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2014/15+ HD PowerFold OEM Tow Mirrors (The Ones We've Been Waiting


superchargedss

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Anyone with these mirrors tried to black them out or wrap them to the body color of their truck? I would like to see how that would look.

@denalihd55 on Instagram did.

 

Mine are at the shop now getting smoothed and painted. But I left the chrome untouched. I think the chrome looks good with the denali trim.

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633 posts condensed into excerpts for installation only copied and pasted here <or, how I spent the last 5 hours!>

 

removed were most of the side chatter - no delivery / paint / wowee / mine is bigger than yours ... questions or speculative comments

Thank you to all contributors; my install will commence when the temps rise above freezing for two consecutive days! Please excuse my formatting below; I have old fingers.

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Alright, for those who don't want to have it reflash from the dealer and wants to know the color wires to have it your way.. LOL

The solid orange wire is for the front amber light in the slot "#1"on the plug. You can move and connect to slot "13" Red/blue stripe to have it on with your blinker or you can wire your own as running light.

The solid Yellow wire is for the 2 little white led in slot "#2" on the plug .You can run your own wire and connect to the reverse light or you can move it to slot "#1" to have it on as your puddle lights.

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I'm using the amber lights as turn signals, that was easy, tied the orange wire to the red/blue wire and done! (thanks Ben it worked perfect!)

 

Now for my difference... The 2 reverse lights (the yellow wire) I ran a wire to the fuse box and connected to the reverse light fuse. Now what this did was give me reverse light and ALSO puddle lights (when it got dark)... I didn't realize the reverse lights did not come on when you open your doors during the day light. BUT at night they all come on....Problem solved!

 

Now if you want to have the amber lights work as marker lights just run another wire to your fuse box for each side and tap into the correct fuse and you will have marker lights. (I tried doing both (marker and turn) at the same time, but it just fast flashed and said the bulb was out)

 

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For blinker - The solid orange wire on the mirror side is for the front amber light in the slot "#1"on the mirror plug. You can move and connect to slot "13" to match the Red/blue stripe in vehicle harness.

 

For the LED’s - The solid Yellow wire on the Mirror side can be move from slot “2” to slot "1" to have it on as your puddle lights.

 

Do you know if we can use the "Mirror Tilt" to power the LED's and if so do you know what pin # it should be moved to on the mirror side plug.

 

Thanks for the feed back.

Correct,

 

If you want to have it on with the back up lights. You have to run your own wires from the back up light and connect it to the Solid yellow wire.

There are 6 wires on the Power motor that I don't have the tool to test to see which one is the tilt function. These 6 wires contain "Up/Down Left/Right and memory.

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got a set of these mirrors through my GM Distributor and also ordered the Power Folding Mirror switch. My 2015 Denali HD was originally equipped with the old style camper mirrors RPO Code DPN....

1. By simply installing the Mirrors and Power-folding Switch Assembly I instantly gained the Power-folding feature.

2. I also replaced the complete door harness with one from a truck that originally had RPO DQS, it indeed has 3 additional wires from what I can tell, however upon installing, I gained no other features (backup, marker lamps)

My gut is either this will indeed require programming or the dash harness (which is what this door harness connected to, is indeed different as well on the 2015.5 models)

From the factory they are indeed Marker Lamps on the Front Side and not turn signals. I'm not to worried about getting these to work, as there is illumination wires going into the door as all of the door switches light up at night.

My big concern is getting the LED's to come on as designed. The one I played with at the dealer the other day, did not have the Reverse Lights come on when in reverse, but instead came on when I pressed the cargo light button? With that being said are these truly for backing up, or just another puddle lamp? I've read this both ways

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 08:56 AM

Just had my salesman validate the LED lights on the new mirrors.

 

Here is what he said:

 

In reverse – no mirror lights

Bed lights on – 2 white LED bulbs on mirrors are on

Headlights on – Just the amber section on front of mirror is illuminated

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Posted 26 September 2014 - 06:48 PM

Spoke with my parts guy again today. Just as the door harnesses are different so is the Dash Harness.

It appears there is a 15.5 year harness for the doors and also the dash...I'm wondering if this new harness has the provisions for the mirror accessories?

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Posted 28 September 2014 - 04:11 PM

As far as the splices, I just cut the orange wire on the mirror plug about 1 1/2" up from the block. The short part of wire coming out of the block I spliced to the orange wire in slot two. The longer part of the orange wire (that runs to the mirror), I spliced with the blue/red wire in slot 13. Pretty easy and straight forward. The pictures I took didnt really show much, but I can have the door panel off in like 5 minutes if I need to get some.

