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AUX switch install


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On 9/12/2018 at 9:38 PM, Rafael Alonso said:

I have a 2018 Silverado 2500HD WT 

I had from the factory the T/C and cargo lights only 

I purchased the one with  T/C, Cargo, CNG, Aux1, Aux2, Aux3, Aux4.

The CNG button since is a momentary i will use for the "Ocean Liner" Horn and the Aux I will use for LED bar and Fog lights 

I have an X2 connector with 5 wires but the factory cavity on the module did not have any terminals. 

Now the new module has 5 terminals. What is the connector for?20180912_185832.thumb.jpg.9c2825b12087fcbd5ba092bb4689fb2a.jpg

20180912_185858.jpg

20180912_190704.jpg

Here’s another idea I was thinking about for the air horn.....if you use a latching relay on the momentary switch you can run your factory horn trigger through the latching relay. Run it to the “com” or common circuit. Then out of the “Nc” or normally closed circuit back along its normal path to your horn. It will still operate normally when the latching relay is inactive or not engaged/latched. Then run your air horn trigger wire out of “no” or normally open out to the air horn relay. Next run the wire from your momentary button or in this case CNG (pin 4 on X2 connector) to the trigger for the latching relay. Now when you want to use your air horn like in rush hour traffic just hit your CNG button once activating your latching relay and every time you press the horn button on your steering wheel the air horn will alert the dingy that a larger vessel is quickly approaching their stern.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I'm going to try this. Let me know if it violates any rules I did not see.

Has anyone in the Dallas, Texas area done this swap to a 17 with traction control and cargo light. And willing to help a brother out? Sometimes it's better to see it in person and talk to someone who has done it.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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Anyone know how exactly the LED indicators on the switches work.  I've had mine installed forever now but finally got around to tapping into my high beams and ran into a rather odd problem. I have it set up in a rather unconventional way so that I can control  2 ight bars individually with the first 2 AUX buttons or i can have them switch on when I use the high beams when AUX 3 is used.  Everything functions as I expected except for my 3rd aux switch which receives it power from the white wire off the drivers side headlight, while the light bars are fed directly off the battery.

 

When the AUX3 switch is off(open) the LED indicator is lit. (this is the main problem since the indicator is on when the truck is off and does not give me an indication of the switches position)

 

-IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is open the light turns off.  

 

-IF i turn on my high beams and the switch is closed the light turns on. ( and the lightbars turn on as well as the  LED indicators for AUX1+2)

 

I'm perplexed and the only thing i can come up with is that it is somehow back feeding into the high beam tap and may be fixed with a diode...

 

Tagging the other forum electrical guru's.

 

@TinkeringFox@pgamboa

 

Also gonna add the schematic I originally made up to achieve this in case I didn't describe it clearly enough.  You can ignore the dash cam override circuit that has been removed since I replaced my dash camera.  There is nothing connected to the load side of the R5 contact anymore.(but the control circuit is still in place and works as intended)  

 

8OYtDLk.png

 

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Hi there, I ran into this same issue using a 15303 fuse box and relay center with an auxiliary switch bank. I was able to solve the issue by isolating each switch signal by adding a diode between each switch output and each relay trigger. These are the diodes I used as they can plug right into a fuse panel.....https://www.waytekwire.com/item/46880/Littelfuse-02400104P-1A-MINI-Diode/

 

an inline fuse holder will work as well. You’ll need to trim a little tab from the edge first but they work great.

 

This is covered in a video I’ve been working on for some time now, just really busy with work.

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 Finally I installed the switches on my truck .

The LED does not stay ON while driving only when I turn ON the switch I'm using but one thing I noticed the LED stays on after the truck is turned OFF for about 10 minutes 

I started digging into the matter and found out 

Even when my truck a 2018 Silverado 2500HD WT should be wired for this Upfit. Is not. The IP Wire harness has the wires for the upfit but not the fuse box in the engine compartment.  I found out if I want to use the truck fuse box I will have to change to one that has all pins for the upfit and that will be $500 also the engine compartment wire harness needs replacing , I did not bother finding the the price for it. I just did my own wiring and got some relay with a 30amp fuse incorporated on the relay, now my 12v feed to the relay solenoid comes from the parking lights and grounded at the AUX 1 2 3 or 4 I installed the relays on the battery cover. Right now I'm only using AUX 1 and 2 but I have wired all 4 just in case I need to add more lights.

It does not bother me the LED on after turning the engine OFF cause the current draw is not enough to kill a good battery and also the vehicle has the 10 min safety to turn any lights the stay on to save the battery . I would have been nice to have the fuse box with the corresponding relays and fuses but this one does not have the printed circuitry to support the upfit, I guess is a way for GM to make buy stuff if you need upfits.

The switch I installed is the one that has T/C. Cargo lights. CNG. Aux1.Aux2.Aux3.Aux4. Ot cost me $30 on Ebay. 

