Bilstein 5100 adj shocks (front and rear)

mtbsam · March 20, 2015

This is because the 5100's preload the spring so much, I had the same issue with max setting on my tacoma. I am still undecided which route I want to go with this truck. I am thinking I will probably get some 4600's and use my bottom spacer. I didn't like how the 5100's over time compressed the stock coils and actually made them shorter on my tacoma, I replaced them with new coils and I gained an inch of height in the front. With the 4600's I will get the ride quality of the 5100 but without the added length for a lift.

The spring is not any more preloaded with the load of the truck on it. The suspension angles are what makes the difference.

fondupot · March 20, 2015

Called a couple shops yesterday to have my 5100's installed.

One quote fromto do my struts and an alignment. $410 for the fronts, $135 for the rears, and $162.15 for an alignment.

The other doesn't have any availability for 4-6 weeks! They do a lot of tractor trailer repairs and RV maintenance. So I guess people are gearing up for summer...

So I guess I am stuck using the first one, which is fine, other than the price, I think they are a little steep. I think I will likely do the rears myself to save the $135.

But $410 + $162.15 = $572.15

Does that sound reasonable to everyone here for the front struts and an alignment? Seems excessive to me, but I have nothing to compare to since I did get any other prices and haven't done this before.

calgator73 · March 20, 2015

Called a couple shops yesterday to have my 5100's installed.

One quote fromto do my struts and an alignment. $410 for the fronts, $135 for the rears, and $162.15 for an alignment.

The other doesn't have any availability for 4-6 weeks! They do a lot of tractor trailer repairs and RV maintenance. So I guess people are gearing up for summer...

So I guess I am stuck using the first one, which is fine, other than the price, I think they are a little steep. I think I will likely do the rears myself to save the $135.

But $410 + $162.15 = $572.15

Does that sound reasonable to everyone here for the front struts and an alignment? Seems excessive to me, but I have nothing to compare to since I did get any other prices and haven't done this before.

Heck no! I was 278.47 at the chevy dealer for all 4 installed plus alignment.

It kind of sounds like you're getting the same initial quote that I got from a local garage. He ignored me when I told him that I had my own shocks. His initial quote was that high for the installs because it included their crap brand shocks. 162.15 sounds like 4-wheel alignment territory but all you need is front wheel.

Edited March 20, 2015 by calgator73

5RWill · March 20, 2015

I agree i was 410$ at the dealer for installment of all four and alignment and i thought that was high as hell.

Also spurshot and others have explained several times there is no more "pre-load" on the spring at stock than at full height, as the only thing ever weighing on the spring was the truck to begin with.

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/153363-2014-leveling-kits/?p=1592482

I'm not sure what the "bunny hopping" referring to also. Are the shocks more firm? Yes. Are small bumps a little more stiff felt? Yes. Does the truck bounce and sway over medium-large bumps? No.

Edited March 20, 2015 by 5RWill

nadrojcote · March 20, 2015

Just do it yourself, its an easy install.

1. Jack truck up and put it on jack stands.

2. Use jack under lower control arm to jack up wheel and compress shock.

3. Unbolt middle nut on the top of the strut.

4. Lower the jack and the shock and coil will come right out.

Reverse to install.

Just like this, I would assume it would be just as easily done on a GMC as it was on my tacoma. I imagine in there somewhere you will need to disconnect the sway bar in order to allow the shock to come out, unlike the tacoma were you disconnect the lower control arm from the spindle.

Edited March 20, 2015 by projectsummit

fondupot · March 20, 2015

Heck no! I was 278.47 at the chevy dealer for all 4 installed plus alignment.

It kind of sounds like you're getting the same initial quote that I got from a local garage. He ignored me when I told him that I had my own shocks. His initial quote was that high for the installs because it included their crap brand shocks. 162.15 sounds like 4-wheel alignment territory but all you need is front wheel.