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can take some pictures later on this evening when I get home from work......i just followed the instructions earlier in this thread for installing AMP steps. There are 6 bolts that have to be removed (7mm socket)......two on the bottom that are exposed, one in the front of the wood panel that pops off, one behind the door handle, and two vertically in the pocket at the top (there are covers over those two that have to be popped off). Then just grab the panel at the front and pull and you will feel it pop all the way around the bottom. Once you have it pulled out all the way around, you can work the top trim off (the piece that surrounds the window and covers where the mirrors bolt up) off. Once that is off, just grab the whole panel and slide it up out of the window trim and its off. I just left mine hanging while I did everything. The passenger side I didnt have to pull it up and off the window trim, I could work around it. One tip when reintsalling.....when putting the window trim in, start at the mirror end and work your way back around the window. It can be a pain in the ass to get it back in. The last part you should put back in is the back corner where it meets the door panel.

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Posted 09 October 2014 - 12:04 PM

Supercharged SS

If I missed it in an early post I am sorry but what is the price for the non Power fold Mirrors?

P/N 23241615 P/N 23241618

 

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What is the color of clearance light wire and where did you tap into it?

Pictures?

Its a white wire with a pink? or red? stripe. I tapped into it under the headliner. I had to pull off the inner windshield pillar trim, sun visor then was able to pull the headliner down enough to access the lamp and run the wire.

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Posted 15 October 2014 - 11:40 AM

Bluestreak06, on 28 Sept 2014 - 4:11 PM, said:

As far as the splices, I just cut the orange wire on the mirror plug about 1 1/2" up from the block. The short part of wire coming out of the block I spliced to the orange wire in slot two. The longer part of the orange wire (that runs to the mirror), I spliced with the blue/red wire in slot 13. Pretty easy and straight forward. The pictures I took didn't really show much, but I can have the door panel off in like 5 minutes if I need to get some.

I installed mine yesterday and both mirrors are wired exactly as Bluestreak06 (see above) (also, the orange wire in slot 2 is actually yellow) Anyway....here is my electrical glitch: Everything works perfect except: When you lock the truck with the key fob, then unlock the doors with the fob, the mirror glass on both sides moves into a default position. It won't act up if you lock the doors from the button on the door panel, or unlock the truck with the key. It only screws up when you use the key fob. Anyone have an idea on what could possibly be going on? This happens every time you lock and unlock the doors with the fob.

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mcnwil, on 15 Oct 2014 - 08:51 AM, said:

That's great. I will stop by radio shack on the way home and pick one up. I wonder if it will work connected to the cargo fuse? If not I will run to the reverse light fuse

 

Jon A, on 14 Oct 2014 - 8:50 PM, said:

OK, I figured it out and it's an easy fix! I thought it was acting like a voltage issue so I measured my system voltage with the ignition off vs. the engine running--off it was 12.6, running it was 14.7! I then confirmed when hooking the lights direct to the battery with the engine running they were still having a problem so it wasn't purely a BCM issue; I figured the lights themselves may have some sort of built in protection against high voltage.

 

So I put a 1 ohm resister in the line feeding the lights. Presto! They work perfectly with the engine off or running. I nearly wore out my gearshift testing and both lights worked perfectly 100%.

 

So that's the fix, tapping into that fuse is fine, just use a resistor. I had the resistor laying around, I think I got it years ago from radio shack when I was building speakers. It's labeled 1 ohm, 10 Watts, and has a white ceramic rectangular heat sink.

 

I took voltage measurements before placing the resistor in the circuit and saw exactly what you saw and I was on the cargo fuse. The voltage jumps to 14.7 as soon as the truck is started and interestingly is very slow to get back to 12.6 after engine shutdown. Installed the resistor and all works fine. The reverse LED's not only work with the engine on or off, they also work in daylight regardless of the auto headlamps. Love these reverse LED's, going to be really helpful backing my boat in the garage at night. The part number for the resistors at radio shack is 271-0131.

