kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 You mean the i6 torque converter right? I thought about it for a while, but for the money, I would spend more for a better converter. As I plan to keep my tank for a long time and mod it for my taste. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02suburbanZ71 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yes i do like he 3/4th ton 6.0 vans i do notice the stall speed on them. When i try to brake torque it revs up to like 2100 and i hold the brakes and punch it just a little and it still goes forward. ? Am i doing this wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vettelovralexand Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Yep, the i6 converter. And you arent doing it wrong, my truck wont hold with the brakes either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thats normal as the engine torque is overcoming the friction of you brakes. As for the fuel enrichment tuning, it plays hand in hand with the torque management tuning. Remember before your tune, how the truck had a delay when you floor it from a stop or when you needed to pass someone in a hurry? Thats the fuel enrichment settings. The computer has to see full throttle for 3 seconds first before it gives your engine the proper amount of fuel it need at full throttle to give you full power. At the same time, ecm as asking the tcm to either downshift for passing gear or boost line pressure for more holding power in a gear while seeing if the tcm can perform these task within the parameters of the torque managnment. For me, I asked my tuner to get rid of the fuel delay and numb some of the torque management setting so that I could have better throttle response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02suburbanZ71 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thats normal as the engine torque is overcoming the friction of you brakes. As for the fuel enrichment tuning, it plays hand in hand with the torque management tuning. Remember before your tune, how the truck had a delay when you floor it from a stop or when you needed to pass someone in a hurry? Thats the fuel enrichment settings. The computer has to see full throttle for 3 seconds first before it gives your engine the proper amount of fuel it need at full throttle to give you full power. At the same time, ecm as asking the tcm to either downshift for passing gear or boost line pressure for more holding power in a gear while seeing if the tcm can perform these task within the parameters of the torque managnment. For me, I asked my tuner to get rid of the fuel delay and numb some of the torque management setting so that I could have better throttle response. To be honest with my bb tune i dont notice anything different off the line. But everything else seemed much better. If my engine torque is overcoming the friction of the brakes why wont it bust em loose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Really, I did. My old tbi 350 truck was much more snappy in throttle response than my current truck was when I first got it. Foot down and my old truck would move instantly, not fast, but instant throttle response. Foot down on my truck and it would sit for 3sec (you could count it) then take off life a bat out of hell. After the tune, foot down and my truck goes instantly. Its overcoming you brakes and tires friction, not overpowering them to the point that you are doing a brake stand. If you really want to do a burnout. From a stop, stomp on the pedal, as soon as the stall flashes to it's stall speed (the weight starts to shift to the rear), jab the brakes to shift the weight back to the front while still at full throttle. Tires will break loose, once they do, modulate the brake pedal so that you don't top the burnout. Have fun!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SILVER SLED Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Sorry so late to the show. A stock i6 Trailblazer converter would be a great choice, it's about a 2400-2600 stall. I had one in my Trailblazer SS. It drives very close to stock, if you let off the brake without giving any gas the TBSS would still move quite a bit. I didn't add a cooler either. I had a dashhawk and could read trans temps, and they stayed the same as the stock converter. I was afraid of going with the circle d 3200. I actually bought one, but chickened out and went with the stock i6 converter. After putting the i6 converter in, I wished I would have went with the circle d 3200 stall. Although the i6 60 footed a tenth better than the stock TBSS converter, and I could chirp the tires on my all wheel drive TBSS, it just wasn't enough difference. The circle d and a small aux trans cooler would still be a good choice, but just a tad more on the wild side. The TBSS crowd loved that converter and all that had one said it drove like stock also, until you got on it. It was a tight 3200 stall. And even with an i6 converter it will shift a little softer, so put a corvette servo to firm things back up a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 could you explain more on how it acted? I would really like a detailed review of a 3200rpm CD stall. everything I read is mostly about how fast it flashes and drives good. I really want more explanation on the stall, even with the i6 stall. so i and others can make a more informed choice Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
02suburbanZ71 Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 I did the same bought a circle D 3200 chickened out and put an oem truck converter in. Even that method of relieving weight with the brakes wont brake stand it. It simply cant be done in this DBC. I have no idea why however i havent tried it with the new trans but it spins em going straight now before it couldnt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SILVER SLED Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 The i6 converter drove like stock 99% of the time. Only when punching it off the line did I notice a little diff. When I finally decided to change the converter, I was expecting a little diff in everyday driving, but the i6 converter drove the same. That's why I prob should have went with the circle d 3200. It would have been better out of the hole and prob just a little bit of a change in drivability. Chris at circle d has written many informational pieces on a lot of aspects of how torque converters work and how they can affect drivability. Two 3600 stalls can behave very differently depending on how tight or loose the converter is. I'd encourage anyone to give circle d a call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 hum...Neutral drop it lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmborland Posted February 20, 2015 Share Posted February 20, 2015 Thank you for that. Few questions, if you don't mind. You said it drove stock right, so under normal driving from say a stop light. How high did the stall flash to? How far did the rpms drop between gear change? Also, full throttle upshift 1-2, the higher stall will allow less of an rpm drop right? Did that occur when you switched stalls? Sorry for all the questions, I read a lot on this stuff and understand the theory just hard to actually find someone to talk to about their experience. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SILVER SLED Posted February 23, 2015 Share Posted February 23, 2015 Thank you for that. Few questions, if you don't mind. You said it drove stock right, so under normal driving from say a stop light. How high did the stall flash to? How far did the rpms drop between gear change? Also, full throttle upshift 1-2, the higher stall will allow less of an rpm drop right? Did that occur when you switched stalls? Sorry for all the questions, I read a lot on this stuff and understand the theory just hard to actually find someone to talk to about their experience. Sorry to be so vague, but the diff was minimal when shifting. There was about a 500 rpm less of a drop on the 1-2 shift, because of the big gear ratio spread. Less of an rpm drop in other gears. It did get out of the whole better, about a tenth off the 60 ft. I never really flashed the stall. Best launches were at just above idle, about 1000 rpm's. The stock converter 60 footed the best launching at idle. Shift were just as firm, but I also put a Corvette survo in the same time I did the stall. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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