2014/15+ HD PowerFold OEM Tow Mirrors (The Ones We've Been Waiting

skav · February 7, 2015

Has anyone successfully swapped these new mirrors onto a 2015 (early build) 2500HD LT with DL8 (power adjust, heated, NO powerfold or signal) mirrors? Or in general anyone who made the swap from DL8 mirrors, can you please PM me with details of what exactly was required to make the swap. I know I will need for sure the Mirrors (duh), powerfold mirror switch, but am not sure after that, do I need an additional door harness? Passenger mirror switch? Programming from dealer? Thanks!

I just had mine installed. We replaced the pass switch to get them to fold. The mirror blinkers work, but not the puddle lights or ambers.

superchargedss · February 7, 2015

Freshly painted.. [emoji41]

enmity02 · February 9, 2015

So I ended up doing what I think some may fear and over tightened a bolt and it ended up snapping..... yea let that sinking feeling set in.... Does anyone know if the bolts are press fit or similar and can be replaced or am I just screwed and have to replace the entire mirror over a stupid bolt.
I really wish I could find what the exact torque spec that GM uses to attach these mirrors so their isn't a guessing game, as first round I had them hand tight and there was a minor vibration, now I just made the problem worse.

Mike1220 · February 9, 2015

So I ended up doing what I think some may fear and over tightened a bolt and it ended up snapping..... yea let that sinking feeling set in.... Does anyone know if the bolts are press fit or similar and can be replaced or am I just screwed and have to replace the entire mirror over a stupid bolt.

I really wish I could find what the exact torque spec that GM uses to attach these mirrors so their isn't a guessing game, as first round I had them hand tight and there was a minor vibration, now I just made the problem worse.

How much did you tighten that thing to snap the bolt?!

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enmity02 · February 9, 2015

Didn't think it was that tight, I was just using a 10mm deep socket on a 1/2" driver. After it snapped I put up a torque bar on another one just to see how tight those are and it was reading about 10ft lbs. It was getting tighter then suddenly got looser and then a loud pop and it snapped off.

Open to suggestions at this point

MThompsonjr115 · February 9, 2015

1/2" driver might have been a bit much.

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austingta · February 10, 2015

Didn't think it was that tight, I was just using a 10mm deep socket on a 1/2" driver. After it snapped I put up a torque bar on another one just to see how tight those are and it was reading about 10ft lbs. It was getting tighter then suddenly got looser and then a loud pop and it snapped off.

Open to suggestions at this point

1/2" driver might have been a bit much.

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You can't really mean a 1/2 inch ratchet, can you?

thewhitestallion · February 10, 2015

if yall are that worried that a nut is going to come loose on the mirror just use some loctite and put that nut on until it feels "tight" with a 1/4 rachet and 10mm socket and then no more than a 1/4 turn after that and let the loctite do it's thing. honestly though I would not use loctite b/c those bolts do not see much vibration and is not a moving part. the nuts do not need to be sinched down that hard. do not overcomplicate the mod. not trying to offend anyone just giving some insight on mistakes that I have made in the past to where it may be of use to someone who is not 100% sure on the subject.

PirateDiesel · February 10, 2015

Some of the guys over on the diesel forums use rubber washers behind those bolts to help with the vibration along with the loctite. A stick on lead weight on the backside of the mirror glass also helps.

enmity02 · February 10, 2015

Yup, I will be a joke, I screwed up and now I am paying the very expensive price for it. Yes I did use a 1/2" as I couldn't find my 3/8" and with my 1/4" it wasn't a matter of it feeling tight as it already was tight, it was that I was notice a vibration on the highway and I was trying to get rid of it. I see there is markings on the bolts and nuts from the factory so one would conclude there was a torque spec that they should be. However I haven't been able to track that down, and as a result over did it and now will be wasting another $400+ because of a 30 second mistake. Stupid too as I had just finished doing the wiring mod and was please with just how clean it came out and that it was all working. So I pull it and throw it up on ebay see if anyone is interested in the parts, I already checked my old mirrors and I don't have the tools capable of removing the stud and pressing in a new one.

So yea, guess I learned the hard and very expensive way.

thewhitestallion · February 11, 2015

Yup, I will be a joke, I screwed up and now I am paying the very expensive price for it. Yes I did use a 1/2" as I couldn't find my 3/8" and with my 1/4" it wasn't a matter of it feeling tight as it already was tight, it was that I was notice a vibration on the highway and I was trying to get rid of it. I see there is markings on the bolts and nuts from the factory so one would conclude there was a torque spec that they should be. However I haven't been able to track that down, and as a result over did it and now will be wasting another $400+ because of a 30 second mistake. Stupid too as I had just finished doing the wiring mod and was please with just how clean it came out and that it was all working. So I pull it and throw it up on ebay see if anyone is interested in the parts, I already checked my old mirrors and I don't have the tools capable of removing the stud and pressing in a new one.

So yea, guess I learned the hard and very expensive way.

Your not a joke, we all make mistakes. Every single of one of us on this forum that have turned wrenches have made "that" stupid mistake that cost extra money. No matter how much we dislike it, it's true. Some lessons are more expensive then others but it is what it is, just chalk it up to your hobby and just learn from your mistake.

Zebrafive · February 11, 2015

Yup, I will be a joke, I screwed up and now I am paying the very expensive price for it. Yes I did use a 1/2" as I couldn't find my 3/8" and with my 1/4" it wasn't a matter of it feeling tight as it already was tight, it was that I was notice a vibration on the highway and I was trying to get rid of it. I see there is markings on the bolts and nuts from the factory so one would conclude there was a torque spec that they should be. However I haven't been able to track that down, and as a result over did it and now will be wasting another $400+ because of a 30 second mistake. Stupid too as I had just finished doing the wiring mod and was please with just how clean it came out and that it was all working. So I pull it and throw it up on ebay see if anyone is interested in the parts, I already checked my old mirrors and I don't have the tools capable of removing the stud and pressing in a new one.

So yea, guess I learned the hard and very expensive way.

Since you're talking a $400+ mirror, I would take it to a body shop and see if they have the tool/know how to fix it. This may not be new to them, a broken mirror stud. It may be a simple repair for them. Outer cover may come off. Press out broken stud. Press in a new stud. Worse out come is they say no can not be fixed.

enmity02 · February 11, 2015

I stopped at my local body shop and they said they could press it out and press in a new one if I can source the bolt, which so far has turned up nothing, GM's answer was of course to replace it, they didn't even have a part number in their system for the bolt. Also from looking at it the plastic housing around the base is heat melted into the frame. so that would have to be drilled and epoxied back into place. So I will probably just order another one, then see if I can get this one fixed and throw it on ebay, maybe recoup some of the cost. That way I am able to still use my truck while I try to fix it.

superchargedss · February 11, 2015

Which bolt is it? Shocked that out of 4 bolts, one makes this mirror shake so bad. You'd think the other three would keep it fairly snug.

Zebrafive · February 12, 2015

I stopped at my local body shop and they said they could press it out and press in a new one if I can source the bolt, which so far has turned up nothing, GM's answer was of course to replace it, they didn't even have a part number in their system for the bolt. Also from looking at it the plastic housing around the base is heat melted into the frame. so that would have to be drilled and epoxied back into place. So I will probably just order another one, then see if I can get this one fixed and throw it on ebay, maybe recoup some of the cost. That way I am able to still use my truck while I try to fix it.

Hit up a salvage yard. There must be thousands of broken mirrors of little value you could get for cheap to salvage a stud from.