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 08:17 AM

Do I need to run a wire from each mirror to the fuse to get the white led lights to work? I thought one guy side you just need to run a wire to the passenger mirror and they would both work or might have missed read that posting. I wish it was easy as the marker lights were just connecting the Orange wire to the yellow door harness wire on the driver door and you were done you have marker lights to both mirror. All it was a 6" wire and to wire taps didn't have pull no wires.
Do I need to run a wire from each mirror to the fuse to get the white led lights to work? I thought one guy side you just need to run a wire to the passenger mirror and they would both work or might have missed read that posting. I wish it was easy as the marker lights were just connecting the Orange wire to the yellow door harness wire on the driver door and you were done you have marker lights to both mirror. All it was a 6" wire and two wire taps didn't have pull no wires for it

 

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Posted 18 October 2014 - 07:52 PM

rstone, on 18 Oct 2014 - 7:39 PM, said:

I have my amber lights hook up few marker lights. You don't need to pull a wire for the marker lights. If tie the orange wire and the yellow wire on main door harness that give you power for the marker lights. That is the power supply for the clearnance lights. All you need is 6 inch piece of wire and two wire taps. Only thing I had to run wire for was the white led for the cargo light switch.

Wish I would have known that before running a wire to my roof markers..timing is everything . Did both ambers work off just the tap on the drivers side?

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 06:02 PM

I have everything hooked up and working with the exception of the power mirror switch I'm still waiting for. I connected the LEDs by inserting one end of the 1 ohm resister into the same wire used for the cargo lamp diode mod. The LEDS now work in reverse, with the cargo lamp and come on when I unlock with the FOB. I just slid the end of the resister into the connector right next to the diode, very easy

Quick tip for re-installing the door panel..Remove the upper clips and weatherstrip from the door panel. Hang the clips in the slots on the door and insert the weatherstrip into the clips and grove on the door. Then just line up the slots on the door panel and pop back on..WAYYY easier than trying to line up clips and weatherstrip while installed on the door panel.

 

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Posted 19 October 2014 - 06:20 PM

Its plugged into the brown/white stripe wire along with the diode in the pink harness.

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as per an earlier post on page 23

 

"I have my amber lights hook up few marker lights. You don't need to pull a wire for the marker lights. If tie the orange wire and the yellow wire on main door harness that give you power for the marker lights. That is the power supply for the clearnance lights. All you need is 6 inch piece of wire and two wire taps. Only thing I had to run wire for was the white led for the cargo light switch. "

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Posted 24 October 2014 - 05:51 AM

Yes but if you read my post from above it will indeed hook them up but they aren't right. For example....they don't activate with the Key fob at night when all of your other lights turn on when you are walking up to the truck and then when you shut the truck off they stay on after all the other lights have shut off and then slowly fade away. Run the wire into the clearance light circuit in the cab. It will actually look better that way

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 09:23 PM

Well I just read the entire duramax thread. It explains the issue this way. If you have a truck with power fold option but have memory seat functions its the problem. The driver switch for the powerfold does not send a signal to both mirrors, only the driver. This is where the passenger switch comes in. They explain a signal is sent to the passenger window switch which sends it to the bcm and back to the mirror. They are replacing the passenger switch with part #23129535 and it appears to work at least on a 15 2500. I suspect it will work on a 14 Silverado as the part shows it will fit and lists it for a 2014 SLT/Denali trim. This may explain why yours worked as I suspect you have that part number on your trim. Does the other guy have memory seats?

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 12:59 PM

hey guys just doing the install on my 2015 gmc sierra 3500 denali hd.

plug and play both work for power fold on both sides, I have memory seat on the drivers side.

There is some mention of some of this stuff in previous posts but this may help as a summary

I tapped the wires on the inside of the door boot to save running wires thru the door jam.
Will post pics, this should save a LOT of time.

DRIVERS SIDE DOOR HARNESS:
The wire on the inside of the truck, pin 3 - grey with a green trace is the amber marker light for both mirrors.
pin 5, yellow wire with white stripe, is the LED reverse/cargo light

PASSENGER SIDE DOOR HARNESS:
does NOT contain a wire for the LED, you will have to wire into the harness or run your own from the mirror harness..

This should make a MUCH cleaner install

I used mirror part #s
23241465 and 23241467
mirror switch 23488411
did not need the mirror switch trim plate.

For the REVERSE LEDs - copied the post earlier and used the resistor hooked into PIN 26 on the Brown 26 pin plug under the dash.

***for the MARKER/ALBER LEDs - I'm trying to source a power supply under the dash. I want to have the as marker lights. Does anyone know which wire under the dash has Parking/Clearance light supply?

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 12:06 PM

sugarjohnson, on 30 Oct 2014 - 10:15 AM, said:

CrankyApex make sure you update us about that switch...I'm eager to know if this solves our problem.