10-4. I thought it sounded high. He knows I have my own shocks. So I dont think material is included on his quote. But at first he didn't want to do it because he says they don't install other peoples parts, they like to get all their parts direct. (So they can charge you out the ear for them). But then he reconsidered....idk...I'm starting to think I may just do it myself. I've done springs on a vehicle before...its not that bad really.

Just do it yourself, its an easy install.

1. Jack truck up and put it on jack stands.

2. Use jack under lower control arm to jack up wheel and compress shock.

3. Unbolt middle nut on the top of the strut.

4. Lower the jack and the shock and coil will come right out.

Yea I've done springs before on a different vehicle. Not hard I know. I usually rent the spring compressor from Autozone for $50 (gets refunded after the fact). I find that's a little safer than the method you mentioned. lol

5RWill · March 20, 2015

Air Dam and running board removed. Looks leveled alot more than i thought it would.

Edited March 20, 2015 by 5RWill

nadrojcote · March 20, 2015

10-4. I thought it sounded high. He knows I have my own shocks. So I dont think material is included on his quote. But at first he didn't want to do it because he says they don't install other peoples parts, they like to get all their parts direct. (So they can charge you out the ear for them). But then he reconsidered....idk...I'm starting to think I may just do it myself. I've done springs on a vehicle before...its not that bad really.

Yea I've done springs before on a different vehicle. Not hard I know. I usually rent the spring compressor from Autozone for $50 (gets refunded after the fact). I find that's a little safer than the method you mentioned. lol

See I'm the opposite, I find this way is safer than messing with a spring compressor.

fondupot · March 20, 2015

Air Dam and running board removed. Looks leveled alot more than i thought it would.

Looks good. What setting did you use? How does it ride?

Edited March 20, 2015 by fondupot

fondupot · March 20, 2015

See I'm the opposite, I find this way is safer than messing with a spring compressor.

to each his own. I've never felt unsafe using a spring compressor in my experience. Gonna stick with what works. I appreciate the video though.

5RWill · March 20, 2015

Looks good. What setting did you use? How does it ride?

Max Ride height. IMHO great. Like i said you feel the more small bumps, but the larger ones are night and day difference. The truck is much more controlled and stable.

mtbsam · March 20, 2015

Air Dam and running board removed. Looks leveled alot more than i thought it would.

Looks awesome (as all of the trucks in this thread do), but I'm just curious how much aerodynamic effect that air dam has. I don't mind the look with them on and now that it's level, it doesn't drag on curbs etc, so I'll probably keep mine for now.

Edited March 20, 2015 by mtbsam

nadrojcote · March 20, 2015

to each his own. I've never felt unsafe using a spring compressor in my experience. Gonna stick with what works. I appreciate the video though.

Exactimundo, I don't really find either to be dangerous, but I'll be sure to post if I lose some fingers trying! Hell I might even make a how to video to save some people on here the money.

Edited March 20, 2015 by projectsummit

5RWill · March 20, 2015

If i still average 18-19 going back to starkville today it's a meh issue. One of the mechanics told me to watch it in the summer as the air dam helps draw up air into the engine to keep it cool, but meh. The truck moving does that. My old 2004 sierra had a radiator full of grain and wouldn't over heat while moving. You had to sit there in 95F and it would over heat.

I love the way it looks without the air dam and running boards. Bigger tires are going to make it sit even higher. Little brother's friend has a 2.5" Level and 295/55/20 Trail Grapplers and compared to older model trucks you'd swear it was lifted. SOB sits so high. Can't wait to get my 285/70/17 RTs and new rims. Though i'm going to put all that on hold till i'm done with the DAT.

Edited March 20, 2015 by 5RWill

mtbsam · March 20, 2015

I gained about 3/4" from the tires that I had installed. They aren't the max that would fit by any means, but no rubbing or trimming and they are 275/70/18 (33.2"). I notice a slight difference with the heavier tires but once it's rolling it's almost where I was before according to the DIC, and that's without any compensation for larger tires. I think I figured out I'm going about 1 mph faster per 20 mph on the dash. If my cruise says 80, I'm doing roughly 84.