that care and do our research that will see what's going on with the engines. But you can't just single out GM this is an issue with all DI engines and nearly every new car on the road has a DI engine.

 

As for your last question, you should probably research the Corvette since this motor was out for the Corvette before it was out for the trucks/suv's I believe. In that regard im somewhat comfortable that it was in production for a bit before being implemented on the Silverado/Sierra.

 

 

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