Ok..I received the switch and it worked, both mirrors now powerfold. So if you have an LTZ with memory seats and had the old style camper mirrors, you will also need to replace the passenger side window switch with part # 23129535.

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Posted 30 October 2014 - 07:20 PM

Latest update from a 2014 1500 LTZ CC SB 6.2L NHT owner. My truck came with regular black camper mirrors, power adjust, heat, turn signal and NO power fold. Truck also has memory driver seats.

 

1. New Tow Mirrors mount and plug in to existing harness fine.

2. You will need new Driver power mirror switch unless you already had folding small mirrors stock. Part # 23154705

3. You do NOT need replacement trim bezel for new driver mirror switch.

4. You WILL need passenger window switch due to memory seat. Fits in existing Passenger Trim Bezel. Part # 23129535

5. Once all parts are installed you will get: power fold, heat, remote adjust, turn signals, and ambers will flash when opening and locking truck. Ambers will NOT light with running lights and Cargo will NOT work with cargo switch.

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 07:23 PM

Thats it..I included the pic showing just the cargo lamp/reverse mod. The resistor for the mirror LED's should be plugged in along with the diode in the brown/white wire slot in the pink plug.

Attached Thumbnails

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Posted 02 November 2014 - 10:00 AM

sugarjohnson, on 01 Nov 2014 - 8:20 PM, said:

Thanks to all who are actively posting wiring and helping on this mod! I was just out messing with my wiring testing the Amber run lamps. I intend to use them as designed for clearance marker lights. Any thoughts on what someone else posted earlier on tapping the ambers into Pin 1 Yellow wire on the main driver door harness.

According to the schematics its labeled LED Backlight Dimming Control. I used a jumper and indeed it will power both sides with just drivers side hook up. Like stated earlier it will dim if you dim interior. I rarely dim my dash so this is no bother to me. What I don't know is if this wire will go dead once the auto light control senses light? Pin 2 on drivers door harness is also live and could work and is labeled LED Ambient Lighting Control 1.

If this will indeed work it would avoid pulling a wire into the cab. Any thoughts appreciated.....






Hello,

There is a member on another forum who tapped into the cab light circuit near the passenger fuse box area. The cab light wire is a grey violet wire. He then spliced a wire into the grey / violet wire and ran it over the a harness under the drivers side and tapped into that harness. See photo below.

He stated that this will make the new mirror amber lights work properly with the rest of the clearence lights.

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There is a member on another forum who tapped into the cab light circuit near the passenger fuse box area. The cab light wire is a grey violet wire. He then spliced a wire into the grey / violet wire and ran it over the a harness under the drivers side and tapped into that harness. See photo below.
He stated that this will make the new mirror amber lights work properly with the rest of the clearence lights.

Here is the description of what he did to make the cab lights work

". I just installed the new power fold mirrors on my LTZ that had the non folding camper mirror. It is very easy if your truck has memory seat function. The only missing feature is reverse tilt and remote operation which requires reprograming. The clearance lights need to be rewired if you want them to work properly. On the passenger side fuse panel there is a violet/gray wire which is the roof clearance light circuit. Tie into this wire and run the new wire to the drivers side. Under the dash is the body control module. On the plug closest to the door is a grey/ green wire between a yellow wire and a yellow/ white wire. Cut that wire and connect the wire that you cut( not the plug side) to the wire from the pass fuse panel. You will now have the clearance lights operating correctly.
For the LED cargo lights I did not want to run any new wires so I added a micro toggle switch to each door and mounted it in an out of sight position. I found a red wire with power at all times in each door and connected the switch to that. I ran another wire to position two in the power mirror plug from the switch. The drivers side has an existing wire in that position so just cut it and wire to the plug side. You will have to add a terminal on the passenger side in position 2. You could tie into the mirror harmed but I did not want do that. The few times that I will use the cargo lights made this my preferred choice. The whole process was very simple as the trucks with memory seats have most of the wiring. You also have to replace the power mirror switch.
"

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You might have already got it back on but thought I'd add this tip. Remove the upper weatherstrip and clips from the top side of the door panel. Put the strip on the door and hang the clips in the slots on the door, then just pop back into the holes on the door panel. I initially tried to slide everything back on with the strip remaining on the door panel, almost impossible to do..

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Got it. Ground for marker lights is a black/white stripe wire. Wired it up to the head light power supply line under the dash. LED light need no ground, just hook them up to the grey cargo lamp supply line under the dash as well.