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I upgraded my ‘15s fuse box (X50A) to the one with the pins for upfitter relays at a cost of $130. Wires do need to be added to the harness but the harness doesn’t need to be replaced. (8 wires, 4 triggers, 4 outputs)

Here are a couple pics of my new X50A (6.0 gasser) and my wife’s with the pins (‘16 Denali 6.6 LML)

 

D4487027-6005-409E-B40A-E03E9C45C4BD.jpeg

356AA00D-F64D-4CAA-B49A-822193497A6F.jpeg

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  • 1 month later...

OK.  got a few switch banks and combined switches to match my options.  Now I've got to pin out the connector to figure out what's what.  Once I know which pins cover which functions I'll be able to hook everything up correctly.  It was a real nightmare getting the switches out of the housing.  My final configuration is all momentary switched with a board from GM part number 23145202.  It originally had pedals, stability, cargo lights, park assist, lane keep, hill assist, and exhaust brake.  I don't have lane keep, hill assist or exhaust brake as options on my truck, so I replaced those with three aux switches.  I think it's going to be a bit of work to figure out the pin outs.  It looks like every version varies some, but I'm hoping that there's some commonality at least with the options I do have.  That way those items should work just like before when i plug in the new switch bank.  I just have to figure out which pins go to the other three switches now and if there are led returns.  I know the exhaust brake is going to be on the smaller connector on the back, so it's just aux 1 and 2 I need to identify.

I'm hoping the pin out looks like this

Pin function Note          
1

LED Backlight Dimming Control

 

           
2

 

LED Indicator Lights Dimming control

I hope this powers the indicator LEDs on the three aux switches too
3

 

I'm hopoin this is signal for Aux 2

           

 

4

or this is the signal for aux 2            
5

 

I hope this is the lane keeper led signal

which is now aux 1 switch      

 

6

rear park assist LED disable            

 

7

not sure            

 

8

I hope this is aux 1 signal            

 

9

park assist disable signal            

 

10

not used - upfitter            

 

11

not used - upfitter            

 

12

not used - upfitter            

 

13

not used - upfitter            

 

14

ground            

15

 

adjustable pedals rearward signal

           
16

 

adjustable pedals forward signal

           

 

17

traction control signal            

 

18

cargo lamp signal            
               
  and for the exhasut brake connector            
1 PTO - not used            

 

2

PTO - not used            
3

 

Run/crank Ignition - not used

           

4

 

Exhaust brake LED now my Aux 3

           
5

 

Exhaust brake signal now my aux 3 

           

 

6

not used            

IMG_5393.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

Hello Guy

I started this project on my 2018 2500HD Diesel and found missing wires between the switches and the relay.

does anyone have the pins or wires made-up that go between the switch and connector behind the pedals.

I don't want to pay crazy prices for shipping like I did for the switch, the $19.00 price turn into $130.00 with shipping and duty.

So looking for the four wires from switch to floor, and four from floor to fuse panel. also I might need the four output wires from the relay back to the firewall.

thanks. four wires from S48A to X61A  with the terminals 

 

Edited by Bernard Sarazin
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 2018-12-11 at 7:06 PM, Bernard Sarazin said:

Hello Guy

I started this project on my 2018 2500HD Diesel and found missing wires between the switches and the relay.

does anyone have the pins or wires made-up that go between the switch and connector behind the pedals.

I don't want to pay crazy prices for shipping like I did for the switch, the $19.00 price turn into $130.00 with shipping and duty.

So looking for the four wires from switch to floor, and four from floor to fuse panel. also I might need the four output wires from the relay back to the firewall.

thanks. four wires from S48A to X61A  with the terminals 

 

I'm also needing the terminals so I can make the wires from X61A to X50A upfitter page parts are #19301761

#19301767

 

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20181228_111501.thumb.jpg.d5f3a543f517badd8ccd8590a2dfccf1.jpg

 

On 2018-12-11 at 7:06 PM, Bernard Sarazin said:

Hello Guy

I started this project on my 2018 2500HD Diesel and found missing wires between the switches and the relay.

does anyone have the pins or wires made-up that go between the switch and connector behind the pedals.

I don't want to pay crazy prices for shipping like I did for the switch, the $19.00 price turn into $130.00 with shipping and duty.

So looking for the four wires from switch to floor, and four from floor to fuse panel. also I might need the four output wires from the relay back to the firewall.

thanks. four wires from S48A to X61A  with the terminals 

 

switch for sale 25

 

20181228_111513.jpg

Edited by Bernard Sarazin
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I just bought the upfitter switch and got my fuse panel replaced because there are no pins. And now the trouble I’m having is the aux switches still aren’t sending power to the pins into the junction box under the ebrake. All fuses and relays are in. Is there something I’m missing?

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