Why dont my gauge, climate control and mirror map lights work?

[bossier62guy]

Assuming it's not a wire issue it's either the headlamp switch or the BCM. I'm going to try to find some schematics.

 

What about any other background lighting besides the instrument cluster?

[Brandon87]

Assuming it's not a wire issue it's either the headlamp switch or the BCM. I'm going to try to find some schematics.

 

What about any other background lighting besides the instrument cluster?

The climate control lighting and mirrior map lights are out as will. All the other lights work normaly

[bossier62guy]

The climate control lighting and mirrior map lights are out as will. All the other lights work normaly

Just to be clear....you have other background lighting that dims with the switch on the headlight switch?

[Brandon87]

Just to be clear....you have other background lighting that dims with the switch on the headlight switch?

 

No all of the dimmable lights are out. so that includs gauge cluster back lighting and climate control lighting, I have an after market radio that works (its not connected to the dimmer). My airbag key switch also lights up.

[bossier62guy]

Great....let me see if I can find any schematics for your truck but right now the headlamp switch is suspect.

[Brandon87]

Great....let me see if I can find any schematics for your truck but right now the headlamp switch is suspect.

ok is it still suspect if the dimmer switch only turns dome light on? its like the dimmer part of the switch has went out besides when you roll the switch all the way up and it gives power to the dome light

[bossier62guy]

That's why I want to see the schematics first but yea it's still suspect...don't go buying any parts just yet.

[bossier62guy]

Let's try this....using either a meter or a test lamp back probe the connector of the headlamp switch. If you need to use a paper clip, piece of scrap wire, etc. You want to back probe pin K which is a dark green wire on the end of the connector. Obviously you'll want to operate the dimmer control and check for either DC voltage (meter) or that your test light illuminates. If you get nothing here check for 12V on pins B & D (both orange wires) and let me know how it goes.

 

BTW....back probing involves going into the connector from behind while it's still connected to the part.

 

And FYI....the dimming signal and courtesy lamp signal are two different signals originating from the headlamp control. The courtesy lamp signal is on Pin G, dark blue/white wire.

[bossier62guy]

I've got some college football to watch so I may be a while getting back to any future post.

[Brandon87]

Let's try this....using either a meter or a test lamp back probe the connector of the headlamp switch. If you need to use a paper clip, piece of scrap wire, etc. You want to back probe pin K which is a dark green wire on the end of the connector. Obviously you'll want to operate the dimmer control and check for either DC voltage (meter) or that your test light illuminates. If you get nothing here check for 12V on pins B & D (both orange wires) and let me know how it goes.

 

Ok i will try this this evening or tomorrow morning and give you an update on my multimeter readings. My girlfriend got me side tracked last night so i didnt have much time to do anything. Thanks for the help ill be back shortly with results.

 

BTW....back probing involves going into the connector from behind while it's still connected to the part.

 

And FYI....the dimming signal and courtesy lamp signal are two different signals originating from the headlamp control. The courtesy lamp signal is on Pin G, dark blue/white wire.

[Brandon87]

Ok i will try this this evening or tomorrow morning and give you an update on my multimeter readings. My girlfriend got me side tracked last night so i didnt have much time to do anything. Thanks for the help ill be back shortly with results.

[Brandon87]

Let's try this....using either a meter or a test lamp back probe the connector of the headlamp switch. If you need to use a paper clip, piece of scrap wire, etc. You want to back probe pin K which is a dark green wire on the end of the connector. Obviously you'll want to operate the dimmer control and check for either DC voltage (meter) or that your test light illuminates. If you get nothing here check for 12V on pins B & D (both orange wires) and let me know how it goes.

 

BTW....back probing involves going into the connector from behind while it's still connected to the part.

 

And FYI....the dimming signal and courtesy lamp signal are two different signals originating from the headlamp control. The courtesy lamp signal is on Pin G, dark blue/white wire.

 

UPDATE...

with the truck off and the headlight switch on here is the readings I got

Green wire K 0.01

Ornage wire D 12.21

Ornage B 11.88

 

I am learning to use a multimeter and I think I did this right. let me know what you think.

[bossier62guy]

I think you're doing good....the reading on the dark green wire never changed when you moved the dimmer switch from dim to bright? The headlight switch obviously has to be on to get a reading period there.

 

Silly question....did you check the ILLUM fuse in the IP fuse block?

[Brandon87]

I think you're doing good....the reading on the dark green wire never changed when you moved the dimmer switch from dim to bright? The headlight switch obviously has to be on to get a reading period there.

 

Silly question....did you check the ILLUM fuse in the IP fuse block?

the reading on the dark green would read 0.00 when I turned the dimmer up. I did check the Illum fuse and it looked like it was good. First thing tomorrow morning I will go ahead and check it again to be sure. If I use a multimeter to check the fuse what will i read if it is good? would it read -1?

[bossier62guy]

With the headlight switch on (either park or headlights) you should get a DC voltage value between 0 and 12v (or what is coming in on pin B) when moving the dimmer control from minimum to maximum. As far as checking the fuse goes I would do a continuity check on it but since you're just learning to use the meter you might just want to swap it with another 10a fuse for now. Now if you don't see the values while back probing pin K you probably need to pick up another headlight switch.

 

If the meter is giving you problems just get a normal test lamp and back probe it with that....you should be able to watch the lamp go from dim to bright.