I was able to get the features I really wanted. Power adjust, power fold, marker lights that come on auto with headlights, and the LED spots switch along with the bed LEDS. Maybe on another rainy day I'll hunt down the reverse tilt... good luck to next installs.

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Posted 23 November 2014 - 11:09 AM

wberg, on 18 Oct 2014 - 7:05 PM, said:

I will try resistor , but is the left one works fine and the right one doesnt I would think its a wiring issue.

FYI white leds are BRIGHT

Wanted to add this link again incase someone needed it. Made removing panels easy
http://www.amp-research.com/?dl_id=249

 

mcnwil, on 01 Oct 2014 - 3:09 PM, said:

This is where I found the schematics.

http://www.gmupfitter.com/

These two links are essential when taking this mod on. What you're looking for is on page 147. Cargo lamp is circuit 18 in the harness. The harness is above the brake pedal. There are a series of color coded harness in a row. If memory serves, it was the second harness from the driver door. Look for a grey wire next to an empty slot followed by another grey wire. The grey wire that is centered in the harness is the one you're looking for.

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Posted 03 December 2014 - 09:14 PM

I did have to tap into wire harness drivers side for ambers to work. I used the dimmer voltage wire for easy option. This makes both sides work. Downside is they will dim if you dim dash inside but that is fine by me. My Ltz had black camper with power heat and turn so those functions were plug and play. The white led I did have to wire individual through doors tied them together and then tapped in cargo light wire on bcm.

 

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Posted 05 December 2014 - 01:37 PM

sugarjohnson, on 03 Dec 2014 - 9:14 PM, said:

I did have to tap into wire harness drivers side for ambers to work. I used the dimmer voltage wire for easy option. This makes both sides work. Downside is they will dim if you dim dash inside but that is fine by me. My Ltz had black camper with power heat and turn so those functions were plug and play. The white led I did have to wire individual through doors tied them together and then tapped in cargo light wire on bcm.

I'm assuming the ambers only turn on at night same as the dash by setting it up this way? That's how i'd want mine to work anyway.

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Got it. Ground for marker lights is a black/white stripe wire. Wired it up to the head light power supply line under the dash. LED light need no ground, just hook them up to the grey cargo lamp supply line under the dash as well.

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A couple of posts in this topic infer that a flash with the new RPO to the BCM may avoid hacking the wiring. Is that theory or has someone actually done that?

Nope. No reflash is avaliable at this time.

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A couple of posts in this topic infer that a flash with the new RPO to the BCM may avoid hacking the wiring. Is that theory or has someone actually done that?

I'm fairly certain that the newer 2015.5 trucks have a different dash harness. So regardless no programming that I've heard done.

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Nope. No reflash is avaliable at this time.

 

 

I'm fairly certain that the newer 2015.5 trucks have a different dash harness. So regardless no programming that I've heard done.

 

 

Thanks for the replies! Just to add to this, I didn't see anything for this when I did update flashes via SM, so I called Techline and the harness is indeed different -- no programming, even with a VCI will add full functionality to the mirrors.

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Hey so i have been going through this thread trying to find a good how to link? Is there one? Or do you just have to dig to find answers to your questions?

How to what?

 

The whole thread is full of very useful info. Just gotta sift through and find the specific things that you're looking for. Not every truck has the same scenario. Gotta piece it together. [emoji106]

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Hey guys, I have read this entire thread, however I am still a bit lost...

 

The dealership installed my mirrors today. I drive a 2014 gmc sierra SLT Premium All terrain (Has literally every feature available except Navigation and Cooled seats/Lane departure) which came stock with the heated, folding auto dimming mirrors.

 

 

Currently my new mirrors do not fold when I press the button to fold them, I hear a click but nothing happens.. Does this mean I need the new drivers side switch? or do I need both the drivers and passenger switch?

 

Also, if I am not mistaken...

 

To get the clearance lights to come on all the time, I could potentially splice the Orange wire, and then run it into my fuse panel and tap into a fuse that comes on whenever the truck is turned on (Maybe then run it to a switch so that if needed I can shut them off?) that way it would constantly put power to the clearance lights? I plan on adding cab clearance lights in the very near future and would like all clearance lights to run with my DRL. Im worried about splicing into my DRL as I have the SLT Headlights with the LED's.

 

Any additional advice would be greatly appreciated :)

 

Thanks!

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